FASHIONS FROM PARIS

Auckland Star, Volume XLVII, Issue 61, 11 March 1916, Page 17

FASHIONS FROM PARIS

(By a Parisian Expert.) PARIS, January 3. SOME SIIART MILLINERY. If it is difficult to translate into words the "chic" side of some o-f tlie niout successful of the new modes, it is equally impossible to give any idea in writing of the endless variety of shapes shown in tile new millinery, or to convey even a vague impression of their curious cliarm. To begin with, the shapes ti.emselves defy description; the more ea ac some are made with presumably hif,h crowns, which are hidden from view entirely by falling loops of silk ribbon. Other shapes are covered entirely with interlaced ribbons, arranged to yive a kind of chessboard effect. T'hc. vogue of ribbon that has been revived so much of late among our frocks and frilfe ie now also associated with, i/he up-to-date millinery. Two styile3 of hai shapes bid for fashionable favour tins susson. One, as I have just observed, is the liighcrowned narrow-brimmed hat; the other, the very wide-brimmed low-crowned shapes. Both show ma,ny variations of the two types of hat, hut nearly all the new models «vi be elated under one or the other head. The small boat shapes and flat-iron turbans are still in style. Their forms shew more sinuous and becoming curves about the face. The present style of "Prince of Wales" ostrich pJumes, posed at the back, give them the height they did not -have last eeason. There is a great deal of speculation as to whether the high-cro-wned liat will take this scaeon. It looks well only when "worn with the new fashionable dress that has a fitted bodice or coat and the flaTiiig coat or skirt hem. With more conservative styles,"the turban or the •wide-brimmed hat looks better. The wide-brimmed hat seems to be al>3o made to be -worn more with the elaborate afternoon dresG than with the coat suit. Sailor shapes seem likely to be popular with the early spring gowns. Hats of this kind designed for wearing with tailor-made coats are usually of fine tegal straw, trimmed quite simply with a broad band of corded silk ribbon, finished 'in front with a perfectly flat boiv. Other email sailor hats of a smarter lcind are made in soft white eatin, and trimmed round the crown with wreaths of flowere. A -white satin hat of thia kind has a narrow brim, curled over a little and a fairly high crown, encircled with clusters of wax-like camellia blossoms, some pure white'and others faiutly tinged with pink. OUR SKETCH. The attractive little afternoon frock which ie shown in our illustration embodies some of the newest ideas from Paris, and yet is carried out in one of those quiet and unobtrusive styles that can never strike a jarring note. The tucked skirt, and the blouse which tbpa 1 the same, are carried out in pale mauve crepe do chine. An attractive feature of the skirt is a broad velvet band which is chosen in a lovely shade of deep amethyst, embroidered in palest lemon,-

coloured roees and leaves. Quite, a new note is struck by the sleeveless corselet in amethyst velvet, which has also the same beautiful embroideries, that particular shade of 'blue, the pale roses making such a delightful harmony with pale mauve. The eaine ideas exactly might be carried out in black and white for half mourning, if the ekirt were arranged in black crepe de chine, the corselet and wide 'hand in black velvet, and the roses embroidered in -white silk. TRAINS, DOUBLETS AND BUSTLES. It is rather a surprise to find trained evening gowns among the very abbreviated dance frocks presented for the new season, but a few trains there are on more etately costumes, designed for dinner and reception wear. A notable example is a wonderful gown of KAviera blue crepe, embroidered in silver, which ■has long claesic lines, and a girdle of jet and crystal beads low at the hips. Below this girdle the drapery falls in soft folds, which merge into a short trail). The doublet tunic is reincarnated from the Elizabethan era, and is another masculine fashion adapted to feminine use. The doublet tunic, slashed in the approved knightly manner, is most effective with skirts of airy net. The modes of the Third Empire are making very definite progress. The crinoline, in a modified form,' has already ' made its a-ppeaTanee on tJic Boulevards; pantelets, with lace frills falling over the ankles, have'been seen on the Paris stage; and the buatle has bcea resuscitated. There is a perfect galaxy of lace and fur and ribbons—always ribbons —miles of ribbons. HINTS. Lace berthas savour of the Victorian era; so does the full-blown rose. Little flowers nestling in ruches are one of the -features of to-day in drees. There is much beauty and grace in many of the sleeves. Josephine and Victoria appear to have contributed to the recent modes.