Practical Gardening by Dianthus

Auckland Star, Volume LVI, Issue 162, 11 July 1925, Page 24

Practical Gardening by Dianthus

Correspondents will greatly oblige by observing the following rules ln sending questions lor publication in these columns:— ~, !—Letters should be in not later than Tuesday to be answered the same week— addressed to Garden Editor, " Star " Offlce, Auckland. no<.K?hl~^ Vrlte ° n ° ne aide ot tho pa P er > and m aUe all communications as concise as „ n r.L 3 T^ lowcrs ' etc -' sent for naming must be sent spparatelv, nnd, If possible, pncnea in a tin or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in transit nnd the contents damaged. t—ihr full name and address of the sender must always be sent, but a norn de plume or initial may be given for publication.

I THE WEEK'S WORK. * % I * t * * % THE FLOWER GARDEN. % J Borders of Violets, Daisies, Primroses and Polyanthus should be _j. s|« kept free from -weeds. Stir the soil around the plants, and -\- _ give an application of cow manure. 'J,'. Now is a good time to lift and re-plant borders of Violets, Daisies, .j. r|_ Polyanthus. The soil should be well manured before planting. * * Regulate and tie up winter flowering Sweet Peas, and take precau- £ _j. tions to keep them free from slugs. .. _jc Candytuft, Poppies, Lupins, Linarias, Alyssums, Shirley Poppies, * * Mignonette may also be sown. In all sowings at this season jj! _!_ of the year special precautions must be taken against slugs. .k * Herbaceous plants, such ai Delphiniums, Phlox, Helianthus, * * Heleniums, Spiraeas, should have the soil around them stirred, _l ___ and the weeds removed. -\- * Rose planting should be done when the soil is dry enough. $ T Trim hedges and clear away all rubbish from the base. Now is the .;_ -j_ time to plant any new hedge plants. The soil should be pre- * * pared a week or two before planting. % J Weed the beds of Anemones and Ranunculi. The soil around the s}_ _: plants should be lightly stirred with a small hand fork. * * THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. * * . * .j. Make a planting of early Potatoes in a warm position, and on well ;•'; T drained soil. £ A sowing of Dwarf Peas should be made as soon as the soil is sjc * workable. Jf * Autumn sown Onions should be kept free of weeds. Stir the soil .j. with a hoe, but be careful not to disturb the young plants. * _jc Get all vacant grbund turned over to prevent weeds from growing. \_ je If the ground is to remain vacant for long, sow a crop of oats _j- * to dig in later on. 3= !£ Prepare new Asparagus beds by trenching. Add plenty of stable $ * or cow manure to the soil. Existing beds should be cleared * of weeds, and the surface lightly stirred with the fork. * _£ Potato sets should be placed in shallow boxes to sprout. The boxes * * must be stood in a light, dry position, free from frost. i|: * Lift Artichokes. Select the medium sized and best shaped for * .. re-planting. The ones for use can be stored in a cool, dry X * shed. * % J Plantings of Cabbage and Cauliflowers can be made. The ground * If should be prepared beforehand. Do not plant when the soil $ *: is sodden. _| : * Give the Rhubarb bed a good coating of manure. New beds can be * •j. prepared and planted. Deep working and plenty of manure % * is required. _i. $ THE FRUIT GARDEN. £ _v Pruning should be done as soon as possible. Gather and burn all '_\ * prunings. Be sure that the implements used are sharp, and * jjj make clean cuts. * The ground for planting new trees should be prepared at once, so .. % c .at P' ant i n K_ c an be done as soon as the weather is suitable. * Jj. Spraying is essential, even if there is only one tree. It is necessary % * to be sure that every part of the stem and branches are touched * * ir the operation is to be effective. # J Clear away all weeds by digging them in. The ground under the __ jj: trees should be clean. Weeds act as a harbour for pests. * * Never dig close to a citrus tree. The hoe and rake are the only * J tools which should be used. Citrus trees make a great many £ _. o surface roots, and digging destroys them. A * Prune vines at any time now. After pruning all loose bark on the j * old stems should be rubbed or scraped off. Then give a good * * spraying with strong Bordeaux or lime sulphur. * I Peaches, Nectarines and Plums should be sprayed with Bordeaux __ * op ~mc »«»phur solution, using it at winter strength. _j_ J -f:

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

P.S. (Remuera) writes.—Thanks very much for your replies to my inquiries. I should like to know if tbe manure in paddocks, mixed with decayed cocksfoot grass, would make a good manure?— Certainly, use all you can get. M.W.I. (Papntoetoe) sends two leaves from a Lemon Tree for examination.—lt looks to be due to scorching, due to the sun shining on globules of water, probably nfter a frosty night. If the leaven begin to turn yellow Just give the trees a little Nitrate of Soda. TIIE MONTHS .Auckland) writes:—ln reading outside your columns books from the Old Country, one is not quite confident of the months they would suit here in Auckland?— The subject is difficult to deal with so as to be correct. According to the calendar we are just tbe opposite in seasons, and .lanuary (England) Is July (Auckland). Being nearer the tropics nnd having a warmer nnd molster climate is another great factor when applying this revision of the calendar to plant life, and many things which are quite summer plants in Eugland are regular winter and early spring subjects here. For instance. Mignonette, Sweet Peas, Anemones, Early Narcissi, Violets. Our Rose and Sweet Pea season ln Auckland Is October to early December, April to June ln England, in England during an average season Sweet Peas and Roses outside arc scarce in April, but during July nnd August are going strong. Sweet Pens and Roses in the average January and February in Auckland are very poor, by reason of the weather. The only rule you can take is to change January (Auckland) to July (England), put the spring two months ahead, and consider the autumn to run for two months longer in Auckland. Rather vague, but as near as I can get to It. Experience over a number of seasons is the only guide. ORCHARD (Papakura) writes:—Will you Inform mo whether suckers of fig and apple trees make good fruiting trees? (2) How many years does it take, for a Christmas plum to bear? (3) What is the name of a good late pear? (4) Late cooking and eating apples for a private garden? (5) Would burnt bone ash be of any value as a manure?—-(1) Suckers never make good trees, and In the case of apples would be useless. (2) Four or five. (3) P. Barry, Beurre Bone. (4) Commerce, Five Crown Pippin, Grannie Smith. Sharp's Late Red, Rome Beauty. (5) Yes. KARAKA (Mount Albert) writes: "I have a border of Red Salvia, which has flowered well, but the last frosts have caught It, ; and the leaves have fallen and left tbe plants bare. Is it best to cut them down, or leave them as they are?"— Leave them as they are until they show signs of starting to grow in the spring. Some may fall altogether. Once frosted, Salvias seldom do much good. J.W. (Waihi) asks for information as to the growing of Peanuts, nature of soil required, and method of sowing. "The climate here is fairly severe, and it may not be possible to grow them, but I should like to try."—The Peanut is essentially _—_—M—-—__—_«_—_—________M___________________M

a subtropical to tropical plant, and I am I afraid that you will not reap any great ] success except in n hot, dry summer. , They require a rich, sandy loam, which i must be well worked, because after flowering the stems turn down and push the nut into the soil, where It develops and ripens. It is also because of this that a hot, dry soil Is required, as It will be obvious that a wet, cold soil would fail to ripen the crop properly. The plants are annual, and the nuts are sown in spring, about October, when the weather begins ' to get warm. The nuts can be sown J whole or broken open, and the kernels sown. Sow about nn inch deep, and allow a foot between the plants and eighteen inches between the rows. When grown commercially twice this space is allowed, but the above will be all that yours require. DROOrY FLOWER (Dannevirke) writes: I had two Cinerarias ln flower; one was picked aud placed ln water, but wilted and failed to revive. What i.s the usual practice with Cinerarias wheu picked to keep them fresh? What is the best method of sealing them? I have been in the habit of burning them ?- Sealing by burning acts with some flowers but I think the best method is boiling water. Stand the stems In about an Inch of boiling water fur a few minutes then take them out and stand in plenty of cold water. Dahlias stand well under this method. CYPRIPEDIUIVI INSIGNE. This is one of the best known of the Lady's Slipper Orchids, and is so easily grown that no amateur need be afraid to try it. It does well where a temperature of, say, 45 degrees, is maintained during the winter, 5,0 that it may be kept in the cool greenhouse. There are numerous varieties, all very free flowering. In tho type the petals and pouch are yellow-brown and the dorsal sepal is the same, with dark spots. The flowers are produced singly on a stiff, erect stem, and they last a month ami sometimes six weeks in be.uty. Cypripedium Insigne makes a good growth and does not go to rest. It should receive a plentiful supply of water in summer. As it possesses no pseuelo bulbs, it must never be allowed *J\ dry. The soil best suited to this species is good yellow loam, with an abundance of crocks, a little moss, and some finely broken brick. A little moss on the surface may be given for the sake of appearances if thought desirable. It should be re-potted every second year and divided at the same time. Heavy shading must be avoided; at the same time it must not be subjected to strong sunlight. It flowers best when given plenty of diffused light.

PLANTING SHRUBS. Deciduous Shrubs of most kinds can now be transplanted with safety. The j ground for their reception should first be dug 2ft deep. Then the places may be marked, putting the taller bushes at the back of the borders or in the centre of the beds, leaving sufficient room for them to make further growth. Those that j are a little lower in height should come in front of tbe tallest, with the dwarf ones placed near the walks. It is an interesting occupation to think out their natural requirements and place them in such n way ns to make them look their host, distributing them over the border to make certain that some flowers may appear in every part. The larger bushes should be filled with a good ball of soil adhering to tbe roots to good growth next year. EDGINGS. During open weather advantage n»ay be taken of the slack time to mend the box edgings or to relay them in order to get a uniform appearance. Dig over the soil exactly where the Box is to be laid, level it and tread it firmly. Then lay the garden line and cut a perpendicular trench. This firm backing serves to hold the Box in position. Edgings to walks, borders and beds are often made of Aubrietias, Thrift, Thyme, Daisies, Snow in Summer (Cerastium) and mossy Saxifrages. They get out of order in the course of a year or so, but can now be pulled into small pieces and relaid as a narrow line, much in the same way as for Box. In both cases the soil should be made firm after planting. THRIPS. Thrips are insignificant in size, but in the greenhouse they are capable 01 doing a considerable amount of harm, attacking almost all kinds of plants. They are also at times troublesome on outdoor plants, especially to peas and beans. These winged insects, of which there are several species, seldom exceed one-tenth of an inch in length and their colour varies from white t yellow, brown and black. The mouth is formed partly for biting and partly for suction. With peas and beans the damage is nearly always done to the blossom thereby checking the development of the pod; but under glass other parts of the plants suffer. The insects settle on the under-

THRIPS AND THE INJURY THEY DO. A, Thrlp, greatly magnified; B, Begonia leaf and stalk showing effects of the pest. sides of the leaves and absorb the juice. As a result the leaves show reddish or brown markings, which are not only unsightly, but cause theni to decay. Sometimes the stalk of the leaf is attacked, as in the case of the Begonia Gloire de Lorraine shown in the illustration, where also it will be seen that the ribs are unduly prominent, due to the leaf itself being infested. The blooms may likewise be disfigured, white flecks spoiling the colours. This is often to be seen on carnations, both out of doorb and under glass. Where their presence has been noted out of doors during the past season steps should be taken to destroy them while they are hibernating. They find shelter for the winter in crevices under the rough bark of trees and amongst rough herbage. Under glass fumigation should be carried out regularly, and will be efficacious iv ridding plants not only of this, but of several other pests. Frequent syringing with a good insecticide used in the proportions advised by the makers will be equally successful and this applies also to plants growing out of doors. COMPOST FOR POT PLANTS. I A compost in which almost any plant may be grown to perfection can be formed of woll-rotten turves, cowdun", and peat, a little.silver sand being added it not sufficiently open, and for such plants as require a sandy soil. Tlie turves should bo cut with a'sharp spade, not more than 3in thick, where the crass forms a compact sward. These should be stacked into a heap to decay. In about three months tho heap will be ready to use. The cowdung should be placed in a heap, turn it over after Ivinsr for six weeks, and again about six weeklater. It will become a unctuous, black mould in three or four months, and is then ready tor use. Tf peat cannot be obtained a good substitute can be found in old fern roots, which can be obtained from native bush, (lose under the ferns will be found a mass of decaying leaves and roots; this is first class for the purpose. Leaf mould can also be used. This can be made by gathering dead leaves of i all descriptions, except pine needles, and stacking, them in a heap, or placing them ,in a pit, and leaving for three or four j months. At the end of that time it will jbe found that the leaves can easily be broken up with a few strokes of the back of the garden fork. The materials thus provided, they may be thoroughly mixed in the following proportions: Loam from the rotten turf. 4 parts; cowdung. 1 part; leaf mould or peat. 1 part. Certain modifications of this compost will be required for .pi ants of rlifTcrent nature. Some will need sand added.

THE BEST PERENNIAL COREOPSIS. Were I asked to name the best perennial Coreopsis I should not hesitate to name C. grandiflora. or iccount of its large golden yellow r .crs, and the freedom with which i. .uduces them for the greater part of summer. In heavy soils it ofto:i dies out the first year after flowering, and in that case it requires to be sown annually to keep up In good soils it flowers most profusely, and proves a good perennial. The long stalks make it one of the best flowers of its colour for cutting. The stalks of C. lanceolata arc not so long, and tho flowers are a little smaller, otherwise this is the plant for heavy soils, as it stands the winter well whether wet or dry. There are two small-flowered Coreopsi3""that aro much admired on account of their pretty foliage and dwarf habit. The leaves of C. verticillata are cut into narrow shreds, and give the impression of numerous leaves at each joint, but actually there arc only two, botli very deeply cut. The stems form a compact, erect tuft. This is the case also with C. rosea, with rose-coloured flowers, and for this reason it is often grown upon a rockery where they keep strictly within their own boundary and do not intrude upon their neighbours. KEROSENE EMULSION. This " easy to hand" insecticide Is one of the best, but the methods of making often prevent people from availing themselves of this spraying mixture. The usual directions require weighing out a certain amount of soap and dissolving it, etc. An American journal gives the following easy method of making kerosene emulsion with sour milk instead of soap:—Put one cup of sour milk and two cups of kerosene in an ordinary twelve-quart bucket. Tip up the pail between your feet, so as to collect all the liquid in one spot. If you use a garden syringe, put it into the milk and kerosene, draw it full and squirt it back with full pressure, continue this until the white mixture " blubs " and is like very thick cream. Then fill the pail with water and you have a pail of fine white milk which is death to all soft-bodied insects which breathe through their bodies. (Of course the emulsion makes a film over their bodies and smothers them.) If you do not own a garden syringe, the sour milk and kerosene can be beaten together with a Dover egg beater, and the result is equally satisfactory. A whisk broom is an excellent substitute for any form of spraying machine, if after being dipped into the diluted emulsion tho broom is given a quick, snappy jerk which throwß the emulsion in a fine spray. In France the Grape vines were sprayed for many years with a brush. If you have only one bush to spTay and need only half a pail of emulsion, use half a cup of sour milk and one cup of kerosene and fill your pail only half full. If the bush is young and small, one quarter of a cup of sour milk and one half a cup of kerosene in one quarter of a pail of water will be all you need. If you use only a small quantity, the milk and kerosene are more easily beaten together in a bowl with a Dover egg beater. It does not injure the egg beater for its more legitimate use. A cup is considered to hold half a pint,

SUBSTANCES OF MANURIAL VALUE.

Name. Composition. Amount Per Rod. When to Apply. How to Apply. Remarks. Seaweed Potash and nitrogen. 3 to 5 barrow loads. During winter. Dig it iu deeply. A quick acting manure. Nightsoil A rich manure. Winter. or when dicrgiiig. In the trench when digging. Should be mixed with soil and allowed to stand for six weeks before using. Sheep manure Nitrogen and phosphates. 2 to 3 kerosene tins full. Can also be used in liquid form. When digging: also to growing crops as a liquid. Richer than stable manure : tine for a light soil. Blood or meat manure Rich in nitrogen and phosphates. One or two gallons. During the earlv spring, anil tn growing crops at any time. Scattered around the plarts, nnd lightly forked in. Rich and quick in UiM inn. Shoddy, feathers, leather refuse, oil seed refuse, rape, dust, etc Nitrogen and phosphates. One to two bushels. Mixed thoroughly with soil when digKing. Slow iii action, hut useful for light soils. Autumn or winter.