THE WEEK'S WORK.
THE FLOWER GARDEN. ' Newly-planted trees that need it should have stakes or some support against the wind. i Where swaying has caused a cavity to form in the soil around the stem fill it in with more soil to prevent it becoming a basin for water. Dahlias can now be lifted. Choose as dry a day a* possible, and leave the roots to dry a little before storing. Daffodils are now showing freely through the soil. Wher* weeds are bad a light forking between the rows is the best way to bury the weeds. Chrysanthemums should be kept free of weeds and slugs- A spraying of lime sulphur will keep off slugs, and also act as a fungicide. Roses can be planted. Any weak plants in existing beds should be lifted and replaced by some stronger variety. Prepare the ground well for Roses. They will occupy the same ground for several years. Rose beds should be cleared of weeds and fallen leaves. It is a mistake to let tie beds run wild with weeds and rubbish. Whilst recommending the planting of Roses and other shrubs, it must be understood that the weather is the controlling factor. t Do not attempt to work the soil or plant when the ground is sodden. Different soils need different treatment, and a general rule / cannot be laid down. A few days' delay is amply repaid during very wet weather. Cuttings of many rockery and border plants, such as Iceplant, Gasanias, Lobelia, Myosotis, can be put in now. Sowings of Ten-week Stocks, Sweet Peas, Scabious, Pansies, Antirrhinums, Schizanthus, Gaillardia, can be made. It would be advisable to sow in pots or boxes, and to protect from heavy rains. Herbaceous borders can be manured and renovated. Most of the autumn flowering plants are over, and a general clean-up can be given. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Make a sowing of winter Spinach. Thin the plants to stand eight inches apart. The thinnings can be used for culinary purposes. Ground not required for immediate use should be sown down in Oat* or Lupins for digging in. Hand-weeding will, in many cases, be necessary in the case of small seedling crops. Although hoeing is practically out of the question. the stirring of the soil round the roots of plants will bo advantageous. Stirring the soil and an occasional dusting of fertiliser on the soil will keep slugs down. The herb bed can be lifted and replanted- This is necessary to keep it tidy, as many of the plants, like Thyme, Sago, Marjoram, Mint, are inclined to grow straggly and untidy. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Hedge and fruit tree planting can be done when the weather and soil permits of the work. Prepare the soil well, but do not dig out tho holes for the trees till, ready for planting, otherwise they are likely to become receptacles for rain, and take a long time to dry out. Bush fruits, such as Gooseberries, Currants, Loganberries and Raspberries, should be planted at once. Early planting is essential with these. Do not plant Lemon or Orange trees, especially on cold wet soils, till August or September. >, Fruit tree pruning and spraying can be done at any time now* Pruning can be done when other work is impossible* Gather up the prunings and burn them; they are inclined to harbour disease. One of the best winter sprays for deciduous trees is caustic sode wash. - The following is a good formulae! Nitrate of soda, 101b; caustic soda, l«lb; water, lOgal. Add tho nitrate of soda to the water, agitate till dissolved, then add the caustic soda and agitate again. This wash has no sediment to clog the spray nonlsi is death to insects, dormant or otherwise, insects' eggs, fungi, moss and lichen. It leaves the trees clean, almost as if they had been varnished. Choose a fine still day, as the spray is inclined to burn the face. The hands be well greased with a thick grease, or gloves should be worn. Use it on deciduous trees only.
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Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 147, 23 June 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)
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674THE WEEK'S WORK. Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 147, 23 June 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)
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