Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LXIII, Issue 78, 2 April 1932, Page 6 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY OF NEW Z3AI/AND. ITS AIMS AND OBJECTS. (Contributed by FRANK PENN, N.D.H. (X.Z.), Hon. Sec. Auckland District Council of proposed Society.) The movement to form a National Rose Society in New Zealand is one of considerable importance, and is attracting attention from horticulturists, and rose lovers in particular, in all parts of the Dominion. The formation of such a society lias been mooted many times, but took concrete form in July, 192!), when Mr. H. Morse, the eminent English authority of roses, gave an address at a well-attended and enthusiastic: meeting at Auckland (under the auspices of the New Zealand Institute of Horticulture). It was then unanimously decided to take steps to form a National Rose Society in New Zealand.

Rose lovers throughout the country express themselves delighted with the proposed society, which must assuredly prove a great incentive to rose growing, and be invaluable to the everincreasing number of those who enthuse over "the queen of flowers." The number of new varieties of roses is increasing at such a rate that it is impossible for amateurs —and even tradesmen —to keep pace. There is urgent need for a culling out of many varieties, and the retention of only those ■that are proved worthy and suited to our local conditions. In this direction the proposed society might do excellent work.

These are just a few of the ways in which a National Eose Society would justify its existence, and there can be 110 doubt that, once well established, the society would find many useful avenues of work, and become a power for good among: rose lovers. With regard to Auckland taking the lead in this movement, this was done simply to expedite matters. Someone had to take the initiative, and the Auckland horticulturists have done the necessary preliminary spade work. It is proposed that the new society co-operate with the New Zealand Institute of Horticulture and all horticultural societies of the Dominion. As an instance, after its first meeting, the local council of the proposed rose society arranged for a composite stand of roses at the Auckland Horticultural Society's recent show —a display that attracted considerable attention.

The movement is one that should commend itself to all rose lovers.

BABIANAS.

Babianas originate from the Cape of Good Hope, are very elegant, compact growing bulbous plants, producing beautiful spikes of flowers in various shades of blue, crimson, purple, yellow and violet. Bulbs are very cheap, and although they are not hardy are -well adapted for pot culture and should be got in early. Five-inch pots will take five bulbs and seven-inch pots seven bulbs. A very light, sandy compost, containing a little manure, should be used, whilst perfect drainage is essential. The soil should be nicely moist at potting time and the tops of the bulbs just covered. The pots should be placed in a cold frame and covered with cocoa fibre refuse to a thickncss of several inches, to encourage the production of a

strong rooting system before the top growth commences. When plenty of roots have been emitted by the bulbs the pots should be removed from the frame and be stood near the glass in the greenhouse. Too much water should not be given at first, but as growth develops, the quantity should he increased; whilst applications of weak liquid manure after the spikes have made , their appearance will be found most beneficial. After the bulbs have flowered, the pots should be stood out of doors in a sheltered position, and as the foliage dies down water should be gradually withheld. When dried off store the bulbs away until the following season. A warm sheltered position is essential for bulbs planted out of doors.

MICHAEGLMAS DAISIES.

These beautiful autumnal flowers must be kept neatly and securely tied up to their supports, or they will quickly be ruined by wind and rain. Some of the modern varieties are , especially lovely, for not only can they be had in a variety of colours, but the habit of the plants varies so much as to l'ender them suitable for all positions in the border. They vary in height from two feet to over six feet, the dwarf varieties being literally covered with blossom right down to the ground. Both groups render the garden bright and attractive until- late in the autumn, but to sec Michaelmas Daisies at their best an entire border should be devoted to them. GLOXINIA. The plants are now going to rest. This is shown by the leaves turning yellow and then dying off. As soon as the foliage changes colour less water should be given, and when the plants are quite dormant it may be discontinued. The tubers are left in their pots, or if economy of space is a consideration, they can be turned out and laid thickly in boxes of dry sand.

TO MAKE CANTERBURY BELLS BLOOM FREELY.

In order to obtain a four-bloom from one Canterbury bell plant during the same season, nip off the flower as soon as it is over, and well water the plant. Very quickly a second bloom will be seen, which, when dead, should be nipped off in the same way as the first. In this way the plant may bear as many as four or five blooms during the same sei>t;on.

W.F. (Mangaweka) asks the following questions:—(l) Is it right to use nitrate o£ soda as a manure for peas? (2) Can dahlia roots be left in the open ground? (3) ie lifted, what is best way to store them? (-1) The best blue, scarlet, orange-scarlet, clear pink, bright orange, lavender sweet peas? — (1) Xitrate of soda is of no value to peas, if not directly harmful (2) l"cs; should heavy frosts occur cover with straw, litter or sacks. (3) After lifting let the stools stand on the soil until dry, then store on a shelf or tench in a dry shed. So long as kept dry and frost-free, they are easPy stored. (4) Blue Wings or Boy Blue; scarlet, Captain Blood or Huntsman; orange-scarlet, Flamingo; clear pink, Pinkie or Itoyal Pink; bright orange. Royal Sovereign or Tangerine Improved ; lavender, Lowerscourt or Austin Prederlcls Improved. HOMIB (Ponsonby) asks re garlip:—(l) Constitution of soil. (2) When to plant. (3) When to harvest.—(l) Garlic will do on almost any soil, but prefers a sandy, rich, well-drained soli, and unless care is taken it can become a bad weed on such soils. ' (2) Plant about mid-winter. (3) Harvest about midsummer. Treatment given is similar to shallots, and is grown from the "cloves," or divided bulbs.

W.C., Herne Bay, writes: Allow me to thank you for information re sowing of wattle seed. I followed your advice to the letter, and the results exceeded my expectations, in fact I have a splendid wattle hedge. Can I further trespass on your kindness for advice re sowing acmena seeds, best time to sow and how. Can the seeds be sown in a permanent position and the plants thinned ont?— I am glad to know that you were successful in following my advice. Re acmena seeds, these, after being cleaned, should be sown at once. If yon are collecting the berries the best way Is to mix dry sand with the pulp and seeds until the whole is sufficiently dry to separate easily, then sow seeds and waste together. The seeds can be sown where the hedge is to go, afterwards thinning out the seedlings so as to stand far enough apart. Collected and sown as soon as ripe without drying they germinate quickly and well.

W.G., Grafton, asks: Re Grevillea robusta — Does it flower, when, for how long, and at What age? Can it be pruned at any time of the year?—Grevillea robusta is a native of Australia, evergreen. It flowers about midsummer, but it is no unusual thing for it to flower at other times of the year. It can be raised from seed and commences to flower when about two years old. It stands hard pruning, which can be done at any time of the year, but the best time is immediately after flowering.

E.R. (Christchurch) writes: I enclose strawberry leaves, stated to be affected with thrips, a disease statei< also to affect raspberry leaves. Can you advise as to correctness and treatment?— The trouble is strawberry leaf blight, caused by a fungus. Spraying with Bordeaux or lim-e-sulphur will keep it at bay. GLADIOLI, Papakura, asks: When to sow, and treatment required, of gladioli seed? Having saved the pods shake out the seeds, taking away any pieces of broken stem or pods. Gladioli seed is of a fair size, and there is no difficulty in cleaning it sufficiently for your own sowing. As to when to sow most enthusiasts have their own idea, and are successful, but for a general jruide the best time to sow is now (March). The seed is now ripe unless it is from very late blooms, and the soil is in good condition. Prepare a bed in an open sunny position, well drained, average soil, but no need to add manure. Make drills about an inch deep, and sow thinly, covering the seed with soil. The seeds will germinate quickly and the rows must be kept clear of weeds and the soil Btirred between the rows. The seedlings can be kept growing and some of the strongest may bloom this coming summer. When they die down the little bulbs can be taken up and treated as flowering bulbs. Replant the following July and the majority will bloom the second year. Seedling bulbs can be left in the ground the first year, but by lifting and planting they can be sized and planted allowing them room to develop. , TOMATOES, Tauranga, writes : I have been informed that there is a good demand for early tomatoes, at a good price, by the visitors to a holiday resort. Can you advise as to the prospects of such an undertaking? Would a glasshouse be required or could they be produced by Christmas by some simpler form o£ shelter? The situation is well north of Auckland. What about raising flowers for Auckland dining rooms and hotels?— I cannot give you any advice on the prospects unless I am acquainted with the particular district. No doubt there would bo a demand during the holiday season, but would it be sufficient to provide a living for the off season. Holidays are only a short period, and if it is wet then there would be little extra demand. If growing tomatoes you would ■have to consider a wider market for disposing of the crop. A glasshouse would be necessary to have a crop ready by Christmas. Some seasons it might be possible to have ripe fruit outside then, but for commercial purposes a glasshouse is necessary. It need not be an expensive or elaborate glasshouse, sufficient to provide shelter and to hasten the plants sufficiently so that the crop is ready when required. Re growing flowers for dining rooms and hotels I think this is alreadv supplied to saturation point, and I wouid not advise you to take this on.

i! THE WEEK'S WORK.

THE FLOWER GARDEN. Heavy rains will have spoilt a lot of blooms. These should be picked off. . Plants that have gone down owing to the storms should be tied, or, if too badly damaged, cut thom off. Chrysanthemums will need attention to disbudding and tying. Rust has made its appearance and the plants should be dusted with flowers of sulphur. Thin out Chrysanthemum buds. Even when grown for decorative purposes thinning is necessary. Bulb planting can be continued, but no time must be lost if good results are expected. Plant out layers of Border Carnations. A sowing of hardy annuals can be made. Plant out annuals and other spring-flowering plants. Plant Anemones and Ranunculus. Trim hedges of Eleagnus, Privets and Escallonia. Newly-made lawns should be prepared for sowing. The seed can be sown at once. Roses are giving promise of exceptionally fine autumn blooms. Dust with sulphur for mildew. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Prepare the Strawberry bed by working over the soil as often as possible. Ground for late crops should be worked well so as to break up any lumps and to well incorporate the manure. Raised beds give extra drainage and are relatively warmer than the surrounding ground. Both are an advantage with winter crops. Weed and thin seedling crops. Stir the soil alongside the plants. Plant out Cabbage and Cauliflower plants. Clean the Rhubarb bed and give heavy manuring. Use stable or cow manure supplemented with fowl manure or sulphate of ammonia. Dig Kiimaras as they mature. Give Cabbage and Cauliflowers a little sulphate of ammonia. Stir the soil around the plants. Collect and buria or bury all bad Cabbage and other leaves. Clear off all rubbish and weeds and dig over empty plots. Prepare ground for sowing Onion seed.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

WORK IN THE VINERY.

Vines growing in greenhouses which contain various other plants often suffer from lack of moisture at the roots and in the air. This is often the cause of poor grapes being produced. The borders, outside or inside, should he examined frequently now. When watering, give a thorough soaking to make sure that all the roots are reached. Liquid manure should follow such waterings when the berries are swelling, but should cease when colouring^commences. Keep a moist atmosphere inside by using the syringe freely, but avoid wetting the grapes, especially with hard water. Lack of watering and damping down causes red spider to put in an appearance in hot weather. When the grapes are stoning, as indicated by a temporary cessation in swelling, a weak solution of lime water often proves of assistance, especially if it is known that the borders are deficient in lime. Close the house sufficiently early to keep the temperature comfortable through the night, damping the floors, walls and stagings at the same time. When the grapes begin to colour, give more ventilation to assist them in this process, and o allow ample light see that all growths are kept pinched at the first leaf. Look over the bunches again when the second swelling commences after stoning is completed, in order to remove any berries which seem likely to become overcrowded. Where mealy bug is present, spare no efforts to keep it from the bunches. Go over the vines daily, if possible, and touch each insect or white woolly patch with a brush dipped in methylated spirits. It is not possible at this season to do much else to contend with this pest.

Bulbous irises are attractive and uncommon and may bo grown well in pots. The bulbs should be potted now in 6in pots. Place them rather closely together in good loamy compost, rendered porous by a little coarse sand. After potting place the pots in a frame, plunging them in aslies or leaf soil. They

may thus remain until tlicy begin to develop their flowers in spring, when they must be transferred to greenhouse or airy window. All are exceedingly decorative when judiciously arranged with other plants or grouped by themselves. Iris reticulata, though older than some, is very beautiful and possesses a delightful perfume.

GROWING EARLY POTATOES.

The following is a useful method of growing early potatoes: Procure tubers of an early potato such as Duke of York, lay them out to sprout, and put them up into 4-inch pots at the end of June. Grow on in a greenhouse or frame till the end of July, then harden off and plant out in a warm border. Protect them from frost with some sacking or other suitable material, and you should have potatoes ready for the table by the middle of September.

The fuchsia is essentially an amateur's plant and well adapted for growing in various ways. The plants are easily managed, free flowering and excellent for covering pillars and back walls of greenhouses, or for training up the roof, growing in hanging baskets and as pyramidal specimens or as standards, whilst many varieties are suitable for

planting out of doors. Compost composed of 3 parts light fibrous loam, 1 part old hotbed manure, a little leaf-soil and a good sprinkling of coarse sand will be found excellent for fuchsias, but overpotting should be avoided.

The present is a favourable time to take fuchsia, cuttings, which at this season of the year should consist of half-ripened wood prepared in the usual way and inserted round the sides of 5 or 6-inch pots of light sandy soil. When well rooted the cuttings should bo potted singly into small pots. Stronggrowing, vigorous varieties of fuchsias are the best for training as standards, and all side shoots should be pinched off and the plant kept to a single stem until

the desired height is reached, when the point or top must be pinched off. This will cause side growths to be emitted, and the three nearest the top should be retained. These side growths must be pinched after the third pair of leaves, and other shoots which result from this pinching also be stopped after the third pair of leaves. The stopping process must bo persisted in until a good head has been formed on the plant.

SPIRAEA.

This is a suitable time to lift, divide, and plant astible or spiraea roots. The plants thrive best in moist soil, preferably in a position with some shade during the middle of the day. The flower spikes vary in height from 1 to 2 feet. A selection of sorts should include compacta W. 12. Gladstone, astiboides, Queen Alexandra, peach blossom and Palmatun. TO MEND A LEAKY CAN. The presence of a small hole spoils an otherwise useful vessel for watering plants. This may be easily mended by putting a piece of shoemaker's wax over the hole, the heat of the fingers being sufficient to soften it. It will stick on enamel ware on which one cannot use solder, and it will last for years.

REMEDY FOR MILDEW ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

A remedy for mildew on chrysanthemums is sulphide of potassium dissolved in water at the rate of half an ounce to the gallon, applied as a spray. It is most important to wet the undersides of the leaves, but do not let the mixture reach the flowers to any extent, as it marks the petals. Beware also of it touching white lead paint, as it turns this black.