POULTRY KEEPING.

Auckland Star, Volume 55, Issue 22, 26 January 1924, Page 20

POULTRY KEEPING.

(By R. J. TERRY.. TO CORRESPONDENTS. A.T. (Waikino) has six White Leghorn yearling hens which are laying only one egg a day. They nre fed pollard and bran and a little bread In the nioruiu.., wheat or maize at night.—lt is probable the hens have laid a large number of esgs. and it is ouly natural that they should ease off. Possibly they are going into a moult. If so It is not advisable to start them laying again till the moult is over. If there is no sign ot moulting add either boiled liver or blood meal to the mash. Give plenty of fresh green stuff mid-day. Substitute stout oats for the wheat and maize. DUCKS (Remuera) has a number of ducks, but every now and ngaln a few die. Their throats seem affected, and there is a decided squeak when they attempt to quack.—Look down the throats of the birds and see if there are any growths. If so, remove and touch the spots with n caustic pencil. If there are no growths but mucous is present or the rnrout smells, wrap n piece of cotton wool or cloth on a stick, dip into a solution, two parts water and one part of peroxide of hydrogen, and swab throat. If you cannot go to this amount of trouble, drop a pinch of powdered sulphur down the throat. FUZZLED (Epsora) has a number of h"ns which have been laying well, but in the last fevr weeks there has been trouble. Loss of appetite, lassitude, comb rather pale, neck extended forward, bird sits on ground unless disturbed.—lt Is probable that as the birds have been laving heavily they arc going into moult. This greatly affects some birds. Give the birds plenty of green food. Add a little sulphur to the mash and half a teaspoonful of plain salt. Soak the brown bread In a small quantity of water, squeeze dry and mix with mash. APPRECIATE (Frankton Junction! has had a little trouble occasionally with one or two of his hens owing to the profusion of the egg passage. When it occurs it is washed and returned On exploring the passage a soft-shelled ess was found, which my correspondent assisted to remove. As there are some very valuable birds on the place he wishes to guard against further trouble' He also asks If I would give Information as regards show birds futility) later on — I am afraid very little can be done to pr ! ! J ent L he occasional profusion of the oviduct To prevent serious consequences wash tho oviduct with a weak solution or alum and water or corrosive sublimate nnd water Do not wash with carbolic or anything which would Irritate or burn, otherwise the hen will strain to again void Irritation. Some families or strains arc more predisposed to this trouble than others. When It does i _« few T dar i"° "? to Bive the oviduct l Sm* ~i TnSert a Uttle I" lre ° UT e oil. w.T.. si °_ Tm an article shortly on washing and preparing birds tor .how RANGATATJA would like to know If t could tell what caused the death «f I ck found dead In the paddock. The ?__ I TVas .. a s P lenf " d layer, and appeared . to be quite healthy, except for a large clot of blood near the head—l should sf? that death was caused by an Injury flnlZ L blow °l thG hcatl had bwn 5 SH* .'," some obstruction and bruised sufficiently to eventually kill. I am pleased that you have had such a successful year. aipANA (Onehunga) writes asking mc If it Is advisable to give green food when fattening cockerels. They have had silver beet and lettuce each day. Do I consider copra meal good for fowls? Should salt be put In mash?— Discontinue feeding «rreen stuff when you start to fatten. Give salt in proportion of a teaspoonful to twenty birds in mash once a day. Copra meal In conjunction with certain other foods would be good. hut. wron.iy combined it might be the reverse. FEED OATS. " If you want eggs to te laid by your adult stock in the winter months then feed a fair number of oats during the summer or hot weather. It seems to be the general impression that wheat is absolutely essential to egg production, but this is not so. A short stout oat, that is an oat of which the kernel is bulky in proportion to the fibre of the husk, will give you plenty of eggs and will at the same time put the internal organs of the laying hen into a healthy condition, reducing the internal or waste fat. There are greatly mistaken ideas as to the feeding of oats. Most people claim that oats are very heating and

their knowledge in many cases is based only on the fact that there is not so much porridge in the summer time as in winter. As a matter of fact, stout oats are the most evenly balanced of all the grains and the least heating, j maize containing the most heating conistihients, wheat next, then barley, fol- | lowed by oats. If you kill a fowl on a farm where oats is the only food obtainable, or rather the only grain obI tainabie. the internal organs will be | quite healthy. There will not be any ! accumulation of fat, the bird will be j Meshy, but that is very dilferent from fat. The liver will be dark. bri_ht and firm, and the bird will handle iirmer ; than will a bird fed solely on wheat or ' maize. j But to come back to the winter eggs. ! Such a hen's internal erj;. ill are in a I condition to receive and utilise a richer • food with more heating properties when ; the cold weather sets in I" other | words, you can put a little more lire ;in the stove as it might be. Jut if a ' hen is fed maize and wheat all through , the summer months it is like a stove more or less blocked up with unused burning material, therefore if you add more coal in die winter it cannot be properly utilised. Admitted that in eoniercial poultry keeping one has to think of (price per bushel and tho weight per bushel of the various grains and so work out that which is economical to use. The excessive feeding of fattening foods is not as likely to occur in the commercial poultry plant as with the small poultry keeper to whom these remarks nre chiefly addressed. But there are numbers of small poultry keepers who want only a fairly regular supply of really fresh eggs for their own consumption. To them a few pence one way or the other makes very little , difference in the feeding of the birds j provided they attain the results. It is to this vast number of poultry keepers to whom I say feed a short stout oat in summer time, and you will see the result next winter. MILD TONICS. I think most of my readers realise by now that I am not an_ advocate of tonic in poultry. To my mind there is only one time to give a real tonic and that is- if you are going to mill or market off your birds at a. certain time. Then you may give a tonic a couple of months "beforehand to endeavour to get the last few extra eggs. Sulphur. But there are a few things which are essentials and cannot be called tonics. During heavy laying and warm weather a small quantity of sulphur may be occasionally ndded to the mash, Do not overdo it. If you give a sufficient quantity to purge the hen you are doing harm and wasting the bulk of the sulphur. Salt. Salt is an essential, and should be given in the mash. An ordinary teaspoonful •to, say, twenty hens. Do not give more. If you err at all make it less. Salt helps in the digestion of the food and helps to check worms and parasites in tho intestines. Iron. The amount of iron in an cgpf varies, but there is always a trace. Therefore the heavy laying birds especially which do not obtain an abundance of grasses, etc., should have a little iron cither in the drinking water or mash. Again do not overdo it. A eimple way of giving iron is to placo a small piece of green stone, or better, powder a piece of green stone and dissolve in the drinking water. Green stone is sulphate of ironDon't make a mistake and think bluo stone will do. Blue stone is sulphate of copper, and if given in any quantity will poison tfhc birds. If your drinking vessels are china, earthenware or enamel a few drops of sulphuric acid added to the drinking water which contains the sulphate of iron will make an improved tonic.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. F.8.N.--.J.'gonsotaha) writes: I have a few Potatoes, aud odd ones are withering. 1 dug up one plant, and the tubers, thougn small, are rotten In the centre, "hat can I do to prevent the trouble?—lbe trouble is Potato Blight. All those that are withering should be dug at once; they will do no further good. Spray with Lime-Sulphur solution 1 part, water 75 parts. The spraying should have been commenced when the tops were just through the ground, and, although you may save some of the crop, you are sure to iose more. TITTOSPOKUM (Kemucra) asks the following questions: (1) The enclosed leaf from a Pittosporum plant I have sprayed twice with Lime-Sulphur, but it does not seem to have had any good results. t'_) What would be a good manure to hurry this hedge on? (Ii) I have the ground ready for a lawn ln the autumn. Wbat would you advise mc to plant iv It before 1 sow the grass seed?—(l) The Pittosporum does suffer from this small scale lnsei t. 'liic' spraying with Lime-Sulphur should have checked it, and probably has, as the new growth will show. The best spray, however, is Red Oil, used 1 ln 00. When spraying be sure to direct the spray to the undersides of the foliage, as it Is there that trouble lurks. Spraying will overcome the trouble. (2) Use bonedust. Pittosporum is often slow growing the first year or so after planting. (:t) Sow oats and dig In when about a foot high. Sow a little superphosphate or bonedust with the oats. S.T.G. (Mornlngside) writes: Would you tell mc the best means of eradicating Hawkwecd from a newly laid lawn?— There is only ono way, and that Is pulling by band. The best tool to use for digging them out is an old enrviug fork. E.J. (Epsom) asks for information in regard to growing Double Daisies aud Phlox.—You do not say how you in feud to raise the plants; whether from Beed or otherwise. Sow the seed of the Double Daisies as soon as possible. The best way is to sow in boxes or pots, and shade until the seedlings are up. When large enough to handle, that will be when the seedlings have made two or three leaves, prick them out iuto rows in the onen ground, put the plants about three inches apart in the row, and the rows six inches apart. If weather Is hot, shade the plants with a few Macrocarpa branches. Water and cultivation is necessary, but rich soU is not required. The plants should be large enough to put into their permanent quarters about May. They can be planted any time during autumn or winter. Phlox can be sown in autumn, and planted out in Ausrust. You want to put something in the bed which will he over before it is njady for tbe Phlox. You could plant Anemones, and these would be nearly, if not quite, over before the Phlox was planted In September. IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. Close attention to weeding and watering will be necessary, as the maximum of growth will be reached by most plants. The late rains were beneficial and copiious, ajid in many gardens artificial 'watering will not have been necessary. 'Especially is this so if the hce is used freely, so that the surface of the ground is kept loose. Artificial watering should not be started if it is possible to do without. Some light soils s ion show the effects of a few dry day.-, and large vigorous growing plants will no a little. limp in the mid-day sun, but it does n.i harm- Keep all dead blooms cut off to prevent seed forming. Any plants that are through flowering should be pulled out. Usually the border is very full just now, and the spent plants can be pulled out with beuclit to the remainder. Staking and tying will also be necessary; it is no use growing the plants until they flower and then let them break down. Asters are nowgrowing freely and should be given a little help by a sprinkling of blood and bone manure or the soil top-dres ed with some half-rotted manure. Dahlias will be needing plenty of attention to trimming and staking, etc. They are growing freely just now, the late rains followed by hot weather has just .su'tcd them. Keep all surplus shoots cut away, let your plants only produce what you require, they stand the knife well and

are improved by a judicious use of it. Gladioli are over, and the bulbs should be lifted as soon as the tops turn yellow. Either tie them in bundles and hang up or let them lie in a cool, airyshed till thoroughly dry. A fortnight or tliree weeks later they can 'be replanted and will bloom in autumn. The Rose beds should bo kept clean, and now is the time to give them come manure—cither superphosphate, Wood and bone, or bonedust will do, or a little of each can be given. The plants if cut back a week or so ago will now be making some nice growth and promise a nice autumn show of bloom. Should aphis appear spray with nicotine. . Chryearitheniums will be needing cloee attention, in fact they require daily attention just now. Surplus ehoots must be removed, staking and tying must be carefully done. Keep a close watch for insecta and caterpillars, and if there are any signs of them spray at once. If rust appears spray with lime sulphur; use arsenate of lead for caterpillars. The Chrysanthemum is a great feeder, and applications of liquid manure should be applied. A good thick mulch of 'half rotted manure will be very beneficial. The layering of Border Carnations should be done. Bulb lifting will aleo be in full swing, and no time should be lost in getting on with this work or the bulbs will be making roots, especially after the last rains and the hot weather- » THE DAFFODIL. The daffodil is the queen of spring flowers and no garden should be without some of the numerous varieties. Except to an enthusiast, there is no need to purchase new and expensive varieties, there are plenty of older sorts which, are of sterling value especially for the ordinary garden where blooms for cutting and decoration are required. The daffodil is a good "doer" and will stand a lot of neglect, but as with everything else it pays to give it a certain amount of attention. The one fault usually found with them is that after blooming the foliage has a somewhat untidy appearance, especially as it ia absolutely necessary to leave them to thoroughly ripen their leaves, as on this depends the following year"s show of bloom. This fault can be partly overcome by allotting them a portion of the garden to themselves. The initial preparation of the ground is most important, for although heavily manured soil is not necessary, deeply dug or trenched ground is of vital importance. A piece of ground in the vegetable portion is as good a place as anywhere, and as they will do in a partly shaded position it is usually quite easy to find a part that is not too suitable for vegetables. The present is a good time to prepare the ground. It should be well drained for the

I daffodil does not like wet feet. Well work the ground, giving it a good dusting with bonedust or basic slag at the rate of about two ounces to the square yard. The manure should be put on prior to digging, bo that it is worked into the soil. The ground should be left rough for the Bttn to get into it as well as possible. Planting can be done any time after the middle of February, the planting depending somewhat upon the weather, as it is much easier to plant when the soil is just moist. Those who have bulbs that have been in their present positions for two years or longer, should lift them as soon as possible. When lifted there will be found bulbs of various sizes; these when thoroughly dry should be cleaned of old scales and sorted into their various sizes ready for planting. In some cases two or three of various sizes will be found joined together; where these arc easily parted it should be done, but not when too closely joined. When breaking them apart be careful not to break awny the bulb without the small basal portion, otherwise it would be of no value. Any bulbs that feel soft or appear diseased should be discarded and burnt. Start lifting the Jonquils or Polyanthus and the Poeticus varieties at once, as these commence to make roots very early. These should also be planted first. Now is the time to order any bulbs you may require. Do not think because the price is low that the varieties are poor. Many of the best sorts increase rapidly and consequently they arc offered cheaper than those which are of slower increase. When lifting the bulbs let them lie on the ground long enough to dry, generally 24 hours is sufficient. When dry place them in boxes in a shed where they can be cleaned and sorted at leisure, flood standard varieties of Daffodils are M. J. Berkeley, Emperor, Empress, King Alfred, Lord Roberts, Evangeline, Conspicuous, Horace, Ideal, l.conic, Lucifer, Mrs. Thompson, Seagull. White Lady. Be particular about keeping the bulbs labelled correctly for onre mixed it is an almost hopeless task to try and sort them <jut again. DIVIDING DAFFODILS.' Many people, when lifting Daffodils, are somewhat at a loss to know which bulbs should be divided and which should not. The illustrations show three

c typical bulbs as lifted. Those like A and B should not be divided. Those like C can be divided, but care should be taken that the small round basal portion is parted, so that each division has an equal portion. HOW TO TELL WHEN APPLES ARE RIPE. Apples are ready for gathering when the seeds are mature. It is not always possible to .tell by the colour, as many varieties, especially the early sorts, take on a high colour very early and long before they are ready for gathering- One method of judging is to gently lift the fruit from the natural pendant position

LACHENALIAS. These charming little early flowerin. bulbs do not seem to be nearly so pomi" lar as they should be. Thef are \er' early flowers, and have beautiful stran like leaves of a shining green, 6 o_i varieties being marked with dark spots ß The flowers are bell-shaped and drooping

2 3 |and are borne in spikes about nine inc\-» high. They look very pretty planted as an edging to beds. As pot or basket plants they are ideal. The iilustra. tion shows how they should be potted or placed hi baskets. When planting in hanging baskets the bulbs should " i, e placed round the sides as well as on the top; they then come through the sidea and when in bloom luok just like a ball of bloom. Place some moss round the sides of the basket to prevent the soil falling or washing out. They are not particular to soil, any good "light soil will suit them. About nine bulbs should be placed in a six-inch pot that allowg the bulbs to be about an inch or so apart Place the bulbs about halt au inch below the surface. FERTILISERS IN SMALL GARDENS. Amateur gardeners are often puzzled as to the amount of fertiliser needed for their small plots, becatise the usual directions give only the amount per acre. The following table shows (approximately) the proper proportions:— 1001b per acre equals lib for a plot 10 by 2001b per acre equals lib for a plot 10 x 3001b per acre equals lib for a plot 10 14ft. 4001b per acre equals lib for a Wot 10 x lift. oOOlb per acre equals lib for a plot 10 i on. PRESERVING BEAKS FOR ■WINTER TTSE. In most gardens at this time of the year there is an excess of Beans, and as it is necessary to keep them gathered if the plants are to keep on croppiof, some method of utilising the surplus for winter use may b* valuable to many people. The Beans should be picked young, washed, stringed, and sliced", as if for cooking. Then put them into a large jar or keg, and cover them over with plenty of dry salt; that is a layer of beans and a layer of salt- Use plent"' of salt and put on a lid to keep out tha dust. As the beans are gathered, fresh layers can be added; there is no need to fill the jar or keg straight away. The beans can be put in whole instead of cutting and stringing them. To cook theni, take out what is required some hours before they are needed, wash, drain and then put them in water for a time. Place them in a saucepan with fresh water, bring to the boil, strain them, and now proceed to cook them as ordinary fresh beans. Treated thus the;.' can be kept for months, and will be quiU equal to fresh-picked beans when cooke , .'. THE BELLADONNA LILY. This autumnal flowering bulb will soon be sending up its fiowere, and if you intend to lift and divide old clumps or 'purchase new bulbs you should see about it at once. The bulbs make long, thick, fleshy roots and the less the c are broken "the better. The bulbs do not require moving often—onca every four years is quite often enough—and the" will go even longer. The bulbs shoul.l jnot be planted deeply; the crown of the bulb should be just below the ground. Well drained land is essential, tbut they will do in poor soil in a hot, dry .position and .also in half shade.