Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LVII, Issue 138, 12 June 1926, Page 26

Practical Gardening

by Dianthus

Correspondents will greatly oblige by observing the following rules la sendlha questions for publication In these columns:— .... I—Letters should be in not later than Tuesday to be answered the same weekaddressed to Garden Editor, " Star " Office. Auckland. Mib7e Write on °ne side of the paper, and make aU communications as concise «a nai.k^"^i. OW o er ?l etc - Bel £ for naming must be sent separately, and. M P 0 »•, Ib \" , finfu ./ J la or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be txoken w transit and the contents damaged. otuntr2?fJS U , name and address of the sender must always be sent, but » norn de Plume or Initial may be given for publication.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. TYRO (Takapuna) writes: —Can you say if l-incli mesh wire netting wiU Keep out the birds known as "white-eyes, or must a smaller mesh be used?—\ouwouia have to use a smaller mesh netting i° keep out some ot the smaller birds such as "white-eyes." D (Epsom) writes: Could you please i-form mc if Altemanfchera will grow from seed. Lt so. what is the best time to sow th e same In seed pa_s?-Artemantbera wW irrow irom seed, but it is so easily ana readily propagated from cuttings and divisions that seed sowing is seldom practised. ' Sow the seed about September, using a sandy compost and well-drained pans. ' The seedlings are very liable to damping, and are very tender during the early stages. KINGSWA. (Edendale) writes: (1) My lawn is full ol Katstail Grass, whicgives it such an untidy appearance that I am going to dig it over and resow it. I should be much obliged for any advice on the matter. (2) I planted some cuttings of Buffalo Grass, but after mowing it does not look ornamental, the bare stems showing. Would it be wise to take it all out?—(1) Dig over the lawn as soon as possible, so that you are enabled to let the ground stand some time before sowing. By digging the ground at once and working the surface occasionally with the hoe, you will get rid of a lot of the weeds. Sowing can be done about August or September. (2) Buffalo Grass as a lawn Grass is not the equal of "English" Grasses. For certain positions that are exceptionally hot and dry, such as slopes, it is perhaps useful, as it will grow and remain green where other Grasses would die out. As a "lawn" grass it is nowhere, having coarse, thick stems, and eventually becomes a thick mat of stems. 1 should advise you to take out the "Buffalo" Grass if the position is one in which finer Grasses will grow. R.B. (Mount Eden)j asks: What is a suitable manure for giving to Palms and Ferns in pots?— Blood and bone and "Clay's fertiliser" are the best and safest manures to use. There are several other sorts which can be used, but "Clay's fertiliser" Is one of the best for the purpose. It is obtainable in small tins at a seed store.

THE VINERY. Although little can be done in the outside garden ou account of the heavy rains and sodden state of the soil, there is always plenty of work requiring attention where Vines or indoor plants are grown. In this department, particularly every advantage should be taken of such weather, for pushing on with bhe work of pruning, cleaning and

dressing"' the Vines. Pruning is the first operation requiring attention, and should be performed as soon as possible after the return of the sap, and if tlie houses have been thrown well open to give the Vines the full benefit of light and air most of the varieties should be in a safe condition for pruning. It does not necessarily follow that all the leaves should have fallen before this operation is performed, as some of the foliage will often adhere to the laterals after the sap has returned. In every case, however, it is better to be on the safe side, and if any doubt exists, it is always better before pruning to cut back one

CHUTMOANTHtrS FBAGRANS. This plant, commonly known as Winter Sweet, with its quaint yellow and brown flowers, ■which are produced on the leafless branches during winter is noted for its fragrance and beauty. The flower lasts well in water, and a small flower spray is quite sufficient to scent a room pleasantly. It seems quite indifferent to soil or position as long as it is sunny. As the flowers are produced on the lateral branches oi the preceding season, it is best, to cut the flowering shoots .back to two- eyes, or buds, as soon as the flowers fade. CASSIA COEYMBOSA. This is one of the best of the yellow pea flowered shrubs, and is very showy when in full flower. It should be given a warm position. It Is quite hardy, although a very severe frost will sometimes cut the foliage. If the frost does cut the foliage, dormant buds lower down will start the following spring.

of the lower laterals on each Vine to see if any bleeding, takes place; and if after a short time no sap is seen exuding from the wounds it will be quite safe to proceed with the work. Where a number of varieties, early, medium

before others are sufficiently dormant. Each variety should he pruned as soon as they are ready, as the later varieties are left before pruning the shorter the season of rest they have before the sap becomes active again. The single rod

and spur system of training is the simplest and the one mostly adopted in indoor Vine culture. With these the pruning consists of cutting the laterals back to two of the strongest buds at the base of each lateral. By leaving two

buds to start until the showing of the best bunch is seen, a better and more even crop is assured, while the least promising lateral can be shortened back or removed if not required for filling up

space. This, of course, applies to Vines where the spurs are formed, and not to one-year-old vines, as these Tequire the lateral to be shortened back to the main cane as the buds are formed on the main rod. As soon as the pruning is completed the Vines should be painted over with some good insecticide, which is best done before removing the loose bark as it destroys many insects that would otherwise escape.

FLOWERS FOR A SHADY BORDER.

The following hardy perennials can be confidently recommended for shady and partially shaded flower borders: — Aconitum (Monkshood): The hooded flowers are iv handsome spikes and appear during January and February. A. Napellas, blue, and its' varieties, alba, white and bicolour, blue and white, are the best; they grow three or four feet high. Anemone: The Japanese Windflower (A. Japonica) is one of our' showiest and best autumn flowering perennials. The plants grow two and a-half to three feet high, occasionally more. There are numerous named varieties; the prevailing shades of colour are rose, pink, and white. Aquilegia (Columbine): The varieties of Columbine are excellent for the shady border; they vary from 18 inches to three feet high, flower during early summer, the prevailing shades of. colour being yellow, blue, white, or pretty Combinations of blue and white, rose and white, etc. Campanula (Bellflowers): There are many delightful blue and white Bellflowers; one might fill a shady, border with them. C. glomerata, purple, and its white variety, 1J feet. C. persicaefolia (the Peach-leaved Bellflower), blue. Cimicifuga. This is distinguished by spikes of feathery white blossoms, and elegant Spirea-like foliage. The plants grow three to four feet high. Doronicum (Leopard's Bane): Doronicum plantigineum and the variety Harpur Crewe (excelsum) are very accommodating plants, growing and flowering freely in the most unfavourable positions. They are about three feet high, and dower in spring and early summer, the yellow flowers are delightful for cutting. E. pilobium (Willow Herb.) The rosy magenta flowers of E. pilobium augustifolium and the white flowers of the variety alba aTe very attractive. Funkia (Plantain Lily): This is excellently suited to the shady border, the broad leaves render the plants attractive before the lavender flower spikes push up. The plants should be set along the front of the border; they make a very pretty border. P. Fortunei, F. Ovata Marginata, F. Sieboldi, F. Subcordata, F. Unduiata Argentea and F. Tardiflora are the best of an interesting lot. The flower spikes grow from one to two feet high. Myosotis (Forget-me-not): This should be scattered here and there along the border in small groups or clusters. The dainty blue flowers make a delightful show. Paeonia (Paeony): The gay flowers of the Paeony are delightful. There are innumerable single and double varieties, for a selection of which reference may he made to a hardy plant catalogue, but thei reader may well begin with the* oldfa&bioned double crimson, double rose, and double white. Papaver (Poppy), the Iceland Popy (Papaver nudicable), is also a very dainty little plant. It grows three or four inches high, and has orange, yellow and white flowers. The plants produce a succession of blooms, which are readily raised from seed. The Orientale Poppy (P..orientale) also thrives on the shady border. Polygonatum multiflorum (Solomon' 3 Seal): The archin.g sprays, with drooping white flowers, are at their best during early summer. The plants grow two to two and a half feet high. The •position fliust be hopeless one if Solomon's Seal refuses to grow there Primula: It is fairly well known that several members of the Primula family will grow in shade, provided the position is not too dry. The coloured Primroses, Polyanthus, Japanese Primrose, and Himalayan Primrose, are the' easiest. All flower in spring and early summer. Saxifraga (Sa__fra_ e ) S. pettata, white, two feet high. S.° granulate, fl, pi, double white, one foot high, and S. umbrosa (London Pride), pink 07-e feet high, call for special mention'

London Pride forms a splendid evergreen edging for a shady border. Viola: On a border not too heavily shaded, and rather moist, the Violas (Tufted Panaies) may be relied upon to produce quantities of flowers. Other popular plants for the shady border are Violets, Japanese Stonecrop (Seduni speetable), Martagon Lily (LUl un . martagon). Evergreen Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), Hardy Cyclamen, Thalictrum glancum, Tredescantia virgihica. Cnmcif-ga and Lysimacliia. M_nv hulba thrive in the shade. Some of the most noticeable are the Bluebell (ScilU nutans), Ornithogalum nutans, Snowdrop, Winter Aconite, Glory of the Snow (Chionodoxa Lucilliae), Daffodil.-:, Fritillary, Zephyranthes Candida and Allium neapolitanum. A border oi hardy ferns provides an unending sourciof pleasure to lovers of this varied family. A mixture of flowering plants, bulbs and hardy ferns is perhaps the most satisfactory- of all.

AUTUMN TINTS. Among the many plants which produce beautifully coloured foliage during autumn none is better than tiiBerberis. This family has been largely added to of late years by introduction; from China and some of the newer varieties are amongst the best of plants for the small garden. Many of the varieties are more or less rare in cultivation, especially in this country, although it is only a matter of time before they are offered. The Berberis can be raised from seed and, as the different varieties cross readily with each other, the resultant seedlings vary in a remarkable degree. Berberis Boryii is one of the best, the foliaae turning ruby-., crimson. B. Prattii with its fine fruit clusters, and B. distyophylla, of which the crimsoned leaves are subdued by the glorious hue that prevades the branch??.' will not be passed by unnoticed. Amor: these and others, not forgetful _ '!\ Vulgaris, the beautiful B. Walsona". which can hardly claim such wonderful leaf colour, can still hold one's admiration, with its lovely bunches of translucent salmony red fruits in their setting of fresh green foliage.