A BATH IN PERSIA.

Auckland Star, Volume LXIII, Issue 185, 6 August 1932, Page 7 (Supplement)

A BATH IN PERSIA.

PERFUMES AND MUSIC. TEPID DAY IN SHOP UNDER GROUND. PARADISE FOR THE NATIVES. (By ZEINAL BEK SARAY.) Like most countries in Europe and the Near East, Persia hasn't as yet attained the luxury of the private bath tub. English people can hardly appreciate, I believe, tho comfort that is theirs when they can roll out of bed in the morning and take their bath at home. In the Caucasus the public baths are built on the Russian and Turkish plan familiar in the Uirited States. Not so in nearby Persia, where all baths are so built that at least three-quarters of the structure is underground, and so that all one sees from the street are low walls, a dome or two and the chimney. The door, generally monumental in size, is sculptured with beautiful arabesques and painted in bright colours. As the human figure may not bo represented by Mohammedan artists, it is seldom to be seen, but tempting versets call attention to the tenets of cleanliness contained in tho Koran. As one enters, several stone steps lead down into a sort of antechamber, which is also painted in bright colours, perceptible in spite of the semi-obscurity that reigns here. This room seems to bo without issue, but as one's eyes becomo accustomed to the half-light, a narrow hall is perceived in the rear. This hall leads to another brilliantly-sculptured, door, which opens on to two or three steps. Another descent brings one into a vast octagon hall placed immediately under the dome seen from the outside. This hall is tho dressing room and is dimly lighted from the street by tiny stained glass windows. All this is to assure a semi-privacy. Sweet Smelling Preliminaries. In tho midst of this room is a little fountain that sends up a tiny jet of cooling water. An overhanging galkry is replete with sweet smelling plants .that pervade the palace with penetrating odours. In a series of small alcoves are comfortable stools covered with rich tapestry and above each of them is a bird cage from which comes the trill of a canary or a nightingale. Having divested one's self of garments that becomo cumbersome in the heavy, sweetscented air of this earthly paradise, one passes on to the bath proper after having paid the cashier, who is usually the owner of the establishment. The dressing room is divided into two classes, one side for the rich and the other for the common people. Tho latter pay a minimum rate, while the former pay according to their largess and generosity. Needless to say, they receive quicker and better service. When a rich client arrives, the proprietor of the baths comes to the door to greet him with effusion, and calls to all his staff to do likewise. Much ado is mado over the new arrival, so that everyone present may know he is a person of importance. Tho proprietor takes the client from one alcove to another, vaimting the advantages of each, and the staff precipitates itself to remove tho client's slippers. The proprietor then returns to his counter and caslibox to bid the new client welcome once more and to inquire after his health in all the flowery phrases peculiar to the Orient. Slowly, tho general conversation that had ceased with tho arrival of so distinguished a person is started again by the proprietor, who is at last willing to take cognisance of his other customers.

Filling a Perfect Day. After the newcomer has divested himself of his garments, an operation carried out in a leisurely manner as he talks with others in the room, he puts on a red silk, or cotton, apron, and enters a room full of steam. A faint light is just perceptible here from the top of the dome. Lined up along the wall are marble benches covered with linen so that they may not be too hot to sit upon. Having had a thorough steaming, with every pore of the skin open, the bather passes on to the pool, which is situated opposite the steam room. The water of the pool is lukewarm. After having washed, the bather has a rub down and a massage. He then takes a rest. Persian, like Turkish, baths are hostels where one can pass an, entire day, eat, sleep and bathe. Here one also has a barber and a chiropodist. In the rest room, one of the attendants is detailed to look after the immediate needs of each client. After a massage and a shave, the client rests, while his attendant sings to him softly, recites a poem, tells a tale, or merely gives him the news of the day. The latter continues to amuse his client until the latter tires and dozes off. Persians, in fact, have an extraordinary faculty for dropping off to sleep at will. Enveloped in their furs and flowing garments, they can go to sleep on horseback during long and monotonous trips across the Iranian plateau. It is during the rest hour in the Persian baths that tongues wag, and political happenings are discussed.-