THE DEPTH TO PLANT BULBS.

Auckland Star, Volume LXII, Issue 56, 7 March 1931, Page 6 (Supplement)

THE DEPTH TO PLANT BULBS.

The depth of planting bulbs varies, and it is not advisable to plant all of them the same depth, far depth of planting affects the flowering of bulbs it is hard to say, but often if a bulb is buried a foot deep it will come through the ground and. flower well. A great deal no doubt depends upon the texture of the soil and the vigour of the bulb, but as a general rule the lighter the soil the deeper the bulbs should be planted. The beet and safest general rule is to plant a bulb as deep as it is hi£h; that

is, if two bulbs were placed on top of one another, and the tip of the uppermost is level with the ground, the lower bulb would be at its right depth. In all cases it is advisable to be rather deeper than too .shallow. In planting small bulbs they should be at least two inches below the ground, whilst large ones may be four or even'six inches below the ground. The distance apart should be equal to the average diameter of the bulb, or the same dist; nee between bulbs as they are deep.

DAFFODILS IN POTS. It is only by early potting that the finest blooms can be obtained. It is not a question of desirability, but of necessity. Procure the bulbs and pot at the earliest possible moment. A good fibrous loam is the best compost, with the addition of about one-third its bulk of old, well-rotted leaf-soil. Break the loam up with the fingers, so as to get all the fibre, or the soil will go close and hard. A very moderate amount of coarse silver sand can be added if desired, and if possible one and a half pound of bonemeal to each bushel of soil. Perfectly clean pots should be used, with plenty of drainage, over which it is an advantage to place a .few lumps of charcoal and the roughest parts of the compost. The bulbs should be just covered with soil, except the largest varieties, and of these the* tops may protrude; but with the small bulbs of. the miniature species, half an inch of earth should cover them. Do not over-fill the pots with soil; allow about half an inch for watering purposes. After all are potted, water well through a fine rosed can, and plunge the pots either in old leaf mould, coconut fibre, or ashes, to a depth of at least two inches. As a rule no further watering will be required until they are lifted three months later, but if they are under a wall, or in such a position that they are very much sheltered, they should from time to time be examined to see that they are moist. Do not leave them in the plunging bed longer than three months. Lift them all and let them stand either indoors or in a cold greenhouse until they are wanted. If topgrowth has advanced two or three inches, do not expose them to the fullest light for a fortnight or co.

LEMON-SCENTED VERBENA. * ' This beautiful, fragrant shrub (Aloysea citriodora) is quite hardy, but in cold districts needs a slfcltered position. Some people find the plant hard' to propagate, but it grows best from internodal cuttings. Take them at this time of the year, and choose nice ripe-looking pieces, without flowers, and about 3in long, cutting them mid-way between nodes. With scissors trim off the lower pair of leaves, and nip out the growing point. Then place about eight around the edge of a sin pot in very sandy soil. The pot is well watered. To* keep it from getting dry, plunge in an open bed, and' shade from the sun. It is not even covered with a piece of glass. If there is not enough rain, water must be given. In due course the rooted cuttings can be potted off.

ONIONS FOR EXHIBITION. Onions grown for exhibition should be lifted eight or ten days before they are required and turned bottom upwards. Although they lose a little in weight, the bulbs are much firmer and the necks gmaller.