FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LV, Issue 224, 20 September 1924, Page 22

FASHION NOTES.

(By AN EXPERT.) PARIS, May, 28. The polo club in the Bois de Boulogne is one of those meeting-places where the very best people are seen. The bearers of very great names, pretty women, and amiable sportsmen are to he found there in great numbers. The first Horse Show of the season has just been given on the pologround. There was a great display of exquisite dresses, delicious afternoon capes, and delightful hats. Crepe s continuing its brilliant career. A glance at the Parisiennes assembled on the polo ground in the Bois showed many delightful crepe dresses. One was made of black Mirarmar, with velvet ribbons and ecru lace; another was of red lacquered maroeain crepe, set off with black Chinese embroideries; a black crepe dv Maroc dress by a very famous dressmaker was trimmed with black lace; a silk crepe sports dress, with a pattern printed in various colours, was chic. Prominent amonpr what lias been hinted is the butterfly sleeve, which will do much to alter the silhouette of the future. This sleeve is wide at the armhole, and narrow at the wrist, but this does not dispose of it. It is not exactly of the leg-o'-mutton species, but undoubtedly kin to it, and will be featured on the smartest coats and dresses. This will mean a fulness, a looseness, to the upper portion 6f the fashionable figure, the hips, however, snugly covered, and the skirt —with this sleeve at least—straight and narrow. In some of the advance models the width of the sleeve at the armhole varies. On more conservative models it is quite moderate, but in its more exaggerated form the armhole may reach the hips. Contrasted to the silhouette thus effected, is another, that copies a prolonged waistline, this, another interpretation of the "Directoire." Fullness at the hip line is the mode, and charming coats there are, with extended side pieces at the hips, from which wide side pleats reach to the bottom. Generous flap-pockets are another means of achieving this hip fullness, even double or triple flaps. Many models use two flaring tiers. In these Directoire "feelers," the more exaggerated ear-marks of the period are disregarded. There are no big revers, for instance, except for the more extreme and dressy things, there are no cutaway fronts, no double breasted movements, save in a few models. Ideas in hats are revolutionary. The triangular "cloche," , in its regular form, is passe. Brims have been, developed in many attractive models, snug and rolling, the sharp tricorne, which is never quite out of fashion, variants of the close sailor, and for the immediate future, some delightful brim hats and picture shapes. All of these have more trimming than has been seen for two seasons past. Swagger little buckled bands, rosettes, quills, fancy ostrich motifs, and gay scarves, are used on the smaller hats, and the larger chapes have usually a single flower, or a spray of something distinctive and decorative. With the idea of carrying out the sleeve treatment, a collar in some of the new- gowns, has some detail in harmony, perhaps a band of fur, a cape of the pleating, a giiimpe, or chemisette of the sheer fabric. Collar design is a tenacious thing. Once it is established, as the mode, if it proves to be flattering, that is the final word. The deep "V," that slenderised the throat and set the head so gracefully has had a long life and is still good. Latterly, the "bateau," simple, youthful and smart, has been extremely popular, and is one of the best among the new modes. Any gown, however plain, having the "bateau" line about the neck, finished with a collar of sheer material, is converted into something suitable to be worn many times, always fresh and dainty. Our .Sketch. Organdi dress in a lovely periwinkleblue colouring. The skirt which is of the robe-de-style order, is trimmed with a series of tiny tucks arranged at intervals, the corsage and the wide sleeves being similarly adorned. The corselet,

THINGS WORTk KNOWING. New cotton material should not be washed with other clothes, or the dressing will quite spoil the soupy water. Fill ! a vessel with cold water, and add a handful of salt or a little Epsom 6alts, . and allow the new material to soak all night; then well rinse the softened dressing out, and wash the stuff in tho usual way. ■ Woollens are muck softer if ironed, but they should be nearly dry, and turned inside out, and covered with a piece of muslin or fine linen before the i iron ia used. I Ashes may be used for cleaning steel, and newspaper will make r pper bcauufully bright. For removing stains on glazed ware spirits of salts is very good, but it must be used with extreme care, so as not to burn the hands, and it must be kept in a very safe place oat of the way of children.