TO CORRESPONDENTS

Auckland Star, Volume XLIX, Issue 57, 23 February 1918, Page 16

TO CORRESPONDENTS

PEARS,

W. 11.11. (Ml. l'ldcn).—The heads of cosmos and dahlius scut are damaged by a small caterpillar or grub, very prevalent just now. Remove and burn all you cau, aud spray the plants with arsenate of loadone ounce to two gallons of water. If the plants are ln Dower, the spray will spot them with white, but no other harm will be done. If you go over the plants and remove the damaged buds, yon will hud that the plants will grow away from the insects.

E.B. (Mt. Eden) writes: On several of my chrysanthemum buds formed some weeks ago, and the sfde shoots that you half to an Inch long, are now from six recommend to remove when they are to eight inches long. What are first aud second crown buds'; —The buds formed vu vonr plants are the first crown, ana should ue removed, especially as the laterals have grown so much, lf yon are growing for exhibition, these laterals must be reduced to tbe number of blooms you Intend your plants to carry. As soon as the next bud shows you must remove the laterals which will grow round it. This process ls "taking the bud." Do not remove all the laterals at once. Do It ln two or three operations; otherwise it gives the plants a cheek. Koine varieties do best on the "first crown," but as you have allowed yours to grow so far, you must take the "second, crown," which will be the next bud that shows. Tbe tnklng of tho (first or second crown buds regulates the flowering somewhat, but a "second crown" develops faster ilinii a "tirst crown"; consequently there Is not flic same difference of time lief ween the development of the fiowers as there Is between the production of the buds. The varieties you mention are all good, and there will not be any bona in your "taking" the "second crown."

WINTER LETTUCE.

There is not such a great demand for lettuce during the winter, but there is sufficient to warrant the growing of a few. Lettuces in winter stand so much longer in perfection that only one or two sowings are required. A sowing made now, and another next month, will produce sufficient to last the winter. Sow thinly in drills, and as soon as large enough transplant into some good soil, allowing the plants a little extra room than in 6timmer, say, about twelve inches.

During the next few weeks the pears will be ripening, and will require examination often. Once a variety of pears commences to ripen they all come in at once, and if not used soon commence to decay. In order that none shoudl be wasted it is as well to commence using them ns soon as possible, either by cooking, bottling or eating. Pears should be carefully handled, for, although when hard they may appear not to bruise easily, it is not so, and rough handling then means that decay will set in as soon as or before the fruit is ready. The pear is a fruit that needs to hang until thoroughly matured, and should not be picked until the pips are quite brown and the fruit parts easily from the tree. As soon, however, as tho fruit is ready it should be picked, for a heavy gale will play havoc with the fruit when ready. If picked before quite ready tlic pear lacks flavour, and is often gritty and tough, lacking that mellowness and lusciousness that characterises the general run of dessert pears.

SALAD ONIONS.

A sowing of onions to provide drawings for salad during the winter can be made now. Any variety of onion will do, although the usual variety used is White Spanish, the seed of which is cheap as a rule. Young onions in salad, to eat by themselves, for flavouring! omelettes, etc., are not equalled by the large bulbs. It is surprising how few people do use green onions for these purposes, and yet it is practically easy to have green onions the whole year round. There is no special preparation of the ground necessary. Bring the surface to a fine tilth is all that is necessary.

STRAWBERRIES.

Perhaps this crop is not grown as' often as it should be in the small garden. There are many drawbacks to the growing of small quantities of strawberries, the chief of which arc birds and children. However there are some people who do grow them, and it would be to the advantage of many more to take a little trouble and grow a few. It is no use attempting to grow strawberries in a poor or badly prepared soil. Tho strawberry is a deep rooting plant, and also requires plenty of manure. Now is the time to prepare the patch, and if it is only a small one trench the soil, in any case dig it as deep as possible. During the process of digging add a good dressing of lime, if the soil is at all deficient in it, and also five or six ounces of boncdust to the square yard, mixing both well with the soil as it is dug. If farmyard manure is available it can be placed in tho bottom of the trench; cow, pig, or horse manure are all useful for the strawberry. The strawberry like.-* fresh ground, in fact if the crop is to be satisfactory it should not be grown on the same ground for several years, the longer the bettor. Wood ashes are a very good manure for them, and a good sprinkling should bo given. It should be noted, however, that coal and coke ashes arc of no value, in fact, are positively harmful to some soils-

SCHIZANTHUS.

Tho Schizanthus, or Butterfly Flower, is one of the finest plants for greenhouse decoration in the spring. Many people consider it is the finest, at any rate a group of well-grown Schizanthus is a floral feast. The plants are easily grown, not having any out of the way fads or fancies. Seeds should be sown now in a light porous compost, pots, pans or boxes enn be used, and as the seed is small, a great quantity will not be required. They should* be grown hardy from the start, and given plenty of room, so that tho plants are not weakly. The seed will germinate quite well if the box or pan is covered with a piece of glass and shaded with a newspaper till the seedlings are through. The glass and shading must then be removed. As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle they must be transplanted into boxes. When a few inches high they should be potted. The best way is to grow three plants in a sixinch pot. Put in the drainage and fill the pot, making the soil Arm; then dibble the plants round the sides. The compost should be of a fairly light and open texture, as too much water is fatal, especially during tho winter. The plants should be grown as hardy as possible; to! protect from frost rather than to force by heat should be the aim. The Schizanthus is quite hardy about Auckland, and planto from seed sown during autumn can be planted out and will stand the winter, making fine largo plants in the spring. It is not ono of the best for outside work, for being somewhat brittle, it is easily broken by the wind, and the glory of the blooms are also spoilt by wet and moist conditions, but with protection from winds and ■wet weather it is a plant of th© first watgr. \

ANEMONES,

Anemones should he grown by everybody who wants flowers when they are scarce. They are easy to cultivate if the soil is fresh, but they do not like the same bed year after year. The soil that suits them best is one that has been well worked for some previous crop and has been deeply dug and well manured. The tubers should be planted about ten inches or a foot apart and about two inches below the soil. Unfortunately there is a kind of fungus that attacks them and turns the leaves a brownish yellow. This can be kept in check if the plants are sprayed with a fungicide as Roon as the leaves show up above groiuid and at intervals afterwards. If this rust is allowed to go on unchecked the whole bed of plants will be spoilt. Old time florists used to have some wonderful compositions for making up and putting in the soil before the tubere were planted, but it has been proved that good cultivation and manuring beforehand with anything that can be got succeeds just as well. To get the best results they should be gTown in beds by themselves in a nice sunny position that ia sheltered from heavy winds. If the flowers are picked as soon as they open, the plants will remain in bloom for a long time. Keep the eurvace soil well cultivated, and avoid walking on the bed if possible.

GROWING BULBS IN FIBRE.

Nowadays, it is quite possible, as experience has shown, for the veriest amateur in gardening, even town dwellers, to grow spring flowers to perfection in fancy bowls or pots at home without the help of a greenhouse. The use of soil is dispensed with, and in its stead we have a specially prepared fibre, which renders it possible to produce the finest flowers in ornamental vases and bowls, or even in jam pars. No drainage is required, as with flower pots, and the material is quite clean and pleasant to handle.

•When making a start it is best to procure the fibre from a reliable nurseryman, and preferably one who makes a speciality of growing bulbs in fibre. Tell him the number of bulbs you intend growing, and he will send the required quantity of fibre, which is very cheap. Charcoal and crushed shell, which are also necessary, are usually sent at the same time in correct proportions.

Before mixing the fibre and shell, water the former thoroughly and rub it through the hands to get rid of lumps. Enough water should be given to moisten the fibre thoroughly, but not so much as to make it sodden. Mix in the shell and proceed with the " potting" of the bulbs. It is advisable to place a quantity of charcoal at the bottom of each of the receptacles used or the fibre may become " sour " owing to their being no drainage. On this place sufficient of the mixture to allow of the bulbs being half an inch beneath the surface when potting is completed. A margin of half an inch should be left between the top of the compost and the rim of the vase or bowL

The bowls may be at once placed in cool, semi-dark though airy positions in the house, but avoid putting them near fires. During the first few weeks only sufficient water should be given to keep the, fibre slightly moist. When growth is started practically everything depends on watering. If once the fibre becomes thoroughly dry, if only for & short time, failure is likely to result. On the other hand, too much water is almost as bad owing to there being no means of getting rid of the surplus beyond tilting the bowls or vases on their sides. With care, however, both extremes can be avoided, -ifter leaf-growth appears ful exposure to light is necessary, and fresh air will do wonders in producing sturdy plants, but beware of cold draughts. Support the blossoms if necessary •with jthin sticks.

CUT FLOWERS.

At this season of the year, when there are plenty of flowers to choose from, and the daily demand for decorative purposes and to give away for various purposes is brisk, there is always a lot of indiscriminate cutting done, and the result is that the blooms do not always give the expected result. Much too often flowers are cut during the hottest part of the day, evaporation is at its highest, and even on the plants the blooms are more or less flaccid. To cut any flowers at that time means that the blooms will soon wither and droop, and probably not be of much value. The best time to cut ■ flowers is early morning, whilst wet- with dew and before the sun has any power. If not convenient or possible to cut early, then they should bo left till as late as possible in the evening. Early morning is the best time, however, after the flowers have had all night to recuperate. As soon as cut they should be stood in deep receptacles filled with clear water, not so that the blooms themselves are wetted, but so that three parts of the stems are in water. These should be stood in a cool, airy room or shed, and it will be found that flowers that have to be sent or carried any distance will be found to keep better and longer if allowed to stand for one or two hours in plenty of water, so that the blooms are able to have a thorough good drink. Some flowers keep much better than others, and many of the most attractive and useful in the garden are quite useless for cutting purposes. When planting always make sure that you aro adding a few varieties that have first-class qualities for cutting purposes. Fern fronds should also be cut some time before they are wanted, and stood in water, and if required to be carried any distance they should be laid in a tin box and the air kept from them.

THE CARE OF HERBS.

Many kinds of herbs are now Teaching their maximum growth, or are flowering or seeding, and, according to their kind, must be dealth wij|h if supplies are needed during the winter and early spring months ere new growth is again available. Yeare gone by housewives paid more attention to the use and preservation of herbs than is now the case, and it may be that the war, with its need for many economies, may bring about a larger interest in, and practice of, those pleasant duties once so popular, i.c., fruit bottling, the making of preserves and fruit jellies, cordials, wines, and liqueurs.

Sweet basil should be pulled up by the roots when full grown, tied in bunches, and hung to dry in a shed or room; like all other dried herbs, it should be kept from dust, and ac soon as dry should be placed in stout paper bags. The old-fashioned clary needs similar treatment, and where the flavouring of marigold is desired, the heads of this popular flower should be picked, dr—i in the sun, and then stored in tins or bottles for use as needed.

Another useful herb is sweet marjoram, and thiß, too, is best cut when fully grown, tied in bunches, dried, and then stored. Sage and mint may be dealt with similarly, and in many a modest home a, few pennyworths of these and other herbs, bought green, dried, and place in *__, glee, bottles, after the leaves have been robbed free from the stems, would supply the needs of the kitchen for te, long time. Parsley is decidedly best used freshi, but where it is a difficult matter to _. supply of fresh material in winter, the leaves may be dried briskly in the enn, or in an oven, and bottled.

Savory, ,both summer and winter kinds, tarragon, end plain and lemon thyme, all respond to the drying process, and axe as useful for flavouring w^? n *»«» dried, v when frwihly gathered. ,

SOWING SWEET PEAS

Opinions differ as to the time and method of sowing sweet peas, and where one can afford the time and money to experiment with it is all right to try new methods. There is no doubt that autumn sown sweet peas are a sure crop, and | the best time for sowing them is at the end of the present month or during March. If the ground is ready, as it should be, the best method is to sow the seed directly in the rows. If the ground has been newly trenched, well firm tbe ground by treading, afterwards loosening the surface. Draw out a trench about nine inches wide and three or four inches deep along where the row is to come. Sow the seeds singly about a foot or fifteen inches apart, either pushing them into the soil about a quarter of an inch, or covering with a quarter of an inch of soil. If the ground is moist the seeds will he up in a few days, and any that have missed can be re-sown. The trench will gradually fill in, but during the coming summer there will be a gutter which will be useful for watering, as it will be found to make matters much, easier. I! the plants are to be grown in clumps, make the centre basin-like and sow four peas about a foot apart. "Where the ground is not ready the peas can be sown in pots or boxes, in -which case either the small paper pots, sold by seedsmen, especially for sweet peas, should be used, one pea in each pot, or larger pots may be used and four or five peas sown in each, or boxes may be used, sowing the peas two or three inches apart. Any light fairL- sandy soil will do for filling the boxes or pots; a richly manured soil is not needed. Plenty of room should be allowed the plants, as they may have to stand some time in the pot or boxes, and overcrowding is fatal. After sowing the boxes or pots are best shaded for a few days, to save having to do too muck watering; but once the plant is through the soil full sunlight is essential. When ground and .plants are ready the plants should be turned out of the pots or carefully lifted from the boxes, the soil shaken off the roots, and the root* straightened as much as possible without, breaking; this ia best done by washing the soil off in a tub of water. When planting make a deep enough hole ac that the root can be put down a* straight as possible.

PREPARING THE ONION BED.

The onion is one of the most important crops in the garden, and although it is much too early to sow tlie main crop, it is quite time the ground was propared. The beat method ia to select a thoroughly good piece of ground, a piece that was manured -well for a previous crop, rather than using a piece which requires heavy manuring now. Deep digging or trenching kr most important to the onion crop. ' If the good soil is shallow, break up the bottom soil and leave it there; if the soil is deep, the ground can be trenched and the bottom brought to the top. Lime and wood a*hes are important manures in the cultivation of the onion, as they supply two essentials necessary to the onion, viz., lime and potash. Nitrogen is also necessary, but this is better supplied by applications of soot or nitrate of soda when the crop is growing. When the digging is on scatter two or three ounces of boneduii to the square yard, and mix it with the top spit. This work should be done now, •for although the seed will not be sown for a few weeks, yet the ground should be ready.

Hand-loom weaving is very much liked at Home, (says an English paper). Though the goods cost a little more at first, they last well. The beautiful art has been revived, and women and girls like to carry on this craft. It is artistic, and it Is not one of the forms of industry that will disappear after the war. We shall rather go back to these beautiful old crafts, so that those whs take up this work now are actually pr** paring for tho futoee* - ~