Impressions of a Trip to Tonga.

Auckland Star, Volume XVII, Issue 218, 16 September 1886, Page 3

Impressions of a Trip to Tonga.

What Mr Balcor has Done for tho Islands.

\\ niLE vieitintj Fiji, where I had previously beon a resident for many years, the opportunity offered of a trip to Tonga, in the Union Company's steamer Suva. The Government of Fiji, desiring to form closer commercial rotations with tho Tongan Kingdom, induced the Union Company to extend their intcsrinsular service by making a trip to Tonga once a month, and this was the preliminary attempt—with the promieo of tho continuance for 12 months ehould businese justify it. The temptation was too strong to/resist, and a few hours' preparation fo'jU.i us ready to embark onboard that most l*dly little craft, the s.s. Suva. Among our passengers were a Government official, on a diplomatic mission connected with the arrangement of a customs tariff betwoen tho colony and the kingdom, tho agent of tho Onion Company in Levuka, who proceeded on Company's service, and others of less note, but altogether forming a jovial party who were determined to have a good time. Government officials as a rule are not remarknblo for either urbanity or good fellowship, but our passenger, however smart in his official position, was the best of company afloat, and the skipper — Captain Crawßhaw—could not well bo improved on, from taking a "lunar" to telling a yarn. The Union Company has notmanywho canEurpass him in either <vay. A sea trip among the Islands of the South Seas ia only equalled by a yachting cruise in the Mediterranean; no sei-sickness, bright skies and 3mooth seas, and often a run of five days, including delays, by calling at vaiiouß Islands on our route, to receivo or discharge cargo. Wo sighted Tonga and passing through the opening in the reef, entered into tho almost land locked harbour of Nukualofa. We passod tho island which was thrown up by volcanic agoncy in November last, which haa grown from a speck on tho ocoan to an island 2ooft. high, and ia daily increasing in size. Tho activity of tho volcano still continues, varying in intensity, somo daj-B very slißht and other days as active as at first. The morning that wo passod, a dark cloud overhung the crator, and jets of vapour wero ojoetod every few minutes many hundred of foot into tho air, but with no flame nor accompanied by any noise. Tho Island had boon boon formally takon possession of by tho Tongan Government a fow months provious, and the Tongan flag still waved ou a conspicuous point. Aftor a short dolay from quarantine roscription wo satisfied tho health authorities and tho word was given to lower tho boats and land tho passongora.

Tho Town of Nukualofa

is approached by an excellent and most subBtniv.iil wharf 1,000 feet in length, and with tho oxcoption of about 40 foot at the sea end entirely built of coral blocks—tho work of nativoH solely. Tho Bea end ia composed of p 1 )8 and titnbor, and stoamers drawing up to '22 foet can be discharged at low tido. A double line of tramway runs the lougth of tho wh^rf into sheds, and from there a single line cf rails run 9 along tho beach for nearly a mile, with Hidings continuod into each bueiscs* establishment — aud goods discharged from the vessel at tho ond of tho wharf are unladen into the merchants' stores without being removed from Iho trucks. Tho appearance of tho to'vn ia very attractive, more rjsembling an English sea eido villago in summor than a South Sea settlemoat. Tho street or esplanade which facea tho sea id covered with a fine, abort grass and planted with adoublo row of troos protected by onclossd foncing—irom tho horses, who might otherwiso destroy them, and the shore ia built up by a eoa-wall eurrouudod with an ornamental whito foncing, which gives a moat finished appearance to the scene—ulonj; this beach road aro built tho Government oflices, tho " Kings church " aud "I'alace " and eovoral private housos, tho residences of the l'remior, Mr Baiter, and othors. Tho most striking feature at first sight is tho extreme cleanness of everything, including tho streets, which looked as if they had beoo swept that vory morning in honour of our arrival. The first duty after paying our respects to rbo Premier was a tour of inspection through tho town, but as I intended remaining some time in Tonga, my first care was to provide myself with quarters, and to my surprise I found there w,u neither hotel nor acommodation houso of any description, as visitors heretofore had boon bo few, uo necessity for such had existed. This, however, is being rectified, and a large hotol is now in courso of erection. Tho usual custom was, I found, to secure a email cottago, which I was fortunate onough to got after some troublo, and although not largo was cemmodious and easily furnished. Among tho first objects of intorost visited, was tho King's Church, a hand.-omo building, and, in an architectural point of view, a credit to any cotnmuni'y. It reminded mo very much of tit. Mark's, Komuera, and was built undor the supervision of an Auckland builder assisted by nativo workmon. The interior simply st ruck me dumb with amazement. Tho elaborate pew fittings and pulpit, witk tho raised dais and throne for the King, are certainly not surpassed if equalled in tho city of Auckland. Of course, thoy ali areimported, and wtro, I think, tho workmanship of tho New Zealand Timber Company. Adjoining the church, and in the eaiie enclosure, U the Solace, built in the

villa style, and handsomely furnUbui throughout. Some short distanco down tho beach the Roman Catholic mission havo ortctod a very substantial chapel built of coral blocks, sawn squaro, and tho front carved in relief with vurioiu designs. Thoodifico hasbcon seven years in progros?, and is entirely tho work of tho teachers and studenis engaged in the schools of their mission. Tho two Fathers" under whoso direction tho work ia carried on are, as is generally found in tho South Sea", "self denying honorablo mon " — and perfect "gentlemen" of the hightest typo A convent presided over by "Sisters ot Mercy," instructs the female portion of the community. One of tho most staking peculiarities to iind in a small placo like Tonga was tho virulent religious dispute, which not only possessed all the re-idonts but as to which they immediately insisted on every visitor taking ono side — " Under which King Begoniau.Uve or die ?' was the first question,and the reply decided the section of tho community who took you up, tbo other side looking upon you aa a " lost ahoep." Without entering into tho merits of the dispute, as to which would be out of place in a sketch like thia tho whole affair has a very ludicrous aspect to a visitor from its intensity- a very storm in a tea pot. But it is tho all-absorbing topic, and is equally shared by tho Europeans and the natives. Like most other religious questions, it is much mere political than ecclesiastical, and tho "almighty dollar" is not altogetherabeent from the question.

At other notable objoct of interest i 3 the "Colloeo" for training tho young sons of chiefs and young mon who show epecial ability for tho sorvico of tho Church or State. Thero are ■100 sludonts under instruction, and at the examination hold while I was thoro, tiny showed a high degree of proficiency in various branches of education, quite equal to that of boys in our own echoole. The civil service is recruited from the most advanced pupils, and as all tho Government officials, from tho chief justice down, are " Tongans," a largo scope is open to native ambitiou. The law courts are conducted with gravity and decorum, and if the dcci siona are not always " good law " they at all ovents satisfy thd native want and admit of no appeal. To write about Tonga without mentioning tho "Premier" would certainly be "Uamlet'' with the Princo of Denmark lefb out, and tho present advanced state of tho kingdom is largely due to the unwearied energy of Mr Shirley Baker. That gontloman and his horse are certainly the hardest-worked individuals in a not very hard-working community, and his buggy is met with at every hour from daybreak till lcmg after " dewy eve." The medical ofEoor of the kingdom, an Auckland gentleman, Dr. Buckland, is also a general favourite with both races, and his services are highly appreciated by tho " King " and hi 3 subjects. I have not touched on the delightful climate or the products of the soil, as I am afraid I have already exceeded the limitd of one article On some future occasion I may enlarge on them, and the future prospect of Tonga as a field for settlement.