FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LX, Issue 46, 23 February 1929, Page 4

FASHION NOTES.

THE LATEST FROM PARIS. A MODERNISED 1880 STYLE. (By A PARISIAN EXPERT.) Christmas presents are a washout from first to last, and, apart from those weird articles sold as "novelties," of which the catalogues are full, the others are so dear that only the very fat purses or the nouveau riches can afford 'them. I have looked through about ten Christmas numbers, and they are full of diamond pendants, motor

cars, leather bags and grown-up toys. Children don't play with toys nowadays, and it's no use pretending they do, although the new French dollies are too charming for words, and even the 102S mademoiselle might appreciate them. All in muslin, they are, with beautifully painted complexions, with yellow hair, black hair —green hair, sometimes —and as for their clothes, they are too lovely for words, but, oh, so expensive! For example, 1 have seen a tiny cloak for a black-haired dolly made of gold gauze lined with sky-blue silk, and edged with swansdown, marked 100 francs. There's a hat "to match," says the vendeuse, noticing that her client has turned pale. ■'Or, if you prefer an ermine coat, here it is" (imitation, ot course, and made of pussy cat), for 69 francs, which seems rather chcap. One attractive little dolly person also sported a tremendously becoming curled green wig (I often wonder why it is that Nature is so dull about colouring our lieads and faces!) and wore a flounced silk frock of apple green taffeta edged with bright pink, which dress, said the vendeuse, was almost given away at 250 francs. And the dolls themselves! Jointed dollies, wearing lovely shoes and silk stockings, with their rose-pink emeraldgreen, sapphire and pale primrose-yellow hair, are all perfectly dear. Their eyes are mostly green or blue, and their eyelashes are of real hair. They carry little purses, in which a vanity case is found, dainty little lace-edged handkerchiefs, and a wee little powder puff. There lias beeu a great deal of talk of ISBO eostumcs influencing the present fashions, but though bustle-effect models have been presented, few are chosen. In some collections, however, the closedraped front line of the 'SO's is used, together with a flat back effect, and it brings a real tcuch of novelty which is! decidedly in the feeling of the present day. When used in afternoon and evening gowns, this line is often combined with hemlines, knee-high in front and falling to something short of the ankles at the back, as though the train line of the bustle-period had been lifted half a metre from the ground. Several of the new frocks show some novel handling of inverted box pleats. Several show tunic skirts, split in front or on one side, and worn jver a slip of contrasting texture. Coats are narrow in line, with large collars and cuffs, very often of flat fur. The Princess cut, fitted to give the modern silhouette,| appears it) many afternoon and evening models. Eccentricities Rampant. Eccentricities appear to be rampant this season, and when a well-known Paris dressiuak'ii opened his collection recently, it was found that nearly every frock was provided with trousers, Turkish and otherwise! Sometimes

they were concealed beneath hanging panels or consisted of divided skirts, but more often they were frankly trousers with 110 pretention to anything else. They might have come straight from a Turkish harem, slightly influenced by Western dressmaking art. It remains to be seen whether Paris will "take" to these new-fangled styles or not. On evening gowns, the trousers were made of gold lace, metal tissues, satin or georgette, and were loose and rarely hidden, while the afternoon frocks were usually adorned with d..-creet little affairs. There were also some astonishing effects for morning and sports wear. A tweed costume was composed of a coat and a blouse, which was tucked into something that resembled plus fours. Another >va-s an ensemble, apparently intended for golf. The frock

waistcoat and joined to a pair of knickers, which were fairly loose, until just below the knee, where they.fitted. The coat was three-quarter length. Swathed headdresses and turbans to match were worn with most of the evening [.'owns. The Handkerchief Vogue. The handkerchief vogue still persists. Paris dressmakers continue designing very large chiffon, or chiffon and lace handkerchiefs. One model created by a famous couturiere, is edged with lace on two sides so as to form the initial letter of the name of the wearer—a kind! of problem signature. The handker-i chief is not crumpled into a ball, or slipped into an evening bag as a more prosaic one might be, but is held daintily by the centre, and allowed to hang down so that its delicate lace trimming ori exquisitely embroidered border or monogram may be seen. Quite a number of women carry these handkerchiefs while dancing, with chaVming effect. Our Sketch. This design is quite unique, being made in a rose beige georgette, which has a

novel skirt, decorated with circular flounces. An interesting motif in strass and coral, forms, a striking note of garniture on the corsage.