Latest London Fashions.

Auckland Star, Volume XXII, Issue 139, 13 June 1891, Page 4 (Supplement)

Latest London Fashions.

(From Our Special Correspondent.)

London, April 23, We are enjoying fibful glimpses of spring, and vague rumours of now styles reach us. As far as 1 can see, however, the winter fashions which I am sending you as still appropriate for your colony are only being reproduced in thinner materials for our spring garments. I was in Brighton (London by the sea, as it ia frequently called) bhe obher day, and was so much struck with some very stylish bonnebs bhab I made a skebch ab one of bhe leading milliners bhere (where all dress andmillinery designs are so exceptionally chic and sbylish), of a charming libble bonneb, which makes our firsb skebch. This waa composed offoldedand slighblypuffedscarlet velveb, somewhab toque shape, bhe folds bending upwards and parbing jusb in fronb, to admib a rabher large butterfly in beaded jeb between. The strings were of narrow scarlet velveb ribbon, fastened at the tied bow by a jetted brooch.

A design for a very elegant dress is shown in my second sketch. This model may appear ab first bo my reader rather a difficult one to carry out, but I do nob think a libble explanation will prove ib beyond the abbainments of an averagely good dressmaker. The bodice is cub, in firsb instance, as an ordinary plain one, and the under vest is let into ib, V-shape, the whole fastening from throat to point of basque straight down the front by " slip " hooks and eyes, easily rendered unnoticeable.

The braiding or embroidery is worked on to the plain bodice, so as to give the appearance of an over Zouave jacket, the deep cuffs matching. The model of this sbylish gown was of grey cloth, wibh grey silk under-bodice, and sbeel embroidery, grey corded girdle and sbeel drops ab bhe ends ; bub ib could be made in a variety of other materials, still with pleasing effect. Grenab red with red silk and black braiding ; myrtle green and black braid; terra cobba and bronze em broidery .would all make up very well. Combination costumes or pabbern dresses prevail among novelbies. Camel'- hair, armnre and homespun cloth in double widths have a border along one edge, either in tartan plaids, rows of narrow velveb interwoven bo look as if sewed on, bands of Astrachan or .rise stripes. Sometimes bhere will be Vandykes of braiding in combination with Astrachan, and the most expensive of all pattern robes has sleeves and corsage trimming wrought on bo resemble passementerie. Other wool materials are pleasantly suggestive of the bounttes so popular several seasons back. Whether as bi-jn cloth the roughest, will

be more attractive than soft bourette, or camel's hair with a rough finish, is questionable, but the fabric promises satisfaction from ibs qualiby, colourings and general character.

An elegant example of the Louis XV. jaquette is made of velvet or faced cloth and brocade. Mouse-grey velvet for tba jacket, with rolling collar fastened just below the bust with two buttons, and a closefitting waistcoat of silver-grey brocade, overrun with a little steel and silver, ara an elegant combination for this form of garment. The waistcoat is fastened to the throat wibh smaller buttons than those upon tha jacket, and they should be the traditional Louis XV. buttons, which are enamel painbj ings of beautiful female heads seb in cub silver. Porbfolio pockets of the velvet are placed op the waistcoat so as to show half beyond the coat fronbs, and the jacket has close sleeves with deep cuffs of the A full jabot or double cascade of lace i* added to the throat and falls jusb below tho buat, :

Mantles are made so fancifully this year that very greab varieby is ab.ainable, and also more "than usual ease in making last winter's look fresh for this (when a new one cannot well be afforded), for ibis so much easier bo insinuate new material ia the place of shiny or faded portions, where full fronts, fancy sleeves, and gaugings are conspicuous. My last sketch is from a Parisian model I saw the other day. Ib waa in biscuibcoloured cashmere, wibh collar and under sleeves o. bronze-coloured velvet or plush.

The fronb, ib will be seen, has a gauged yoke and full fronb gabhered on to ib, bhe half "angel" sleeves being also gabhered on to the shoulders, forming a frill above ia same way as fronb. With this is worn a bronze velvet or plush bonnet, with bronze beaded coronet and tips, the muff being tied up with a biscuib-coloured satin ribbon. Women are emulating men in their dasire for broad shoulders. All the newest coats and mantles are built with a view to assuming this virtue if the wearer havo i_ nob, and exaggerating ib where ib already exisbs. The resb of the figure is made quibe subsorvienb to the shoulders. They are puffed and trimmed and given pro' minence to, while the other portions of tha garment are made as simple and flat aa may be. The much-vexed question of the waisb can be laid aside for the present, since thab portion of feminine anatomy is no longer specially subject to the caprices of fashion. A wide waist is no reproach in comparison with narrow shoulders. Modistes will not allow any favoured client to exhibit a wanb of bhe requisibe breadbh. Forbunately, the matter ia more easily manageable than was the greab waist dif_U culty. Height is to certain extent as necessary as breadth, and what was once the undesirable condition known as having " Bhouldera up to your ears " is now quits, the mode.

During last year leather kept every notn and then appearing as trimming, some* times as application, ab others as edging, etc., for dresses, and attempts were even made to introduce leather waistcoats, revers, and cuffs, which were highly re-l commended for durability. And now out leaders of fashion declare that natural-} coloured leather sleeves are to exceedj everything meant by the expressions " chic-' and pchutt," and are indeed " tching." TO3 attain this desirable appellation the sleeveay should be cut high ab bhe shoulder, and-: worn wibh a half-tighb-fitting paletot of thick piled plush of tho same colour;----and, to say the least, the effect of tbe combination is really very sbylish. A small leather bonnet with prebby bows this original toilebte. Rosellb. .'"