PRACTICAL GARDENING

Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 141, 16 June 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

PRACTICAL GARDENING

rfDiAWrnus

Correspondents will greatly oblige by observing the following rules in sending questions for publication in these columns:— I—Letters should be in not later than Tuesday to be answered the same weekaddressed to Garden Editor, "Star" Office, Auckland. 2—Write on one side of the paper, and make all communications as concise aa possible. 3—Flowers, etc., sent for naming mnst be sent separately, and, if possible, packed in -a tin or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in transit and the contents damaged. * 4—The full name and address of the render must always be sent, but a nom de plume or initial may be given for publication.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. N.A.F., Botorua, and .T.S.K., Fapakura. answer next week. — (Ed.) PERSIMMONS (Mount Albert) asks: How to prune persimmons?—As a rule these require little or no pruning; all that is necessary is to keep the branches from becoming too thick and to keep the free a good shape; beyond this little or no pruning is required, as the trees are . naturally of a dwart-stuntcd habit.

S.P.R.S. (Papatoetoe) writes: T have-- a plot sown in lupins which I intend to dig in as manure. Must I wait for the flower before it is fit' to dig it in ? I wish the ground for potatoes. How long will i.t take to sufficiently rot the lupin to allow of planting? Will more manure be necessary at time of planting? Last Reason I used Vainit 21b, super Gib, sulphate ammonia 31b, and got a good crop notwithstanding the drought. I should like to plant about end of August.—There is no need to wait till the lupins flower before digging them in, seeing that they are already knee-high I should dig them in at once. If dug in now they would be sufficiently decayed to allow planting at end of August. I should certainly advise you to use the same manure as lust year.

R.SX. (Kllerslie) asks the following questions: (1) Name of enclosed samples of hedge plants? (2) Which is the quickest growing variety? (.'!) If planted from seed or cuttings? (4) If seed, what quantity required, and if cuttings, what part to plant and how fur to plant? (5) Would cows and horses interfere with tliemV—(l) No. 1. Kuonymous latifolia aurea ; No. 'J, Escallonia ingraniii. (2) Both about the same, but the Euonymous would make the best hedge. (3) Cuttings. (4) Use pieces of last year's growth. Make the cuttings about nine inches long. Plant about a foot apart. Some will die and can be replaced. The permauent plants should stand about eighteen inches aj>art. The same applies to the Escallonia. Both root readily if planted now. (0)' I am afraid you would hot find them cattle proof, although if there is a fence you should be able to keep the cattle away from them.

POINSETTIA, Auckland, askg for an article dealing with Poinsettia, Lucullia, - and Lasiandra.—Will give an article dealing with the propagation, etc., next week.— (Ed.)

BEGONIA (Otahuliu) writes: Can yon tell me what is tlie matter with a begonia (pot plant) I have? On its large, handsome leaves a dark spot appeared which quickly spread all over the leaf, shrivelling it up. All the leaves have gone in the same way, and I am afraid tlje plant is going to die. Can you tell me the cause and what to do to prevent it?— It Is due to cold and dampness. Keep the plant on the dry side, not bone dry, but the soil only just moist. Also keep it in as warm a corner as possiblegive it fresh air, of course. It will make a fresh start next spring, once the weather gets warmer. If you know a friend with a greenhouse let them keep it for you till spring. The begonia is a tropical plant, and soon feels the cold and dampness. J.M. (Remuera) writes: My lawn, planted four years ago, and in tip-top condition until about two weeks ,ago. has now several bro*vn, withered patches. Can you tell me the cause and how to remedy It ? —From your description I should say it J is due to grass grub. Apply a good i sprinkling of White Island Product. No. 1, to the patches and also a little beyond them, and work it into the soil, then cover with an old sack or so to keep in the fumes. If it is the grass grub you will understand that the brown patches is where they have been, and the grubs are -working on the fresh grass, at the outer edge of the patch hence the need to treat a larger area than just the part that is brown. Once these get into a it is difficult to check them until they have completely destroyed it If you start before they get too far you may prevent them spoiling the whole lawn. ' Let me know if you have any success. The grubs are small of a dirty white colour and will* be found about two iqches or so below the TJpe two ounces of the White Island Product to the square yard, and give a second application in about three weeks if you have any doubt as to having caught all the grabs.

GARDENER (Point Chevalier). — (1) Could you advise me what ornamental shrubs or trees-would do best on lawn, in a rather exposed position near the sea, and when is the best time to plant them? (2) I planted a tecoma hedge last year, and it failed. Would excessive rain or frost cause failure. I am thinking of planting again this year, when is the best time .to plant?—(l) Abelia tioribunda, arbutus unedo. bamboo, berberis. buddelia cassia, choisya, deutzia. hydrangea. prunus double flowered, scarlet oak, rhus, ~spirea bumalda, veronica. All these W'ould do with you, but there are also many others that would do. If you. had said exactly how many you require,, it' would have been easier to give you a list. Now is a good time to plant shrubs and trees. (2) Excessive rain and sodden ground will kill newly planted tecoma. If your ground is heavy and on the wet side, do not plant until spring, about the end of August or beginning of September is usually very good, but a lot depends on the weather.

W.A.P., Takapuna,— (1) Sends a specimen for identification. (2) Oood volcanic soil, but cannot grow carrots or turnips successfully, would be glad of advice. <o> Should all fruit trees be pruned. I have several kinds but have been advised not to prune pear or plum trees. — (1) Datura stramonium. - also known * as "thorn apple.". A weed of cultivation. It is of no valuo* and has the reputation of being poisonous. (2) I do not understand why you cannot grow turnips and carrots, your soil should suit them. Is it due to inserts? Try a dressing of White Island Product No. 1 at the rate of 2 or a ounce's per square yard worked into the soil about three weeks before sowing. (3) All fruti trees "need some pruning, but in many cases all the pruning required is the cutting, out of dead wood and badly placcd branches; The centres of the trees should be kept open for the reason that if too thick no fruit sets. _ With plums, especially young trees, after pruning for two or three years, to form a good shape they are left without pruning for a year or so; this lets them get rid of their grossness. and encourages the formation of flower buds. With pears, pruning is necessary, but j many varieties of pears are self-sterile, | and will only set when grown close to j other varieties.

GRASS (Otahuhu) - writes.—l have a lawn which is getting very weedy. I have noticed Buffalo grass seems to crowd out all weeds, but I «.m informed that it takes a lot of mowing. Would you advise planting it. Can I get seed or must I get the plants and plant them. My idea was to sow the seed and roll it into the ground. Could this plan be followed with seed of brown top grass. (2) What is the best patato to plant now? — Buffalow grass is coarse and needs a lot of cutting, etc., but it crowds out all other weeds and will keep green in the driest weather. You cannot get seed, but must procure plants. Brown top or any other grass seed would not do much good sown on top of other grasses and rolled in. (l!) Gamekeeper is a very good hardy potato for planting at this season of the year. Other early varieties are Beauty of Hebron and Early Kose, these are fine potatoes, but not such heavy croppers as Gamekeepers.

H.P., Grey writes: (1) I have well manured with stable manure and have sown oafs. These are now about a foot high. Yet the soil seems lacking in something, as the tomatoes, beans and potatoes did not come up to expectations. Would you recommend a dressing of White Island Product No. 1 before sowing, or a dressing of lime now or before sowing? (2) I have dug another piece of ground for the first time, and have sown oats. I have enough manure for a top dressing. I. want to sow potatoes anil to be successful would you recommend anything else? —(1) I should certainly recommend the White Island Product. Dig the oats in now. Sow the White Island Product and resow oats. When you dig it up for cropping use more White Island Product and also some superphosphate. (2) Apply the si manure, but also add .a dressing of White Island Product and superphosphate before planting the potatoes. Potash is necessary, and apparently your land needs either jjotash or some fertiliser that will release the potash already in the soil; White Island Product has proved valuable for this purpose.

J.PX., Whakatane.—l am an amateur gardener. ami grow a lot of roses. I liavt; noticed frequently in "Gardening Notes" reference to liquid manure. A book I have says: "Take three ounces of any garden fertiliser to four gallons of water." Surely the fertiliser must contain its active principles in water soluble form. You advise basic slag for roses; does that the above conditions? —All fertilisers have a certain percentage of their active principles in 0 water soluble form, and this percentage is given in the .analysis supplied by the merchant. Some are-'more water soluble than others, and are better for use as a liquid manure. Basic slag is best use.l in the dry state, as the best part only becomes available slowly, hence it is a slow acting or a lasting manure. Bonedust is similar. Nitrate of soda on the other hand Is entirely water soluble, and is either used by the plant or washed out with rain, hence quoted phrase "apply it little and often." It is wasteful to apply it otherwise. The following, known as Tonks' manure, is considered the best for ' roses: Superphosphate, twelve parts; nitrate of potash, ten parts; sulphate of magnesia, two parts; sulphate of iron, one part; sulphate of lime, eight parts. This should he applied in spring at the rate of four ounces per square yard. Three ounces of dissolved in four gallons of water would make a good liquid manure. A good liquid manure is made as follows: Superphosphate. three parts; of potash, one part; nitrate of soda, three parts. Use' three ounces to four gallons of water, and each four gallons should be enough f»r three or fonr square yards.'