THE "STAR" RACING MODEL YACHT.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVI, Issue 243, 14 October 1933, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE "STAR" RACING MODEL YACHT.

There are many bookfe oil model yachts available, and they contain quite a number of excellent designs. However, as you know I always like to find something a little different for column. I am giving you this week the design of a J033-34 model yacht, embodying, as it does, the latest and most successful features that 1 have been able to obtain.

The idea of publishing these designs originally arose from a number of requests 1 received for something which would lie a good looker and yet capable of winning races. So in a discussion with Mr. N. Bectson, a keen Auckland model yacht enthusiast, I persuaded him to let me publish the plans of his most successful craft. Here it is, and 1 hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of your racer this summer. Details of Construction. First of all I. will explain the diagrams given so that there can be no misunderstanding. The main plan and elevation has the scale clearly defined, and with a compass you can check over and take oil' all the measurements you desire. It would be well, in fact practically necessary. to draw this diagram out full size, so that checking up can be done with accuracy. Xow look at the .squared

diagram. This shows the various hull sections, reading 1, 4. and 5. On a pioco of drawing paper, make a series of halt' squares, then, following the curvature of the various lines shown, draw in the sections. A good plan is to prick the places where the curved lines cross the squares and then join up all the prickings wilh a firm pencil line. I>e sure and make all curves fair and free from humps. Now make templates from cardhoard, using your squared plan as a guide. Fig, 3 shows a half template. You can make it like this, using it for .both sides of a station, or make tile full template, like the one shown in Fig. 0. When the templates are completed you sire ready to start Hie real "wood-spoiling." Obtain a block of suitable size, This sounds simple, but you want to be (piite sure of the suitability of the block you get for the hull. I would, suggest the very best kind (o be "silver kauri." If |you can get your t-awmilling friend to

| pick a piece of .silver kauri out for you, it will amply repay the trouble, for it is (reasonably light, good in the grain, and '(carves like, a piece of cheese. You can use other timber, of course, and next in preference I would suggest white pine lor totara. In using totara it is necessary J to oil the wood freely, as you get to the ; inside carving, or a split may develop and spoil hours of work and waste a good piece of wood.

Jt is best to get the block just a little over sizo. Make it *?(>A x 10A x 4 1-S. In this way you may be able to stop a surIfai'e crack from running in. Fig. 1 shows (ho width as ten inches; it should read It) 1 ,4. as this i<s the actual width of the centre section. • " Now to proceed. Draw a centre line right round the rectangular block, being careful to get it dead accurate. 1 stress this point, for on it rests tho whole chance of success. Now lie the full size deck plan on the block, prick through it, and join up the prick marks with clean heavy penc ; l lines. Fig. 2 shows

the template for the sheer plan, this i» tlie shape of the boat looking at it from the side. Using this template aw a guide, draw the .sheer lines on each side. Now mark off the section places accurately, squaring the lines across the top, down each side and across the bottom. These are the places where each template in turn is used in order to get the lines of the hull.

Well tli is seems a lot of fiddling around first, but 1 assure you it is all vitally necessary in order to make a job of it. You are now ready to really attack the job in earnest. If you are lucky you can get the use of a band saw and have the main shape cut out. Otherwise you will use a hand saw, taking off wedgeshaped pieces until the rough outside shape is formed. Xovv spokesliave down carefully to tin? lines on both top and bottom. In a similar fashion cut away the bottom sheer line, or shall we say the side elevation shape. Fig. •> shows how you prick in the sheer line of the deck.' It is well to note here that it is not usual to cut away this fore and aft deck curve until the hollowing is complete, so you have a long way to go before this. Now comes the realiy interesting part. Using the centre template spokesliave out the curve at that place, using the template freely. Work it so that the shape is «o nearly correct that sandpaper will make it perfect to finish. Using the templates in turn, get the lines of the hull shaped out. If

you leave it just a simile oil tlie big ei.dc you will be able to correct any bumps or hollows at the lust finishing touch. Next week I will go into the next steps to take. Full details of hollowing, making the keel, masts and other gear will be given later on.

An announcement of interest to all aeroplane enthusiasts in general, but to those in Auckland in particular, is the notification of an all-day outing at Three Kings on Labour Day. Tn order to make this flight meeting of interest to all, there are three main competitions arranged.

No. 1. For competitors who are not members of affiliated, clubs. This is palled the "Invitation Competition," ami we invite all who are not in clubs to como along and join in. You will have this competition to yourselves, and will not be up against the "crack flyers," so everybody has a chance. The next is an "open tourney," open to all club members and outsiders as well, and the third event is the big one for the members of the affiliated clubs. It is the "Auckland Championship." For full details send me a stamped addressed envelope. Boys outside Auckland can compete by "proxy," that is, they can send along a 'plane, accompanied by instruct Hons, and it will be ilown by a skilful flyer here. The entrance fee for each event is 3d. Write me for entrance forms, rules, etc.