PARIS FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume XLIV, Issue 16, 18 January 1913, Page 18

PARIS FASHION NOTES.

(By a Parisian Expert.) PARIS. November 22nd_. 1912. SMART OPERA COATS FOE THE "WINTER. It is pleasant to be able to —ronicle the fact that amons the most in—resting tea*—-es oi the forthcoming fashione will be the in traduction of something very en—rt and novel in the way of opera coats. The convenient habit of choosing for even—g wear some coat of pale-tint-ed cloth, which should also do duty as an afternoon wrap, although it might have economy of a sort to recommend it, yet did not "conduce to the general smartn—s, say, of a theatre or concert audience cannot be denied. It is doubtful, too. whether, in the long run, any such scheme does ma-be for economy, since a coat that does a double duty must naturally get wore out twice as quickly as one that is only used for a special purpose, and if only on that account the latest wraps that are in soft sating and brocade.*, and lavishly trimmed with lace and embroidery, are far more desirable in the long run. than the comparatively inexpensive cloth coat, which even al though it may bo lined with silk and trimmed with braid, never loses its makeshift appearance when worn over a smart evening gown. And there is yek another point to be considered in the matter of evening coats, which should emphasise the need for purchasing something new and smart of this description at the beginning of the season. Some people seem inclined to think that the fashions in evening coats remain always the same, no matter how much the mode may change in other respects. This is not the case, of course, and only too often one sees an evening coat the style of which is spoilt entirely from tbe fact that the sleeves are only too evidently those of tie year before last, while the collar has not even a bowing acqaaintance with the f—hionable neck-wear of the moment. If one would ovoid such anotnalies as these, it will be as well to give a little time and thought to the choice of a aew evening wrap among the many cham—g novelties o,f this description which have been brought out during the last few weeks on this side of the Channel. Satin is undoubtedly the favourite fabric of the moment for evening coats, trimmed elaborately with scroll-wart, designs, carried out in padded rrrol—nx of the same material, but lace coats mounted on chiffon, and softened with many accordion-pleated chiffon I? L_ . al3 ° be amon S the successes of the future. DAY COATS. The colours and designs in the vicuna reveisible cloth used for the new coats are prettier than ever. Amongst them are many lovely shades with a reverse of checks or stripes in harmonious shadings. A myrtle green has a dull purple and orange stripe on the reverse; a navy

shows bine-brown and crimson stripes, whilst a light beaver and a dark beaver has a navy and orange underside. The soft, downy cloth gives a rather blurred effect both to checks and stripes, indescribably charming, as, for instance,, a navy vicuna, in which the check, of oyster blue and green shades are so cleverly blended, that only the charming effect of the whole ia realised. PUEPL— AND ITS POSSIBILITIES. While on the subject of colour, I would like to say a word or two about purple and its possibilities. I am always rather sorry when I recollect that Englishwomen use purple in rather a restricted fashion. If you suggest it as a colour to the average woman, you will find she at once connects it with tailor-made garments! — a purple coat and skirt at once leap to her mental vision. What I like, are purple transparencies. The loveliest filmy gowns can be fashioned of purple, the transparent evening coats, the charmeuses, and cashmere de soie, the ninon and crepe-de-chine, all may be employed in purple colourings with exquisite results. Then there are the glorious purple flowers—clematis, roses, pansies, Canterbury bells, sweet peas, orchids, lilacs, violets, one could go on ad infinitum. A really good purple hat is far more becoming than nine out of ten women realise. A "cheap and nasty" (there are cheaps and nice), or ill-shaped, or undecided purple hat is a failure from the first, and should never be permitted, also anything in the way of a big scarf or a feather boa, collarette, or ostrich feathers for a hat should be good if the hue is selected. But might 1 not give that advice as urgently where many colours are concerned —royal blue, green, and so on?

Of shot scarlet and indigo —o_se*ine *c soie. The draped corsage, and part ot 6—-dsraped tnime, axe of eeaiiet moos8— "whale the other part of the tonic m of shot indigo —ou_—in— *Ct is one of the newest and most interesting de-aign-s created by a cel_rrated Paris tr_—HT-fr_ {i __,

OUR SKETCH. A charming dress is 6hown in purple cashmere de soie, with buttons in a matching colour and neck open "a la Raphael," finished with a lingerie collar and frills of the same to the long closefitting sleeves. The girdle is of viei— rose velvet,. The hart to top our model is a drawn purple satin lined in rosecoloured chiffon, and trimmed with an upstanding rose-coloured satin bow. PASSING OF THE TAIJJOR-MAI>E. What has become of the tailor-ma-dc suit? I have looked in vain among so many women for the simple and correct jacket and skirt, so popular in' past years, and my search has been unsuccessful. Already last June my impression was the same. There are no more, or so few, tailor suits, and these appeared old-fashioned. Woman's taste to-day is more dressy, "franfreluches" and trifles, scarfs and collarettes are once more in favour. Women are wonwn once more, and this rather sudden change is far from displeasing to those who have never ceased to deplore the dulness of the attire adopted for a time. We shall cease, therefore, to resemble small boys. Our dresses will no longer be cut in stuffs reserved for We shall care but for airiness, softness and delicacy of essentially feminine materials. When we walk, our dresses will once more produce the pretty rustle of silk forgotten for years. Our lace frocks will fly up at the slightest movement and evolve exquisite perfume of amber or sandal wood. We shall be women once more, after having tried to be queer-looking boys! A WHOLESOME WARNING. I hate being frightened by fashion, just as much as one side of mc enjoys a laugh when she is funny. I met a woman yesterday who was wearing one of the new crooked hats well pulled down —so far that it completely covered one eye, and to look at mc she tilted her

head on one side, like a robin in search of a worm, to my intense and, I fear, illconcealed amusement. It did look foolish, and the hat wasn't pretty either —a yellow velvet one trimmed with one thin ■ straggly plume. Worn in a less exaggerated manner it would have been smart, ugly as the colouring was. Mustard is ugly, bnt m_tard is, or rather can be, as smart as you please. "COIFFU—ES ALA MODE." [But .before going -to iier modrete, the Parisiernne pays a visit to her h_rdreaser. There tiie "artist" looks unutterable reproach when he sees the handiwork of _c lady's maid. When the Pari—enne leaves, she probably ha* a new switch, her head circled by an undulating band -of hair, very natural in appearance. With her head Urns prepared, she finds that all the hats she tries on suit her. This season the faah-ionably-dressed woman will wear her hair more loosely dressed than ever. Very wide bandeaux, hardly waved at all, leave the forehead uncovered and hide the ears. The ridacolous fashion of heavy posfciehee has paseed awcy; only a chignon now, and even that quite simple, iwifchout the torsade, or the e_—•cling plait. The fashionable head is j Greek in aspect, small and classic, in otrt- • line. So, of course, irais and toques are worn even fur—er down over —c head ■than, heretofore. PEETTT TMTUTT-TERY. Ats every year at this season staghimting aaid other operß—r sports bring the three-cornered hat back into vogue again. Mode in black or violet V—ret, it is always yery pretty. They are aleo often made in black plusb Hned with coloiired velvet. The brim is irreg—ar, raised -higher on the left -than on fche right. A curled -white feather, finde-hed on the left with a little white fea—er bow, encircles the brim. Another hat, "which wiH be _nch worn this season, is tbe little ''bo—— —<m" _ode*. It is made in drarped Hock velvet, one of the cor•nere of the stuff -nmk_g a big "ear' at the hawk. The edge the face wiH be trammed -with a. little _araboirt following the line of the velvet.

One of tho favonrite tr___igs for simple hats —is ■wroter is the ostrich

feather pompom. Wet pf—era placed well at the back and horizontally are also seen a great de—. In fact, there is practically no trimming at ail to the smart hot, which owes its "chic" to its shape 'which must be well defined and graceful in outline.