FASHION NOTES FROM PARIS.

Auckland Star, Volume XLII, Issue 287, 2 December 1911, Page 18

FASHION NOTES FROM PARIS.

(By a Parisian Expert.)

PARIS, October, 1911. It seems difficult to discuss practical problems of dress just now. On every hand one sees things new and interesting. Freakish? Yes, some of them may be; but, on the whole, the frocks of the new season are distinctly wearable. It is in the new millinery, as 1 announced in mj last week's Petite Causeric, that the eccentric and bizarre, holds sway. Where the new frocks shown are not practical, from the average woman's point of view, the fault lies, not so much in eccentricity of line as in elegance, of materials. Bead trimmings are well to the fore for evening frocks, and fur comes a good second; laces and embroideries are ever lovely adjuncts to our evening gowns, and enter into the frocks turned out by famous French makers. Bugles are still enjoying a good deal of favour, and a pretty evening frork for a girl to be worn at a forthcoming dance is of opalescent "soap bubble" effect, bugle embroideries upon opalescent tulle over a lovely satin, white shot with pink and blue. A wreath of leafless pink and blue forget-me-nots goes right round the fair hear, and ties low in the neck With a nacre ribbon fringed with silver. I've just ordered an enthralling gown for myself. It is a combination of white Chantilly silk net, mounted over a foundation of pale parma crime silk.. which is powdered with ft P»«ern of small pink roses, and rood* with mils galore, over the last one being a garland of pink baby roses, which look sweet when the skirt is raised The tunic » caught up at the side, and there finished with a nosegay of American beauty roses and "true lovers' " knots in satin ribbons, falling in streamers to the feet. The decollete bodice is charming, the two sides being trimmed respectively with sprays of roses and true lovers' knots. As I have already remarked, our dressmakers certainly intend that we shall bathe in a sea* of colours this season. These colours would be unquestionably otirish and vulgar were it not for the veilings which come to tho rescue, and the subtle combinations of tints which o-ivc a new meaning to the crudest tones. A case in point 's the beautiful evening dress, which our artist has sketched on this page. The foundation is the ever popular Princess fourrenu. of charmeuse satin, in a deep shade of powder blue, and over this is a straight tunic of petunia net, which comes down to a point on the right side, and is adorned with the most beautiful silver and blue embroideries. The Empire corsage and sleeves arc trimmed) with the same lovely embroideries, while an Empire belt ' and a square-cat train in deep saphire velvet give that touch of the imprevue which -is so unexpected, and yet so exceedingly effective, to a gown, which, though brilliant, is by no means garish.

Though the one-pieco gown had undoubtedly dealt the blouse a somewhat severe blow, the position of that most, worthy garment is practically unassailable. It occupies an entrenched position, and ranks among the. best friends of the most "powerful of beings—the average > woman. For eventing wear the blouse of coarse net enjoys much popularity. It is made plain, and then decorated with a. darning or chenille cable silk, or fine ribbon, and at the cost of a few shillings »n ingenious woman can thus ■ possess herself of a most useful blouse for concert or theatre wear. Under ibis I blouse a silk slip may be worn, though many woman recognise an equal vharni in coloured cashmere. This cashmere, in a pale shade of orange under a cream net, embroidered with -coloured silks, presents a most excellent appearance. The plain cashmere blouse in a very light shade of mole, showing metallic and deep coloured silk embroidery in conventional design, goes admirably with a mo!? coloured skirt in any material: in fact, ii>. all shades embroidered with crossstitch makes' a blouse that will stand unlimited -weat, and still look smart and commendable. Ribbons most beautiful in de=icrn and colour will be freely lined, partictiltrly in the evening during the coming season. Snel , ."* ait in hkrh favour, -and tin Empire dress demands a swathed waist h?lt, and frequently streamers of ribbon, long and wide, -caught into twisted point-;. As to the rosettes and narrow ruches shown on many of. the new frocks, their number is so large as to suggest yards and yards of silken or salun ribbon. Furs,, too, .ire sometimes mounted on narrow ruches on satin, and many of the cloaks, coats, and mantles are outlined just within the front 3by these -closelyset ruches. There are fine and soft ribbons that draiw into almost nothing, and there are thick and heavy ones scarcely pliable at all for their mere richness. Wide satins are especially suitable for Kafirs, and in sraii? cases they are wrought in brocaded pattern*, many colours being introduced, and often touches of metal wrought through the whole design. iMotallii* fissile composes niOft of the hair ribbons. As to the hug", knots that will be freoly worn as !;:it I rimmings, they will absorb many yai '" of hr.ndsome silk or satin ribbon, ■for i.ioy must be very wide and stand very high.