ANOTHER BLOUSE

Auckland Star, Volume XXIX, Issue 226, 24 September 1898, Page 1 (Supplement)

ANOTHER BLOUSE

Yet another blouse, ancl this time Avith the fashionable high collar.which renders it specially adaptable for street wear when the sun is kind enough to tempt us to go Avithout a bulky jacket or cape. It is wonderful hoAv Avarm such a blouse as this maybe made if it is lined with domette as

AA-ell as silk or linen, the clomette forming an interlining betAveen the lining and the bodice itself. Another feature of this blouse is the Avay in which it is cut in front, a full lace frill, Avhich also forms an epaulette upon the left shoulder, falling from Vandykes edged with fur. Three handsome buttons are aso used upon the bodice.

A number of ladies are having their last winter cloaks put in order for carriage wear. The necessity for warm wraps Avhen one drives is beingrecognised more generally than heretofore, and fashion has for once done a notably Avise thing in prescribing thick "garments for driving, instead of the natty ancl dressy capes and wraps that used to be considered the proper thing because they were spring novelties.

A cape of velvet is elaborately trimmed with very rich galloon. The decoration is carried to.a pitch that almost suggests excess. In addition to the galloon there is an edging of rich lace, Avhich is gathered very full and so adjusted that the lower edge, of the

lace and the edge of the garment meet. A feature of such trimming seems to be to place it not beloAv the edge of the garment but even with it. Velveteen and light-weight corduroy I are among* the most popular materials I for dresses for girls. In most inI stances they are made with yoke of I embroidery or possibly of plaited or j tucked plaid silk or satin. I The high standing collar appears i ag-ain on indoor and out-of-door gar- ! merits alike. Some of them are so high ancl ag-gressive that they suggest midAvinter models rather than the coming of summer. Hats are remarkable for the absence of ribbon in their trimming. Soft materials, either plain or figured, are preferred, and these are used in puffs, loops, rolls, and large soft bows ancl rosettes. Shoes are less pointed than heretofore. Heels are rather low and broad, and the moderately heavy walking shoe has become one of the indispensable articles of every lady's outfit. The regulation cape is made so as to stand out from the shoulders like a rain-shed, 'the more flare the more fashion' seeming to be the idea in they;' making up. Several dresses have, been finished with yokes of solid embroidery and. braid. If these are at all of open design they are lined with bright satin or silk. This stylish skirt may be expressed in a Avatered fabric, and can also be made in cashmere or canvas, ancl, by a little extra contrivance, in silk. The foundation is really the tablier, Avhich is in one piece, joining up the centreback. In this skirt, also, the lining is cut by the" same pattern, and the two made up together. A piping of velvet-

and heading of passementerie are mostly employed' to outline the flounces; indeed, pipings, if they are thick enough, can do no harm just at present. Three yards and three-quarters of double-Avidth material, or ten and a half of silk, Avill cut this skirt. -j This stylish bodice of French plaid woollen that matches the skirt shbAvs a charming colour combination of different shades of sage green, with burnt orange and golden broAvn, dark green velvet ribbon and frill of narrow brown taffeta providing the sash and band decoration. The full yoke portion and crush collar is of golden brown taffeta, small gilt buttons joined by loops of cord adorning the front of blouse. Smooth-fitted lining-s that close in centre front provide a foundation for this dressy bodice. The full portion is gathered top and bottom and arranged at the neck to round yoke depth, closing invisibly at the left shoulder. The blouse fronts and back fit smoothly at the top, where they are included in the shoulder seams, the under-arm seams are joined separately, and gathers at the loaver edge tacked to the lining give a pouched effect all round. Graceful puffs top the close-fitting, two-seanied

sleeves that are decorated at the Avrists to match the front. Striking combinations of material and colour can be developed by the mode, which is as suitable for gingham or other cotton fabrics as for avool or silk. If the silk is used the full yoke could be of chiffon or mousseline de soie, with fine plisse of same for edging. If cotton goods are used, the full yoke can be omitted and a smooth covering of allover lace or embroidery be substituted. Insertion and a frill of lace or embroidery edging Avould provide suitable decoration. A hem on the lower edge of blouse, Avith draAV strings insertedjWOuld make laundering an easy matter, and a sash of ribbon Avorn at the Avaist Avould g-ive added style. To cut this bodice for a miss of 14 years, tAvo yards of material 44 inches Avide will be required, with three- ; eights of a yard for the full yoke. ROSELLE.

iSUFFLEMENT.)