Practical Gardening by Dianthus

Auckland Star, Volume LVII, Issue 132, 5 June 1926, Page 24

Practical Gardening by Dianthus

Correspondents will greatly oblige By observing the rollowins rules i» sending questions for publication in these columns :— .. *—Letters should be in not later than Tuesday to be answered the same week—• •ddressed to Garden Editor. - Star " Office Aucbland. Dos Jfer Write ° n ° ne side of tbe paper, and make a H communicatioufl as concise ai nari^T''" lf)wers : etc -- sent for naming must be sent separately, and, if possible, f" • n " ,ln or wooden box-cardboard boxes are very liable to be troken in iransr ~,j tne cont entß damaged. , 4 '"" full name aud address of the sender must always be sent, but a n«m a* v'uii nitial may be civen for publication.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. AN" AMATKIU iKdendulo. writes: I have. ;i t"boko plant that jtrows nml flowers well. l>m as sn.m as the fruit form it dies DlT.—The trouble i< <liio to the Mowers not bcine properly fertilised. At the present time ii will iirob.ibly !»• il»<' to tin- weather. Hip I'liukf) lielnjj il hot weather plant. Young plants ilu not bear well the tirst season. Probably you will rind that the plum will do all right next season. A-CMEXA (Kaikohe) writes: m What is wrong with the Acmena leaves sent.' 12) There is a sort of rot in my Delphiniums, Perennial I'liloX. Trim roses: the foliage turns brown :inrl dies off. the roots are white and fall off with the soil when handled. (3) What is tbe hest fertiliser for Carnations?— The Aemena leaves are .-utaeked with Rcnlc. Spray with red oil one part,, water twenty parts. Two sprayings, at intervals of about a month will be necessary. >~) The troulile must " he duo to a root fuujius. or an insect. I'se soot and lime freely iv the sol), but do not apply tin-in together. I'owderod sulphur ran be freely dusted over the stools of the plants and mixed with the soil c-loso around them will be found of great value. Prepare a new piece of -round and move the plants, frfvluff them a fresh start. (31 Ucuieiluxt is the best fertiliser for Carnations, although superphosphate iii small (Hiantities is a very useful form of quickly soluble fertiliser. KII.VMHA (Kemuera) writes: If (irapefniits arc worth growing hero, will you kindly recommend hip one or two varieties for a loamy soil, in a sheltered locality , / 1 should also be glad to kiiow the names of two or three varieties of Lemon and Oranges for planting iv the same area. — I cannot say whether (irapefrult (ire worth growing here or not; the I'oorman's Oranjle, so called, is what is said in lie a form (if Grapefruit, and does well here. The actual varieties of ■-Urapefruit" that tire grown and exported from Florida I do not think have been sufficiently tested in this country to form an opinion of their merits. Lisbon and Eureka arc the most useful Lemons. 'Mediterranean Sweet and Washington Navel are the best varieties of Orange. Poorman's Orange is the best, form of Grapefruit. D .O. (Waihi) asks: (1) Please give mc the names of one or more climbers that will Krow in a situation facing south which gets no sun at all. (2) An apricot tree twelve years old sets no fruit. (3) Also a lime and two orange trees about six years old set no fruit. (4) Gould you "tell mc why the flowers of a camellia almost as soon ns they are open, turn brown and fall off?—(1) A due south position and sunless is not altogether the best for climbing plants. Ivy is olio of the best subjects and some of the varieties are very pretty. The Wiehuralana roses, such as Alberlc Barbier and liorothy Perkins will also do in such a position. Probably the best climbers for siu-h a position are the .lasminuni. There are several varieties, any of Which Would do. i-j There is no moans of alterinK it. If the aprict tree has not set fruit at twelve years old it needs outtinsr out. Apricots do not do well in nil places. (3) The same applies to those. The position may bo too cold. If they do not fruit within the next year or so. give thorn up. Nothing you can do will make them fruit. (4i It is due to the damp weather. White varieties are very liable to this defect. TBLICITY (NorthcotP) writes: There are a number of black lice in the soil of the garden; could yon please tell mc the bost -way to gel rid of these pests?— T-iime and soot act as soil furaiprants to a certain extent, but the best is some of the tar products sold for the purpose. Vaporite and Apterite are two such fumigants. There is also a local product made. Use these things according to directions on the containers.

GLADIOLI. Except perhaps the P.ose. no family of plants has been so much improved for garden use as the late-flowering Gladioli, which stand to December and January very much as Duffodils do to August and September. Modern Gladioli have been so interbred that old, informal divisions and classifications have given way before the ever-increasing host of hybrids of very mixed blood. Xor have the raisers of new varieties reached the end of their resources, for from California we are promised a Gladiolus with a flower like a Cattleya Orchid. The planting of Gladioli can be started iv the autumn and -can be continued at intervals until spring. This ensures a more or less extended season of blooms. The conns, when in store, should be kept dry, but as soon as the corma -start "pointing , ." that is, sending out the green shoot from the centre, it should be planted without delay. Nothing is gained by postponing the work with precocious conns. Those which are still blinds may be retained for later planting. In the mass Gladioli are thirsty plants, and are seen at their best in a wet summer. In a drought they fail unless the roots can get to moisture. They flourish in well-drained peaty soils, but are seldom good in soils which contain much lime. Very light, sandy soils serve well enough in wet weather, but in a dry season they fail unless there is moisture below, and to make sure of this, leaf mould and rotten manure should be worked into them a spit deep. In heavier soils a depth* of three inches

is deep enough for planting, but in lighter ground five inches is not too much. The conns should be spaced about six inches apart. The pastel coloured Gladioli may be freely mixed, lor they do not swear at each other, but stronger tint? are best kept apart, especially the reds, of which there is such an infinite variety. So far as possible tlie different types should not be mixed. ; t lie Primuliuus group being kept apart ' 'oni those with milled petals ar.-I the laitiT imni tin , older types. Any par- ■ iriiliir ilmuT can til way* be propagated , ;v sowing ilsi , >-pa\vii. which may Ikn'.iiid attached to the conns when they iic lifted. These vary hi size from a 'argc pea in a pin's head, but all make zood conn? the following season. The sewing of reed js well worth while, for. though, there are more blanks than prizes, the prizes are numerous enough and are eooa gained* ,',... :^~ lt ~ ■ \ni^_

PAEONIES. During recent years the herbaceous paeony has received considerable attention at the hands of specialists, with the ro-ult that many improvements have been effected in the habit, form of plant and flower, and also in the colour of the flowers. In addition to

being large in size, both the double and single flowers are very handsome, and in a good collection the mo.-t beautiful, delicate rich tints and shades are produced, whilst some of the flowers of some va.ietie* arc sweetly scented. Paeonies are hardy and form excellent subjects for many positions. A light, rich, loamy soil suito them best, but r.ncc established they will succeed on a variety of soils. Ono or' tbe principal requirements is good drainage. This

must be perfect, as a water-logged soil is detrimental to the roots and causes them to rot The ground should be well prepared and the manure well incorporated with the lower spits of soilPaeonies do not like root disturbance and are best when left alone for years, provided they are well mulched annually with well rotted manure. One reason why the soil should be well prepared ;n the first place is because the plants remain in one position for a long period. The roots should not be planted less than three feet apart, with the shoots at the crown about two inches below the surface. The position of the roots should be carefully marked so that at any future working of the

soil there is no fear of damaging the crowns with hoe, fork or spade. The space between the plants can be utilised for growing annuals or Ldliums. / When the clumps get very I large they can be carefully lifted and ! divided, so that each division contains at least two eyes. The best time for planting is May and August. During i hot, dry weather the plants should be j supplied with abundance of water, whilst weak liquid manure periodically applied is of great advantage. After * flowering the plants must be allowed i to die down naturally and the tops must j never be cut oft' whilst green. i HOW TO USE FOWL MANURE. Fowl manure furnishes fertilising elements in concentrated form, and should be mixed with less active material to increase bulk. For either light or heavy soils it may be mixed with wood ashes, using one to three parts of fowl manure to one of wood ashes. For light sandy soils with little humus, mix with three or four times as much rich loam or leaf mould. For heavy clay soils use a sandy loam in place of the leaf mould, or road dust, sand or fine coal ashes. Either of these composts may be applied as topdressings or directly to.the plants. PANSIES AND VIOLAS. During the dry spell at the end of the summer there were severe losses amongst those plants. Those plants which did survive, however, have since made pood growth, and are in many cases bunches or tufts of growths. These tufts are too thick to do much good. ami to lie successful the plants should be lifted, pulled apart and replanted. Each single shoot will make a plant. provided it can be pulled off with one or two roots. Should ony pieces come away without roots, plant them in some sandy soil; the majority will root, and can be planted up later on. When planting these pieces, many of which will be several inches long, the bare stems should bo laid down and covered with soil. Plenty of well-rotted manure or leaf soil is the best medium for Pansieand Violas, BORONIAS. These Australian plants are quite hardy in Auckland, but when planted out should be given a position that is sheltered, and where they should not be ( rowded out by other plants. They are small, lowgrowing plants, and are more iitting for the rockery or flower border than the shrubbery. They need a welldrained soil, and one chiefly composed of sand and leaf mould. Stable manure is too rieli for them, and leaf soil is much more suitable. One thing that they require is a very tightly packed or firm soil, and when planting the soil immediately around the plants should be made very firm. BAIT FOR WOODLICE AND CUTWORMS. Bran, lib; Paris green, loz; molasses, tablespoonful; enough Tratar td give crumbly f£Si?ist£ncy. . ' . \

SOME GOOD CHRYSANTHEMUMAlthough every year see the nu m w of varieties grow larger, there is aw! room for new addition- if they are advance upon older varieties. For „« reason some varieties are very sh * lived. Many of our present day varieti have been going for roars, and still can be considered amongst ur> best. To th

novice tnc selection ot the best varietiet is one of the most difficult tasks, and some varieties .-ecm to have a habit o! doing everything but. the good things said about them. Often it will lie found that they improve in the second or third years of growing them. For this reason do not form an adverse opinion too soon. It is impossible and not advantageous to grow £00 many varieties. Grow enough proved first-class varieties to suit your purpose and add one or two new ones pearly. , eliminating any that are out of date. The j following varieties have done well during the past season, and were grown in Auckland, so that the list can be considered as of plants acclimatised to the district: Autumn Tints, rosy salmon buff with creamy yellow reverse; Doreen, chestnut with old gold reverse; Edith Cavil], light chestnut, gold reverse; Glenartney, salmon with gold reflex; Lucy Cross, rich golden bronze with old gold reverse; Lady E. Miller, deep yellow; Lady Swanson, white sometimes, showing a pink shade on the lower petals; Mrs. A. J. Weller, chestnut suffused with gold; Mrs. W. Honeybone, salmon buff; Pink Pockett, pink with silvery reserve; Pockett's Crimson crimson; Rose Day, pink; Roma Boylee, white; Stephen Brown, salmon with old . gold reverse; Louisa Pockett, white, often showing a blush tint; Yellow Louis* Pockett, a yellow sport- of the variety Louisa Pockett. The above are not given as the best varieties; it is impossible to make such a selection suitable for everybody, but that they did well in Auckland during the past season i≤ a first" class recommendation. WATERING PLANTS. 1 The successful cultivation of plants in pots is largely a matter of the proper management of toe water supply. More plants are kille-l or injured by being given too little ia summer or too much in winter, than by all the other causes put together. At this season the majority of the plants are resting, they cannot therefore use any water and require none, or at least only just sufficient to compensate for loss by evaporation, and thus to prevent shrivel ling of the tissues. To this class belong all deciduous plants and all plants which, though they still retain their leaves, are making no growth. With spring bulbs it is different.