WOMEN'S REALM.

Auckland Star, Volume XXXV, Issue 47, 24 February 1904, Page 4

WOMEN'S REALM.

ANT "WOMAN MAY - BE ; BSAtrriFUi. " CAMILLE ROGER, FAMOUS PA- > RISIAN MILLINER, SAYS IT IS ONLY A MATTER OF AIAKING [ THE HAT FRAME THE FACE. ; A carping man or two may smile, but ' j I shall not be laughed at by any woman " j for the statement that far too little ' j time and certainly too little attention j are given by the softer sex to face , framing, or, in simpler language, to the choice of their hatIn choosing a hat for our customers, or in imposing our opinion on them, the first consideration is the shape and character of the face. I make a point of talking for some moments with a new customer on any subject which comes upermost, so as to see how her face varies. There are women whose face 3 sadden, and whose eyes grow deeper when they smile. Early Victorian suits these faces best. /A woman with this depth in her expression would not look well in a galette or flat creation, with but little ornament upon it. even although such a hat would probably suit her face well indeed while in repose, and in such tilings as this, I would point out, lies all the difference between a face framing artist and a mere modiste. GENERAL IMPRESSION AN ERROR. There is a general impression that big women need big hats, and that small I hats are for small women only. This. j like most generalities, errs in a want of detail, for, like those verbs in French whose irregularities give such dreadful trouble to the learner of our language, not only do the. exceptions in face framing prove the rules but they far outnumber them. A broad face, with a fine, broad forehead. coiffe en bandeaux, a full, round neck, and a soupcon of double chin, will, if the eyos be good and nose and mouth not too small, look best in a large hat, raised on one side, with a buckle and a feather, a ehapeau cavalier. But if—and this i 3 one of nature's little witticisms —the nose tip in this face be, as it so often is. a dainty retrousse, the ehapeau cavalier would be impossible, for it would give the wearer the appearance that her head was trying to free itself and fly away from the shoulders. A hat like that is what we call vii chnpean gui enleve. a hat which carries off and lends a certain dash, and this the upturned nose tip does itself without extraneous aid, so that the ebapemi cavalier would be an exaggeration and most inartistic. SOME REQUIRE SEVERITY. Again, just as there are picture;? of preat beauty, Bnrne-Jones' pictures, for instance, which, in the framing of them nred a plain severity, so there are perfect face? which need plainly severe hats. For these, a thin face, forming to an oval ai the chin, with well mark ed eyebrows, a straight, thin lipped mouth, and a large nose, a perfectly plain hat which overshadows the face. is the best. In fact, the more we work upon face,framing the more we find that eyes and nose are the two" portions of the face which give us the most trouble. The form of the hat must be in with the nose. The character of it—its soul, if I may' say so, must be in harmony with the expression of the eyes. Mouth do not bother us particularly, for they go with the eyes almost invariably, and grave, grey eyes will rarely have a rosebud mouth and dimpled chin beneath themThe modiste who wishes to do more than merely match a dress with her creation and to hat her customer, instead of simply putting a hat on her must know her and know something of her. My experience teaches mc that one of my assistants who knows a customer will succeed in framing her face with greater ease than a more skillful one who does not known her. and I make a point, of either knowing each individual customer myself or taking care that my daughter or one of my premieres does so. FASHION DOESN'T ALWAYS SUIT. It is. of course, a great mistake to fancy that because a particular style of hat is fashionable it must suit every face. But there are managements—l do not think there is an English word exactly to express it, for modifications mean too much and accommodation means too little —which may be made with fashion, and so adapt the fashionable hat to a face which at the first flush it would not appear to suit. A striking woman ought to wear a striking hat. but it must not be an exaggeration, nor must a wee face be allowed to sink into insignificance under a hat too big for it, or to be made to pass unnoticed with too plain a one. Hats are a combination of face frames and face backgrounds. In them the face must be carefully studied by an expert aud the hat suited to itMy last word is, "Don't trust your looking glass too much." Take 'your i modiste's advice as you would listen to that of your doctor, for she knows your face, not as you yourself fancy that you know it. but as it really is. and knows by her experience how'that face and the hat she gives you can best be blend led into one harmonious whole.

. MUTTJAX, ATTRACTION OF OTT>IKES IN MATRIMONY.

While Government, instructed by \ science, meddles with nearly everything i j else, it kjeps its hands off the most in> I portant factor in the development of the j race, namely, the selection of matrimonial mates. This is left to the discretion of the individual, and in too many cases that discretion is exercised unwisely. While not holding with Dr. Johnson that marriages should be made by the ! Chancellor, one may contend that neoh>l c, in choosing their mates, ought to be guided by the simple laws of physiology. Children, generally, inherit characteristics, both bodily and mental I from both parents. Consequently, persons about to marry should study their characteristics with a view to obtaining for their progeny the best possible re°sults. Thus a tall, thin man should not marry a tall, thin woman, for the children, very likely, will be taller and thinner than either of them. One should marry a person of quite contrary characteristics, so that the offspring of the union may not have the peculiarities of either parent in an unduly exaggerated degree. Perhaps nature has foreseen the possibility of the too frequent pah-ing of like with like, and to prevent it has planted in the human breast an instinct

by which people prefer for spouses their opposites in physique and intellect. At least it is a common observation that the attraction is strongest between persons most unlike each other. ; The hypothesis of this instinct explains ■ many marriages that seem very unequal Ito outsiders. It why men of \ \ brains in so many cases marry silly ' i women, why tall men take short women, ' ! and lean men incline to stout women. Jlt explains why the gay pair with the I saturnine, the fair with the dark* the ' ! handsome with the plain. 1 I If like were attracted by like, the ; result would be the gradual"destruction I, of the homogeneity of a race. The ath- ! I letic would marry the athletic, the in- : j tellectual the intellectual, the handsome I the handsome. In each generation the ■ type would be accentuated until man- > kind would be divided into a great L ! number of different species or varieties, ■I as dissimilar as the species of pigeons 1I or of canines. One species would be 1 ; vastly more powerful physically than ' i any "of the others. Another species '• 1 would excel the rest in brain power, but ' would be weak in body. There would • be a species composed of giants, and a species composed of dwarfs. Tins state of affairs would be very • good for some of the species, but very ■ hard on others. And, in accordance with 1 the law of the survival of the fittest, the I weaker species would be crowded out 1 I of the favourable regions by the stronger ; species. Nature, apparently, designs to perpetuate humanity in its present fairly equal condition. Accordingly, as soon as one man becomes a cubit taller than J the type or average, he is inspired to 1 marry a short woman. As soon as he . advances intellectually a considerable : distance ahead of his generation he 1 falls in love with an ordinary woman. I The next geneiation, in either case, falls • back to the level of mediocrity. At ! times the relapse into mediocrity may • be staved off until the third or fourth generation, but it comes inevitably. The . progress of the human race to whatever 1 goal it pursues must be an orderly movement, in regimental front. No I one may run far ahead of the line or t tower more than the regulation height t above the file. Of if all conditions were j equal, the intermarriage of unlikes would ; soon obviate all variety and reduce the . race to one uniform type. Absolute mcdi- ; ocrity would prevail. This event, how- ■ ever, is precluded by the variety and j inequality of the conditions to which in- , dividuals are subjected. One man is , well fed, well housed, well taught. Aα- [ other is brought up by impoverished parents, and his physical or mental development is retarded. Also., it must , not be forgotten, that the fact on which ' all this theorising is founded —the mutual attraction of unlikes—has not been scientifically established. Certainly there are exceptions enough to the rule, • if there is such a rule. HINTS ON EOW TO ALWAYS S£SEP TES BABY WE&J. AND STRONG. No more intelligent, helpful and valuable service has been rendered by the Department of Health of New York City than the widespread distribution of a little circular giving ten rules "to keep the baby well." Direct, clear an'l I"admirably worded, these rules embody the newest and best experience of the 'experts 6n rr baoy r care. hasbeen put at the head of the list, and ought to set at rest the silly notions of some present-day mothers that the new "baby foods"' or cow's milk or anything else can equal mother's milk for baby food. Physicians who advise mothers that it is better not to try to nurse the baby are either very ignorant or are preparing the way for a sick baby and a profitable patient. These are the rules as prepared by President Lederle and Dr. Biggs, the medical officer: 1. Nurse it: Nothing equals mother's milk for a baby food. If you cannot nurse the baby use fresh milk which in hot weather has been boiled and prepared according to directions. (A circular of directions will be sent on application to the Department of Health.) Xurse the baby part of the time, if you cannot nurse it all the time. Do not give it condensed milk or any prepared baby food. 2. Feed or nurse it at regular intervals, not more than once in three hours after it is sis weeks old. Don't feed it simply because it cries. Decrease the amount of milk on very hot days. Too much food and too frequent feeding are among the commonest causes of sickness. 3. Bathe it daily: The glands of the skin carry off nearly as much poisonous matter as the bowels. They both nust be kept open in hot weather. Dry the skin well after bathing. 4. Air it: Out of cloor air is necessary. Keep the head shaded from the direct sunlight* In hot weather take the baby out early in the morning before nine o'clock, when it is cool, and again late jin the afternoon and early evening, but not late at night. 5. Keep it cool: If it is bundled up too much in summer it will become overheated. The more nearly naked it i 3 the better in extremely hot weather. 6. Keep it in a quiet place: A baby'snerves are very sensitive. Continued . noise sometimes causes sickness. 7. Give it water: Between feedings give water freely, especially in hot weather. Use only watsr that has been boiled. I S. Give no fruit to a baby less than a year old. In summer give no fruit to a baby less than two years old. Fruit kills many babies. 9. Give no solid food to a baby less than one year old. For the first year of life the food should be all milk." For the second year, chiefly milk. 10. Call your own doctor, or if you have; none, in summer notify ai onco 'the Department of Health if the baby hfis diarrhoea, or is sick, and a doctor will be sent immediately. When fortune smiles one day and frowns the next, many a woman who has been tenderly and luxuriously reared finds herself forced to care for herself in the most undreamed of and practical way. If she be "to the manner born" she goes bravely to work and keeps her heart sunny and true, so that her face may reflect happy qualities. She is too sensible to pine and fret for what is lost, but turns to the brightness that gleams every now and then across her present pathway, and makes the most 01 it until she has no time for useless regretting. You can trust this kind of woman in everything. She will do for any emergency, and has genuine strength and stability, despite her "eentle ways" and ready smile.

CHEAP SUMMER BEVERAGES.

GINGER POP. Pour a gallon of boiling water on nb of loaf sugar, ioz of ginger, and 102 of cream of tartar. When nearly cold add. a tablespoonful of yeast. Strain and bottle it, and in six hours it will be fit to use- If root ginger be used, it should be boiled in the water fojr' 20 minutes. HOPKOS. To every five quarts of water allow: 3oz of hops, £"oz of bruised ginger. 2lb of sugar, a half pint of yeast. First boil the hops in about 3 quarts of water and strain through a felt filtering bag or a stout doth. Then add two quart* more water, and the ginger, and brin<» to the boil again, letting all simmer for a good ten minutes. Again strain the liquor, add the sugar, and stir it Wl well dissolved. When it has cooled down to the temperature of new milk add the yeast. Let it ferment for about 24 hours, then strain and botfre. APPLE TEA. Wash and wipe a good large cooking apple, cut it into small pieces, and boil in half a pint of water until it is soft. Then strain off the water, add a lump of sugar, and serve cold or iced. Two cloves may be boiled with the applei LEMONADE POWDER. Rub 2dr of tartaric acid, 340z of sugar and five drops of oil of lemon well togetheT in a china or stone mortarWhen thoroughly mixed, place in % wellcorked bottle for use- To produce a nice, refreshing beverage, add a tea* spoonful of the powder to half a pint of water. TO MAKE SODAWATER IN A *V TUMBLER. First weigh ■ out powders containing 30gr of carbonate of soda, and fold them in some coloured paper. In -white papers place 25gr of tartaric or citric acid. Dissolve one of each powder in half a tumbler of cold water, then mix the contents of the two tumblers, and you will have a refreshing effervescing drink. SOME HOT WEATHER. SANDWICHES. EGG SANDWICHES. Chop up fine the whites of hard-boiled eggs; the yolks are stirred up into a fine paste with a bit of butter, salt, and pepper; entire mass mixed well to. gether and spread upon the bread. MIXED SANDWICHES-One-fourth pound of ham, one-fourt¥ pound of tongue, two hard-boiled eggs, and two pickles are chopped up ene. Stir into a paste one-fouTth pound of butter and four sardines; then -miv all the ingredients well together.. This mixture is very nice for filling up hollowed out rolls. SWISS CHEESE SANDWICH. Brown bread is cut into very fine slices, and white bread—so-called domestic loaf is most suitable—also cut very; thin; butter pretty thickly, and lay; in a very thinly-cut slice of Swiss cheese between a white and a slice of brown' S bread. FLOWER SANDWICHES. Brown bread is eufc-rvrary, cthin, .and—, thickly buttered; on one. side of each sandwich lay very- finely-sliced pieces "."__" of pickle; cut the hard round yolks of eggs into slices, and lay ifi .the middle.*-' of each half for a daisy centre, and cut the hard-boiled whites of the eggs into long, ray-like pieces for the daisy petals, and arrange them around the centre. The upper half of the sandwich must be thickly buttered and tightly pressed on lower half,.so as to keep the ' floral arrangement in shape. HOUSEHOLD HINTS. . When pickling always use the strongest vinegar, and have it scalding hot, as cold vinegar becomes ropy and will not keep. ' To Clean White Knife Handles.—Dissolve a little salt in some lemon juice-; rub this on the handles with a soft rag ; till the stains are gone. Rinse in clean warm water, dry thoroughly, and polish with a soft leather. Thickening Gravy.—Gravy will generally be lumpy if the thickening 13 poured in while the pan is over the fire. Take the pan off until the thickening is well stirred in, then put over the fire and cook t-ioroughly. Equal parts of turpentine, boiled linseed oil, vinegar and spirits of wine, if all shaken well together, constitute an excellent polish for stained floors. It should be applied sparingly with flannel, and be well polished afterwards with ,* soft cloth. A ready way to renovate shabby looking black lace is to soak it for three or four hours in a pint of cold water containing two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, then rinse it in somt cold coffee,. place it between two pieces of flannel and iron it whilst still damp. White-painted doors, skirtings, etc., > should net be washed wjth strong soap, or, in fact, any soap at a]L as it is likely to remove the gloss of the paint: The best treatment for such delicate woodwork is to dip a wet flannel in bran or whiting and rub it over the surface of the wood. To make a compress for a wound in za on- ergency, if there is nothing. be* f er at hand, use clean tissue paper. It i 3 quite as efficacious and much less liable to convey injurious impurities into the wound -than strips torn from old clothing or a soiJed handkerchief. To Keep Milk Sweet in Hot Weather. — Mix into a paste with water enough boric acid to cover a sixpence, put it into the bottom of a basin, add a pint of milk and stir. An ounce of boric acid, at the cost of Id or 2d, would last all the summer. A Cheap and Excellent Laundry Bine. —Buy from any good chemist 3d of indigo blue and oxalic acid, mixed. Divide . this into three equal portions, put into three half-pint bottles, and fill with water. After it has stood for a day, thi3 preparation, which does not cloud the clothes, and is very economical, is ready, for use. Iron Holders. —If, in making an iron holder, two thicknesses of brown paper are put between the material used for the holder, the heat, will not then come through so quickly to the hands. Coarse linen "is better to use for the covering than woollen material. To Clean flannel Blankets.—Flannel blankets may be successfully cleansed by using borax and soft soaps. Put two tablespoonfuls of borax and a pint of soft soap into cold water enough to cover the blankets. When the borax and soap have become dissolved, put in the blankets and let them stand over night. The next day rub them out, rinse them i« two waters and hang them to dr£. neref wring rhem. . • '"*■" i~—>*Br<