Autumn Fashions in Paris.

Auckland Star, Volume XXVI, Issue 265, 14 November 1885, Page 5

Autumn Fashions in Paris.

Ant further exaggeration in the height of chapeaux or of their trimmings, as at present arranged in front of t!ho crown, boingapparently impossible, many modistes in searcfl of novelty now place the garnitures on the top of a moderately high crown or put them at the back where they attain to a greater height and fall ovjr the top of the crown towards the front. Nearly all the hata worn now are made of straw, the most fashionable being those of yellow straw veiled with yellow tulle to match, and trimmed with a quantity of bowa of moiri) ribbon, rising at the back of the hat to ,tho crown, with a few loops falling ovev in front.

A similar model in bronze straw, but witli a very high and narrow crown, has a scarf of beige crnpe or silk muslin folded round the crown, and onding at the back under a> long plume of feathers, the tips of which quite conceal the flat top of the crown, and fall over it a little in front. In these hats tho brim in front is wide and straight, but very short at the back and turned up a little.

Light coloured straws are those generally prefsrred, either in the natural colour, or in light biego, ivory, a red shade of beige, and Bimilar colours. The brim at the back is frequently turned up, like a curtain, and lined with bronze, brown, ot black velvet; the lining of the front part of the brim matches this, but the trimming of faille, crepe, gauze, &c, is in the samo colours ac the straw, and often arranged in bows or loops far baolt on tho top of the crown. Roses and other flowers are placed in the. same position. Many of the hats are very large, but more reasonable shapes are beginning to make their appearance, and as tho immensely high or largo hate are only be-coming-to a few types of face, the smaller niodels will be quickly appreciated and adopted. Theae n6\v hats of moderate dimensions are trimmed witli a band of faille or velvet round the crown, and a bouquet of flowers and grasses at tho side.

Capotes are still made of every variety of tissue, from gold network to plaited Btraw, which may or may not bo intermingled with gold or silver. The prettiest and simplest models are trimmed with bows of ribbon, and small light bunches of flowers tied up with ribbon. Largo heavy masses of flowers are now rarely seen, either on hats or capotes. The skill of the tailor is more and more appealed to for the costumes that arc to follow the light toilettes of batiste and lace, rendered necessary by an almost tropical heat. Thero is an undeniable charm about these simple, correct, austerelooking costumes, which are elegant io spite of their austerity, that will ensure a long continuance of favour to these productions of English tailors. The skirts of tailor-made costumes are round and full, and mounted on silk foundation skirts. The tunic is an unpretending draped tablier, completed at the back by a pleatod breadth, raised a trifle on one side,, or on'both sides, but very full at the'waisfc and nearly covering the back of the skirt. As to the bodice, it moulds the bust with the most perfect accuracy; not a fold, not tho shadow of a crease, is to be found in its faultless fit, resembling that of a habit; bodice. It is sometimes fastened straight down the front with little round buttona put on close together, in other caseß it opona over a waistcoat of white pique", ot a pleated chomisotto, made of white crOpe, or els 9of silk in a colour that offers an agreeable con tra»t to tho dresa material

A new costume, the Papalin, ranks' with tailor-made dresses for general utility, and 13 a very practical model made in dark-hued woollen fabrics, mohair, and similar materials. The skirt is pleated in wido pleats, and falls straight from the waist. The shortwaisted corsage joins the Bkirt under a waistband of ottoman or moire ribbon tied in a large bow, with long ends at the back. The dress is completed by a Papalin mantelet in the Bame material as the dress, cut like a short pelerine, with a pointed hood falling from the Bhoulders. Both the mantelet and the hood aro linod with silk,, but the costume has no other ornaments or trimmings to detract from its absolute simplicity of style. Canvas and network fabrics will bo worn throughout the autumn ( in combination with faille Francaiso, faillo Chinoise, ond. other plain Bilken materials, and, although the majority of dresses are in two colours, many, and these not the least ladylike aud stylish, aro in one colour only. Horizontal stripes in the eaine colour as tho dress material, or in one or more contrasting hues, are decidedly fashionable. Thus an ontiroly new model has a plain full skirt of blue gros grain, with horrizontel baids in two shades of nastmtium colour, a, dark, rich brown in the centre, and dark gold colour on each side of it-. The tunic is of blue woollen network material full and draped, but short on tho loft side, and terminating in a long pointed end ; a similar but shorter end starts from the right fido of the tournure,. and the two are knotted together below the hip on the right side, tho pointed ends being tipped with yellow and brown tassels. At the back in a long full drapery of tho not. The tight-fitting jacket is of silk bordered with a coloured band resembling those on tho skkfc. Jt is cut equ.ve on the chest, and the right front crosses over and is fastened on the left side ; from thin point the jacket opens again, showing a full chemisette of woollen net cat with the tunic. Tho sleeves and neck aie trimmed with a coloured band in the two nasturtium shades.

Great- discretion will bo needed by the wearers of horizontal stripes : they are bocoming to very tall and slender figures, but when adopted by ladies of medium or of low stature, they are apt to give tho appearance of a barrel, an effect which can only be remedied by tho draperies of the tunic falling over and obliterating the lines in parts, so that they are nowhere seen in their full extent, from the waiet to the edge. Crossway stripes are also fashionable, and are often found in combinations of four or five different colours, all rather bright in tone but harmoniously blended. These ttriped fabrics are never employed alone, but are made up with plain silk or woollen materials; the striped fabric is used for the draperies, and is arranged in several ways, in horizonta', perpondicular, and bias lines,—From " My ra'a Journal."