CACTI AS WINDOW PLANTS.

Auckland Star, Volume LXI, Issue 33, 8 February 1930, Page 6 (Supplement)

CACTI AS WINDOW PLANTS.

, ' There are few plants that afford a more pleasurable and interesting study 1 with a minimum amount of attention 1 than members of the cacti family. They i are the curiosities of plant life, and their i simple habits, beautiful, even gorgeous, , flowers, and the highly grotesque shapes ; assumed by some of them, soon make . favourites, when once they are known, s Cacti are good plants for an amateur tc? commence with as they will stand an amount of wrong treatment and neglect, that would be fatal to most ordinary plants. In the culture of cacti, it is necessary to consider the climatic con- . ditions under which they exist in their native haunts, and by trying to carry this out we may be assured of success. They grow in most tropical countries and are to be found in the barren sandy districts of those countries where practically no other form of vegetation can exist. In some parts there 1 is no rain for many months and the heat of the sun is most intense. At nights there is a heavy mist and it is principally by the absorption of this moisture throng]) tlie leaves and the stem that the cacti flourish and grow to gigantic proportions. Thus it will be seen that they require all tDe sun possible and little or no water at certain periods. For this reason. they are especially suitable for those with limited time to attend to plants. In potting it is essential that good drainage be provided and at least one third of the pot should be filled with crocks and small stones. A suitable compost is two parts of good loam and one pari each of sand, brick rubbish, and old mortar. Only put the roots of the plant in the soil and endeavour to keep the stems away from the soil by supporting them with small sticks. After potting water well • and stand them in a cool place until the compost seems moderately firm in the pots. In placing them in position in the window, do not stand the pots in saucers, as stagnant water and damp soil will soon cause tliem to rot. Generally speaking, cacti require no manyre, but when about to flower the Phyllo-cactuses may be given a little soot-water. During the growing season, October to April, they should be kept well supplied with water, but during winter months they require to rest and little or none should be given unless the stems show signs of shrivelling. During summer they can be placed outside to ripen the stems, as it is only from plants whose stems have ripened and which have naturally rested that flowers may be expected. The stems and leaves should at all times be kept clean and free from dust. This can be done !by the aid of a small pair of bellows or by washing "them. Nothing is easier than the propagation of many of the species. Cuttings of the stems or young shoots from ' two to three inches in length should be taken and placed in the sun for a day or two until the base is quite dry. Insert these in pots of sandy soil and they will strike readily. In some of the globular forms where there are no shoots or in some cases where- the bottom portion shows signs of rotting, cut the top part clean oft' and lay it upon sand until the wouna is quite dry, and then treat in the same manner as recommended for the other cuttings. Cacti do not require repotting often, once in every three or four years will be quite sufficient. When not in flower they can be syringed occasionally with tepid water.

POTTING HYACINTHS AND

NARCISSI.

The Roman hyacinth and early-flower-ing narcissi'are not difficult to grow if three or four points of some importance are attended to. These bulbs thrive in a light compost, and one of the chief ingredients should be rotted leaf-soil; to this add good mellow loam and some coarse sand. Foj- both hyacinths and narcissi similar treatment as regards potting and after-management will dr». If 'we take a G-inch- pot we may place, at least, five bulbs of hyacinths and

four of narcissi, respectively, in each one. No. 1, shows sound drainage; No. 2, the right position of the bulbs when potted; No. 3, shows the pots under ashes in a cool position outside; ,and No. 4, empty inverted flower pots put on to prevent the ashes interfering with the new growth and flower stems; No. 5, shows the stage when the plants should 'be moved irom the ashes to a cold frame, there to be gradually exposed to full light and air. CABBAGES FOR SPRING. Few vegetables are so welcome, as spring cabbages, and it is worth a little trouble to grow a good bed of them. Two sowings should be made, one about the middle of February, and one a fortnight later. Draw shallow drills 10 inches apayt in au open part of the garden to receive the seeds, and cover with fine foil after sowing. It is important to have the soil in a thoroughly moist condition ft the time of sowing, or the plapts are likely to seed prematurely instead of forming good, solid heads. If the ground is dry, water the drills before sowing. When large enough plant them out on a well-prepared piece of ground. It i? important to have the soil firm to promote sturdy growth, and freshly dug ground should Be trodden over before planting. Plant them on a site that has not grown, a brassica crop' for three years. v , »'•!' : •*.