FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume XXXI, Issue 53, 3 March 1900, Page 6 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

TUCKED AND > HEMSTITCHED LAWN IS IN HIGH BEPUTE.

One Criterion1 'bi agood' dressmaker is the art she expends upon the back view of her toilettes. It looks as it -we should soon have to consider these with rather more diligence than heretofore. Regard for example the dress sketched from a beautiful model which hails from Vienna. It is very elaborate in design, and yet the tout ensemble is simplicity. The little white tucked and hemstitched bodice is almost covered by the Princess robe of the palest dove cloth appliqued with, large white

motifs, finely stitched upon the cloth. These and the edge of the-tunic .look like ivor}'', and like motifs also trim with great profusion the otherwise quite plain front of the robe. . Two little buttons define the waist, and there are others to hold down the velvet strappings that apparently support the tunic robe. These are of plain polished ivory, one of the latest freaks in fancy buttons. .

A charming toilette designed by one of our most exclusive modistes Jj

shown in this figure. It was of Zinc brown holland as to skirt, and short. Eton jacket, with a bordering of some two ■ inches wide of dark blue sill? embroidery edging jacket, and having two lines running- down the skirt. The under shirt was of very pale bhie silk with tiny tucks from top to bottom. This design might be very successfully carried out in cashmere, stiJJ

retaining the tucked silk shirt which is so dainty and dressjv The adapting of the preceding little velvet coat might be successfully achieved in less exti-avagant materials. A brown velveteen, for instance, with cream silk revers, or a green cloth with green silk revers, would be both stylish and picturesque, the lace jabot and frou-< frou being retained in either case. '

I. give you, too, the neatest > little idea in the way of a coat, and personally I consider a coat and skirt like this perhaps the most useful type of "going away" gown. This is of mastic coloured covert coating, the shape a crossed bolero, pointed in. front, the high turned-over collar and deep re-

vers stitched closely -with silk, stitched several times round the edge, and buttoned with carved ivory buttons. ' At the neck >a-dainty little jabot- bf lace appears," and-^tlie"' toque :'w6i;ri r: is;no'f' mauve chenille plait, a big bow of chiffon at, the side held up by a gold buckle. I wish you to notice the collar of the coat particularly, as all the latest are made in this way, high up before they turn down. I should complete this very simple costume .with a petticoat- of mauve silk, with many kilted frills, and a blouse of mauve crepe-de-chine, striped down with guipure insertion from a small yoke of guipure at the neck. Good crepe-de-chine wears beautifully.

The January, sales are always an exciting source of speculation to the feminine mind, and this January the sale fever has run particularly high, and extraordinary bargains have been the topic of conversation at the sympathetic hour of four o'clock, when tea and confidential-matters are discussed. The: wise woma.n v like Mrs John Gilpin, who has'a- frugal,mind, looks about her now for a hundred and one articles she- will need, and which can be purchased at nearly halfprice. Do not buy anything merely because it appears" cheap if it is. not pretty and in good style. But now that you practically know what portion of your wardrobe is still wearable, it is a good scheme to make out a list of what you must, have for that awkward between. time when it is, too early to begin getting things for the winter 'and too latp to add to this summer's wardrobe. ' The felt toque is td be one of the favourite styles.of headgear, made of soft felt-like cloth,, in swathed folds,, generally a couple of choux of mirror, velvet at the side. These choux are made like gathered rosettes of doubleci; velvet, the frills quite four inches wide. Sometimes one chou will be cf a dark shade and the other of a paler tone of the same colour. StitcH-

ing is greatly in vogue for the decora* tion of the latest millinery, especially stitched velvet, the stitching1 being either white or in a light colour. Large hats are very much worn,- and those of the Directoirer style, often tied under the chin. The hat of velvet or panne bent down back and. front has the double virtue of being exceed*' ingly becoming and extremely smart, Such a, one is illustrated here. The straight brim (of white buckram coy«. ! ered with black velvet) has a satincovered wire put on,rather tightly; this assists the hat to. take a becoming. curve. Four good ostrich feathers , trim it, centred with a big...cho.u of. turquoise blue tulle,, pressed through, a golden buckle and carried round the hat behind, and appearing again under one side. A dainty ■. trifle is the^big white mousseline bow tied under my \' lady's chin. This with white satin . revers to a black*, coat,,, the revers.. strapped . with narrow . Tblatek satini bands, hath decided,charms to please. The high deep turnover collar at the' back too is one of the latest ideas.

But we must not. confine our talk altogether ito.Sjthefj-ajiy 'fairy trifles of Fashion, but remember., that it,is not always sunshine. and neat, and that the woman .who has, not a. warmer, heavier gown' in, ; her ward^ u robe, and yet. smart enough, for all ' sorts of occasion's," is not wise in her generation. One of the latest modes, of fastening, is • shown in. the frock

yon see here, and this also is a frock, that would prove "exceedingly useful^ It is made of the' new make of £hiel| cashmere, grey "in", colour, the trim- r; ming formed merely by "the stitcheiJ: revers, buttoning tabs; and tunic, The. buttons are steel, and' the'blouse.is"of: fine white muslin; 'pi. 'course the littta. silk-lined coat; can easily, be removed at will, or left linbnltoned, but looks, better closed. :••-■'■ *■■ • - '

For thin.and slender folk theprln*': cess form of gown is having, and will have, the greatest-favour.. But for tW|v style. : one must, possess a fairly good, figure, and the, perfection ■of dressy making- .skill,. The princess gown he" 'skeitched, which strikes a ■ decided note of elegance, is.of .grey silk, em" broidered with"a silken dot in relief. It is fastened all down, one" side with

'fßpss: "I don't,.^now,.^whethervto.:; discharge -that:new boy or. rais£ hi 3 salary." Manager: "What has hebeeii '/■■ doing?" Boss: "He rushed in my :pri- " vate office this morning and told roe there was a man downstairs .who ' would like to see me:" Manager: "Who. was it?" Boss: "A blind-man." .k