AN ELIZABETHIAN DINNER.

Auckland Star, Volume LI, Issue 27, 31 January 1920, Page 17

AN ELIZABETHIAN DINNER.

HOW HER MAJESTY WAS ENTERTAINED EXPENSIVE HONOUR FOB TTETt HOST. it was on the fifteenth of August in the year 15D9 that her Majesty's Grace, Elizabeth, gave Sir Francis Carew, of Beddington Park, in Surrey, the honour —and expense—of dining -with him. In the Privy Chamber prepared for the Queen's personal use were spread out the gifts which she expected from her hosts, amongst them a fine pair of virginals, a gown of cloth of gold, a fcia.-k network mantle, a fan garnished with diamonds, together with a white tafTeta hat with a jewel set therein. But Elizabeth on her arrival scarcely waited to look at these things, or to iisicn to "the fine speech "which Carow had prepared to "welcome her. "Enough talk, Sir Franky!" she exclaimed, in her harsh voice. Til bear yon better on a full stomach—so let us to tabled It was three of the clock when her Majesty entered the dininfr-ehamfoer, wixh her mincing etep. -A. huge, unwieldy farthingale of emerald-green and lemon-colonr billowed around her; pearls adorned her stomacher, her michty ruff and her frizzled scarlet wig. from beneath which the painted hawkface, with fierce, intrepid eyes, flouted the approach of her eeventieth. rear. The dinner-table was furnishea in the very newest fashion, with glass goblets of exquisite Venetian workmanship. Ornaments of the same fairy-like glass, in the shape of ships and winged monsters, further adorned the table, and at intervals were gold dishes piled high with splendid fruit, from the gardens of the host, one of the greatest horticulturists of that a£e. By the place of each guest "was set one of the new-fangled forks —a fashion lately imported from Italy. In this case "they were of silver-gilt and agate, so beautiful that the Queen signified her approval by pocketing one of them at the conclusion of the meal. But we are still only at the beginning, before the first course was carried in by two stout serving-men, whilst others laid great hunches of Tnancheat, or white wheaten bread, 'by each place. It was a vast sturgeon, this first course, kept fresh in "Gallis eand" for the occasion. Its yellow, rank-flavoured flesh was much to the Queen's liking, out there were others who preferred the mighty Warden Pie of cod-fish and cheese, flavoured with garlic, or the gurnets soused in oil, or the salmon calves from Wye. To the fish succeeded a course of birds. headed by a roast goose, with sauce of Burgundy, well known as one of the Queen's favourite dishes. There were pigeons, too, boiled in rice and cream, with mace and sugar, after the recipe of -Sir Hush Platt. in his book, entitled "Lady's Delighte." Cocks seethed in Rhenish wine were accompanied by parsnip cakes—but for the most part there were no vegetables, the meat being eaten with bread only. The Queen sat at the same table with the chiefest of her suite and their host. Phe ate with a big, mannish appetite, emphasising her approval of this dish or that with a good, mouth-filling oath —for the spacious <lays of Elizabeth were in no way squeamish. Since the Queen was known to prefer boiled to roast meat, it was in this fashion that the sirloin was served, and even the haunch of venison was so treated. But The chief novelty amongst the joints was a leg of mutton dressed after the Trench fashion—and a very strange fash, ion it was. First of all, the flesh was cut to the bone, and drawn off at the "butt-end" so carefully as to leave the skin perfectly whole. Tlie mutton was then minced and mixed with bread-crumbs, cream, and various herbs and spices beforu being put back into the skin of the leg. so that it appeared quite uncut and intact. "By God's body!" swore the Queen, heartily, Til play you at dice for that cook of yours. Sir Franky!" A breathing-space followed the joints, filled only with a serious of "little dainty kickshaws" such as " Leach," a kind of blancmange made of almonds and milk, calves-foot jelly, flavoured with musk, both being shaped in moulds of a newly invented waxen compound into the forms of rabbits, woodcocks, and other animals. But these were only precursors to ttie sweete proper—a very important part of the dinner in these Elizabethan days, when men—and women—did not, by smoking, spoil their appetite for dessert. So there were prunes, stewed in white ■wine, marchpane and orangeade pie, quidi'ni of quinces, borage and visketells, with sugar-plate, a favourite form of confectionery, coloured either ■with violets, marigolds, hugloss, or primroses, and holding, so Sir Hugh Platt tell? us, "all the scent and sweetness of the verve flour." So by slow degrees, through the hot afternoon, the long dinner drew to its close, and the Queen's sallow cheeks grew darkly red. She" had almost reached the pomt of repletion when Sir Francis, rising, bowed low before her. "Will it please your Majesty's Grace to partake of a dish of cherries, freshly plucked, in my summer-arbour?" he asked. ■ Tis the fruit T dote most on, Elizabeth answered. "But cherries in August! Zounds!—are ye a miracle-monger, Sir Frank ;" Still marvelling, the Queen suffered Sir Francis to lead her through the beautiful wardens, where orange-trees, the first in" all Europe, grew from the seeds which Sir Walter Raleiah had brought to his friend. Presently they reached a splendid cherry-tree, loaded with irmt at the exact pitch of perfect ripeness. It was a crop which had been retarded azainst this very day by the subtle skill of the ho-t, who had strained ,a tent or cover of canvas over the whole tree, keepin" it moistened with a scoop or ho?e. so that the cherries grew to an unusual size. After the Queen had viewed this wonder Sir Francis led her to a summerhouse, upon the top of which was painted the -Defeat of the Spanish Armada.' Her -ild eyes brightened again at the memor.- of that jsreat victory, but soon. sitting there in file breathless heat, the wrinkled lids drooped. Her hands ceased to move bacK and forth to the dish of cherries beside her, and Elizabeth. Queen of England, slept her after-dinner sleep—whilst Sir Francis pondered by what means he might best raise the five thousand pounds odd which that day's entertainment had cost him.—Violet il. ilethley, in the "Westp]:- ---"- Gazette."