TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Auckland Star, Volume LV, Issue 248, 18 October 1924, Page 56 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

CEEEPEH (Pio Tio) sends two specimens for identification, and asks whether it would be advisable to propapnte them or better to buy the shrubs?—(l) Cerasus serrulate or "Japanese Dowering cherry." t'J) Rhododendron Chamaeclstus. You would find it better to purchase plants. They arc difficult to propagate. ANEMONE (Waharoa) asks: (1) Will Anemone and Huuunculi seed come true to type? In other words, If I save one or two flowers for seed, could I rely on an Infinite variety of colours'; C-) Do Anemone and Kuuunmliis bulbs plauted the second year yield good results? (3) Is it advisable to pinch salvia plants back when they are about nine inches high?—(l> Ypk. Pave from good blooms only. (I!) Yc-s. GJ) Yes. MELON (Whangarei) asks: If it Is posslhlo to srow Water and Itock Melons with success in light, rich volcanic soil?— Yes. Water and Hock should do well with you. The soil be well worked anil manure :iddcil. The best nay IT manure is short is to dig out shallow holes about 4rt apart for Watermelons and about oft apart for the Itock Melons, and put in, say, anything up to a kerosene tin of manure, and then put the soil back on top. This will raise a hillock, and after firming by treading, the seeds can be sown. Sow in October; put three or xour seeds to eacli lilll. sow the seeds about an inch deep. Once up and growing nicely pinch out the tip of the main runner when about a foot long; this will cause slde-shnots to form and make the plants sturdy. Apply a little blood and bone manure n-lieu tbe fruit is set. PLUM TREE (Cambridge) writes: (1) We have a Plain tree which was full of blossom. When the leaves came the blossoms turned brown and fell off. The leaves are small and souk- of them have turned yellow, and the tree does not seem to be malting progress. c2> \ Passion vine cut back with the frost has only one piece living. Can anything bo done to promote growth?—(l) From your description I am afraid there is little hope for the tree, and if no improvement is shown within a week or so, I think you would be well-advised to ent it out. Could you not get someone in the district to see the tree , it Is difficult to diagnose the trouble without seeing the tree? The Passion vine will commence and grow now; you can do nothing to hurry it.

SE be?°o? ffiSffiry , Wr l te ?, : l h, " e « n<™. n b o ; Kftjs™ 15 were all replanted last autumn Three SBMS, I JS\& SSS^feiVi: SrC?¥K ~ f^S suite 'Zst aVrbe ""oVare Rood enough without manure" riant^n February. Put the bulbs nbmit two or three inches deep. A position i>! full sun. but sheltered fn.ui hl K n irtiuls. Is the host for thorn. There Is n lisht-bliio In*. Ins tingltaua. which is often railed '•Spanish" Iris. This variety is difficult to (lower successfully. SCARLET RUNNER (Avonuale) asks for the name of n scarlet runner beau that grows to a great length, when to plant, distance apart to plant, nnd would It lie bettor to plant iv the open or close to a shed for shelter. (2) Can you explain why carrots, parsnips, and beet, planted a month aco, have not made -in appearance £—(1) There are a number of selections of Strict liunnor Beans offered. Mo*t seedsmen have one of their own: all are fairly good. The sot-ret of large beans depends npon cultivation and thinning of the pods when crowing. Oliver's Surprise, Champion Kmperor, are all selections of Scarlet Kunner. and ore good varieties. Sow seeil now. in deeply-trenched wellmanured soil. The manure snonia De put down in the bottom of a trench, about two feet deep, and any quantity up to a foot deep can be. put in. Keplacn the original soil, and, after well treadinp to flrtu the mass, sow the seeds Put the seeds about nine inches or a foot apart. During the growing season give an occasional sprinkling ot blood and bone, and some wood ashes. Abundance of water should be given during dry weather. Either position would suit so long as it is iv full sun, and the soil is well prepared. CJ I ennnot say why the carrots, eto., have not rome. It may be due to inserts, birds, or had seed. One thing Is certain. '— -g will need to sow again.

•GREENGROCER (Waitoa) writes: Would jou Inform mc about what size greenhouse I would require to raise caboage, Cauliflower, and Tomato plants?—ihe Cabbage and Canllnosver could bo best raised In a cold frame, not a greenhouse. The size of the house would depend upon you, but a house Uilrty or forty feet long by twelve wide would suit you for a start. "Brett's Gardening Guide" would suit you, and any further details or explanations you could always get through tbcee columns. AMATEUR (Mllford) writes: I have a bed of bulbs enclosed with wire netting, and want to know It It would hurt the Daffodils to turn ducks Into It. I did so last year. The bulbs did not do well; I do not know If It wus a bad seusen too much?—lt would not hurt to let the ducku run over the bulb bed but It would not be advisable to pen the ducts on to It. It' the ducks tread It down very much, the surface must be stirred up. The ducks would do good so long as they are not left on the bed too long. ROSES (Devonport) writes: I have an old barrel half full of fowl manure. Itecently the rain sot into It. Could I use it_ what quantity of water should I use with it and how often *l>ould it be glvenv —The manure can be caisd for rose trees, put a couple of handfuls In a kerosene tin of water and well mix It. It could be used once a week when the roses arc In full growth. WOOD BUG (Kaltaia) asks for a remedy for slaters?—l'oisoned bran mash, made by adding a little ersenlc to bran, and then making in a paste. Phosphorlscd pollard and also the ordinary phosphorus rat poiaon are said to be effective. The poison should be laid at evening in their haunts, and collected next morning. They harbour in old dry corners, amongst rubbish and old wood. By clearing away their hliliog and breeding places nrnre can be dune, to get rid of them SrES (Papatoetoe) writes: "I am sending you a Gladiolus bulb; what is the trouble'; I planted a bed two months ago, nnd many of the plants are showing flower stems, fine healthy specimens, but this rust, is beginning to appear. I sprayed with lime sulphur some weeks ago. What else can I do? Should 1 destroy those plants affected, or will the bulbs be gootl for lifting and storing?— The trouble is Gladioli rust. The best and simplest way Is to destroy affected bulbs. Most so-called cures and preventives sometimes net, and often not. With bulbous plants It Is ditllctilt to treat by spraying, as the trouble often lies in tbe coverlnc of tbe bulb. Unless the bulbs were of a very special variety I should not keep them. If kept, they should be grown in a place by themselves, aud carefully watched to see if the disease is still amongst them. (2) Tbe "leaves off a Kinall kauri tree" could not be found. LAYERING RHODODENDRONS. Once Rhododendrons have gone out of flower any of the lower growths can be layered. The branches should be bent down and ruts made so as to form a tongue, which is pressed into the soil, tho process being similar to that employed in Carnation layerI ing. A Buudy compost should be used

BURGUNDY MIXTURE. This is often recommended in place of Bordeaux, and is equally effective, but is more easily made as common washing soda is used in place of quick lime, the only difference being that half as much more soda than lime is used. To make a summer spray of the usual 4—4—40 Bordeaux use 51b bluestone, 61b soda, 40gals of water. Dissolve materials separately and mix by pouring the soda into the bluestone mixture. DAHLIAS. The Dahlia roots should be ready for division. If they have been stood with the ends of the tubers in a little moist soil, the shoots will be seen developing at the junction of the old stem and tubers. When dividing, each tuber must have a bud or eye attached; tubers which are broken off without an "eye" are of no

value. The Dahlia does not have "eyes" on the tubers like potatoes do. After division, if the tubers are very large, the lower half can be cut away. When planting put the plant down below the ground level in a shallowbasin about four inches deep. When growth has commenced this basin can be filled up so as to cover around the base of the young growth. THE CARNATION MAGGOT. This pest should be looked for in the leaves of tlio plant, picking them out and destroying them as found. This pest conies from an egg laid by a ilv, from which the majTßot is hatched, which then forms a vest by tying two or three leaves together. It then eats its way down into the stem, eventually destroying the heart of the shoot. Spraying with Black Leaf 40, dusting with tobacco powder or soot, will deter the flies from laying their eggs on the foliage, but the" only method of controlling the maggot is by hand picking. ARTIFICIAL MANURE FOR ONIONS. The following is an excellent mixture, the quantities given being sufficient for one rod or perch of ground: Nitrate of soda lib, guano Jib, kainit }lb, sulphate of iron ill). Sow broadcast in ehowerv weather, and well hoe into the ground afterwards as soon as the soil is dry enough; the sooner the better. It should be applied after planting. KEEPING WEEDS DOWN. Keeping the ground clear about the roots of trees and shruha assist their growth, while them is as much npeessity of keeping a shrubbery stirred with the hoo ns there is in the caso of beds in tho kitchen or flower garden.

SOWING ANNTJAXS OUTSIDE. It is well to know that the seeds of half hardy annuals such as Stocks, Asters, Phlox Drummondi, Zinnias, etc., may be safely sown outside in a mod(i - rately sheltered position now. Thouali the plants will be rather late tho blooms will be quite as fine as those sown earlier. NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. It is often a case of a native plant being more appreciated outside Us own country, and tho following from an American source shows that New Zealand Spinach is thought more of away from home. The "Garden Magazine" lias the following:—"For the home vegetable patch it is one of the most desirable of vegetables, combining all good qualities, and having not a single bad one. is slow to germinate, and therefore the time to sow it is in autumn. Then sow it thickly in a patch—say, three feet square. The plants will come up good and strong the following spring. Then transplant when of suitable size to a bed not less than three feet wide —say, in two rows six inches apart and alternately—Ray ten inches apart in the rows. They send out long vines resting on the ground fully three feet and over. Pick the leaves off separately, boil, and season to tasto. From late December until a killing frost comes one can have a constant supply of this delicious vegetable. It is equally as healthful as the common Spinach, and grown in much greater case—practically no care at all except a little weeding about the roots. It is a rampant grower not subject to disease or insect attacks. Of course, no one will grow Chard any more —horrid nightmare—after having grown Kpw Zealand SpinacSv. Just pick the leaves

TOMATOES. Tomatoes may be planted out at any time now, but where late frosts are ] likely to occur some protection will he necessary. A crop of Tomatoes can be | grown on almost any soil, but a ' medium loam no doubt suits it best. I The plants cu.n be purchased from seeds- ; men, and as only a few are required in small gardens it is really tho. easiest and best method. A dozen plants will give sufficient for most households. However, seed sown now will nroducc ulants that will fruit during the summer. The Tomato is a hot weather plant, and many failures are caused by too early planting. The soil is cold and wet, and the plants hang, turn a l>lue colour, and in general look cold, with the result ' that they are never satisfactory. (Often those planted at the end of October are as early as those planted a month earlier. The Tomato is a rampant grower, and a very rich soil for planting is not required. Plant out in rows two or three feet apart and eighteen inches space between plants. It is best to put in the stakes at the time of planting. Many let the plants lie on the ground, but it is best to only grow what ran be staked, 'lants that are grown on the ground are a source of trouble to tind the fruit, and the results are nothing like equal to those staked. The plants can be grown on a fence, and do well and ripen early. The best method of training is the single stem system. All side growths are removed, and only one, the central or main stem, allowed to develop. When the bunches are set, if the extreme tips are cut off, allowing five or six fruits j to each bunch, it will be found to cause the fruits to ripen more quickly. j REPAIRING PERGOIiAS AND ARCHES. Get this work done before the Eoses and other climbers are in full growth The Rambler Roses have gone ahead this year far quicker than usual, and many gardeners look with misgiving at their trees, that are already as green as a hawthorn hedge in full "leaf. Small attentions will be needed here and there such as tying in trails that have broken loose with the wind. But a more serious trouble comes to light after the wet ■winter months. Possessors of a soundlymade pergola, embedded in concrete, have little to fear, but one sees dozens of slight pergolas and arches that are at best very temporary in structure. Just at the critical time when the shoots arc starting into life in spring and are so tender that to untie the Rose a.a remake the porgola is out of the question, a. post gives way. A remedy? and one that will prolong the life of the pergola by year?, if thoroughly carried out, 18 to procure some short stumps with the ends well cresoted. At each weak post drive one of these into the ground as close as possible to the decayed one, and lash the two together with strong wire A swaying support l for Roses is not conducive to their hea tli, but in this manner all can be reason"' 0 " , " 0 aml fl ™ for t,U ' ™« LABELS. Kverythinn ; n ;l (rarden shoul 1 1 labelled. It is the biggest mistake out in buy named subjects, and never put on for a while, and then i'g" bTo"vn away, and the tree or sliv,,i, „,,,„.... -i large medley of plants which are fomnd everywhere. The labels or la.n.-s »*"

gardens vary, uut tlie best, most useful and inexpensive one is the old-fashioned wooden tally. Put the paint on with a little piece of cloth, and write while the paint is wet. Start writing at th* top not the pointed end, and if name is long make two lines rather than write £ f Z !T lho label that tbe »«»»•

CURRENT WORK IN THE GREEN HOUSE. During the month all work should be -well forward and permanent plants started into active growth. Maidenhair and other ferns will be sending up new fronds, and watch must be kept for slugs, which are very fond of the young fronds. Tobacco dust or Hellebore powder dusted on the tops of the plants are the best deterrents; both of these preparations can be purchased cheaply at seed stores. The atmosphere should bo damp and buoyant, and this can be obtained by keeping the paths and benches moist. On warm days an overhead s.vringing can be given, but too much "water on wet, cold days will result in a chilly damp atmosphere, which should bo avoided if possible. Tubers of Marantas, Caladiums, Achimenes, and such like plants, which have lain dormant during the winter, should be shaken out and repotted, using ft compost of loam, leaf-mould and sand, with a little powdered charcoal. The pots must be well drained as fhese plants require abundance of water later on. After potting do not water, unless absolutely necessary, until the growth has started; a light overhead syringing should be sufficient. Begonias and Gloxinia bulbs, which have been kept back for late blooming, should be started now. The earlier started ones will be making nice growth, and should be potted on if necessary, but be sure it is necessary; the tendency is to overpot rather than in the opposite direction. Last year's plants of Coleus, which have been "kept through the winter should have the young growths taken as cuttings; these root readily in sandy soil if kept shaded. Any early raised plants of Coleus should be potted on as they need it, which is when the roots have reached the sides of the pots. Calceolarias are now coming into bloom, and at this stage need a lot of attention. They are very subject to aphis, and fumigation every week or ten days it essential to keep the plants clean. The heads of bloom will require to be staked with thin stakes. Ventilation must be carefully given, draughts being avoided, yet at the same time a cool moving atmosphere is necessary. Regal Pelargoniums, Fuchsias and Schizanthus will be in bloom, and liquid manure occasionally will be of benefit. Pelargoniums and Fuchsias when in full growth will take plenty of liquid manure, twice a week not being too often. When in the young stage Gloxinias must not have the foliage wetted; in fact, throughout the season it is best to avoid any overhead moisture with Gloxinias. Primulas which have finished flowering should be stood outside; if stood in a cool, shaded position they will throw a little more flower later on. Cinerarias must be given plenty of ventilation, the soil kept moist, overhead moisture avoided, and fumigated occasionally to keep down verniin. Hanging baskets tilled with ferns and plants and suspended from the roof, are very nice where they can be managed. The Sernperflorens and Socotrana types of Begonias are very useful for the purpose. Any bedding seedlings and such like which have been raised in the house should be hardened off and placed outside for a few days before planting out.