Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 165, 14 July 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

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Correspondents will greatly oblige by observing {he following rales in sending questions for publication in these columns: — I—Letters should be In not Inter thnn Tuesday to be answered the same week— addressed to Garden Editor. "Star" Office, Auckland. 2—Write on one side of the pnper, and make all communications as concise as possible. 3—Flowers, etc., sent for naming must be sent separately, and, if possible, packed in a tin or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in transit and the contents damaged. 4—The ItiU name and address of the sender must always be sent, bnt a nom de plume or initial may be given for publication.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

H.VBRY (City) sends, some specimens for identification. —(1) Agathea coelestris, (2) Symphytum, (3) Polyonum repens (4) Sedum.

J.B.S. (Mt. Eden) sends a specimen which has come up on a piece of grass used as a drying ground? It is a wild parsnip, and, apparently, the seeds have come from some other garden. It is easily controlled by cutting it out with an old knife.

AMATEUR (Oevonport) writes: I have a bed of roses, which tor the past two years have had mildew. I have sprayed with lime-suphur daring that period. Would a top-dressing of White Island Product kill spores still in the soil from fallen leaves?—By all means use the White Island —it appears to suit roses exceptionally welL Give a dressing now and another alter pruning. Gather and burn all prunings and dead leaves'. Some roses are much mere subject to mildew than others, in fact, it appears almost impossible to keep some varieties free.

J.L.D. (Mt. Eden) writes: (1) I planted some tulips three or four inches deep, but the bed sank somewhat and I filled il up so that the bulbs are now about six . inches deep. Will that prevent them flowering this season? I planted some later and they are through the ground? (2) 1 imported some gladioli, which arrived last March, and as they were sprouting I planted them., They all came up, but have not flowered, but are all dying down. Should I lift them or let them remain till they flower next summer? (3) If I sow anemone seed now, will the small bulbs be large enough to replant in January?—(l) The tulips will grow all right, and the depth will not prevent them from flowering, but whether they will bloom or not I cannot say. (2) You would do best to lift the glMlioli once they turn yellow. Tie them in bundles and let .them get thoroughly dry. Once they are dry, replant; they should only need to be out of the ground > for a month. (3) Yes; anemone seed sown now would produce corms for lifting and planting in January. AMATEUR asks: {1) Is it best to apply wood ashes now on vacant ground or wait till planting time? Is potash - unfavourable to any vegetable l (2) What does "unleashed" wood ash mean? (3) Where can I send a sample of soil for analysis, and. the cost? (4) How far back mtfst young fruit trees, just received from nursery, be pruned?—(l) The wood ashes can be sown now. Potash Is one of the plant foods which does not wash away with rain. Sown now it will be available when the planting is done ' (2) If wood ashes are washed by soaking and allowing water to percolate through them so that the soluble potash or alkali is separated they are said to be "leashed." In this state they are of little or no value as manure. Unleashed ashes are as they come from the fire (3) I do not know anyone who undertakes such work. Write to the * Department of Agriculture, Auckland — they would probably undertake it for you. The cost would not be fereat. (4) Young trees should be pruned hard the firstyear of planting. It is difficult to give precise directions, but quite three parts of the top growth should be cut away., When pruned the tree should consist or. a main stem and about three malni branches, about nine inches long. B.M. (Mt. Albert) asks: How- to prune peaches. Mine are full o*. nealtny young growth, and show a forest pi: strong Shoots bearing many laterals.; Should the latter he removed, thinned, or left alone? I understand the main shoots should be ""shortened? —Peaches should oe pruned, so as 'jo retain sufficient o£ last season's wood to carry a crop, allowing plenty of light to get to the centre of the tree, and of an even-, balanced shape. The fruit is borne on laterals made last season, hence sufficient of these should be retained. To prevent the tree getting too tall, the . main leaders should be shortened, to encourage the growth of fruiting laterals aa low down as possible. The branches in and growing towards the centre seldom bear much fruit, and hence are of little value. When laterals are numerous some should be cut back to two or three buds to lighten the tree, and also to force new wood for the following season. A peach tree should be pruned with the object of keeping it full of young wood. At the I same time excessive pruning is inclined to cause a gross .growth that i» of no fruiting value.

ASPARAGUS SPRENGERL This plant, when kept too long in pots, makes such a lot of tuberous roots that it not invariably bursts the pot or else raises itself out of the pot, so that it is almost impossible to properly water it. A wire basket is the best method of growing the plant, for when sus-

pended they allow the long stems to hang down. Large plants that have outgrown their pots can be planted out in a corner of the garden, where they will produce some serviceable stems. The plant sets seed fairly freely, and the best way is to grow a few seedlings yearly, as the young plant 3 give the best results. HOTBEDS AND FRENCH GARDENING. Whatever plan is adopted, the halfrotted leaves in spring can be dealt with as need arises in various useful ways. If hotbeds are wanted* a saving in the horse manure bill will be made by using up a proportion of leaves with the manure when making the hotbed. If a hotbed is wanted at once the leaves can be mixed immediately with the manure for the purpose. How many leaves should be used and how much manure depends on circumstances. Generally speaking about half and half, but usually rather more horse-manure is utilised than leaves. Besides being economical this method of working up the leaves has two other advantages, it gives one a hotbed that-is moderately warm, and at the same time lasting; and when the hotbed is done with you have a splendid compost for use in potting soils, or to top dress beds with, to make up special plots for seedlings and crops. The fresher the manure and the less rotted the leaves at the outset, the greater the heat generated at the start. Laid together in a heap manure and leaves will begin by setting up such warmth as to be unbearable to the band. Then the heat drops a little and [gets steadier. If the mixture is turned

J.E.K. (Mt. Eden) sends me three specimens, one of fungoid growth and , another plants.—The fungus is Clatbrns. It is fairly common, and when it first appears is roundish, later on the apex becomes torn and a globnlar, hollow network expands. This network is covered with mucus, containing the spores. The grass enclosed is not buffalo grass, but apparently a variety of ixia run wild. CUTTING DOWN RASPBERRIEF There is sometimes an indisposition to plant either loganberries or raspberries in gardens because of the need to cut them down to the ground, with the result that they cannot bear a crop in the first year. But what fruiting crop will bear a crop in their first year? Apples, pears and plums will not. It is true trees are sometimes described in nursery catalogues as having fruit buds, but if these buds come to anything they cannot be expected to produce more than a few fruits, and those few should really be taken off in order to-strengthen the trees. As raspberries and loganberries are mnch less vigorous plants, it is still more important to prevent them from dissipating their energies, so the usual practice is to cut them down to the ground after they are planted; there is nothing then to interfere with the growth of the young canes in the following year. There is perhaps one case in. which an exception may be made. If there are more canes than are actually wanted, as may happen when they are being moved from one part of| the garden to another, they may be planted at half the usual distance in the rows, only alternate plants being cut down, the others being left to bear some fruit in the first year, after which they may be removed. There are obvious objections to this method, chief among them being the risk of damaging the roots of the growing plants, but this cannot be avoided. bouvardxas. Old plants of BOuvardias should be treated to a liberal manuring about July. The best manure to use is well rotted cow or horse manure, but. failing that use the remains of an old nibbish heap. This will consist chiefly of decaying vegetable matter, and although not so rich in plant food as stable manure, the addition of some bonedust and wood ashes will make it a fair Substitute. Draw away the old soil around the plants, but do not go deep enough to disturb the roots. Pill, in with old manure or the vegetable refuse and scatter a good handful, or even two will not be too much, of bonedust and wood ashes. A little of the old soil can be scattered over the surface to cover the manure and to prevent the birds scratching it about. CINERARIAS. Cinerarias in pots should not be given a too rich rooting material. Coarse foliage is the result of over-feeding. Three parts loapi and one of leaf mould with goodly sprinkling of silver sand will- suit the plants. If the loam is not particularly rich a little well-rotted manure can be,added, but the manure is inclined to breed worms and cause the soil to sour. Any feeding required later can. be supplied by means of a good fertiliser and liquid manure. Do not keep the plants too wet, but, on the other hand, do not allow them to get dry or Thrips and Red Spider will play havoc with the plants. On fine days a light ! spraying with clean water will do no ; harm. Do not attempt to grow the plants | in a forcing atmosphere. Give as much ' ventilation as possible, so -as to keep the ■ plants hardy. the flower heads 1 begin to show give weak liquid manures ' Once or twice a week will be sufficient.

THE ONOSMAS. Of the onoemas in cultivation, none seem as popular and' as generally known as the golden drop, 0. taurica. It is a charming plant, with long, rough leaves and drooping clusters of yellow, almond-spented flowers. If given a dry, sunny place in poor soil on rockwork, it is delightful with its profusion of golden flowers. It looks best when drooping over a low ledge of the rock garden. 0. taurica is one of the best of the genus, giving little trouble. In wet districts, however, it •is all the better for having something, such as a sheet of glass or a slate, put a few inches above it to throw off the rainfall. It suffers a good deal in winter if wet weather is followed by frost. Next to it in point of ease of culture comes, perhaps, O. stellulatum, also with yellow flowers, but more of a lemon shade. A scarce little plant is O. cassium, with white flowers, this is said to. be fairly hardy. In point of real beauty, however, 0. alborosea must carry off the palm. It has exquisite tubular-shaped flowers, wax-like in substance. These opsn white and pass off rose, while the foliage is silvery, the whole combining to form a most exquisite picture in the rock garden. It is not too long-lived, as a rule, and it is well to propagate it, and, indeed, all the onosmas occasionally, to keep up a stock. They strike readily enough in a cool greenhouse, by taking shoots with a heel and inserting them round the sides of pots in light soil, surfaced with about an inch of sand, and well water in after being inserted. Such charming plants deserve every care, and will repay us if we attend to their few requirements. DEVICE FOB PLANTING TREES. A simple device can be made to assist in keeping fruit trees or bushes in straight lines and at regular distances apart. This consists of three flat pieces of wood like those that form the ordinary measuring rod. All three should

be of equal length and holes can be bored in them to give different lengths when bolted together at the-ends, thus

over a week after piling, left for a few days then turned again, it will be ready for hotbed making. After placing the frame on do not at once put seeds or plants into it, or they will be killed. At first a smelly, dirty moisture will, appear on the inside of the glass, and only when this is clear and practically without smell is the frame likely to be safe. The temperature will then be about seventy to eighty degrees, but it should be tested with a thermometer. In due course the heat of the bed will drop to sixty-five or seventy degrees or lower, then or before then it may be desirable to "line" the hotbed. This is done by placing more manure outside, not inside the heap. Remember, also that a good size for a hotbed is four feet at the back and three at the front, that the hotbed should be fifteen inches wider* all round than the frame to be heated, that it should last about two months when made, and that you make it by laying the coarse strawy stuff at the bottom tramping it well and adding further layers with the fork, treading firm all over after each layer until the thing is finished. Then add the soil, close up, and wait until the temperature has dropped to the point required. The spent hotbed will be found to consist of material very similar to that with which the so-called "French" gardening is carried out. It has been practised for centuries. The French have merely applied it commercially more successfully than ourselves. By working almost day and night, the small market gardeners round Paris do wonders with this system. With the decrease in supplies of horse manure the prospect of commercial success with 'Trench" gardening grows less yearly, but this does not mean that the amateur in suburb or country, who can command a regular, if small, supply, of horse manure will be wise to ignore the possibilities of this dung and the leaf crop. One of the big difficulties, in the rural districts generally, is a good water supply, for French gardening consumes an amazing amount of waten or moisture. At the same time a tremendous quantity of high-class vegetables can be grown on an incredibly limited space by this means, and if we eould discover a cheap substitute in kaatiog and manurial value, for horse OMnure, it would be a tempting proposition for groups of small holders with a fair amount of capital and not afraid of doing a lot of extremely interesting work. Nothing pays an amateur or for that matter a professional gardener better than a few frames or lights, and a hotbed or two. If there is any harder work in the world than the care of a quarter of an acre run under glass in the French fashion as a means of making a living it la indeed difficult to find.

making a triangle. The holes can be marked according to the length they give and all should be at the exact lengths on each of the three limbs of the triangle. This is the common system of planting anything from trees to cabbages. It means that every second line of trees is alternate with the first. Scientifically it is termed the quinconical system, becatise every five trees form a group, one being exactly in the centre between four othersy also at regular distancee and giving each the fullest amount of the space available. This implement will last a lifetime if kept in a drv shed and well cared for.

STARTING VINES.

After pruning and cleaning the vine rods do not tie them up in their permanent positions. The best way is to suspend them by means of twine so that they hang horizontally or slightly curved with the top end hanging down-

BENDING DOWN VINES AT STARTING. wards. This causes tie buds to break more evenly instead of the top buds breaking earlier and more strongly owing to the upward flow of sap which happens, if the rods are tied np permanently, before the buds burst. FLOWEBIXG CRABS. Some of the flowering crabs (pyrus) are exquisitely beautiful when in flower, and they have the ertra charm of bearing later very attractive, and in some cases useful fruit. Flowering crabs come to us from several parte of the world, and they are in great variety. Among those offered are: Pyrus floribunda, a native of Japan, which bears in great profusion beautiful white flowers, deeply suffused with rose. This is a splendid variety, as it grows naturally into a fine-shaped bush, and needs practically no pruning. Pyrus spectabilis is another attractive variety which comes from China and Japan. The blossoms are very large and deeply tinted with pink. The leaves colour ' brilliantly in the autumn.

LAYING OUT NEW GARDENS. In the planting out of new gardens a plot should always be set aside for the growing of vegetables, salads, herbs, etc. It is surprising the amount of vegetables that can be grown in a comparatively Bmall plot, providing reasonable attention is given to the time of sowing, planting, etc. The chief advantage, however, is that once the garden is furnished with crops, they are close at hand when required, while their freshness is assured. In preparing a vegetable plot, the most important thing is to place the soil in the best possible condition to ensure success. This in every instance is essential, as the better condition the soil is in the greater planted. The land should be broken up will be the success of the crops sown or as deeply .as the soil will permit. ANTIRRHINUMS. Antirrhinums may b© sown in boxes in a gentlv-heated house. Put a layer Of leaves in the bottom, fill up with fine, sandy soil and finish off with

finely-sifted material. To sow the seeds thinly, put them on a piece of stiff paper and fold it as shown in the illustration.

SWEET PEAS. Those plants from seeds that were sown in April should be large enough to transplant out into their permanent quarters now. The earlier this is done the better chance it will give the plants of growing strong and healthy before the time for blooming comes round. It will be noted tjiat when the plants are taken out of the pots or boxes thai they have very long roots, and it is necessary that these roots should have holes deep enough to take them to their fullest extent. If they are turned or twisted up the plants are not likely to thrive nearly as well as those that are planted properly. Sweet peas aro naturally deep-rooting things, and should have something well down below the surface to feed on when they need it. When the plants are from four to six inches high they begin to send out tendrils in search of something to cling to, and small twiggy branches of some sort should be put for them to cling tc at once. Slugs are very hard on the young plants, and a careful lookout must be kept for them or they will destroy a whole batch in a single night. As a special precaution, keep the ground free from weeds and lime it occasionally after dark. Never allow the plants to lie about on the ground, but tie them up if they will not cling of their own accord. LOKG SPURS OK OLD FRUIT TREES. The spurs on old fruit trees, especially pears, are liable to get long and crowded. A certain amount of thinning can be done, but care must be taken that the

cutting is not too severe or the next crop will suffer. Take care to preserve short spurs and those with large buds, indicating flowers. Where the trees are very old and large only a certain portion should be done yearly. CORDON-TRAINED FRUIT TREES. These are probably the most economical of all trained trees as they take up such a small space. They can be planted where it is impossible to plant other trees. The trees, however, need careful treatment, for if left to themselves they quickly develop into thick bushes which only bear indifferently. The trees can be planted 18 inches apart and can be trained to a fence or against the wall of a building. Young, low-branched trees should be chosen, the side growths j should be cut back to two buds and the leading growth shortened about half its length. When planting against a wall keep the stem about nine inches out from the wall. The stem can afterwards be pulled over and secured to the wall.