Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 255, 27 October 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

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„ , 1 —Letters should be in not later than Tuesday to be answered toe same "week—addressed to Garden Editor, ".Star',' Office, Auckland.

as" possible' ' te n ° ne SitlC 01 tiie pai)or ' ancl all communications as concise r>™L-ili~^ IOW T r3 ' ctc " s ? nt for n a m inp. must be sent separately, and, IT possible, i ran- it "J 4 or w°°?en bo*—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in tianmt and the contents damaged. 4 T~ rile fu !' name and address or the sender must always be sent, but a nom do plurne or initial may be given for publication. /

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SOWING ANNUALS.

When sowing annuals in the open border, much labour of thinning can be saved if, instead of scattering a thick patch of seed, a few seeds, say three, or lour, it depends on their size, are sown at six, nine or twelve inches apart, according to the height and habit of the plant. When the plants are about an inch high the weaker seedlings can be removed, but with most annuals even

SOW ANNUALS THINLY. this is unnecessary. It is also a good plan when sowing such seed in the open border, after sowing the seed to cover with a little sand. It acts as a slight preventive against slugs, especially if, when the seedlings show, the sand between is kept loose. Fine shell or scoria is also good for the purpose. PLANTING OUT ANTIRRHINUMS There must be no delay in planting out such things as antirrhinums, penstemons and violas grown from cuttings or seedlings. It is important that they should get well rooted before the

weather becomes very warm. They are amongst the earliest of bedding plants which can bo plantod out, and when attended to in time they do not hinder the planting of tender subjects later on.

NEW POTATO PEST. The "Nurseryman and Seedjnan" refers as follows to what is considered as a new pest of the potato, which has appeared in Lancashire. The probability of it reaching this country may be small; at the same time we can do without it and "forewarned is forearmed." A new potato past, the celworm or Heterodera Schachtii as it is described by the scientists, has made its appearance on some of the farms in south-west Lancashire and also in arable districts outside Manchester. The large potato growers are much concerned. It is believed to be the original beet eelworm, but apparently it has recently adapted itself to the potato, where it thrives abundantly. Signs of the attack begin to show themselves in the middle of .June (December in New Zealand), when the foliage shows signs of premature decay, for which the farmers have blamed the weather. Subsequently the plants stop growing altogether and the yield of the affected crop is virtually nil. The worm, which is about the size of a small pinliead, attaches itself to the roots of the tuber and eventually robs them of their vitality. On some plants there arc thousands, to the extent of 20 or 30 to the inch, each cyst or worm containing from 200 to ;300 eggs, which will hatch out the following season in a subsequent potato crop. So far the pest is au enigma to the scientists. SOWING POLYANTHUS. To keep the garden well provided with flowers, it is necessary to look ahead, and the present is a good time to sow polyanthus and primroses. These are of rather slow germination and, while 6mall, of slow growth. If good plants are required by autumn it is necessary to sow early and to keep them going by watering and shading throughout the summer. Those who are sowing seed from their own plants should make a point of sowing it as soon as ripe. It germinates much more easily and the young plants as a rule come away more quickly. The best time to lift and divide these plants is now, while the weather is cool and the soil moist.

AFRICAN MARIGOLDS. There was a time when these were much more in vogue than at present and it was no uncommon thing to see them on the show bench especially in the north of England and Scotland. A few weeks ago Messrs. Dobhie of Edinburgh put up a stand of African and other marigolds at one of the Royal horticultural shows, and it received quite an ovation. The correspondent describing the show said: "It was not a case of single blooms,'but whole branches loaded with blooms were used." A silver gilt Banksian medal was awarded. The African marigold as a border plant is very beautiful and its large globular flowers of lemon or orange show up well amongst other plants; They arc not everybody's choicc as cut flowers, but as subjects for a sunny, rather dry border, they are very good. They like plenty of manure in the soil. The plants are easily raised from seed, and are of comparative quick growth. PERENNIAL PHLOX. These arc beginning to send up shoots and, where the clumps are large and have stood for several years without being divided, this is a good time to lift and replant. The soil should be as rich and as well-manured as possible. Lift the plants and divide them, allowing two or three shoots to each. The growthon the outer parts of the clump will bo found the more vigorous, and should be preferred for planting. Allow a foot or so between each piece, and if clumps in a border are required, plant four or live pieces. If the clumps arc not to be divided this season, the soil round then should be lightly dug over with a fork and a good coating of manure placed round each. The best heads arc obtained by lifting and replanting ycariv, although this is not always possible, and as an alternative mulching with manure is the next beat method. GREEN MANURING. Soiling crops, or green manuring, as it is often known, is done by sowing a catch crop, letting it grow till the ground is ready, and then digging it in. After early peas or potatoes, mustard or rape may be sown and dug in when a foot or so high. Field peas, vetches and clover may also be used. In deciding what to sow, remember that the rains during the winter rob the soil of much of its nitrogen. Much of the nitrogen in the soil is in the form of nitrates, which are easily dissolved in water. The chief value of the autumn sown soiling crop is that it absorbs the nitrates from the soil, and locks them up in the roots, stems and leaves, and prevents this washing out by rains. Peas, clover, and vetches actually increase the amount of nitrogen in the soil, and so are particularly valuable for a soiling crop.

GENERAL PRINCIPLES IN INSECT PREVENTION.

While it is often only possible to cope with an insect attack oil one's garden crops by spraying at the right tunes thoroughly and persistently, quite a lot can be effected in the way "of prevention by adopting certain general rules of practice. For instance, the elimination of all weeds, refuse, and rubbish from the garden destroys many breeding and harbouring Hand-picking, is an invaluable aid in the home garden, though it is treated with more or less scorn by many amateurs who do not understand its effectiveness and usefulness. Anything which promotes rapid and healthy growth of the plants makes the plants stronger, and so better able to withstand the attacks of insect enemies.

ROSES AND THE ROSE SHOW.

Roses are now making a nice growth and not the least interesting part of rose cultivation is the many and varied forms and colouring of the young leaves and shoots. Watch must be kept for tho first appearancc of aphis. So far this season this does not seem to have caused much trouble. Those wlio have not dono so should give an application of White Island Product No. I to the rose beds. What is the exact reason why it seems to have such a good effect on roses is difficult to say, it may be in a large measure due to some soluble form of magnesia present in the product. Magnesia and iron appear to be essential in small quantities to roses. The Rose Show of the Auckland Horticultural Society will be held at Newmarket on November 8 and 9, and although it is rather difficult to forecast success or failure for such events, where weather conditions have such effect, at the present moment everything points to success, especially where the roses are concerned. The weather has not been too forcing, the bushes are clean and the blooms are swelling slowly but fast enough. Where buds are showing some disbudding must be done. Where there are three or four buds to choose from leave tho one that will fit the date. Where there are a large number of plants grown more risks can be taken, but even then a first-class bloom may be lost, and not able to be replaced, by a few days' neglect a week or so before a show. Shading of the blooms is also necessary, and the shading should be applied to the bud a fortnight or so before the show, not as is usually done, to the full blown bloom, a couple of days before the show, which only enables it to hang together long enough to get it to the show, and fall to pieces before it can be placed in position on, the sliow board. The methods of shading will vary with the individual, but the ordiuary glass jam or mason jar tied between two stakes, and placed so that the bud is just in the neck, is very good. Paper can be tied round the jar to give shade, and on very hot days a heavier shading can be given. It is also waterproof, and will protect from the wind. It will abo be found that if the jar is wrapped round with paper, and the bottom, which, of course, for this purpose becomes the 'op, is left clear when the bud is opening, and a day or so before it is required, that it wiil have the effect of drawing up the centre of the bloom, an advantage wjth many of the varieties with globular-shaped blooms. Plants that are forming buds should have a little assistance with liquid manure or a dusting of 6uperphosphate can be given. Keep off nitrogenous manures, however, as they are inclined to give a soft, flabby, badlycoloured flower. TaVing all things into consideration, the coming show should be one of the best exhibitions of roses that has been seen, if only those who have them will do their part, afnd, of course, always assuming that the "Clerk of the Weather" has no special brands to deliver before that date,