Practical Gardening by Dianthus

Auckland Star, Volume LVII, Issue 78, 3 April 1926, Page 24

Practical Gardening by Dianthus

miP««s_f_ B £?i lde, _i'i greatly oblige by observing the rollowlng rulea la aendla* questions for publication in these columns:— addiiM^ t *« rs -. sh . oul< U2?J n not later than Tuesday to be answered the same week— -aaresse- to Garden Editor, " Star " Offlce, Auckland. possible^' 116 ° U on * Blde ot the P a P er » and make all communications as concise aa pack^r^n o^" 8 .'.. etc - 8en J . t for naming must be sent separately, and, if possible, transit »{J.i »*.- or . w °°den box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in "--sic ana the contents damaged. plume ~ ame .. and , ad dress of the sender must always be sent, but a norn d« v -mc or initial may be given for publication.

THE WEEK'S WORK.

THE FLOWER GARDEN. The mixed border should be- kept as tidy as possible by having any spent plants cut down or pulled out. Dead blooms should be cut off. • Empty spaces in the border can be dug over, manured, and planted with spring flowering plants, such ,as Stocks, Forget-me-nots, Canterbury Bells, Sweet Williams, Primroses, Polyanthus. Where new hedges are to be planted, the work of preparing the soil should be undertaken as soon as possible. The ground should be well dug and some manure added to give the plants a good start. Gladioli conns which have not been lifted should be attended to at once. Thoroughly dry the conns before storing them. Penstemons make the best plants if propagated now, because they can be pinched as soon as rooted, and this will cause them to form bushy plants for putting out next spring. Fuchsias growing outside in the borders should be trimmed back now. The Fuchsia will stand hard cutting. If cut back now, they will commence to make new shoots and flower early next spring. This is a good time to put in cuttings of the Veronicas. There is a wonderful selection of these native plants, but they make the best decorative plants when one or two years old. They are all easily struck from cuttings. Short top growths about two or three inches long, inserted into sandy soil, and shaded from the sun, soon root. This is a good time to cut back old plants, and to insert cuttings of bedding Geraniums. These plants are neglected for some reason or other, probably largely due to the rust which attacks them. If cut back at the end of summer, and cuttings inserted now, they make a fine showing in spring, and the rust does not attack them badly till midsummer, when the flowers are more or less over. Border Carnation layers should be planted as soon as possible. The best manure for these Carnations is 'deeply -worked, -well drained, new soil. If any further manure is required use bonedust. Dust freely with lime during the winter. Do not add any animal manures to the soil; it encourages a sappy growth, and induces disease. Liquid manure made from cow or sheep manure can be applied when the flower spikes begin to show. Any bulb planting should be pushed on rapidly, if left later the flowers will be correspondingly poor. The bulb beds should be cleared. The bulbs, especially the early Polyanthus varieties, are beginning to send out their shoots, and unless hoeing is done at once, the work will have to be left till the shoots are through the ground. Dahlias, Chrysanthemums, Cosmos, perennial Sunflowers, and such like, should be securely staked and tied to prevent damage from wind and rain. Storms are likely, and one night may see a lot of damage done. Autumn flowers are too scarce to allow any to get spoilt for a little care. Gather up any fallen leaves and place them in a pit to rot. Leaf . mould is a first-class material for many purposes, such as mulching, digging into borders, mixing with soil for potting, in fact, it can be used almost anywhere in the garden, and is quite safe in any quantity. Hedges should be cut so as to have them neat and trim for -winter. Cut now they make a little growth, sufficient to take off the hard appearance of a newly trimmed hedge. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. The recent rains have improved the vegetable garden, and crops have revived. Weeds have benefited as usual, and any crops of seedling Onions must be gone over and hand weeded. Crops that are ready for harvesting should be gathered and put under cover. Onions and Shallots, if not already under cover, should be cleaned and put away safely. Potatoes that are not yet dug, should be dug and gathered up, otherwise they will begin to grow again. All small potatoes should be carefully picked up, not altogether for their value, but because they are a nuisance coming up everywhere, and also harbour disease. Crops of Beet and Carrots that are full grown can be lifted and stored. It is much the best method, as when left in the ground during winter the roots split and are spoilt. Make plantings of Cabbage and Cauliflowers. The "fly" will not trouble the plants from now on. Ground that has carried a crop °f P o *** o ,* 4 *his season will do without further digging, provided it is clear of weeds. Sowings of winter Spinach can be made. This is a useful, quickly maturing crop. Harvest Marrows and Pumpkins as soon as the skins harden. Store them in a dry shed, and keep a keen watch for rats, the seeds have a great fascination for them. Earth up Celery as required. Clean the base of the plant of all shoots and suckers before earthing, and choose a dry day for putting the soil round the plants. In very favoured gardens and localities a small planting of Potatoes can be made. Put seed Potatoes into boxes to sprout, do not store them in bags or leave them lying about on the shed floor. Sow Lettuce, Onion, Radish, Cabbage, Cauliflower and Spinach. Protect seedlings from birds. AH ground that is weedy should be dug or trenched. Vacant plots can be sown in Oats, Vetches, Lupins, Clover, or such like cover crop to be dug in later on.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. B.H. (St.-Helier's Bay) writes: This season I intend to plant some outdoor Grape Vines. Would .yon give name of best varieties, distance apart in the row, and liow far the rows are apart, also best time to plant?— The best .varieties for market purposes are Albany Surprise and Black Hamburg. White Grapes do not seem to take on in this country, why I do not know. The rows are twelve feet apart, and the plants six feet apart in the rows. The best time to plant is early spring, about August or September. The ground should be well prepared, and if the ground is not naturally drained it must have drains put in to take away surplus water. A warm, well drained position is essential. So far as manure is concerned, the first year or so applications of bonedust and super would be sufficient, but later oh when the vines are fruiting potash in some form must be given. ARBOREUS (New Lynn) sends a specimen for identification.—lt is Kanax Sinclairi, and is a native of New Zealand. BIS (Ongarue) asks: What is the quickest and best growing hedge to stand against the sea breeze near the Manukau. I propose having a Lawsonlana hedge sheltered for two or three years by Tree Lucerne or quick-growing Wattle. I also propose having hedges of Hakea Saligna. Buddlea, and Laurel.—Your proposals are very good, and I do not think you could do better than plant Lawsoniana sheltered with Tree Lucerne or Wattle. A good dividing hedge that will stand at the seaside is Pittosporum. E.K.S. (Birkdale) sends a Cucumber leaf and wishes to know what the disease is and how to prevent it.—The trouble Is mildew, and It is quite common for old plants to be attacked by it during the autumn. It also attacks Pumpkins and Marrow. Spraying with lime sulphur solution, one part to fifty parts water, will check lt. LIPIX (Bay of Islands), writes: I have been asked to procure seeds of a flower named "Cestrum." . I cannot find it in any of the catalogues I have. Will you tell mc what it is and if I can "get seeds?—Castrum, or Habrothamus. is a hardy shrub bearing drooping panicles of scarlet or pinkish tubular flowers. Seeds are no doubt occasionally procurable, but the plant is so easily propagated from cuttings that the usual means of procuring lt is by purchasing plants. Almost any nurseryman will be able to let you have plants, but I cannot cay where you will get seed*.

MTRTOS (Morningside) writes: (1) Please name enclosed plant. (2) What is a good mixture to dress Apple Trees stems to stop codlin moth ascending? I read fermented Apple juice is recommended to trap moths.—(l) The plant is Rehmannia angulata. (2) A piece of sacking smeared with axle grease and tied round the stem of the tree will do. Occasionally the band must be removed, and any grubs found destroyed. The bands must also be regreased occasionally. The grease can be applied to the stems, but the grease banding is best. As to the -virtues of fermented Apple juice as a moth catcher I cannot say, but under the name of Cider it is not a bad thirst quencher. GUBSSOB (Huntly) writes: I send a sample of what I think Is a manure. It was scraped up from the bottom of an empty railway wagon. One says it is Guano, another Phosphates, and another sand. —It is ground Limestone, or "agricultural lime," as it is sometimes called. AMATEUR (Birkenhead) asks: (1) How tp get early Violets for the market? (2) Best manure for topdressing Primroses? (3) What is the best thing to do with plants of Perennial Phlox that have finished flowering? (4) W-hat are some good flowers to grow for florists?—(l) The production of early Violets is largely a matter of variety. The variety California ie the nest variety for producing early blooms The plants must be well grown and carefully attended to during the sumer, (2) Cow manure is the best topdressing for Primroses. (3) Cut down the flower stem to within three or four inches of the ground. (4) Sweet Peas, Asters. Miniature 'Sunflowers, Stocks, Daffodils, and Narcissi, Iceland Poppies. In fact, anything that will last well in a cut state Is useful. LAWN (Edendale) writes: I sowed my lawn last spring, and the grass came up very thinly. The grass that has come up is of a coarse nature. What fine grass could I sow to fill up bare spaeos? Some Paspalum also came up. I have dug it up. Do yon think the roots that are left in wil srow again?—L'se Chewings Fescue and Crested Dogstail, about equal quantities by weight of each. The Paspalum does not grow from the underground roots, but seeds remain some years before germinating, so you will have odd pieces appearing which will have to be dug out. Give the lawn a dressing oX basic slag at the rate of four ounces to the square yard.

LAWNS IN THE AUTUMN. The autumn is the best time for topdressing and renovating the surface of lawns that were laid down 12 months ago where the grass has become thin and patchy in places, and for filling up any holes and inequalities. No matter how well the work may have been done at first, subsidences are sure to take place where deep fillings have been made. Consequently the whole surface should be gone over and relevelled to have all such defects remedied. A topdressing of surface soil that is free from weeds, with the addition of suitable fertilisers form a good compost, and when properly applied, to fill up all subsidences and inequalities, an even and level surface will again be produced in readiness for the sowing of some fresh seed. By this means the lawns will be put in a state of repair. Again in dealing with the older lawns, where the 6ward has become thin and patchy and overgrown with moss, these may be considerably improved and renovated by the application of a good rich top-dressing to the depth of about one inch evenly spread over the surface. A liberal dressing of lime should be added to the compost and the whole raked well in. Nutriment derived from such dressings to the old grass and by additional sowings of seed will be a permanent benefit by bringing the sward into good condition. PREPARING BEDS FOR AUTUMN In digging and preparing ground at this season for the planting of bulbs or other plants it should be deeply worked, burying all weeds excepting sorrel, docks, convolvulus and any others that start again from the roots. These must be carefully picked or forked out as the work proceeds. Bury all debris of spent plants, not clearing them off • for removal to the rubbish heap, as is so frequently done. The decaying matter lightens and adds humus to the soil. Now is the very best time of the year to have all vacant places dug over, manured and properly treated for future use, or sowing down in a green crop to dig under in the early spring. REPLACING EARLY ANNUALS. Asters, Phlox, and several other early planted annuals have completed their season of flowering. They should now be dug under and the places they occupied planted with spring flowering bulbs or hardy flowering plants such as Stocks, Antirrhinums, Linarias, G-ail-lardias, Dimorphothecas, and other suitable early flowering kinds. To obtain plentiful supplies of each, whole beds must be devoted to them. Beds of Stocks, Antirrhinums, Anemones, Ranunculi, and a few other suitable varieties of flowers for cutting must be arranged for. A border or more may be planted with a general mixture, including hardy annuals, biennials, and flowering bulbs such as Spanish Irises, Ixias, Sparaxis, and other kinds of bulbs and bulbous plants that are best arranged in clumps. GATHERING APPLES AND FEARS. Fruit should be left on the trees to mature as long as possible. At the same time it should be gathered when ready, for if left too long it naturally falls and is spoilt. . With early fruits the proper time of gathering is usually more noticeable by the colouring or texture, but with late fruits the period of maturity is not so easily seen as the fruits retain their firmness and green colouring till after they are gathered or have fallen. The best and surest sign of the maturity of an Apple or I Pear is when it parts readily from the

lifted the ground can be dug over inn" got ready for another crop. The root can be stored in a shed or under th 8 house, or anywhere where it is dry or* failing that, they can be put in a W„ outside. The roots should be pulled and the tops wrenched off with a tirist of the hand. Borne dry soil should be scattered between each layer of rootg Do not make the heaps too large, and be sure the base is dry. If the'ie ig any chance of water flooding the base dig a trench round the heap. Outside' the roots should have a thick layer of straw or rushes placed over them to act as a thatch to keep out the rains or else a few sheets of iron should be placed over the heap. The latter is the easier and if properly done is quite efficient. The cooler and drier the roots are kept the better they will keep in condition. CHRYSANTHEMUMS ABD DAHLIA SHOW. The annual show of the Auckland Horticultural Society will be held on April 8 and 9, at the Municipal Hall Newmarket. The season, althougi somewhat dry, has not been altogether a bad one, and a good display of flotrers is expected. Those who contemplate showing Dahlias should take care to disbud freely, and a week before the show should cease to apply liquid manure. There is plenty of time for heavy wind aad rain and precautions to protect the flowers should be made. The show is rather early for the majority of chrysanthemums, and the idea of nest year having a Dahlia show a fortnight earlier and a Chrysanthemum show later, will no doubt be a great advantage, and should meet with the approval and warrant the support of enthusiasts. The recent rains will have put nev vigour into the plants, and although cut flowers have been somewhat scarce latdy, there should be a good display. Vegetables and fruit should also be shown well, the latter especially, as the dry sunny autumn has been particularly good, and has given fruit a fine colour. It is to he hoped that the entries will be plentiful, and. competition keen.

tree, and this can be ascertained by gently lifting the fruits from the pendant to a horizontal position, and if the fruit leaves the tree easily it can be considered ready for harvesting. The longer a fruit remains on a tree to the better its keeping qualities and also its flavour, and no doubt reason why much of our fruit lacks flavour and keeping qualities is due to the premature ripening caused by the mild autumn and harvesting before the fruits are ready. LIFTING AND STORING ROOT CROPS. When the Beet and Carrot crops have reached maturity in the autumn it is a good plan to lift them and store them for use instead of leaving them in the ground. < The practice of lifting and storing _is not general, and with our mild climate is not actually essential,

but at the same time it is an advantage, especially in small gardens where space is limited. If the roots are left in the ground during the winter they often crack and spoil. Especially is this so .with Carrots. When the roots are