LEMON CULTURE.

Auckland Star, Volume LXIV, Issue 117, 20 May 1933, Page 6 (Supplement)

LEMON CULTURE.

WELL DRAINED SOIL NEEDED. The lemon is a fruit tliat is in demand in almost every household, and there arc few gardens, where climate and soil are not suitable, in which space could not bo found for ono or two of these trees. When planted in suitable soil and reasonable attention given to their cultivation, there are few trees that yield better crops than well-grown lemon trees. There are few fruiting plants, however, that need more careful attention in transplanting than the citrus fruits, and certainly few that succumb more quickly ■when badly planted and neglected. Failures with citrus trees in many instances. result from their being planted in soils or positions that are quite unFiiited to them, such as soils of a stiff clay nature, with little or no provision for draining away surplus moisture. 3Vlost citrus fruits are naturally surfacerooting plants and will not survive for any length of time in nndrained land or •where the roots are in contact with stagnant moisture. This is most important, so that if the soil is not naturally Idrained, the grower should see that good drainage is provided for before planting.

The soil best suited for lemons, or, in fact, most citrus fruits, is a deep, ricli loam or soils of a gritty nature. In soils of this cliaractcr there is generally a free outlet for surplus moisture, so that there is no need for artificial draining. The holes in which tlie plants are to he placed should be well enriched with well decomposed manure or decayed vegetable matter, which should bo well incorporated with the soil, so that the roots can derive the greatest benefit from its ■use. In soils of this nature the plants quickly become established and make rapid growth.

In planting, another important point is not to place the plants too deeply in the soil. Deep planting is often the cause of failure. The safest plan in planting is to plant upon a slight mound, so that after the planting is completed the plants will be slightly raised above the surrounding surface. This not only assists to prevent an excess of moistura at the roots, but adds greater warmth to the soil. When the trees are planted in this way, staking is necessary to prevent their being swayed about by tho wind, eare being taken to place a piece of cloth, sacking or other material around the stem, where tho tio is placed, to prevent any chafing of the bark. Once trees aro established, the subsequent treatment will consist in keeping down weeds by light hoeing and mulching the surface in spring with manure or other suitable material. The soil around the plants must not bo dug with the spade or fork; the hoe alone should be used to work the soil. Surface roots should be encouraged as much as possible, as it is when in this condition that more prolific crops are produced. It naturally follows, however, that such roots require some protection during - dry, summer -weather, and should bo mulched with somo material that will assist to check evaporation and retain moisture at the roots. It frequently happens that after planting, little or no growth is made till the autumn rains begin. This, however, is characteristic of the lemon, for although new roots are being freely made and tho plants beQome well established, rapid growth rarely takes placo nntil rain has thoroughly moistened the soil.

VENTILATING FRAMES. The benefit of cold frfcmcs is often aullified by- improper ventilation. Having no means of artificial lieating;, the ise of a cold frame can be harmful to the plants if the ventilator is not properly attended to. Whenever the weather is mild, there should be some ventilation on, and the back of the frame a the best place to prop up the "light.

Tor the purpose of holding the "light" ,t the required height, a block of wood hould be" cut to have three steps. A iece of 9in by 9in board will make a lock. When, owing to wind, it is unrise to give ventilation at the back,_ it an bo given lialf-way down the side f the "light." Draughts should _ be voided as much as possible, and a light hading should be provided to prevent he too quick evaporation of moisture. '

LATE red currants.

Tlicso are used for a variety of pur(oses, and they are even more useful in irivate establishments than the black -aricties, as by careful cultivation the ruit may be bad until quite late n the season. In favourable seasons, tnd in districts where birds are not too mmerous, red currants can. be kept on he trees till late autumn. Trees that xe intended to carry their fruit until ate in the season should be planted .gainst a south wall, and have their hoots trained horizontally: by so doing lie fruit hangs in a great measure clear f the wood, thus allowing a freer emulation of air amongst it. If the trees re planted 4ft apart they will soon over a wall eight or ten feet high, as wo tiers of shoots may be taken up annually. The best varieties for plantng against walls are those which proluce long, loose bunches.

VIBURNUMS. There is considerable variety amongst lie viburnums. Some are valued for heir flowers, others for their berries, .nd the leaves in somo cases take on leautiful tints in autumn. Viburnum nfgrans produces, its pinky "white ragrant flowers in August, and is foluwed in October by the closely-allied r. Carlessi with fragrant white flowers, lost people are familiar with the large rhite balls of flowers of the snowball reo (V. Opulus sterilis) in November, .he ordinary variety (V. Opulus) is not o showy in bloom, but is covered with ed berries in March. The Japanese rariety (V. tomentosum plicatum) is a Lwarf plant, and produces its masses of white flowers very freely. These are all leciduoua shrubs, and may be planted trow, ; * "" .

OVER-REACHING HIMSELF. Unscrupulous exhibitors occasionally resort to strange devices to get ahead of other competitors. The lato Dean Hole told of one such case. "Wo had just commenced our survey as judges at one of the shows, when an exhibitor reappeared, hot and out of breath, and begged pardon, but he had left a knife among his roses. He had a magnificent rose in his coat, and 'from information received' I thought it my duty to watch his movements without appearing to do so. He left the tent with a much smaller flower in his button-hole, and I went immediately to his box. There was the illustrious stranger, resplendent but with a fatal beauty. The cunning one had hoist himself with his own petard, for he had forgotten another bloom of the same rose, already in his 24, and I immediately wrote 'disqualified for duplicates' upon his card. Keen must have been the shaft which he had himself feathered from that borrowed plume, but keener far to feel (for it is a fact patent to all), that if he had not made the addition he must have won the premier prize."

DECORATIVE MASSING. For bedding there are few things to equal the antirrhinum for decorative massing. A great deal has been done for this plant of late years, and it is worth while to root out every plant from the garden whose colour is not approved. There is no need to grow one with magenta-crimson blossom, for instance, for we have exquisite tones of rose-coloured selfs, a colour that will tone with other colours far better than the old shades ever did. Yet these old shades are always cropping up. This is the only way of ensuring a continuance of identical colouring. Plants raised from seed are far from being a certainty in this respect. With the deep rich rose colour too, cuttings are invariably taken and the resultant plants are of good, even size. They will flower for at least three seasons. I look upon a good yellow antirrhinum as a wonderfully effective plant —also a beautiful one; the tone of yellow is so delicate and refined. A good strain of antirrhinum shows, even in the foliage of the plant.