FASHION NOTES.-

Auckland Star, Volume L, Issue 254, 25 October 1919, Page 20

FASHION NOTES.-

(By AN EXPERT.)

, PARIS, July 20I 'have just returned from "a week-end visit to Dauville (writes our lady correspondent), and it as the most brilliant season for many years past. Even before the war such beautiful clothes and ' dazzling jewels were not so much in cvi- , dence, and as for money—it flows like 1 water. No price seems too big to ask, 1 and, strange to say, it is forthcoming. ••One sees many brides at Dauville, for • truly Paris was a city of brides this 1 spring, and after the new collection had . been exhibited the ateliers of most ot ; the prominent dressmaking bouses were I kept busy making up trousseaux, and . quite a few novelties were created for I

• the close-fitting corselet bodice, though i the figure is natural, and does not gi ve the effect of being tightlyoorseted. Perhaps though this is an indication of the way fashions will work out in the autumn. • I From observations at Dauville, where so many smart women are at present collected, I saw no sign of any drastic changes. Personally I do not think it probable that there will be any startling change in form. Parisiennes are by no means tired of their present silhouette, and the artists who have now returned for good from their military duties to civil life are delighted with its simplicity, so that it has every -prospect of living for this summer at all events. At Dauville, on the promenades, at the Casino, and elsewhere short skirts, vague outlines of bodice, short sleeves, open necklines— all these features were noticeable in the charming gown 6 seen, and continue to characterise the moods. I noticed many flower-petal frocks made of delicate fabrics or of such heavier materials as satin, but always cut in petals, and usually in brilliant colours. Frocks, indeed, seem to have blossomed into flowers, and it is a pretty fancy that allows us the charms of many different flowera. It may be the supple elongated petals of shaggy chrysanthemums or of poppies that these frocks suggest by their form, or a full-blown rose by the soft draperies unfolding about the waist. They are without lining, so as to follow the lines of the figure without any suggestion of stiffness and give the body absolute freedom, and they are novel in that they enwrap rather than clothe. The time when a woman was never without a dozen chemise blouses tucked away in her wardrobe is not long passed. These articles were indispensable to the tailored costume. Then the mode changed, the lingerie blouse was replaced by the oorsage of the chemise frock showing beneath the long coats matching the costume- But now the tailored costume is no longer in disTepute ; it returned this season. Uniirrpeacha/bly correct, it gives a woman that alluring : trimness which is joyfully received after ' the caprices of elaborate elegance. And it is even whispered in the ear that it will be the man's tailor who will be given • preference in the execution of the

tailored suit next autumn; it is possible. How could blouses fail to take on new life with this occurrence? They come in dozens, hastening into our wardrobes prepared to accompany our summer and autumn costumes, they have a charming modernism, and they brighten the sombre blue of serge or tbe monotony of khaki shantung, like bouquets of different flowers. There are white blouses, too, but they are such as are inspired by the blouses of "Van Dyck, or by those of tbe peasants- in the i country districts of France. And with ! almost all these blouses is worn a large black knotted cravate. Some of these blouses are embroidered with sensational ( originality—a series that makes one ! wonder what this new order will lead to. Veritable tone-scales, delicate or vivid according to the type of the wearer will achieve effects not thitherto seen.in snarp contrast to the wbite blouse that was of an invariant monotony. OUR SKETCH. The suit has come to its own again, and is of many types, though the practical tailored model—such a one as is illustrated on this page—is most popular. The coat of this model is of three-

quarter length, and has well-cut tailored ■ rever's and cuffs, and panels inserted at the centTe-fronts in lieu of pockets. The ceinture is of the material, and the narrow skirt buttons at the centre-back, j - Stitchery forms the sole trimming.. |

The new designs for children's frockare artistic, and the following is original in design and original in colouring. It is made in Egyptian blue shantung, and white shantung with blue spots rimmed in orange are used for the dress, while] the shady hat is trimmed with a scarf made of the spotted shantung, and could easily be copied.