FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LVII, Issue 13, 16 January 1926, Page 26

FASHION NOTES.

(BY AN EXPERT.) PARIS, September 30. Pending the appearance of the new winter trimmings (writes our correspondent), the new tailor-mades have embroidered on them, or are set off, at the neck or on the cuffs with kid or leather, and are enriched with fur, or leopard or renard d'eau. The fashionable kid of the moment, by the way, is the soft kid which is gilded, or silvered. Nearly every tailor-made has a glint of gold or silver somewhere, in the pockets, on the sleeves, and on the cuffs. Whole coats are made of this gold and silver kid for evening wear, collared and cuffed in fur, and cosily lined in the same fur. They are almost too frightfully smart for words. But, to return to our more severer costumes. With these, are worn broad brimmed hats, many of which are entirely of doeskin to match the waistbelt and the handbag. Thus clothed and hatted, those Parisiennes who are at present in their country chateaux, where country life offers more sterner pleasures, in the form of fishing, shooting and motoring—can roam the semimisty fields perfumea with thyme and mint with the assurance of being quite in the picture. The velvet hat has intrigued creators to give a touch of richness to the gown by using velvet for sashes, and for the edge of frills. Most of the autumn gowns have a little tie at the neck, or a length of velvet ribbon introduced in some manner. As a distinctive trimming, or mode of embellishing a frock, velvet and velvet ribbon are in a way taking the place of the narrow band of fur that has smartened many Paris costumes during the past summer season. A semi-sports hat of velvet, with draped crown, is a charming bit of millinery that is going "like hot cakes." It responds to almost every informal occasion, and is suitable for all times and places, for daytirue, town, or country. It is literally a chic top-note with sports costumes, with a more conventional tailored outfit, or with a frock of the foulard type of dress. Velvet is also seen much in the form of dresses, tailor-mades, coats, etc. Conspicuous among the evening gowns are some diaphanous—no other word can expre.-s tiieni!—velvet materials. These velvets are soft, and very fine, on which either the fluttering ends of a velvet sash are shown or a large velvet flower is added to point up the costume. These last flower accessories, are to be had in glorious big roses in their natural shades, from the latest "tea" to deep crimson, in brilliant carnations—green, being by far the most fashionable shade —in white calla lilies, with long slender leaves, and willowy stems. All those lovely flowers give to a frock of delicate fabric the most enchanting effect. One or two, singly or clustered, is usual.

Relief from monotony is always grateful, and couturieres are introducing panels, sections, borders of one kind of dress goods upon another, giving an entirely new effect. In many of the new materials, such as satin, crepe-de-chine, and the woollen goods, the dominating colour is used to edge the pleat - ings and flouncings now so fashionable. A similar scheme- is introduced in the combining of materials of different kinds. The band which is shown in some of the latest costumes has in others widened to the knee, and even to the line of the hip, showing a long bodice of figured goods and a skirt of the plain. The contrast is carried through the costumo to give this effect of two materials. A geometric of floral pattern, stripes, checks, or one of the bold plaids that are having such a vogue, is combined with plain goods, to emphasise the dominating tint in the design.

The circular form is shown in many modes in the latest ensembles. The feeling for uniformity has come to include almost every item of the costume. Now, gown, wrap, hat, footwear, gloves and even i smaller things are of the colour, or in harmonising shades.

Also, the curved line dominates in every feature, making distinctly for grace and beauty. In line, the tendency is still towards straight effects, with greater width achieved in the skirt by plissee panels, aprons, flounces, and pleats. Plissees are rather extensively exploited. Our Sketch. The cloth coat in our illustration has been carried out in a wood-green colour. The fashionable green carnation adorns

that every human face should express harmony of being. When our facial features are not pleasing, we should strive to make up by attuning the inner life, and causing transcend the physical, thus lending beauty of expression to commonplace features.