FASHION NOTES FROM PARIS.

Auckland Star, Volume XLII, Issue 263, 4 November 1911, Page 16

FASHION NOTES FROM PARIS.

(By a Parisian Expert.)

PARIS, September, ion In the dressmaking wnri,i +u great many mysteriou ht p ££ ar * * every day the merchants pl v P^?f' aa >l industriously before the eves OMI ? tical designer, and makers 8 $ *£> rhoy axe selling all things Oriental l. , here „ re some beautiful SSiA v. Inch are being made up into evening coats, and scarves. SteeTO favour.t e medium, and when the bLi are worked on to „ 80 ft silken maft ' most beautiful effects may J»~Z u..u,1. Hand bags are beaded^^ n everything, except where steel is „£? the prominence of Persian colouring?,' noticeable Rich Persian cashmeres' printed silks and embroideries, are to be used as trimmings with applications; in fact the great ,dea is to seek the richest and most luxurious effect possible ii all things. Even buttons must carrv out the Oriental note, and hat pins Lllo* the same line. As to the dominant line. of form, it is difficult to see in what di. rection they will run, but we are prom, ised straight, simple gc-3 5 of gorgeous" materials and colours, more fullness, and simple draperies, and disguised picats severely pressed. A few houses may attempt the stiff paniers of the XVTI and XVIII centuries, but no one seenu to think they will be looked at with favour. An indication towards the prolongation of the life of the narrow skirt, is that all the new lingerie is made on scanty lines, and petticoats are practically non-exist-ent. The morning costumes will be quiti simple in cut and texture, short in the skirt but full enough to allow of easy movements. Braid or silk cords will be used for trimmings, with velvet collars and cuffs, for velvet will be seen everywhere this autumn, and for the visiting tailor-mades it will be the favourite material, the rough freezes and serges used for morning costumes being considered quite inadequate for afternoon wear. Certain new skirts are showing the revived volant. These may be made of contrasting materials, or of the same stuff as the frock itself, of velvet, of silk, of various kinds of lace, or as I have suggested previously, of many strappings arranged perpendicularly, broadening slightly as they reach the feet with the sweep of the gown. This is especially pretty for a shooting skirt, when anything that "catches round the feet" is entirely out of place. (The ultra-tight gown may last a little longer in certain circles, but it is so far from bring a novelty .that it has only its own merit to stand on nowadays—in which case, without further apology, I may fairly say that I think its end is in sight.) Another use for velvet in which the woman past her first youth will rejoice, is in the construction of the long mantle. This is Tery long ancl very cosy, and for the coming winter days its depth cf cok our and softness makes it a very becoming substitute for the cloth coats. Even a faded skin looks younger with a Velvet mantle. Among tne new velvets—and' their name is legion—there is a very fine cotels velvet which makes up extremely WeD. It is like the finest corduroy, cad is u handsome in mastic tones, as it is in ttie richer hues. "'Dark" dresses will bo Very dark this winter. The navy blues S.TC almost black, while the purples and browns are also in the richest and deepest tints, and the touches of brilliant flower, col*, ours which are applied to so riany bl them, look all the better by mesas of this contrast, Moreover, there are faner velvets, spotted and broche, which wift help to make the smartest of gowns, hut which require great discretion on the part of the couturieres. Neither is suit- 1 able for a whole dress, but as accMSdl-' ies they should foe more successful. "•'

Our illustration portrays a cbMmial gown for a young girl's damung frock. Many girls do not look their best In allwhite, is often as trying as oUblack to wear; and I have preferred to choose a model with a tender scheme of delicate colour as being more distinctive than the ordinary virginal white. Tt>« under dress is of palest green soft satin, and gives glimpses of the dainty little pale green satin shoes and pink sill stockings. The mnic is in palest. Parnrt chiffon adorned with a silk ball fringe, ih<> same trimming forming an effective decoration of the cordage and the sleeves. Just below the opening of the corsage lucre is a prcttv crowed drapery arrange.none in ivory Venise point. The whole effect is exceedingly simple and quaint.