FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume XXXI, Issue 184, 4 August 1900, Page 6 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

Jacket bodices are at all times becoming and stylish. This jaunty design will be found desirable for any of the favourite woollen goods, combined with silk or velvet. The front is a double-breasted Eton, cut low, and rounded off to reveal a vest of tucked or corded silk, while the back is made plain, with1 a short, slightly curved yoke effect. If the tucked or corded effect is not desired, plain material, trimmed with narrow, flat trimming, is substituted.

A lace collar of some kind is almost a necessity at the present time. Those who can afford to do so will certainly buy laces that are made in Ireland, chiefly in the convents or by those ladies of straitened circumstances who are adepts at the wonderful art. For the majority of people, however, the hand-made laces are too expensive, though here I may mention the fact that Irish crochet is not a costly adornment, and is precisely the kind of trimming Paris is going wild over now under the name of guipure d'lrelande. It looks excessively well as a finish to handsome lapel edges, or

as a centre motif upon a glace shirt, especially a. black one, on which the delicate white of the work shows up most handsomely. This shirt: is so prettily folded and has such simple, yet effective, lace lapels fixed together over a soft front with a black bow thatnofurtker words are needed to extol it. It would develop daintily in a cream muslin with satin backs for the lace, which said satin and the lace would be made removable when the rest of the shirt went to the laundry.

Eton jackets in various new cuts and designs bid fair to be more popular for outdoor wear than ever before. The "Sylvester" fits as tight in the back and at the sides as a tailor

basque. The fronts extend a little below the waist, are pointed and open sufficiently to reveal a shirt waist.

lln spite of continued harping on i the point, cashmere ■ was r not such a favourite material for gowns last season as was expected, but this season it is undoubtedly the rage, and for the very good reason of its adaptability to the prevailing modes, which aim after flowing outlines and yet must fit the figure like a glove. Very smart is the natty little tailormade coat shown here of black cloth

liberally strapped. It is made especially to wear with a skirt of black and white checked tweed —a stylish toilette for this time of the year, and sufficiently durable to pass unblemished through the alternating cloud and sunshine so often our daily portion. Tweeds of all kinds, from those of rough surface and cream-coloured hue to the brownish homespuns checked with blue, are exceedingly fashionable. Nothing looks go smart for travelling- in as a grey homespun cut to perfection, a.nd of a comfortable walking length a3 to skirt. This, with a bat of the same material, through the ribbon of which a quill has been thrust, is an eminently useful and stylish costume.

At the present moment patriotism is shown by the style of garments worn, and the blouse I have illustrated this week is one of the newest style—being an imitation of the tunics worn by the "gentlemen in khaki." It is seen largely made, in this material, but as it it is a most unbecoming colour I think women would be well advised not to indulge in khaki, or if they do it should be toned down with black, though the patriotic-minded ones will

add scarlet. Later on in the year I can fancy holland making a very good substitute for khaki, and trimmed with narrow black ribbon or braid, or black stitching, with a scarlet tie, if liked, the effect would be very good. For wearing at the present time of the year there are many materials to choose from, as. the style would be very suitable for a cycling blouse, the pockets making very useful little additions. They are merely stitched on to the right and left fronts, and could be edged round with a contrasting colour if liked.

I am glad to note that smart aprons are again coming into vogue for women who busy themselves about their house or their children, or devote themselves to needlework. There is no doubt that the plain skirt has helped towards their popularity, for an apron always looks ridiculous when placed over much fussiness below. The one in my sketch is particularly

pretty, being1 made of pale blue silk spotted with white, and it has a broad band of pale blue satin, ribbon to match at the bottom. The bands on,the bib, one passingl over each, shoulder, are finished-off with rosettes on either side, and another rosette bow conceals the fastening at thq waist. There is a natty little pocket just big enough to hold kejrs or a case of scissors. A. wide lace edging- completes this pretty axjron, which woulcj be not only useful in itself, but would' smarten up an old gown wonderfully, and give a delightfully housewifely air if donned about tea time.

This simple and becoming little frock is one that I have been asked to illustrate. The pattern is cut for a child of from four to six years of age, but the style is fit for almost any age. Serge would, of course, be the material for making up this useful little costume, as it possesses all the advantages necessary for materials for children's wear. About 21 yards of 42-inch material will be necessary. The upper collar, which would be cut the same shape as the material sailor collar, only a little smaller, is made of drill, either white or blue, and edged with rows of narrow braid; two would be necessary for laundry purposes.

The skirt is intended to be sewn to a 'lining bodice, so as to keep all neat round the waist. It would be mode exactly like a petticoat bodice, hemmed at neck and waist, to which the

skirt is. attached. The blouse would be separate, and merely hemmed at the lower edge, through -which an elastic would be run to draw it in to size of waist. The centre front of skirt and centre nnd back of blouse must be placed to a fold, to avoid a seam. A fairly wide hem should be allowed at the bottom for lengthening purposes, while good turnings should be left at each seam, and also at lower edge of blouse aud sleeves. \ The material sailor collar will be required to be made double, the edges turned in, and then middle-stitched close to the edge.

The skirt will be best lined, unless made of very thick serge, but the blouse will not .need lining, and, as there are so few seams, it is a.particularly easy garment to make.

The seams of the skirt will require opening and pressing, as Avell as those of the lining, if made separately, while all other seains'and edges should be well pressed. . ,