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THE GARDEN.

(By HOBTUS.) TO CORRESPONDENTS. To Name a Flower (SUvanus).—The specimens you sent me were too withered for Identification; please leave another blossom, with a piece of the foliage, at the "Auckland Star" Office on Tuesday, the 30th. Do not put the specimen in a box, but place It iu water. Sweet Corn, and Sunflower (Sunflower). —It is too late now to sow sweet corn; the plants would not haTe time to grow and mature before the cold weather sets In. The. best time to sow is in the end of November, or early in December. Sowin rows about two feet apart, and a foot apart in the row. Sunflowers: I have • ■overed the seeding beads with both paper and scrim to keep off birds. I always found that scrim wa« the most effectual, as it allows a freer passage of air to th? ripening seeds. Please let me know how you succeed. Lilac Tree (J.W.).—You are not likely to succeed In raising seedlings even if the seed is properly matured. You could transplant any rooted suckers around the base of your lilac tree in June or July, and planted separately these should mak» strong young trees. The lilac does not grow so well here as It does in Britain. HINTS. Heavy artificial waterings have been necessary to save kidney beans, late peas, saladingß, etc., from being- burnt up by the heat of the sun. Occasional deep waterings, as was suggested, have alone given a modicum of success, especially when poured through manurial nnilching-s. Such waterings have to be persisted in as long as dry weather lasts. New Strawberry Plantations.—Where these are contemplated, the ground should be prepared as soon as possible, so that it has time to settle down somewhat before planting. This ie best done as soon as runners are sufficiently rooted for transference. Some amateurs divide existing old plants, but rooted runners should always be used. These runners, planted out very early, produce good crops the following year, but beds are rarely reasonably productive more than three seasons. For preference, the ground should be trenched or bastard trenched and liberally manured. Though strawberry plants succeed fairly well replanted on the renovated old beds, it is best to plant them on fresh sites. Flower borders are still looking well, and every encouragement must be given to the plants to enable them to keep up the display. When the surface soil has not been loosened, and a shower of rain comes, it runs off the beds instead of penetrating the soil. Then recourse hae to be had to the watering--can. Keep the surface soil loose with a fork or a pointed stick. Remove all dead blooms to prolong the blooming period. Border chrysanthemums require additional ties when they show the least signs of falling over. Such as are crown near walls or fences should have their shoots neatly tacked in before they become too tall or bent. Carnations. —The work of layering ' may be proceeded with now. to enable them to obtain a good root hold bv autumn, when they may be separated from the parent plant. To be successful with layers care must be taken that they are securely fastened down. Pegs of forked branches of wood are the best, remaining firm in the soil, but if wire is used make a hook at both ends. Make a small mound of sandy soil on which to rest the layer, and by gently pressing down the layer at the point the sandy soil will keep open the cut' when covered over. There will be some growth not sufficiently long for layering, and these may be cut off just below a joint with a "heel." Trim off the . lower leaves, and place them as cuttings in a cool, shady spot. I

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/AS19120126.2.94.4

Bibliographic details

Auckland Star, Volume XLIII, Issue 23, 26 January 1912, Page 10

Word Count
632

THE GARDEN. Auckland Star, Volume XLIII, Issue 23, 26 January 1912, Page 10

THE GARDEN. Auckland Star, Volume XLIII, Issue 23, 26 January 1912, Page 10

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