FANCY POINTS AND PRACTICAL TYPES.

Auckland Star, Volume LIV, Issue 293, 8 December 1923, Page 20

FANCY POINTS AND PRACTICAL TYPES.

It is frequently alleged that large numbers . of breeders have spent many yearß in breeding for fancy points which have little or no commercial value, when they should have been developing and fixing more practical and useful types. The indictment cannot be altogether set aside, but is must 'be remembered that the competition that is not absent even among live stock breeders leads to extremes. Mistakes follow, and presumably it is by this means that breeders learn _ow to proceed rationally towards practical goals. It is also to i be noted that most breeders who have made mistakes have seen the error of their way, and are changing their course. A widespread, resolute effort is being made to replace fancy points with solid virtues of practical utility. The fanciers and idealistic experimenters have had their day in the breeding of live stock. On the whole, they have done more good than harm. They are being succeeded by men whose prime object is to change and improve breeds and types with special reference to the market demands and the uses of ultimate consumers. • There probably never has been, so general, mariced and critical an interest as there is to-day in the alteration of animal types. It is a live s_bject of discussion at breeders' meetings. It will be studied and argued at the shows this year. We believe, however, that our modern time breeders have espoused better and more efficient types as the objective to which they are devoting themselves with zeal and intelligence. As a result of popular agitation on the subject, there is sure to grow a 'demand for changes in or additions to the classifications for breeding stock at I the shows, at which, as conducted in the past it m»-r bo almost sr""*" 1

more importance has been attached to breed types than to utility types. Between the two there may be differences which have serious economic implications. What are they? How may they be identified and harmonised? It is the function of shows to aid breeders in answering these and related questions. Certain animal types are alleged to be inefficient. If they are, breeders are entitled to the co-operation of the shows in their effort to obtain the neces- ,- sary facts of the case. If type differences are numerous within a breed or a class of animals, the exhibitions should make an educational feature of that fact, with a view to educating and stimulating breeders to take organised action to unify or standardise types. The shows will do their part if-breeders will do theirs. JOTTINGS BY THE WAT. To destroy lice on pige dissolve loz of soft soap in seven pints of boiling water and stir in 15oze of paraffin. Of this concentrated or stock solution use one part to nine parts of warm water, washing the pigs freely with it, and exercising until dry. It should be repeated in a week, as a few Bits may not have been sterilised, although all lice will have been killed. In the germination of seeds it is necessary to have air, moisture, and heat. Thus, a water-logged soil into which sufficient air does not penetrate is unsuitable for germination, at is dry sand with sufficient air but no moisture. When air, moisture, and a suitable temperature are present, as in seedtesting between sheets of blotting-paper, or when corn stands in shooks in wet, muggy weather, germination takes place, but a supply of plant food such as to be found in the soil is necessary for the growth and nVvploprnpnt of the

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

MAUXGANCI (Tauranzal, asks the following questions:—(l) I have a climbing rose with plenty of buds, hut they seldom mature. The foliage Is healthy. (2) What is the best remedy for "fly" ou yoans cab-ago plants? I saw sorue time hack to use tar water. How do you mix it? (3) When is the best month to put in cabbage seed to get plants for earlyspring? Can they be sown outdoors, or should they be iv a cool frame with hesslan over? —(1) You can do nothing; there are several varieties of roses which are subject to "balling," that is, the flowers refuse to open properly. The best thing is to cut It out and grow another variety. (2) Tar water Is made by boiling a pint of coal or gas tar in a gallon of water. When dissolved, let It stand, ■nd use one part of the liquor to live parts water. Spray It on the plants. (3) Sow outdoors in February or March; there is no need of a frame. T.TJ. (slount Eden) sends some specimens of weeds, and asks if there is any means of control otherwise than by hand-pick-ing. Also a sample of soil V— The weeds l sent are: No. 1, Sorrel. No. 2, Buffalo grass. Continuous cultivation, hoeing, I and digging are the only means of control. Both are weeds whica are not easily got rid of once they get a good hold. The soil is volcanic, and would suit vegetables an. flowers well. SWEET PEAS (Cambridge) asks: (1) How can Wisterias be pro_a_ated? ("2) I put scrapings from fowlhouse around sweet peas; they all withered and died. Can you tell mc the reason why?—(l) Wisterias can be propagated from cuttings put in during autumn. Make the cuttings from the current year's wood, and about nine inches long. Insert them In firm ground iv a sheltered position. (2) The cause of the Sweet Peas going yellow was ■ the fowl droppings. Never use fowl manure on Sweet Peas; it is of little use to them, but is harmful, almost a poison. When using fowl manure scatter it very thinly; it is a very stron/ nitrogenous manure. BORDERS (Mount Albert) writes: I have a long length of border about twelve inches wide between the path and the lawu. I would like to Know of a suitable plant that would look well throughout the year, but would not'grow too high or spread either over the lawns or paths. I want some permanent plant.—There are few plants that will do without any attention but amongst dwarf flowering plants there are: Echeveria or Houseleek, Polyanthus, Primroses and Double Daisy. Of dwarf growing shrubs that could be kept about a foot high by clipping, are: Santolina cbamaeeyparlssus, a plant with silver-grey foliage. Laven.ula vera, the common English lavender would also do. Veronica buxifolia. V. Colensoi, V. Epacridea, are all dwarf varieties of the native Koromiko, and would be very suitable for the purpose. W.C.U. (Birkenhead) writes: (t) Most of my Lawsonianas have slowly turned yellow and died out. I am anxious to discover the cause, and wondered if the trowel full of bonedust I gave each plant would be beneficial or otherwise. (-) Would four inches of soil over clay give a satisfactory tennis court, 6r would it be advisable to procure more soil?—(1) I should think it must be the bonedust, whicl was not properly mixed with the soil. You would do better to plant without manure and give the bonedust as a surface dressing after the plants are , growing. (2) Four inches of soil would be j sufficient to make a good surface. j H.W. (Bay of Islands) asks when to sow ; Pansy seeds to have them in full bloom near "the end of November?— March would ■ be the best nmniii to sow the seed. The plan*" s'ini.:! :',:•-. I • i al. for plnntin. r>m dining July or August, and if V-r>-

growing should be in full bloom about November. HEDGE (Whangarel) writes: We have an Escallonla hedge planted fifteen mouths ago. It has grown well and is throwing out long shoots in all directions. Would you kindly advise if it should be clipped now or later?— Cut the hedge now and again after the New Year. Cutting causes the bedge to thicken by forcing lateral growth. AMATETJB (Auckland) writes: (1) Why do Calla Lilies go pale? Can I do anything to restore their colour? (2) I have a young Pear tree, it was a mass of flowers, but only one has set. Is it the blight? (3) What can I do for the woolly scale that are just coming on to my Pißsion Fruit?—(l) I have not noticed that Calla Lilies go pale except when they are going off, when they become quite green. I cannot advise without further knowledge. (2) I cannot be certain if it is disease or not without an examination, but I should say it is not from your description. Pear trees are "bad setters" in a young stage. (31 Spray with black leaf, .0. G *£; <°bakune) writes: (I) I have some Black Currant trees three years old which were covered with bloom, but no fruit formed. I covered them from chance frosts. This is the third season that the same thing has happened. Are they worth keeping? (_) I have a Koromiko hedge, it is growing high and scraggy. Do you think trimming would kill it'll) Black Currants like a rather damp aud partly shaded position. Yours appear to be -growing weli and perhaps the position does not suit them. Give them another season, and if they fail as ? ln ,1 s , houl n advise you to cut them out. (2) I should certainly advise you to trim the hedge. TJ L P "F£ P "\ ' Bks the '°"°wing questions: (1) A Fig tree, eight years old. healthy, has plenty of fruit on but they drop off when about three-parts grown. I think the tree gets plenty of moisture. On two occasions it has been heavily pruned. (2i Apple trees have a lot of woolly aphis, although sprayed in tho v_ter with red ?■]!" m_ ls one ■P'ayuw sufficient ? J?_, T J' eT a s e , alß ° affected with a little .rown beetle. I am spraying with arsenate of lead. Will that be of any use?—a) Seeing the tree is he_thy and growing well I should think that it is too vigorous to set fruit. Do not prune. Let the tree go .or a few years: it may cause it to fruit. The only other means is to restrict the roots by cutting some of the thickest of them. (2) Spray two or three times, using as much force as possible, or use an old stiff paint brush and paint the colonies with red oil. (3) The trouble is the bronze beetle. Arsenate of lead will do the work all right.

Uf THE FLOWER GARDEN. For present planting, Scarlet Salvia Bonfire is one of the best and showiest of late summer and autumn flowering plants. When arranged in separate beds or in a row alongside a path it presents a blaze of colour. Place the plants about 12 inches apart. Petunias, too, are exceedingly showy, free blooming plants for separate beds or for massing. Arrange them about 12 inches apart, as they spread out and are of bushy habits. Phlox Drummondii Grandiflora are indispensable dwarfgrowing, profuse-flowering annuals that last from early summer until early winter. They show to best advantage <in groups in the mixed border, or in j separate beds. Plant eight inches apart. i Dwarf French Marigolds, too, are ; equally floriferous and lasting. Arrange | plants eight to ten inches apart. Room should be provided for Cosmoea, as i they are distinct and make such a pro- ! fusion of flower in the autumn. Complete the planting of all varieties of Chrysanthemums and pinch the tops : out of those previously planted that are eight or nine inches high. Proceed with the planting of Dahlias. Perfect I order and neatness should be observed in all departments of the garden at this season. The various borders and ' beds should have their surfaces hoed ■ and raked over. Gras3 edges should ibe neatly trimmed. Lawns and other ' grass plots should be kept closely 1 clipped. jIN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Attend to the earthing up of Peas, Beans, Potatoes, Cabbage and ■ other I plants, also the thinning out of all! (seedling crops as soon as they are | well above ground. From this time onI wards there will be an increased demand [for salads. Up to the present, Lettuces (have done well, but as the heat in- ' creases greater difficulty •is experienced I in producing crisp well-grown plants. These are moisture loving plants and at this time of the' year require a, deeply worked, well manured soil. Lettuces do well in a partly shaded' position during hot weather. HARICOT BEANS. Many people are very fond of these 'beans, in a dried form, for winter use, and they are without doubt a valuable article of food. They can be grown quite easily anywhere that the ordinary Dwarf or Runner Bean succeeds. "* The enormous pod-bearing capabilities of a single plant will be realised if a piece of well-manured ground is given up to the plants, and each one is allowed a! clear foot of space. The ' pods are j allowed to ripen, and the beans then shelled out and stored for use. The Haricot Bean is only a white seeded variety of the Dwarf Bean, which is grown for the beans only. The seed of any Dwarf Bean can be used in the same way if the colour is not objected to. They can be sown in the ground occu- ; pied by early Potatoes. Sown any time j before the end of January the crop -will ripen. Sow the seed in drills 18 inches apart and place the seed about nine inches apart in the drills. TOMATOES. Early planted tomatoes are now growing rapidly and will need attention in (removing surplus growths and tying the imam stem to its support. If orrown on the single stem system, which is dei eidedly the best method of culture, the | plants need not be planted more than eighteen to twenty-four inches apart, ; hut the rows should be at least three I feet apart. At this distance it allows for ( the fruit to be fully exposed to the sun (and greater facilities for spraying, cultivation and attention. If_not planted in too rich a soil the bunches of fruit should jform at short distances apart, the whole ; length of the stem and if the stopping |of the side laterals is kept under control (almost every blossom should set fruit. .Precautions against disease Should be taken by spraying the plants with Bordeaux or lime-sulphur. BORDEAUX FOR TOMATOES. Dissolve one ounce of sulphate of copper in a large breakfast cup of watei. Then dissolve an ounce and a quarter of washing soda in a gallon of water. Then pour the sulphate of copper solution into the soda solution, stirring the mixture briskly with a stick. Always use a stick for the stirring, never iron or metal spoons. It is then ready for use. Larger proportions may be made in the same manner. HOEING. Now that the hot days are upon us the gardener must pay particular attenI tion to cultivation so as to conserve as |much soil moisture as possible. If the j hoe is kept going, and a fine tilth maintained, plants of all kinds will thrive j for a long time without rain. Cultivation ,not only conserves moisture, but it j liberates plant food and assists I >eterial action in the soil, without which healthy growth is impossible. Nothing is more injurious to plants than a hard baked surface soil, and if once the soil is allowed to become baked it is very difficult to reduce it to a fine tilth again. "WATERING PLANTS. Young plants in some cases require • watering, but this should not 'merely consist of dribbling small quantities , from a watering can or even from a ; ho8e; it slould mean a good soaking where the soil is dry and should be followed with the hoe. It is a mistake to water if the plants are vigorous, as watering lowers the temperature of the soil; the heat of the sun, which should be increasing the temperature of the soil, is wasted in the evaporation of the moisture.

. PLANTING SEEDIJIf GS. In planting out seedlings it is a. _. ol i idea to make the holes a fair size 3 fill them with water before pi__C If this is done, and another waterint after the seedlings are planted, there will ibe little check to growth, and practically no failures. In all cases the _ed___ should be handled very tenderly, ___ _T much soil retained on the roots' as .„ sible. Numbers of seedlings purchased are spoilt by rough handling, »__ by being kept wrapped up too long. LEEKS. Leeks are very hardy and in season dunng the winter months, _erefor. _ few should be planted in every garden Leeks are a gross feeding pl__t ___ require a well worked and manured so_ There are several ways to plant leek, and as a rule they are either planted in' trenches and earthed up, si_ili_ r to Celery planted on the flat and soil drawn up to them, or holes about nine inches deep are made with a stick or dibbler and the plants dropped in so that only the tips of the leaves are shown* All methods supply satisfactory eropa. but if stems are required for exhibition' it is necessary to grow ia trenches This' entails more work but with attention the results are magnificent. For ordinary uses, however, the method of plantine ii deep holes give good results, as generillv nine inches of blanched stem is Sufficient It is a good plan to plant between rows' of Potatoes, as the soil is usually well worked and manured, and when the Potatoes are dug the soil can be used for earthing up Leeks. Leeks need plenty of moisture and should receive frequent doses of liquid manure. When earthing up, be careful not to let soil get a_on<_ the leaves. s

THE COD_IN MOTH.

It is <|if_c.uJt to say how many generations of moths are produced durin* the summer, but probably not fewer "than three, and perhaps more during a ho* dry summer. The first appears about the tune the apple comes into flower, and the first spraying should be <nven as soon as the petals fall. This is often a conundrum with many people, because a tree will continue for some time in flower, and the first blooms will have dropped their petals when others are just opening. In such cases one can only say, spray as soon as the bulk tf the flowers have dropped. A few may be spoiled, but a crop will be saved. Anyway, if the moth is -very prevalent, it is a ease of spraying and a fair crop of good fruit, or no spraying and a 'good iot of moth and little or no good fruit Arsenate of lead is a virulent poison. therefore take care in the handling or it and cleanse all vessels after uainri. Arsenate of lead does not-dissolve with water, but mixes and is held in suspension, therefore, when mixing and while spraying, keep the mixture well agitated so that an even distribution is obtained. The idea is to get one drop in centra of each flower or what will be the eye < f the a-;ple. If the moth pets here and the little green leaves close over it (they do in many varieties of apples before the spraying is done), then it is almost impossible to save them. Therefore give another spraying sixteen or seventeen days later, and if wet intervenes give another sixteen or seventeen days later, in fact, this third spraying is very good in any ease. After this give a spraying every four weeks till the middle or eni of January. The spray should be put on in the finest form of mist that is possible. Spray applied in such a form that it drops otf or runs down the stem is of no use. The only benefit received is from that left, therefore give a fine mist-like even spraying and remember to see that each cluster of fruit receives its share, no matter what position it is in. The moth • attacks Pears, and the trees should be treated in a simil - manner. Arsenate of lead should he mixed with water at the rate of IMb to 50 gallons of water or spraying mixture.