TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Auckland Star, Volume LXII, Issue 138, 13 June 1931, Page 6 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Correspondents will greatly oblige by observing the following rules in sending . questions for publication ill these columns: — I—Letters should be in not later than Tuesday to be answered the same week —addressed to Garden Editor, "Shir" Office, Auckland. 2—Write on one side of the paper and make all communications as concise as possible. 3—Flowers, etc., sent for naming, must be sent separately, and, if possible, packed in a tin or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in transit and the contents damaged. 4—The full name and address of the sender must always be sent, but a noni de plume or initial may be given for publication.

D.M.M. (Kaitaia) sends a specimen for identification?—lt is Arbutus unedo, commonly known as the strawberry tree. E.G.K. (HenGerson) writes: I have a plot of strawberries; they are flowering freely. Would you suggest picking off the flowers?—lt would be best to pick off the flowers, for, although some would set, the berries would be of little value, as they would suffer from slugs, etc. Picking off the hloonis now would give a stronger plant later on.

POPPIB (New Lynn) sends some grubs, which have destroyed Iceland poppies. Do they breed in cow manure, and howcan I get rid of them? (2) I have a Lisbon lemon tree, and the bark is peeling off, just above The surface. What should I do to save the tree? —They are the-grass grub, or larvae of the bronze beetle. Get some powdered naphthalene, sprinkle a little between the, rows of plants and work it into the soil with the hoe or the digging fork. (2) If it is co'lar rot, as you think, there is practically no sure cure. It is aggravated •by poorly drained soils, too deep planting and using layers instead of budded or grafted plants, the lemon being more susceptible to the disease than the orange. Paint round the stem, over the wound, with Stockholm tar, or a coat of white paint would do.

COPELAND asks: (1) I have some hydrangeas that have grown tall. Would it hurt to cut them back to the stumps, and would they blossom this season? (2) I have some rhubarb which give poor thin sticks. What is best to do with it? (3) My garden is infested with large green insects like grasshoppers. Is there any way of getting rid of them ?— (1) You can cut back the hydrangea to the stump, but it will flower late if it flowers at all. You could cut back one half the growths and shorten the remainder to the lowest plump bud, and when it has finished flowering you could cut back the others. In this way you would not lose the flowers entirely. (2) The rhubarb Is probably only seedling plants, and the best way would be to throw them out and buy some strong crowns. (3) I expect you refer to an insect known as the "praying mantis" from its habit of standing and gently nodding its head. It is beneficial, and should not be destroyed.

SWAN (Whakatane) sends a plant for identification.—lt is a variety of Asclepia at one time recommended as a source of fibre. GREEN LAWNS (Burwood) sends a packet of some kind of powder and wishes to know what plant it is obtained from? — Cannot say; it looks like I'omaderris elliptica leaves dried and powdered. S.W. (Rotorua) asks: What spray do you recommend for the fly eating the leaves of the „Cheinanthus Allionii?—Try a nicotine spray. Black leaf 40 is very good. Use according to directions on container. REX (Bayswater) writes: Please advise what spraying mixtures are likely to corrode a galvanised iron fence, and if painting the iron would protect it.—Any of the mixtures containing copper, such as Bordeaux, ,would corrode it. Tarring would protect the iron. S. (Howick) (1) sends an apple for identification. (2) How far apart should vines be planted? What is a suitable manure, and will they require supporting with wire fence, etc.?—(l) Five Crown Pippin. (2) Nine feet apart. Bonedust or superphosphate and fish manure, one part of each, with a little sulphate of potash, allowing about an ounce of the latter to each vine. They can be grown without support, but the losses from birds, etc., is much greater, and the returns are much lower than when supported by posts and wire. The increase of crop and the easd with which the crop can be attended to covers the cost of wire and supports.

R.A. (Remuera) asks: (1) Apple trees are getting high; would it hurt to top them below say three years' growth? What is the best mixture of fertilisers, and when applied. Is it good to throw lime upon the trees when they are damp? (2) What fertiliser wduld you keep for a garden, and what is good for potatoes? (3) Are tea leaves good or harmful when thrown on borders? —(1) To cut back as .hard as you suggest would not hurt Uip trees, but it would probably cut away all fruit buds, and it. would be a year .or so before they fruited again. You could cut back all last season's growth to within one bud of its base; you could then cut back a portion, say, half, the brandies, as far as you suggest. Next season you coul<l cut back the others. By thus spreading the work over two or three years you could reduce, the height without losing all the crop and without any undue check to the trees. Once trees have been allowed to run wild, it is a difficult matter to bring them within bounds. If you attend to the trees each season and keep them within limits, it will give you good results. Half fish manure and half superphosphate, allowing about half a pound to each medium-sized tree, more or less according to the size. A mixture of fish manure (4 parts), superphosphate (4 parts), sulphate of potash (1 part), allowing from four ounces to a pound per tree, according to size. Applv it in the spring, when growth commences. The potash can he supplied separately during the winter, allowing about one ounce to each tree. Scattering lime on the tre.es, when damp is all right. It is an old-fashioned method, but has some good points; one thing, it prevents moss and litchen growing on the stems. (2) Fish manure for the general run of vegetables. Superphosphate for beans' and peas. A mixture of both, with potash (as advised above for fruit trees) for potatoes. (3) There is no harm in tea leaves; they are not in sufficient quantities to make much difference.

TOMATO (Oratia) writes: (1) Could you advise me what seed to use for an early outdoor crop of tomatoes? I have been advised to grow the Australian red, but do not know of it. Is the Australian dwarf red or large red? (2) When is the best month to transplant Loganberries.' They are a year old, with runners six to eigh't feet" long. They were grown from cuttings. iSho.uld. the. plants be cut back low down?—(1) It is probably the Australian or. Adelaide dwarf red that is referred to. It is diflicult to sav what is the best to sow for an early outdoor crop, as the varieties that can be termed early are rather poor croppers. (2) Transplant Loganberries now. The runners should be cut back quite half their length.

L.L. (Heme Bay) writes: I am sending a stick of celery for examination. I grew some in the same plot last year, and had great success with it.-The trouble is rust and although the crop was good last year, no doubt the rust was there, and this vear you have used the same Sound Vith the result that your crop fJT&lurf It is always best to grow in fresh soil each year. lou can uo nothing to save the present crop Pull Bordeaux"or^me 0 sulphur solution tor spraying with. BEGINNER (Remueia) writes: (1) I would like to know how to get the best results om chrysanthemums. I have cut down SHlaniandthesu^rs^no,^ S n a?e° eight 8 flet'high, 5 healthy and have been pruned regularly. One of the frees has developed brown watt-like formations on the stems.—(l) Keep the S i!ree St weeds so as to give them every chance to make strong sturdy cuttings Those three inches high can be en ff as cuttings. Cut them just Slow the surface and plant in firm sandy soil There is no need to trim them You can use pots or boxes, or plant the cuttings in the open ground. Before taking the cuttings it would be well to spraj the old stools with bordeaux or lime sulphur. There may not be much rust, but it is best to prevent it getting a start. (2) It is difficult to give the reason of nonfruiting. It may be due to variety or it may be position or soil. Let the trees go without pruning for _ a season. Sonve varieties fruit at the tips | of the previous season's growth, and if pruned too hard do not fruit. Irish Peach and Cliffs Seedling are both of this 1 type. The warKik. swellings are no defect.