Practical Gardening.

Auckland Star, Volume L, Issue 52, 1 March 1919, Page 20

Practical Gardening.

By DIANTHUS.

Correspondents trill greatly oblige by observing the foltmoing rules in sending questions for publication in these columns: — t. Letters should lie addressed Garden Editor "Star" Office Auckland 2. Write one one side of the paper, and make all communications as concise as possible .'.' Flowers, etc., sent for naming must be sent separately and, if possible, packed in a tin or wooden box — cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in transit and the contents damaged. '/. The full name and address of the sender mast always be stmt, but a norn dc plume or initial may he given for publication. *w*~*www*w*w*w**- _"*-_*___^"_*-*-3_.-_-**^ . THE WEEK'S WORK. . * # * *. * * % THE FLOWER GARDEN. % . * :°: Insert cuttings of Pelargoniums, Verbenas, _a_anias, Pentstomons. :»; '-j : Prepare the Carnation beds, and plant out the layers as soon as possible. . '■i- Sow Cyclamen seed and pot up any growing plants. Old conns should be * T started again. "j* 5 Transplant madonna Lilies where necessary. $ "jg Remove runners from Violets, and if the plants are attacked with Red T .j. Spider, spray with Lime Sulphur. T reed Chrysanthemums as soon as the buds are secured. "-L ;i ; Disbud and thin inside shoots of Dahlias. -. Lift, divide, and re-plant bulbs as soon as possible now. $ * Pot up a batch of Freesias. -Jf. * Plant bulbs in Moss Fibre for early greenhouse and indoor decoration. 4= -'" sje . THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. * :|! Sow a little Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, Radish, and Turnip _cd. . 'j*. Lift Potatoes, pick out any required for seed purposes at or.co. t£ Keen Beans, both Runner and Dwarf, closely pjoked. The plant* will do * sjs with a good soaking of water. J * Spray Tomatoes with Arsenate of Lead to control caterpillar. if. * Should mildew appear on Vegetable Marrow or Pumpkin foliage spray with * * Limo Sulphur. * * Pick up all fallen fruit, and either boll, burn, or deeply bury. Do not let * t it lie about to distribute fungus spores. * T Summer pruning should be done at once. Thin out the inside wood; do _\ J not shorten the main leaders. T jj. Keep the hoe going in every part of the garden: It ia the most imnortant _ :). tool just now. X

TO COEKESPONDENTS. J.H. (Ponsonhy) wishes to know when to cut down some . rimson RanSblers which are too high. (2i How to grow .African marigolds. 4,1) Cut out some of the old thick wood in the Crimson Rambler, and shorten the other to the height you require it; this sliould be done at once. (2) African marigolds will not stand excessive wet or cold. A rich, well-drained soli in a hot sunny position will suit them. The soil cannot be too rich, or tbe positiou too sunny or hot. FERN (Mount Eden) sends some fronds of an asparagus fern, and wishes to know •what lo do for it. Once a week lt is watered with -washing water, and it is under cover. It is impossible to tell exactly what Is wrong with the plant. There is the appearance of the work of an insect on the fronds, although nothing •was present. Spray with warm, soapy water, or If you have no spray pump or syringe lay the plant on its side on a ■bench or table, and pour the warm soapy water over the foliage. I should advise you not to water the plants with washing water ofteuer than once a fortnight, aud do not keep the plant too wet; it likes a moist but not a saturated soil. If the ■plant is pot _ouuil it will need re-pottlng. Iml unless it needs it very much it would be besi to leave it till next spring. DISADVANTAGES OF RAISED FLOWER BEDS. A walk around the small gardens shows numerous instances of plants suffering from want of water through the soil ul" the beds in which they are planted being raise,! so much above the surroumkin;- ground. This is a common ''rror, and many plants tind it difficult to exist under these conditions. Many flower bed. are heaped up like graves, and graves they often prove to many of the plants. When watering the water i th_Jh_ .° .* anrt the result "f *-*••*•* w thought to be a good soaking i.- ; simP a damping of an inch deep, .he re st ran tin. it may be all .:_-■_- \ 11 i* i 4.1 -* n _."t to raise a ,' h. win." P,alltS thilt ••<"'- t_ »t.i.-u Ju- «mter, or are growing in a lo_.l-.ing !.us,.„,n. inmost e asea , h ... r the ,„ s should be made only two or three inches abovs the ground level and the surface should be nearly if not quite level.

THE DEPTH TO PLANT BULBS. The depth of planting bulbs varies, and it is not advisable to plant all of them the same depth. How far depth of planting affects the flowering of bulbs it is hard to say, but often if a bulb is buried a foot deep it will come through the ground and flower well. A great deal no doubt depends upon the texture of the soil, and the vigour of the bulb, but as a general rule, the lighter the soil the deeper the bulbs should be planted. The best and safest general rule is to plant a bulb as deep as it is high; that is, if two bulbs were placed on top of one another, and the tip of the uppermost is level with the ground, the

lower bulb would be at its right depth, iv all cases it is advisable to be rather deeper than too shallow. In planting small bulbs they should be at least two inches below the ground, whilst large ones may be 4 or even (i inches below tbe ground. The distance apart should be equal to the average diameter of the bulb, or the same distance between the Ibulbs as they are deep.

LAYERING ROSES.

This method of propagating is reliable, though rather slow. It Is adopted in nurseries with the less important kinds, such as Moss Roses, Hybrid Chinese, Gallicus, etc. A plant from a layer is of course on its own roots, and such are very desirable when it is possible to obtain them, for every growth that develops is of the true rose; there can be no question of sucker growths from the stock as in the case of budded roses. I think it was Dean Hole who once related how someone took him to Bee a lino plant of Marochal Kiel growing on a wall and to ask his opinion as to why it did not bloom. As soon as Dean Hole saw the plant he said at once that it

was not Marechal _iel at all. but simply the "stock" upon which it was budded. _ow such a thing could not happen from a "layered" plant or from one raised from a cutting. Layering is best done from January to March, lt will be seen from the illustration that only plants with growths close to the ground can be layered conveniently. The illustration shows a plant prepared for layering. One shoot is already layered; the other two have been denuded of their lower leaves in preparation for layering. The ground about the plant to be layered should be well forked, and a liberal PLANTING DAFFODILS IN •CLUMPS. When planting daffodils in clumpe plant the bulbs alternately and in circles as shown by the illustration. If the soil is taken out with tho Bpade the size of | the clump and the right depth, the bulbs can be 6tood on the soil and then covered

quantity of gritty soil admixed. A trowel is necessary. This is a flat, wedge-shaped piece of iron. A sharp knife and some pegs to secure the layers in position are also required. Take the [ in the left and hold the knife in I thl right hand. Cut the shoot close to j a bud. and on the lower side as marked I at A. Pass the knife upwards for about I 1? inches, and in the centre of the ! shoot. Place a little piece of matchwood in the cut part to keep it open; then take the trowel and drive it into the soil at a point to which the rose shoot, may be bent down conveniently. Work the trowel a little to each side to : widen the aperture, then press in the j shoot, previously giving it a slight twist,

with soil. This is much better tnan putting in with the dibbler or trowel, as the bulbs can 'be stood down properly and evenly, and there is no fear of one being deeper than the other.

and secure it in position about three inches below the surface. The part that is cut should, when twisted, protrude like a tongue, hence its name; and this tongue should point downward when buried in the soil, for it is here that the roots arc formed. TAKING OFF THE LAYERS. A little practice will soon enable the amateur to layer his own roses, and it is a capital plan by which to obtain an extra plant or two of any favoured rose. It is usually several months before the layers are well Tooted. Most will be ready for transplanting the following spring. SOWING CYCLAMEN. The present is a good time to sow cyclamen seeds. Make up a compost of eqiial parts of loam i not too heavy) and leaf-mould, with a little sand. Use pans or strong boxes about three inches deep, and drain well. After making the soil moderately firm and level, employ a

6mall dibbler to make holes about half an inch deep for the seeds. The holes should be made an inch apart each way, because by this method it will be unnecessary to disturb the seedlings till they have three or four leaves. By that time the little eorm will be or some size. NARCISSUS TRIANDRUS ALDUS. This is one of the mo6t charming bulbous plants for the rod. garden, lt has pale, milk-white flowers, and a pretty pendulous habit. They flower in .September, and it is difficult to imagine anything more lovely than a group ot these dainty flowers coming into bloom, i Jhe leaves of this narcissus are quite, grasslike. It does best when given the shelter of a rook from cold winds, and should be. planted in small colonies. Sandy loam with a little leaf-soil added suits it. The bulbs should ho planted as early as possible, and when practical by March. There are other varieties of N. triandrue which are equally pretty, and should be added to the collection.

PLANTING DAFFODILS. ! Transplanting or any division of the bulbs of de,ffodils is best practised during | tho months of January and February, although planting may be done during April and even later in the autumn. The majority of daffodils may be planted in the herbaceous border proper, in shrubbery borders, on grussy slopes, or in fact iv any place outdoors whore a fair depth of soil and a due share of light can be given them. If the position is one partially shaded from hot sunshine in spring, the flowers of some of the species retain their beauty for a much longer period than they would if exposed to all the light and sunshine possible It is a mistake, however, to plant daffodils in densely shaded places, especially where the roots of trees have possession of the soil and practically prevent the growth of tho daffodils, in gardens where light, friable loam abounds, daffodils are easily accommodated. In heavy, holding, and clayey soils it is advisable to add a good proportion of sharp grit, burnt earth, and thoroughly decayed leaf mould to render the soil as open and light as possible. The strong varieties do not object to heavy soils, provided they are well drained. As regards manure, the condition of the soil must determine its needs or otherwise. A rich fertile loam will grow narcissi perfectly, without manure | of any kind. On the other hand, a poor, hungry, or gravelly soil will be benefited by a dressing of cow manure, worked in three or four inches below the bulbs. The manure must be thoroughly decayed, whether for working into the soil or applying to the surface as a mulch. In the latter case it should not be applied more than one inch in thickness, and after planting the bulbs. The depth of planting means tho distance the crown is below the surface. A bulb of Empress is three inches or more in height, therefore, if planted by taking out the soil six inches in dcptli, its crown will be about three inches beneath the surface. It is the same relatively with all the different sizes of bulbs, they are planted so that their crowns will be covered with about the same depth of soil as the bulbs are in height. The distance between the bulbs should not be loss in any case than their diameter, and this will allow for about three years' standing without overcrowding. Three bulbs in a clunjp is the minimum number, oven for tho largest varieties, and five to seven for the smallest sorts. The early planting hero advocated I is practised by most specialists, and it is' one of the most important items in the cultural routine which loads them to success. Very late planting is to be deprecated strongly, as in winter tho ground I is often excessively wet. REPAIRING LAWNS. Bare patches on tho lawn should now be j scratched up, and seeds sown thickly jMipon tiiem as soon as the weather is j suita_le. A lipht covering- of rich, sifted I soil, and watering occasionally during dry weather, is all that is neccssarv to

insure the seed germinating. Roll the patches after the soil has been duiy spread over the 6eed. The illustration shows how to 6tretch black cotton across tbe newly-sown patch to protect from birds.

' PROPAGATING SHRUBS BT CUTTINGS. Many popular shrdubs are readily propagated by cuttings made of the half ripe growths found in abundance on the j bushes during February and early in March. A cold frame or handlight is all l that is required to root them. I have | seen a box with a large sheet ot glass | covering the top used _s a frame with very satisfactory renults. Comparatively small pots may be used, those 3i and 5 inches wide will suffice. Fill one-third of the pot with drainage, fill the remaining I space "with light sandy soil, press moderately firmly, and surface with a thin •layer of sand. Choose as cuttings growths of moderate thicknetes from 3 inches to 5 o.- 6 inches in length. If the cuttings can be removed from the parent bushes with a thin layer of old wood attached so as to form a heel, so much the hetter. Failing this, cut off the stem just below a leaf or pair ot leaves. This is called a node, and from the node roots as a rule push out more freely than from tlie bare parts of the stem. The top, immature portion of the shoot should be cut off down to where the stem is fairly firm. Make a hole with the dibbler, and as it is drawn out insert the cutting, allowing the sand to trickle in round the cutting, i and fill up the hole. 0 34-inch wide pot and fill up hole. A 3J-inch wide pot will hold five cuttings, and a 5-inch wide pot seven or eight cuttings. Just as an experiment fill several of the pots with sand, dispensing with the soil entirelyAs a rule the cuttings root quicker in sand, and are not so liable to damp, but there is one thing to remember, and that is the cuttings inserted in sand must be potted off as soon as they are rooted, there being no plant food in the sand. Having placed the pots of cuttings in the frame, water them through a fine rose- Shade the cuttings from the sun. Syringe occasionally. Keep the 60id moist. In from three to five weeks the cuttings wfll commence to push out roots, when air may be gradually admitted. A few popular and showy flowering shrubs which root readily from cuttings inserted in February are as follows:— Forsythia suspensa (Golden Bell), yellow, l'hiladelphus Lemoinel erectus (.lock Orange), white. Escallonia Langleyensis (Hybrid Escallonia), red. Escallonla philippiana (Valdlvian Escallonla), whiae. •Deutaia crenata {White Deutzia), white. j Diervllla Eva Rathke "(Hybrid Weigelas), i rosy purple. .tUervilla Abel Carrlere {iHyibrid Weigelas), red.isb purple. Fuchsia niacrostemma (Hardy Fuchsia), scarlet. Hydrangea arborescens grnndlflora (Sbrubbv I Hydrangea), creamy white. , Hypericum elatum (-St. Jobn's Wort). I yellow. Hypericum illenryl {Chinese St. John's Wort), yellow. Jverrla japoniia flore pleno (Double Jew's -Mallow), orange yellow. Prunus japonies flore pleno (tDoijble Chinese ■Cherry), <pir,k or white. Rihes sanguinea (Flowering Currant), deep Spiraea arguta (Shrubby Meadowsweet) white. F'piraea Anthony Watcrer (Shrubby Meadowsweet), red. Syrißga vulgaris varieties <Dmiblo and Single Lila-!). Mauve, white, etc. Veronica speclosa (Shrubby Speedwell) : purple, pink, et<\ Veronica Traversi (•Shrubby Speedwell) •white. Viburnum plicatum {Japanese Guelder Itose), white. Viburnum Opulus sterile <Snow_Ul Tree) .vhlte. Viburnum Tinns ('Laurustinus), white. onions. The ground should now- be got in readiness for the sowing of seeds of onion*, intended to stand the winter in the open. Select ground that is fully exposed to light and air on all sides because the plants will be all the more sturdy and likely to withstand the vicissitudes of the weather. Soot and wood ashes may be applied, but no animal manures. The ground must be well trodden later on before sowing.

KILLING WEEDS WITH PLANT poisons: Killing weeds by plant poisons and c afterwards growing crops on the same . land is a subject that seems to be of 1 much popular interest. There are but 1 few situations, however, where this _ method is feasible. In Australia, fields s containing prickly-pear have been sprayi ed with arsenate of soda solution, and T after the pear has been killed, the land 5 ploughed and planted to crops. Accordt ing to reports from specialists of the r United States Department of Agriculture . it has been found satisfactory to handle j honeysuckle under certain conditions by 3 sf raying the tops with ___ oil or erode j petroleum, and after the leaves are dead > and dry, setting fire to them. This re- (. moves all the tops and obviates the great y inconvenience encountered in cutting t them off or ploughing them under. Con- , siderable attention has also been given to applications for killing the vegetation ' and sterilising the soil. This method fi ' applicable to driveways, pathways, ten- , nis courts, railroad rights-of-way, etc. . i For several years experiments have ' i been made to find the best material, the I best strength of application, the best time 'of application,and other points. The list of materials used in the tests embraced ' practically all materials that had been ' suggested as being effective, and these " tests have shown that of many materials there are three which, at the prices as- ' signed, are better than the others, namely, arsenate of soda, salt and kero- - I!sene. ■ I Under certain conditions the consumer | may find the price of one of these sub- ■ stances relatively lower than the others. ; , The character of the vegetation also • j governs the choice; broad-leaved plants . i seem to be relatively more affected by ; arsenate of soda than by salt or oil., as i compared with narrow-leaved i tation, such as grass. Salt is often cb- • jectionable when used on brick walks '■ • or other conspicuous places on account • of the white residue which remains for , some time. As to the number of applications re- ; quired, it has been found that several i ( light applications are better than one (heavy one, which is partly due to the ;fact that weed seeds in the soil, which . [are but little affected by these treatments, germinate and produce a new |crop of weeds after the first crop is I killed. After the first year, however, | the number of applications may be reduced until weeds entirely cease to come i up. The quantity of these herbicides (to use depends on the character of the j-vegotation a nd the soil. On some of I the arsenate of soda plots where the i vegetation was largely broad-leaved 'plants the tops had been practicallykilled by a remarkably light application at a cost of one and a-half dollars per acre, but the effects were temporary and new tops sprang up. . I As an illustration of the quantity of j material required, a weedy tfriveway could be almost cleared by treatino- it | with any cue of the following nib(Stances the amounts being given on a ! basis of one square rod: One-fourth • pound of commercial arsenate of soda dissolved ,n 6 gallons af water; __ ! pounds of common, coarse salt dissolved k.4__ IODS ° f WatCr; ° r l ■*« ot In the experiments the resulte with common salt have been somewhat e__. tic, so that preference should be .riven the other two substance. HowevS_ ia small area is be treated, and the

cqs|. is therefore not a primary consideration, salt should be used in larger quantities than advised above, dissolving it at the rate of 1 pound to 1J quarts of water. "DAFFODILS IN POTS. It is only by early potting that the finest blooms can be obtained. It is not a question of desirability, but of necessity. Procure the bulbs and pot at the earliest possible moment. A wood fibrous loam is the best compost, with the addition of about one-third its bulk of old, well-rotted leaf-soil. Break the loam up with the fingers, so as to get all the fibre, or the soil will go close and hard. A very moderate amount ot coarse silver sand can be added if desired, and if .possible one and a-halt pound of bonemeal to each bushel ot soil. Perfectly clean pots should be used, with plenty of drainage, over I which it is an advantage to place a few lumps of charcoal, and the roughest parts of the compost. The bulbs should be just covered with soil, e.icept . the largest varieties, and of these the tops may protrude; but with the small bulbs of the miniature species, half an inch ot earth should cover them. Do not overfill the pots with soil; allow about halt an inch for watering purposes. After all are potted, water well through a fine rosed can, and plunge the pots either in old leaf mould, cocoanut fibre, or ashes, to a depth of at least two inches. As a rule no further watering will be required until they are lifted three months later, but if they are under a wall, or in such a position that they are very much sheltered, they should from time to time be examined to 6ee that they are moist. Do not leave them in the plunging bed longer than three months. Lift them all and let them stand either indoors, or in a cold greenhouse until they are wanted, if topgrowth has advanced two or three inches for a fortnight or so, do not expose them to the fullest light. CELERY. Much water is required at this season, and a good dose of liquid manure once a week will keep the plants growing vigorously. Where the celery fly m troublesome the foliage should be dusted occasionally with dry soot, to keep the flies from laying their eggs. Many of the leaves may be saved by pinching the grubs, in them, though it will often be necessary to remove the worst, and destroy them to reduce the pest.