BEWARE SILVER ON BLACK.

Auckland Star, Volume XLIV, Issue 276, 19 November 1913, Page 8

BEWARE SILVER ON BLACK.

THE HIF-CLOTH DISAPPEARS TTJf MOURNED. FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON. (From Our Lady Correspondent.) ________ — LONDON, October 10. 'Protest as the normal among us do with all our might that the feminine world, even in dress, is mainly normal, madness will break out. At least two samples have shown themselves this week. The newest thing in millinery is a crush hat for women — that is to say, a panne shape, trimmed, generally, with aigrettes, that shuts up like a concertina in order—according to_ fashion papers —that the owner may sit, on it. ! Now, granted that at an afternoon concert such a piece of sartorial furniture might be useful, how many women are there that would ever dream of sitting on the trimmings of their hat. then wearing it as if it had been in a band- ; box all the tim<?? | , Lady Duff-Gordon, who trades r.fi the celebrated "Lucile," held a reception this week to display autumn fashions i , which, in one set of society at least, are . j certainly dictated by her and her French : j confreres, and it was found that =he is : introducing the notion of wearing with t , her "Tango" frocks coloured wigs to j match the colour chosen! WIDE SHAWL COLLARS are innovations on the children's drosses of this season. : BASQUES adorn most of the navy serge gowns for indoor wear. IT A rr> nev AM7BVCTATTOVS

HAIR ORNAMENTATIONS, 50 far. don't declare themselves with much certainty, but several pretty notions are to be seen. Zigzagged stars of paste, with each ray about five inchoi in length, mounted on a loose bow of tulle, and sometimes marabout, r.re attractive. Small jet tiara?, which are inexpensive yet distinguished, suit either low or high hair dressing. SHOES WITH COLOURED TOPS are the sort of things that need to be carefully chosen, or they look very cheap whatever their worth. .Some of the latest shoes, black as to golosh. have several coloured kid straps, and are centajnly not to be recommended to the person of taste.Feather fan rosettes of brilliant or dull plumage are the very newest conceits in footgear embellishment, while la.rge velvet rosettes (nearly everything is fan-shped) this year, ornament silver and gold tissue evening shoes. Theee are generally attached with small paste buckles. DRAGON-PLY ORNAMENTS of mother-of-pearl or composition in all sorts of .brilliant shades, are novelties as trimming for rainy day hate. MERCURY WINGS, that is to say, two quite email wings spring out with a jolly 'kind of abandon from the roof of small hats, are here again this season. FEATHER DUSTER FEATHERS. Tufte of coloured ostrich' "frond*," gathered together just like juvenile feather dusters, now are on the end of black -wires on black hats, at the back. SPOTTED FOULARD BLOUSES, generally associated with the summer, and not nearly so great successes as whole dresses, have suddenly reappeared. SELVEDGE AS ORNAMENT! It was Tather astonishing, but not at all un<beautiful, as it may 6ound, to see. a few days ago, a gracefully draped brocaded velvet evening gown, with the lengthwise draping from the right hip to the left hem composed of a piece of velvet on which the selvedge was utilised as edging. THE HIP CLOTH,

the loose Oriental cash arrangement that a little while ago was sported by quite a number of people in the street, and that never could possibly, over a thick gown and •worn by. English people, look suitable, is already passing out of popularity.

Sashes now, according to one high authority, should be tied carelessly at the side, with ends falling low on the skirt and finished with heavy tassels or ornaments of embroidery, or tied in a great bow at the back of the waist, when the ends are quite short, and the whole a-ppeaTance recalls the quaint Japanese otoL Or the belt may be fastened in front with a Ibow, which is either large and careless or very small and prim; but in either case, it ie given a little upward tilt which, ensures a short-waisted effect.

The skilful modiste can get really beautiful effects into a folded waistbelt and loose bow. One effective example of this week on a dead white evening gown, with wonderful crystal embroideries on one side of the 'bodice, had a. high belt with a loose .bow at one side at the back into which was twieted a loose fold of purple sHk; anotheT champagne-coloured dull silk gown for reception wear had its only foreign touch of colour in wedgwood blue introduced into the waist belt, and yet another afternoon; creation of winecoloured channelise had dull dark blue in the 'belt.

The graceful tying of loose Ibowe is an art, it should be remembered, tut when effective they can be a very distinctive feature in a dress.

THREE-QUARTER SLEEVES, on smart indoor and outdoor gowns, though jt is late autumn, here, are jiist as general as ever, but on gowns trimmed with lace very long sleeves, which ai-e nearly always graceful when the right medium between looseness and neatness iis recognised, are often seen. SILVER TISSUE FLOWERS, on .black evening gowns are considered, as they eound, very chic by some dressmakers, especially wihen shoes of silver tissue to match are worn, but no one should order the combination without testing its effect, as to some wearers it gives a sombre and funeral aspect that no one would willingly cultivate. A USEFUL HINT. Rajn spots on doth, it may not be generally known, can be removed if a eoft towel is wrung out of water and laid over the garment, which is then ironed with a warm iron. This process should 'be Tepeated all over the cloth.