LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

Auckland Star, Volume XXIX, Issue 54, 5 March 1898, Page 1 (Supplement)

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

(From Our London Correspondent.)

veryAvhere one is talking of what to wear, an d especially in "ranee. In Paris !, present almost ill the hats are worn tilted so much over one ear that they give the Avearer a kind of devil - may - care expression. Never did our millinery promise to ne more artistic and altogether in better taste than this Avinter, Avhen many pearl-grey felt and velvet shapes Avill be noted amongst the more brightlytinted hats. On many of the moderately large black confections Aye shall see drapings of either ' Chartreuse' green, skyblue, cerise, or the neAv 'coral' pink, Avhich is also being reproduced in some of the newest artificial flowers, such as chrysanthemums. These picturesque folds are to be 'mostly carried out, I believe, in the new 'crushed' or 'crinkled' velvet, with which a variety of charming effects are obtainable. This material is, indeed, to be the trimming ' par excellence' on firstrate millinery. Some of the latest brims are edged rather elaborately. For instance, the other day, at a grand afternoon concert, I much admired somebody in a poppy-red felt bordered Avith a three-inch wide fold of corded black ribbon, draAvn in at intervals Avith narrow straps of the same silk. Nevertheless some of the daintiest hats

from the Gay Capital have no binding at all round the edge. The illustration slioavs one of the freshest modes in French millinery. The shape is a soft felt one in the most exquisite nuance of pearl grey ; and round the croAvn is a drapery of velvet in the same delicate tone. Above the tips, in a shade darker than the velvet, is another ostrich plume coloured to match the felt, the aigrette also being en suite with the pearl-grey portion of the hat. Under the turned-up brim is a roAv of cerise silk dahlias, which just prevents a tone of undue severity.

The ' Army ' bonnet, Avith which Aye have long been threatened, has come out, but Avill probably go in more hastily. From the initial, it Avill be seen, it is greatly glorified (in a chiffon sense), dmt •itis a hideous thing at the best, and not at all likely to catch on. The model is of black straAv, has a Avreath of pink poppies inside 'the brim, bows of wired (white)slace and poppies outside, and strings of black velvet.

A particularly ladylike dark red is another fresh ' nuance' for this Avinter. How cheery the colour will look on a grey, bleak day, when the dinginess of the atmosphere makes one long for notes of brilliancy ! Many of the latest Paris models in the blouse-coat style are fashioned in sombre red cloth or serge, strips of black Persian

lamb or astrakan looking charming on such a background. Better than A Avritten description is the illustiation- oi the design I have in mind. This loose jacket is modelled in dark red habit cloth. A pretty pattern |is traced by means of some broad and I narrower black mohair braiding, the cosy i wintry touch being provided by the double row of black astrakan doAvn the front. The j collar is very artistically shaped, and the ! blouse is drawn in Avith a handsome thick black Duchesse satin ' ceinture' draAvn through a gilt buckle. Such a model will suit most women, as it is essentially economical as Avell as ' chic,'

According to the excellent counsels given on the stage, velvet in soft rich shades is going to be much Avorn this Avinter, and

particularly in conjunction Avith narroAA' bands of fur applied in hold Vandykes on the skirt. What lovely skating and driving costumes we shall have, by the Avay, in emerald green and violet velours ornamented with mink or sable ! But front such costly frocks the average young lady had better turn her attention to the neAV Avlnte poplin, neatly checked with black. This rnateriu], associated Avith black A'elvet trimmings and a long sash, makes up

into capital afternoon dresses. Another Avinter novelty, for both outdoor and indoor Avear, is the Avarm-toned velveteen, either striped or checked Avith metallic lines. I have seen a very pretty illustration of this mode in rich 'tile' blue patterned with a copper check. At tlie side a dark apricot velontine faintly striped Avith silver lines also struck one as essentially artistic. The blurred velvets Avith a light ground are far too suggestive of furniture and windoAV draperies to be considered really chic, and they require a very line figure to carry them, off to any advantage. In the Avay of new trimmings I must not forget to mention the fashion of shaded braids. But to look at all stylish these fancy gal oons should be of the very first quality. More to the taste of the average English maiden will be braids of different colours associated On one gown^ Black mohair trimming laid over-white braiding of a broader make looks.extremely smart, and so does navy-blue braid mixed with scarlet. * A third element, in the shape of fine metallic threads, is also introduced in this neAV style of garniture. In mantles the season's wear includes the blouse - coat, ■ three - quarter jacket, and the full-length confection. The rrtodelin my sketch is an attractive specimen of the neAV fashion. Here we see a long, beautifully-cut coat in powder-blue habit cloth. It is rather elaborately hemstitched, and the llap pockets and characteristic rovers give it a certain cachet of distinction. The fastening cloavh the front is, of. course, quite invisible, while a brown crocodile leather belt draws in the slight fulness of the bodice portion. AVhether the redingote should be lined is a question of personal taste. EOSELLE. |