THE WEEK'S WORK.
THE FLOWER GARDEN. The soil is now »o wet that as little tramping as possible should be done. _ The soil around Anemones and Ranunculi should be stirred occasion* ally, and any weeds picked out by hand. Dahlias are now over, and should have quite halt of the tops cut away preparatory for the lifting of the plants. Chrysanthemums should be cut down, and the tops placed on the fire heap. Stir the soil round the plants and pick out any weeds, to give the suckers that are coming up every chance. X few early cuttings of Chrysanthemums can be put in. Some of thef varieties are not very free in sending up Suckers, and every growth must be utilised. Cuttings of many shrubs such as Tecoma, Escallonias, can be planted now. Plant in sandy soil, and plant firmly. Evergreen hedges can be clipped, but do not cut Macrocarpa or other conifers till spring. Border and Perpetual Carnations can be planted. Prepare the bed well, and let it be well drained and away from shade of any kind. Herbaceous borders can be renovated. The majority of plants are over, and what few are worth leaving can be dug round. Before removing the last vestige of the old stems of Lilies, Paeonies and such like, place a good label or stake to indicate their position. Once they have died right down it is impossible to know where they are when digging. Fallen leaves should be raked up, and either stacked or buried. If left they look dirty and unsightly, especially when they are half, rotted. Seedlings that are ready for boxing off, planting or thinning, should be attended to. After planting give them a little extra attention, otherwise slugs may have the lot. Newly-sown lawns should not be trampled upon while very wet. Let the young grass grow, and cut it with a scythe. It is a mistake to start using a wheel-driven machine on a new lawn as soon as the young grass is an inch or so high. Bulbs are now showing through, and where weeds are bad lightly fork over the soil between the bulbs, burying the weeds. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Ground for Potatoes should be well broken up. Do not plant the sets deeply. Potato seed should be boxed for sprouting. Sprouted seed is earlier and gives a more regular crop. A warm position and well drained soil is essential for winter crops. Planting on slightly raised mounds or beds is a good method. Do not plant deeply, as the plants make progress soil can be drawn up to the stems. Plantings of Cabbage and Cauliflowers can be made. Crops that are beginning to mature can be hastened by the application of a little nitrate of soda. Sowings of Turnips, Beet, Onions, Lettuce, Radish, Mustard and Cress, can be made. Any vacant plots should be sown down in Oats, Mustard, or some such crop. It can be dug over when wanted, and the green crop dug in as manure. Pumpkins, etc., should be harvested. No further good is gained by leaving them about on the wet ground. Kumaras should be dug. Once the soil gets wet and sodden the quality of the tubers deteriorates. Don't forget that Rhubarb for early forcing will come on much better if the roots are lifted and exposed for a short time. Don't fail to look over Potatoes which are stored in sheds or similar positions, which make the work convenient on wef days. _ The early removal of diseased tubers will prevent those adjoining from being contaminated. Don't make the mistake of removing the heads from Brussels Sprouts now. Leave them till spring, when they will prove very useful. Don't leave Pea and Bean sticks standing in the rows all the winter. They can hardly be expected to serve anothei* season treated so. Store under cover is possible. Don't neglect the opportunity to store a quantity of fallen tree leaves for digging into the garden, especially if the soil is inclined to be heavy.
THE WEEK'S WORK.
Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 123, 26 May 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)
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