Left town for Taranki at half past 3 in the afternoon. A lovely quiet evening, with a serene sky and bright atmosphere; the whole countryside looking beautiful in the extreme; the occasional undulations in the dales and valleys beautifully clothed with luxuriant verdure and shubbery; with the high Taranaki mountain towering over the plain, making an impressive contrast with the still and silent ocean, whose varied changes afford proofs of the wisdom of its great Creator. I often think, if I were a stranger to the various objects that present themselves, in travelling this route that I might more carefully note and observe the various prospects that the eye wanders over; but from being habitually with them, they are often passed unobserved, unless something more than usually attractive should draw the attention. The view inland of Tapuwai. or the new Pah, is certainly equal in beauty to the most cultivated scenery. The gradual undulation of the level country, and the immense extent of it that is covered with schrubs and plants, add to the other attractions of the scene. It cannot be supposed that such an extent of country was ever intended to lay waste, when its original occupiers are dead and gone, and the remnant unable to use or occupy the country. Slept at Wareatea in Bollard's tent, and had a comfortable supper of roast fowls, tea, etc., provided by R.Brown. Started from Umuroa to Otumatua, where we had breakfast. Dined at Kaupakunui, and after searching for the road among the overgrown place, got in to Mr. Woon's Mission station about 7 in the evening. Dressed and washed. Left Mr. Woon's about 10 a.m. and had a good washing in the tide, as we passed under the cliffs to Rangatapu. At Waingore, we found a few natives. The next place we stopped at was Anataua's, the principal chief of Ngatirionui. At Inuigahoi, where we dined, called at Manuawapo, and slept at Nitikau. Started about 6 in the morning to Patea. Detained there for some time, waiting for a canoe. Crossed about 8 a.m. Got to Tihoi, and rode from there to Waitotara, where the natives received me very kindly. Slept here for two hours, and rode on to Wanganui. Slept at Capt Campbell's. Met Mr. McDonald and Wallace droving cattle to Taranaki. The Wanganui people in good spirits. The troops keep money floating about, and everything is brisk, but artificial. No cultivation going on, or land settled, for the anxiety now seems to be general that the promise for paying for the land should be fulfilled. Dressed, and crossed over to Mr. Taylor's. Found them all well, and received an invitation to dine there. Saw several of the natives, who seem much disappointed that I have not come to pay them for the land. Pehi Niroa regretted very much taking any part in the late fights, and said he should not have done so, only for some slights of the Putiki people respecting him. ''Why were you not here to stop us?'' was his reply to me, when I gave him a lecture, and told him I could not shake hands with a man who took up arms against my country people, after his profession of friendship to me when I was last here. He said it was true - ''but do not scold me more, for I am ashamed of my own conduct.'' Tahaua proposes to accompany me to Wellington. Talked with the Putiki natives about the land. Dined at 7 p.m. It is a pity the land question is not settled in some shape or other, that it is becoming more deeply involved in difficulties, from the numerous claimants that are springing up, and who are legitimate claimants is quite obvious. There are now several classes of claimants in this place. The Wanganui people themselves may be divided into three, those of Putiki, Pehi, and Mamaku's party. Then come the Wangahu and Kai Iwi natives, all of whom must be paid, to ensure any safety, or secure possession to the unfortunate settlers, who always suffer when there is any mismanagement or want of judgement displayed in settling matters for them. But with patience they may endure, as most young colonists do some severe hardships; and we may soon expect that Providence will soon smile upon them, and make their prospects as bright and happy as their misfortunes are severe and sorrowful. Wrote to Dr. Wilson, Capt. King, Mr. Webster, and St. Hill. On Monday to leave for Taranaki to take the letters. Left for Turakina in the afternoon... Got to Turakina about 8 at night, having led the horses over the Wangahu. A meeting of about 45 of the Ngatiapas were met at Turakina to offer their land for sale. They seem reasonable in their expectations, and could be easily dealt with for a large tract of cattle grazing land at a moder ate price, if they are the only claimants. The Ngatiapas, from a census taken by a Wesleyan catechist, of the number of adult males and females are as follows:- Adults. Males Females. Wangaehu 18 9 Turakina 14 13 Rangitikei 16 15 48 37 The above list does not include several Church natives and children, neither are heathen inserted at Rangitikei. The Church natives may be estimated at about - 37 males, and 40 females. Children may be estimated in the whole tribe at about 80, making a total estimate of 242. The land possessed by the tribe is particularly adapted, from its beautiful springs, for cattle stations. Spent Sunday at Turakina. A native Wesleyan Maori teacher here gave me an account of his being under the influence of witchcraft. He says he was first visited by the God or Spirit of the Ngatiraukawas, named Rongotikitiki; after which he got unwell, as if his feet were drawn asunder from his body, and as if he was wrenched in the body by Ngararas. This God continued to annoy him, in consequence of his having been ''Makutued'' at Wanganui, when taking pigs there. He also saw one of his fathers and some brothers, who had been dead for years; and his soul seemed entirely diverted from its usual objects and pursuits. He was at length taken to a woman living at Oroa, named Matamomoka, whose son Matei had been dead for years, and appeared to her giving her power to cure diseases. She was notoriously successful in performing those witchcraft cures, till her son's spirit disappeared, when she lost the power. The land the Ngatiapa tribe wish to sell is from Wangahua to Turakina, and goes inland about 12 or 14 miles to a place named Wirengapopia. The Ngatiapa are now about 200 strong, according to their own calculation, so that their numbers must exceed what I have taken down. They make very kind professions to Europeans, if they should settle here, that they should not quarrel with them as other tribes do. Left Turakina Pa at 7 in the morning, and got to Rangitikei Pa, Te Eauaua Hakeka's place, about 10 a.m. This chief told me that Iwikau, the Heuheu, left there on Saturday, and was very annoyed about Hakeka selling his land to the Europeans. I was sorry I did not see this Chief who had only left there two days before. Heuheu's conversation had no influence on the Ngatiapa chief, whi is most anxious to dispose of his land. He has erected a house for Dr. Best, of Manawatu, who intends having a cattle station there. This gentleman tells me that it is only within the last year and a half that Hakeka has had a voice in the land which Watanui, the Ngatiraukawas chief claimed by conquest, and erected a pole on the Turakina river to show his boundary. This land, however, has been now relinquished by the conquerors; and the Ngatiapa boundary is now acknowledged to come After Evening Service, came to Warea, Mr. Riemensnider's place, and found he was at Pungaherehere, preaching to the natives. His German farmer was the only person I found at the place, and who soon displayed the hospitality and frankness, for which his country people are deserving the general merit they receive. After refreshment - or indeed before I had well sat down - the old German seemed greatly delighted at the presence of an acquaintance; and entered on a long history of events in his broken English, of which I could only understand a few within 4 miles of Manawatu, to a small stream named Kuputara, which has a bush near it that designates the spot from the beach. I am told that Kaipara-te-hau of the Rangitane tribe, is now living up the Rangitikei river with several followers, but does not advance a claim to the land. This chief says those confirm the impression of the Ngatiapas that their lands will be occupied by natives having no claims, but who fall back here from the south when they dispose of their own possessions, or when they quarrel with the tribes they live among. At Manawatu, which appears from the entrance of the river, a very sandy place (which like most places on the West coast, improves no doubt, as you go inland) the settlers are entirely living on native sufferance, paying them small sums of money or food, for permission to get their cattle run; and they seem to consider themselves perfectly secure under the protection of Taratoa and other chiefs of the river, who no doubt consider it a beneficial and lucrative means of reaping a return from their hitherto waste lands. The protection thus afforded seems to be more efficient than what any Government could, in the present state of the country, afford. Nor do I suppose that it would be now an easy matter to obtain by purchase the lands from which these benefits are derived. This place and the Wairarapa are yielding such handsome annual payments to the natives, which is entirely under their own control, without the interposition of any Government, but that of the chief. So that no trifling consideration would induce them to relimquish their rights in favour of the Government, without still claiming the privelege of receiving the pittance allowed them by the settlers. There are about 75 tons of wheat grown by the natives on this river, for which they will get a very handsome return, as they are now receiving 2/6 and 3/5 according to quality, for it. 3335 bushels £600. I met Te Whero Whero at the mouth of this river, and had a conversation with him about the intended migration of the Ngatiawas to their Taranaki country, to which he seemed to think they should return. I mentioned to him that Taonui and others objected to their returning, but he did not seem to think much of that. He gave me a most comfortable meal of tea, bread and potatoes and fish. This man, who is the principal chief in the Island, is a most graceful, fine old chief. He waits for me on the coast till I return, when he accompanies me to Taranaki. I gave him an order on Watt's of Wanganui, for a bag of flour, 100 lbs; and 20 lbs. of sugar. After leaving this chief, I came up to Mr. Robertson's to spend the night. After breakfast with Capt. Robertson, crossed the Manawatu about 7, dried the horses, and got under way about 8. The road from the crossing-place to the beach is good; and the beach is of a beautiful hard description of sand that does not seem to change in character, as many of of the beaches about the west coast do. Met a large party of Ngatiruanui natives returning from a road on which they were employed. The fruits of their labour seemed to be composed of burdens of various descriptions of European clothing. Met some of the Ngatiraukawas. After I had been making a fruitless search for Rangihaeata at his Pah on the beach, I concluded probably he is back on his inland grounds. Otaki is a beautiful settlement, under the shelter of a range of mountains that enclose the whole of the coast. Mr. Williams, son of Archdeacon Williams, clergyman at this place, requested me to stay to dinner, which I did, visiting the various cottages built by the natives, and what they call the township. That is - the sections of land that have been laid out by the Government. Rauparaha, the old chief notorious for treachery, deceit, and every skilful artifice that enables him to seduce his hitherto blind followers, is a man low in stature, not exceeding 5 ft. 3 or 4 ins; sharp countenance, quick eye, and artful look. Indeed his countenance, although it has nothing on it of peculiar interest, fully indicates that he is a man of considerable ingenuity, and quick perception. He talked to me of the names of places at Taranaki as if he had been born there; spoke of his having had a hand in the construction of the large church now building at Otaki; regretted Heuheu's death; denied having run there from Waikato; mentioned hid having put the whole coast to rights witht the troublesome natives who occupied it, and possessed the land himself. His evasion of the Taupo question is one that throws the imputation of a coward, in native estimation, on his character; and consequently he denied it, showing me clearly that he is not at a loss to prevaricate when occasion requires. It is evident, from what Whero Whero told me yesterday, that Rauparaha's influence for evil is fast on the decline; that neither he nor Rangihau induce the Ngatiraukawas to give up their religious pursuits for war; and it is very evident that the progressive improvement of the tribes with which these chiefs are connected, will place them in a precarious position to urge war with the race from whom these benefits are so easily derived, but that the intentions of the chiefs for revenging any wrongs, whether real or imaginery, they may have sustained, is still as strong as ever. But the imitative spirit of the native, when it once takes a proper direction, is sure to prevent any concentrated movement against us. The presence of troops at Wanganui, and a Police Station at Waikanae have a good effect with the natives. Arrived at Waikanae. Went to see the Chapel, which is a fine building, and impresses a person coming from the coast, where there are only moderately sized or small buildings, with an idea that the grandeur of ancient Jerusalem, and the energy of the builders of its Temple walls still remains among the last race to which the Gospel truths are now being propagated. How gratified I have been last night to find that Major and Mrs. Durie are both from Scotland, and most kind, friendly persons. They have recently met with a severe affliction in the loss of one of their young children, a girl of about 3 years old. Went to the Pa to see the natives. Saw William King. His seemed anxious about his Waitara land, and asked if I had come here to stop them from going to Taranaki Ihaia, from Waitara, made a very excellent speech in favour of our mission to this place; and so did Hemana, and words; but from that could make out that he was telling me what had occurred since I had seen him in the Interior twelve months ago; and really, though I did not understand him fully, he must have carefully related the most trifling incidents, from the time he was speaking. I watched an opportunity, while he paused, to introduce a subject that might shorten his discourse, but after two or three attempts, was unsuccessful, till at length, by good chance, an English book lay on the table, which was a real treat, preferable even to a dinner. After the honest man's prologue, which would not admit of interruption, even by an importunate native youth, who occasionally Matui, William King's brother. Indeed their conduct and determined manner in the midst of a large body of natives opposed to their proceedings, was most satisfactory. The substance of Ihaia's speech was to this effect:- ''You may look, and laugh at me, call me what names you like, a bad man among you all; but I have not done you any harm, landless as I may be. But those who have done the harm are the Chiefs''- enumerating the names of Kororo Wairamake, and others, who have sold the land..... ''And now the land is gone to all parts of the world'' - meaning the map on which the surveyed sections are shown. ''And now we can never get the land back again. My wish is to be guided by the person now standing in the midst of us. He is my parent. He has kept peace abroad among other tribes wherever he has travelled. He has done more to promote peace than all of us put together could do. See what he has done with the Waikatos, when they would invade us! He is my parent. Let him be a parent to all of us. He is no low man. Who is to pop up or over my parent standing in the midst of you?" ......... Although I have always a strong aversion to write whatever appears favourable to myself, I think the simple speech of a friendly, unsophisticated native, may, without impropriety, be inserted in my private journal. Hemara followed, with some slight variations, in the same strain. The last of our Taranaki party was Matthew, the second chief of Waikanae, a fine young man, well disposed, and very much under my guidance. He spoke well and to the point; and repeated that he was now one of Maclean's sons; and repeated a piece of poetry in favour of parting with the land to the Europeans. William King said that he would go with the first fair wind to Taranaki, the land of his fathers;... and would not part with any of it to the Europeans. He asked me what my talk was, but I told him that my talk must be postponed till I could see Governor Eyre, when we should have a Korero. Saw Mr. Duncan of Manawatu at Major Durie's. Left Major Durie's at 8 in the morning for Wellington; he leaving at the same time with Rev. Mr. Duncan for Manawatu, and from thence to inspect his policemen at Wanganui. Called at Jenkins' on the way. Ascended by the new line of road, which resembles very much the ascent to the Blue Mountains in New Holland; with deep ravines and gullies over a wild, mountainous country, rising gradually to about 300 ft. above the level of the sea. Met several parties of natives employed on the road, and witnessed a continued diversity of Mountain scenery similar to what is sometimes met with in the Highlands, particularly about the wild valleys of lovely Glencoe. The construction of this road, it is needless to say, is one of the greatest boons that can be bestowed on all the races in the Island, and generations yet unborn (if the prediction which I believe is recorded by some men of eminence, that the world is sure to come to an end, is not fulfilled) will have reason to regard this act of Capt. Grey's policy as of itself deserving of having his memory recorded in the minds of every well-wisher of this fair and flourishing Island of New Zealand. It is true that the road does not open up or explore much fine country. There is no available land in its neighbourhood, but still it is a road; and in all probability a better line could be found, as it is possessed of one desirable, important, good metal for road-making, that is both hard and durable. Found Mr. Mantile at the extreme end of the bush near Porirua, with a road party. Had some tea with him. He looks much better than he did at Taranaki. On the part of the road on which he is engaged, there is some level land, that might, and no doubt will, be at no distant period, cleared and occupied by some industrious Europeans. Got to Capt. Russell's party at Porirua, which, as far as the scenery of the bay goes, is very beautiful, and reminds me of one of the lakes in the North of Scotland, only that it has larger arms of water entering from the main bay in various directions, like the Great Barrier harbour at the North, only it has no islands. The road round the bay is very indifferent, being hard rock in some places; and soft muddy sand at a creek about half a mile from Paopaohaotanui, where the mare I rode, plunged, and obliged me to lead her over, getting up to the middle in water. Reached the bay; refreshed the horses at a house kept by a man married to a native woman, who acted the barmaid remarkably well; and although her husband was about, she seemed fully intent on the exaction of every farthing of dues charged in the house. I gave a feed of corn here to the horses, and they rode in smartly, at least mine came in smartly, to town; and the policeman following quietly with the little mare who was not shod. The first peep of Wellington harbour, as you descend the hills, is beautifully picturesque, and as we see few objects which cannot bear comparison, I think it has some to the Tobermory Bay in the West of Scotland, but a much lovelier place if it had a greater extent of fertile country, of which the coast within 40 miles of it is rather deficient, and the suburbs of the place altogether barren of good available roads. Called on my way on Druimuitoran, who I found in front of his little cottage at Kaiwarra, on the entrance to the town. I told him I was a nephew of the Rev. D. McColl's, an old acquaintance of his in the Highlands. He requested me to go into his house; knew my uncle well. But I declined going in till another day, as I was wet and weary after a long journey. Got to Bennett's Hotel; rather more comfortable than a bush life. Aminarapa got in with my clothes in the morning. Dressed after breakfast. Called on the Lieut. Governor. Delivered letters to him from Capt. Grey. Found him communicative and agreeable. He wished me to proceed without delay to Waikanae, and endeavour to arrange with the natives about the Waitara land question; when he will be glad to accompany me there, or follow me if there is any prospect of an arrangement being concluded. He had endeavoured to get them to accede to the division of the land, by making the river the boundary, but without success, as King determined that his tribe should occupy both sides of the river, where their claims were laid originally, and still existed, and descended to them individually and collectively. Called on Colonel Wakefield. Found him father dry and dissatisfied about the native reserves made at New Plymouth, and seemed to think that Governor's proceedings there did not in the slightest promote the good of settlement; and that the large blocks acquired were not in reality beneficial to them, as such vast reserves were made in them. I endeavoured to demonstrate that he was entirely under a false impression respecting the reserves; that they were necessary, and that the purchase he complained of in the Grey block, if so utterly valueless, was mostly surveyed by the Company for settlers. He then evidently began to change his tone, and removed his ground to a variety of other indifferent subjects. He is favourable to relinquishing the North banks of the Waitara, but strongly opposed to New Plymouth falling entirely into the hands of Government; and will not, of himself, agree to such an arrangement. Proud of Bell's conduct with the Government, in whatever points he may have gained with him. His influence in Wellington is gradually on the decline, but he certainly is a very clever intelligent man, and no doubt, in many respects, adapted to fill a situation where diplomatic ingenuity is required. He evidently is at heart, an opposer to all Government measures; and seems, from probably political motives, to be more favourable to the Lieut. Governor than the Governor-in-Chief. Talked of Taranaki as the most difficult place of any to settle, requiring a Governor's time of itself to the Land Question. Does not forget Wickstead's co-operation with Fitzroy, and will consequently feel proud of any officer of his who opposes Government measures. Called at Druimuitoran's. He has a fine family of children. His son Adam, is a fine lad, and so is his daughter Flora, a very fine girl, with very good manners. He knew my father well. Was with him in the Argyle Militia. Knows the remarked that the old man could speak fast enough in another language; but that it afforded him some pains and trouble to teach him to repeat any Maori with accuracy. In the evening the worthy host arrived, and right glad was I to see him. We spent a pleasant night chatting on various interesting subjects by the fireside. He certainly gives one a most favourable impression of a German Divine, and as a man of considerable attainments, and well adapted to the fulfillment of the duties of his sacred office. Glencoes, and is related to them. He tells me that the present family are first and second cousins of mine. Called according to appointment on the Governor at half past nine, respecting the Waikanae natives. Found him very affable and kind in his conversation, and willing to come to Waikanae, if I write to inform him that there is a probability of an arrangement being effected. He seems to agree with me in thinking that the natives will not come to any terms about Waitara; and that it would be well to induce some of them to remain at Waikanae; that their numbers should not be so formidable at Taranaki, and that their remaining would be a barrier to other tribes who might feel disposed to unite against the Europeans. The natives called on the Governor when I left, Mr. Kemp acting as Interpretor. Tuhara and others called. Saw Mr. Hadfield, who I found a most clear intelligent narrator of the Waikanae question, and of the disposition of the natives respecting Waitara. Went to Mr. Inglis' church in the forenoon. A good sermon. Dined at Mr. St. Hill's. Met the Governor's brother, Mr. Thomas. Mrs. St. Hill a very lady-like, kind, decent person. Report by the Jilia, brig, of the murderers being taken at Auckland. Called on the Governor. A long conversation about the Taranaki land question. He hoped I should succeed in making some arrangement with the Waikanae natives. Called at Rev. Cole's, not at home. Also called on Bethune, and Hunter and Smith. Had some lunch and left for Porirua. Paid several bills. In the evening got to Rangihaeata's Pah. Received a very kind reception from Lieut. Verge, with whom I spent the night. Most comfortable. Left Paratahanui at 5, accompanied by Lieut Verge, through the new line, till within a few minutes' ride of Compton's, who I found with Maidhill, and Capt. Russell, who gave me a kind invitation to stay with him, and have a shake-down at the Stockade any time I passed that way. Called at Compton's, a settler from Manawatu, who superintended a road party of natives. It is pleasing to every one interested in the advancement of civilization, to see the natives employed in the construction of roads, that will be such a durable benefit to themselves, the English, and all succeeding races in the country. I could not pass the road, or the cheerful parties employed on it, without feeling a sensation of delight at the improvements the road-making must occasion among the natives, who mix together from all tribes, hostile and peaceable, uniting their differences in the promotion of one common object of common good. Arrived at Waikanae in the forenoon. Came on to Major Durie's, who returned at the same time from Wanganui; where he had been enquiring into the state of the roads and fences, and inspecting his Force at the Military station there. Gave notice of a meeting with natives for tomorrow. Met a drunken old sailor from Yankee-land, who I had with me at the North. He seemed desirous to treat me with every mark of kindness, which, from a drunken man is not at all times, of the most refined description. Met Mr. Wade of Hobart town. A very intelligent man. Knew Hales and McLean well. Spoke of Burnett's land and affairs. Equinoctial gales threaten to overtake us all this time, and probably will prevent the Ngatiawa migration for the present season. The wind is now blowing from the North, and will continue some days, till it is succeeded by rain. Left Jenkins' at 11 a.m. to meet the natives at the Pah. Ihaia's perseverance has gained several of the natives to favour the proposals of the Government, respecting Waitara land of this party. Tupe and Teretiu with Toheroa and their friends are the principals. At the commencement of the meeting, some of William King's party, especially the elder men of his party, spoke to the effect that they would not part with their land; that their throats should rather be cut on their land than they should part with it. I perceive a great majority are favourable to this opposition and obstinancy respecting their land. Being all collected - about 400 or 420, I told them that there was no objection to the Ngatiawas returning to the Taranakis, to the people of Minui of Urenui; that their land was not now encroached on by Europeans; that they were right in returning to their Kaingas, but there were others belonging to Waitara to whom I had something to say, before they should leave; that their land had been considered our property by the cession of Chiefs who claimed it as theirs; that we, finding it was not occupied, purchased it and surveyed it; that it consequently became the property of a great number of pakehas; whose determination, if not immediately carried into effect, would be eventually to live on the lands surveyed for them; that if the natives were ever so numerous that their opposition to us as a body would be perfectly useless, and would result in their being in a more unsettled state than ever, if they did not accede to the Governor's proposals, which were intended for their lasting and permanent good; that the land was sold; that we had now to consider the best means of providing for them, and satisfying the Europeans; that the old men who spoke about losing their lives on the land were fools; that they were driving their followers to destruction, and that we only were the parents who guided their persons and interests with impartial consideration for their safety and welfare, now an opportunity was afforded of settling things satisfactorily; and we should do it, if only they could see their own interests; that no opposition to us could be either durable or successful. To-day, or on the morrow, I should inform them more distinctly of what the Governor's intentions respecting their land was, thinking it best to give them a little time to reflect on my introductory speech, to which they listened with grave, silent attention; and for some long time no one got up to reply; but all seemed panic-struck, probably with the force and obvious truths of the arguments adduced. May God, whose power alone can change the heart of man, grant a favourable turn in the minds of the poor obstinate portion of the natives. Wrote a note to Major Durie, who came down to see and hear what was going on. I could perceive that my party - as I may term the favourable natives - began to evince an air of confidence and faith in the intentions and assurances of the Government. The following is the substance of the native speeches:- Hohepa Mongaraki, a Chief of the Ngatiuwanuku, was speaking to this effect:- ''Let us not part with our land at Waitara. I shall not give up till I am dead; then the land may be taken. If, by selling it, food would grow on the money, or ''utu'' we might do so; but the people cannot live on money! My children, hold the land!'' Nikorima from Arapawa, an old man, got up; and addressing his people from Arapawa said:- ''My people, hold the land! The parent that lives and feeds the people, the sucking milk of the children that keeps them alive!'' Then he sang an old piece of poetry:- ''Otawa ka kihi kihitia; Opakuru ka kihi kihitia; Ka hawa koe manuka kaitoa, Kone e kihi kihitia.'' ''Yes, my children, this is my canoe.'' Te Tupe, alias Herewini Whaite, got up and said:- ''Listen, listen, McLean! This is my first speech to you. I agree to what you have said. Yes, these rivers which I now name - two rivers, Mongoraka and Waitara, are for you, for the Europeans.'' Tamati Raru said in reply:- ''Where is there a head or tail to the land? I will not give up mine. Mine I will not give to the Europeans. My throat shall first be cut, before I give my land!'' Te Toemai or Matena Ruta said:- "No, it will not be After a comfortable night, I awoke about 7 in the morning. A lovely bright sky. An equally beautiful situation. The mountain's snow glimmering in the sun, whose animating rays were spreading over the works of nature, with brilliant grandeur. My host has quite put me in the mind of dining outside, as they do in Germany, in bowers near the houses erected for the purpose; where a person can go for table d'hote, and dine for 2/-. These places are public and private throughout Germany, I rather fancy, after the French fashion; good! The new boundary will not be good! The new boundary means my land beyond the Ngamotu district. The land will not be given to the pakehas. It will be held for ever and ever!" Hoani got up, much against William King's wishes, who desired him to desist. ''Listen McLean! At Koni Koni the boundary commences. Tuparinui shall be your McLean! Karorangi shall be yours McLean! .....................'' After this speech the whole of William King's party became greatly excited and enraged; and during the delivery of the speech they evinced very evident emotions of excitement and anger. William got up and said:- ''My father, John, you are doing wrong. Why did you not speak this way, or think this way before? You have left till I was leaving, then sold the land from under my feet. Why did you not say so before? Now you are doing wrong, Hoani. Why did you not speak of this when our old men were living, to think of those things that they might be straight; but now the land will be held - will not be given to you McLean. The land!'' he exclaimed, in a lament -able ejaculation; ''The Land! let me be on my land till you come to put me in gaol! The land will be held!'' Raru followed in a similar strain. Teretui then got up, threw off his cap, and said:- ''A cap for you! I am now throwing off my cap for you McLean. This is binding. This cannot be taken; as, under this rope will be tied and held together. Ka pangote moku. On this land will now be all the pakehas. Now your tongues will be licking or grinding for the land. This will be sure, that is McLean, the land will be yours! The land will be yours, as a town for you. It will never be broken off, never! It will be yours, and no one can prevent it!'' A few of the oppositionists then got up, as if they could not find words to express their anger and surprise at the evident break of one combined party under King's influence, being divided and broken into sections. Ihaia from Waitara then got up and said:- ''I was the person who did the evil; but I am not worse than the great men who first sold the land to the whites, Who says people will not live on money. People will live on money. It was by money we were saved from Taonui's intention of destroying Waitara. You say people will live by greenstone. No! I got money from the Europeans gave it to Taonui, and that was great to save the neck of men, and neck of land. The land is now there safe, or you would not go back to it. It is from great thoughts alone that it can be said the land is safe. Let not the people's word be thrown in my teeth. Who says the land has no head? It has both head and tail! Yes, Nikorima! You talk about that. You have a house and so have I. You have a Pah, and so have I. You have an ancestor, and so have I. There is no one without a parent. The mind is clear respecting those places that the people say there is no land. I have land. There are my patches among the Ngatituwitu and Ngatiwairaka. My lands and Tuainas are given away by me. There is no land left for him. The lands are given by me into the hands of the whites in all directions. My though it appears there is a greater simplicity of style, and more untestrained freedom. About 10 Mr. Brown made his appearance, and I rode on with him to the Ngamu, but was greatly annoyed to find he so grossly mismanaged to secure a Station there, by his unforseen rashness in sending a boat's crew to the place he intended, before ever the natives were consulted the bad policy of such a step, not knowing at the time how the natives viewed it; and regretted having it all come in company with him, both on his own account and mine, will soon follow.'' Tupe said:- ''Do not be in doubt, or afraid of what I have said. I have only sold my own land, and not that of others.'' After which, he left, and was followed by his party. ''You will not go on my land when you go to Waitara.'' Having explained some little things which they enquired of me respecting land at Taranaki, the meeting dispersed. William King's party is now broken up; and he himself desires to keep and become more friendly with me. The party being broken up will put a stop to any faction against the New Plymouth settlement; and convinces him the Government influence is yet sufficient to prevent any combined opposition against the Europeans; and to-morrow morning will decide more in our favour, when they reflect on what has been said to them, than could have been at first. Instead of William King having a strong force to accompany him to make fortifications at Waitara, he can only now rely on such of the natives as are naturally connected with him, from the position of their lands, and their subjection to him as their chief. Visited the Pah, with the map. William King and party more friendly. Promises to sell a part of Waitara, asks how we are to enter the heads of the river. I told him by steam-boat; and that the Pirikawau can tell that steam railways are used in England for land communication As he siad, we could not get to the middle of the river by sea. He talked with less reserve and freedom than he has yet done, but is rather afraid of my gaining ground among his people, and seems desirous I should go back to Wellington, and still is anxious to have my presence on their starting point; as he says they will not go far without me. Making quiet enquiries, and satisfactorily I replied to all the questions of the several tribes assembled here. Several of the natives are so annoyed at the offers made to me by Tupe and his party, to dispose of their Waitara land, that they threaten to give up the whole of Waikanae to the Ngatiawas and Ngatimukauas; but William King, although himself greatly disappointed at their favourable offers to us, is quite opposed to the land passing into the hands of another tribe; showing his good judgement and sense by so doing, as they can have no pretensions of a claim to it, the Ngatiawas having previously occupied the district, and conquered it from the Ngatikohumunui tribe. Told the natives that our claims to the Waitara, which they so strongly object to, arrises from the following reasons:- First:- Chiefs of the Ngatiawa tribe sold, and if they were not whole owners of the land, they were connected with the owners; and were the only natives then possessing the country; the Waikatos, as conquered, also sold it. as he defeats his own objects, and certainly does not add to my reputation among the natives, to come along at such a time when they are under such excitement about land, with a person whom they suppose is fully intent on possessing a Station without even their sanction; and though this is certainly not his desire, it is difficult to make a savage comprehend the real nature of the expedition. I have explained to the natives that my mission was entirely different from Brown's; that his intentions were not to take their lands, but obtain a Station amongst them, at which he might trade for flax. They seemed satisfied with this explanation, having previously met a body where the boat May the Almighty grant that another day will produce a more favourable feeling still, in the poor benighted natives, that they may see what is really to their advantage. The Ngatitama tribe, on the way to Taranaki, are giving me the boundaries of their land, and the numbers in their tribes. Ascertaining the boundaries of the Ngatitamas, their numbers, and intentions. A meeting with some of the Taranaki natives, in reference to their claims, some of which they wish to dispose of to the Government; so that were it not for the existence of the Company's ficticious and unfortunate claims, we might acquire abundance of land with a good title, from the natives. How seldom, from my own personal experience, has an appeal to a merciful Providence been made, without a satisfactory reply. To-day a wonderful change has taken place in the natives. A party of the Puketapus are offering their land for sale, and desire to join us, instead of being considered opposed to us. William King has come up to the Police Station, and seems to be quite different in his behaviour. He says I have treated him badly, by encouraging a party to dispose of their land; that I was causing a division of the natives against him, and frustrating his intentions respecting Waitara; that Ihaia, Te Tupe, and I were selling or taking the land from under his feet; that he had no place to return to; that the lands were given up to me and that we had made a little person of him, and dispersed the parties who agreed to join him; that I had advised each party to return to their own particular district; that he would now hear what the Government proposals were; and consider on the best means of acceeding to them. These being explained, he seemed satisfied, and said he would return quietly; and when he arrived at Waitara, would talk about selling the land on the South banks of the river, and occupying the North, informing the Government of his arrival there, that the proposed town might be commenced; and he would consult with the Mamaku and Pukerangiora natives about acceeding to the Governor's terms. ''But'' he said, ''you have come to meet me on the road to Taranaki, deprive me of the Ngatiawas and natives who agreed to join me, and you are taking the land that I intended to return to. I must complain of you to both the Governors; and if you buy up the land before giving me time to return, I will be off to Auckland, and complain of you to the Governor. I am a Chief, and the natives admit that. The Ngatiraranuis, the Taranakis, and all the people, would join me at Waitara, if I were to oppose you about the land. But you have made things clear and straight. Your words are good. The natives all listen to you, and I am come up to assure you that I am not now arguing with you; but still I must say, in my heart, that you have completely killed me. In time we will make all straight, when I have seen my land, and written to tell the Governor of my arrival at Waitara.'' I told him again of the Governor's kind intentions which he acknowledged. Tupe came up while I was engaged with William King, to offer his land for sale, bringing a letter to his friends at Waitara, desiring them to do the same, and telling William King - whom he was astonished to meet on a similar embassy - that if he did not dispose of his land to the Government, he should; and that if he did not do so quickly, he should; as his desire was to favour the Government in every instance. William King may now rest assured that, from the change in the natives, opposition to the Government measures would now be fruitless. I promised that Tupe should not be neglected when the natives' land is surveyed; as he claims a large portion of the North banks of the river. Read a little during the day. Walked out with Major Durie. Saw the back country, which seems well suited for grazing, but of no extent. Neglectful of any Services to my Maker; but hope I may yet return from errors to perform His will, and walk in His ways. Had another visit from William King, to enquire if Te Tupe was writing me more letters, or selling more land. Nothing of interest transpired during the day. Rauparaha came to the Waikanae Pah. Had a conversation with him, accompanied with Major Durie; William King having sent for me to go and see him. William King called to see me again to-day at the office, and Tupe came to offer more land at Waitara. Occupied part of the day with the natives. Nothing of any importance done. Attended Evening Service at the beautiful church at Waikanae, which reminds one of what is related in Scripture of ancient Jerusalem buildings. How beautiful to see a savage race raising such a monument to their Creator's name. Went in company with Major Durie to Wellington, by way of the Pukerua bush. Got to town about 4 in the afternoon. Called on the Lieut. Governor in my travelling dress. Reported progress at Waikanae, with which the Governor appeared satisfied; but probably he might have felt it rather the reverse of pleasant that his own endeavours to effect what I had been sent for were ineffectual. However, be that as it may, duty and the McLean motto of - ''Virtue; Honest'' shall be my rule of conduct, however adverse such a course may be to some. But certainly this does not apply to the Lieut. Governor. I think he is a well-disposed man, but rather deficient of experience in New Zealand matters. It will be quite unnecessary for me to divide the time at Wellington (from the 30th. March to the 21st. April) into days; as my time was occupied almost day and night, enquiring into native claims, without interruption; and thankful am I that some settlement with a troublesome and formidable tribe has been effected, with a comparatively small sum of money. Taken in view with the payments the Ngatitias received for their large tracts of land, and which the Ngamotu natives allege ahs been given to them, from fear more than actual right to the country, without considering the immensity of the district they have disposed of it at a rate of 2½d. per acre, when Taranaki land has been paid for (taking the Company's payments into consideration) at as high as 2/- per acre, and even more. The importance of this settlement is not only to be considered in connection with the land to which we hereby acquire an undoubted title; but also permits setting the New Plymouth natives at rest, as far as the absentees are concerned; and also in preventing these absentees from returning, to give fresh annoyances in that district; which they obviously would have done, if a settlement had not been made. My stay at Wellington has also given me an important insight into the native claims at Taranaki; and occasioned many to offer their land for sale at Puketapu, that would not otherwise have done so. Their correspondence to me on this subject, indicated their rapid improvement in writing, and the readiness with which they acquire a knowledge of doing so. On the landed, and ordered them back to New Plymouth. I did not expostulate with them for doing so, the fault being clearly my own countryman's, who took them off their guard, precipitously, without notice or reflection. In the evening I returned to Umuroa, and slept there, a great body of the natives following me, amongst them the Taranaki Chief, George King, a handsome-looking open-countenaneed stately man, who is a great favourite of mine. I made him a present of a blanket, and promised him a young English pig. I told him and all whole I may congratulate not only myself, but the Governor-in-Chief, and New Plymouth settlers, for having sent me at the time to the South; when the excitement of our allied Taranaki tribe was at such a high pitch respecting their Taranaki lands. My wishes have been so far realised in the most agreeable manner to myself, by having contributed to the peace and prosperity of a district, for which, and its inhabitants I should have the greatest regard and consideration. The first Public Meeting of the absentee Taranaki claimants was held at Government House on the 8th. of April, when the Aro tribe of Taranaki had a quarrel with Moturara's party, about the land between Herekawe and the Sugar Loaves. This was, no doubt, the first display of semi-savage ferocity the Governor had yet seen, but he appeared not under great apprehension of their clubbing and fighting, which ended by the interference of Wiremu Tako, Kemp and myself. The Governor, Mr. Kemp, N.I. two Private Secretaries, Capt. Kelly, and another gentleman (recently arrived from England) were on the verandah when this scene broke out; and the squabble was only what was customary with our Taranaki rabble at their meetings. When over, I heard they very soon got reconciled. There was another display, previous to that, which took place at Burnett's at a meeting I had with the natives, in consequence of one having offered to sell the land of another, who was not disposed to part with his interests to the Europeans, without first having the sanction of the natives residing at New Plymouth, or rather at Taranaki. On the 12th. April, the settlement with the Ngamotu natives, for the balance of £100 due on the Fitzroy block since 1844, and the paying of one instalment for the recent purchase of 9770 acres, of £130 was made; and the two amounts divided into 29 equal portions among the various Hapus or family subdivisions of the tribe, which amounted to £7, leaving a balance in hand of 17/6, of which 12/6 was given to Etako, and Porutu's son Ihaia, for assisting in giving native information as to claims, numbers and Hapus of the Ngamotu people. The remaining 5/- was paid to Mr. Suisted, for the bags in which the money was put for the natives; or, if charged in the hotel account, paid by Government, it will stand against me as payment for food supplied to natives. I am uncertain in which way the sum is expended, and therefore must refer to my tribe and enquire about it. I may conclude my sketch of the Wellington visit by adoring that Providence, who so graciously presides over us in all our ways, and saves us from the many evils that this world is encumbered with; and how grateful should I feel that the illness threatened at Church, and felt from the reflection of the sun on my head, has not proved more serious. May the Almighty, if it be His will, preserve me to do what good I can while it is my lot to be allowed to remain in this existence. Slept at the Porirua Public House. Expenses. at Major Durie's, Waikanae. Expenses at Jenkins'. Spent third night also here. at Otaki, Rauparaha's, who gave us a good repast in his large house. I spoke highly of Governor Grey; mentioned the propriety of having a Rangitira, European, to visit Manawatu and Otaki. Wished me to do so occasionally. . At Ohau. Census of Ngatiawa migration taken. Expenses. Mr. Chamberlain's cattle Station. Capt. Robertson's, Manawatu. His Taupo visit dangerous. Heuheu's care in covering him and Harrison with a mat. In the bush beyond St. Mary's lake. Not able to find the road to Wanganui. Very dark. Sunday 30th. April 1848 Arrived at Mr. Taylor's early in the morning. Had breakfast. Went to church. Saw Capt. Campbell and Mr. King. Called at Major Wyatt's about the land question. Dined with Capt. Campbell. Wrote Taranaki letters. Saw the Wanganui natives. Dined with Hon. Mr. Yelverton at the Mess. Gave Manuwai the Governor's letter, and the cloak he sent him. Writing native notices, and issuing some to the following parties:- Hori Kingi, Te Aua Aua Mawae, Hone Wiremu, Hipanga, Kawaua Paipai. Iharaira, and all other claimants to the lands for the Europeans, at Whanganui. Aperaharua Tipai, and the people of Wangaehu. To Tehi Turoa. To Te Tuhana, to Ngapara, Te Mamamahu. To Amarama. Having had a conference with several of the Ngatituaka, and other claimants, respecting the land question, I issued a letter to the Turuhare tribe; and was engaged writing at Mr. Taylor's during the greater part of the day, and in the evening came to the Inn. Natives of Putiki seem disappointed that they are not considered the only claimants to the land, and entitled exclusively to the compensation for it; but on the whole they perceive the justice of the others who have a claim, participating in the purchase. Probably they see it is as well for them to do so; as they find my principle is to let all who have claims, to freely participate, without distinction of rank, or race; as both these are too much over-rated in land negotiations. The chief has no exclusive rights, but what he claims in common with other members of the tribe, and any prominent part he takes of disposing of land is entirely owing to the admission of superiority by his tribe, of his right to take a part in the disposal of it. In illustrating this subject, I will say, for instance, that a quarrel arrises between two members of a tribe, about a piece of land. The quarrel is decided by blows. The Chief will not be found to take any part in it, unless the matter goes so far as to cause a general fight. Then he is expected to take his place as leader in the fight. He may also, if so disposed, advise against quarrelling about the land; but his advice in such cases is not always attended to. In war, in council, in politics, and in the internal management of ceratin discipline amongst the natives that I came to acquaint them that we intended to purchase land from their tribe near the town; and that I wished them fully to understand that it should be a final and conclusive sale; and that any opposition or approval to the step should be at once made, before I made further progress in the negotiations. They all fully assented to the sale, and said it eminated from themselves; that they were desirous the Europeans should at once possess the country from Tapuwai to the town; so that the Puketapu tribe, who his followers, from whom, if not a man of independent spirit and high virtue, he will be desirous of courting good-will, and co-operation in his plans, that are generally, if of any moment, decided in common council with the tribe - the old men and warriors taking the precedence, or having the most weight in consultations. It is true, however, that when a Chief has great sway, he is in a greater measure despotic, and does not confine himself within the prescribed bounds that a Chief, by custom, is supposed to do. The distinguishing principle by which a chief is recognised by the natives, may be comprehended under the following heads:- Birth, hospitality, oratory, advising against unnecessary aggression that may endanger his tribe Giving gifts to strangers or other chiefs is highly thought of; and although bravery should be supposed a necessary essential to a chief, the other qualities are the most highly though of. The claims of natives to the forests are distinctly defined; and even the trees of the forest are claimed by respective owners. The cutting of trees for a canoe must be on the land owned by the person making it, or else he may be cut up by the owner of the tree, if his permission was not previously asked. It is customary among the natives, when they give land as a gift to other natives connected with, or disconnected with their tribe, to receive some of the first crop grown on the land; and, in some instances, if the cultivator ceases to use it, it reverts to the original owner. Engaged at the Commercial Hotel, writing. Issued letters to natives.................... Had a conversation with Tohana about his land. He offers to assist in getting back Watts' section from Ngapara. Wills to go up with him to see his reserve at Waipakura to-morrow. Wrote to Capt. King, Mr. Halse, Mr. Flight, Groubi, to send by Law in the morning. Not very busily engaged. The weather boisterous. Brig off the Heads since Monday. No means of getting to her. The peculiar difficulty of ascertaining the exact claimants to a spot of land was very clearly described to me to-day by Dr. Rees; having, after careful enquiry, failed in finding out who owned his section, a long time after he was established; with all the precaution and enquiries he could possibly make on the subject. It appears that Pehi Turoa claimed it from its having been made a present to him by other natives. These natives were jealous of his giving it to Europeans without their consent, and annoyed Rees incessantly in every way they could. Nor would Pehi, who placed him on the land, interfere to stop the aggression. Mamamaku and others also claimed it. How necessary then, it must be, in making a general payment, to see that all the claimants are satisfied. Law left at 6 a.m. for Taranaki, with orders to call at Kaupukionui, and tell Eapimana I was settling for the land there. Instructed to resume his road duties. All notices to the natives delivered this forenoon. Attended Church in the forenoon. Breakfasted with Mr. King. Slept at Mr. Taylor's. Bad cold. Brig in sight. Crossed to the town. Governor Grey arrived, bringing the compensation of £1,000 for Wanganui. Brig encountered very severe weather; jibb-boom broken; bulwarks broken. Letters from the Lieut. Governor (Private) Governor-in-Chief not expected to the South for some time Mr. Wills commenced surveying at Waipakura. No difficulty with boundaries laid down there by Mr. White. Tunuhaere called on me to-day about their land in the neighbourhood. Letter from Te Whero Whero. Had a meeting with all the principal land claimants of Wanganui, in the morning, including those of Tunuhaere, Rangitauira Te Mawae, Hori Kingi, Tamati Aramoa Tipae and several others. Arranged after some difficulty with the natives, in obtaining a portion of Messrs. Taylor and Watts' section, previously reserved for the natives; and arranged for Mr. Wills to include the two sections left out in the Wangaehu block bordering on the sand banks. Wrote to Te Whero Whero, in answer to his letter of yesterday, respecting Auckland. Mr. Wills commenced surveying on the opposite side of the river, Watts' and Taylor's land. Te Mumu and Kai Iwi natives sulky about their land. Watts' land surveyed. Information from Tarewa and Mare, alias Paora, Chief of Ngatipamoana; 200 men. Tamakehu was the forefather, or Chief of the Ngapotomo tribe, also Rakitauri, Hakaria's progenitor. The land of Tarewa and Hakaria commences at the Karanui, the stream known as Churton's; and goes inland as far as Mangawhero, above the upper Stockade; and goes from there to Harrison's creek, including part of Harrison's land; and goes to Kaikokopu, this side of Tutaiheka. The number of Tarewa's tribe is 200 men. Engaged in writing with Mr. Ronaldson. Had a meeting with some of the Tunuhaere natives. Wrote a report to the Governor, of journey from Port Nicholson. continue their deadly enemies, should be driven from there in consequence; that they were squatters on the land, and that they should not retain it any longer. I am glad to observe there is not a dissentient voice, respecting this sale; which promises - unless the Puketapus interfere- to be the most satisfactory of any that has been proposed in the District. High and low agree to it; and those who are the principals have acted on the same plan that I have myself done, by giving the utmost publicity to their intentions, and warning all their tribe that a public meeting was to be held in a few days, preparatory to a formal cession of the land in question, to the Europeans. I met the messengers, neatly dressed, one of them with a blue and scarlet coat, passing through as a herald of great importance, with notes of invitation to the several Taranaki tribes or families, at their respective villages. The anxiety I have lately entertained as to the safety of the settlers, from the small force of police at my disposal, and from the awkwardness of an untrained Militia, should they be called out, has very much subsided, by the voluntary offers made by the tribes of this coast, to tender their assistance, whenever I get into any difficulty with the notorious Puketapus; and satisfies me that they would not either coalese, or take part with them in any engagement; but would sooner die alongside of the Europeans than even remain neutral. This ought to be acknowledged as a blessing from Divine Providence, who clears our paths in the darkest and most intricate times. Old Paul of Worea says - "I love the pakehas, but hate the Puketapu Maoris. They are my old enemies, and still continue treacherous and deceitful;" and though it does appear inconsistent that I should not soften and smooth down my feelings of hatred and animosity betwixt contending tribes, I must always look to the safety of the English, which is only secured by the inter-tribe feuds of the natives. Had we indeed power and preponderance of numbers on our side, I should be the first to conciliate and extinguish the feuds, and reconcile old grievances, that they should not make their appearance amongst the rising generation. I must, if possible, soon return to this quarter again. It is of paramount importance, in the present crisis, to keep up a friendly feeling with this powerful tribe, who, I begin to think, are firmer in their alleigance than mercenary allies of any kind are ever found to be. Old Paul of Worea, the Chief, with his son Abraham, and the native teacher Phillip, called to see me to converse over sundry subjects; when old Paul said - "My land that is now to be given to you is sacred to your head and heart, McLean; and never more shall we give you any trouble about it, so mind these words." Friday Nov. 5th. 1847. Having succeeded beyond my expectations with the Waitara natives in obtaining information respecting their land and aware that this visit is in reality a favourable commencement as the most obstinate conceive their rights are gone. I may finish my town and Taranaki work by in the first place going to litirangi that the natives may see I intend to claim that far. In the morning a taua from Puketapu came to the Pah to take off a woman named Mata for an alleged curse against Te Whaitere Katatori. The curse seems to have been an expression she made use of respecting a fine bill hook which he has and which natives told her he kept in such order for killing Europeans. She said it must be rather to kill himself this was construed into a curse and Katatori with about twenty men came to take the woman as payment. A canoe and some other things were given to the party and I told them not to remove the woman from the Waitara Pah on any a/c. and I was afterwards glad to find they did not do so. Matui the principal chief of waitaras son accompanied me to the Taniwa where I avoided entering into any conversation with the natives respecting their land. Pirika arrived with the Auckland mail and brought intelligence of a horrible murder that was committed at the Auckland Flagstaff the keeper of which with his wife & child were murdered and the house burnt to the ground. Saturday Nov, 6th. 1847. Breakfasted at Stockmans house who left for Mokau on the preceding and who I was anxious to see on a/c. of the land claims in right Sir, In conducting this survey of the Block of land at Tataraimatea bounded on the N.E. by the Timuru river and on the W. by the Katikura. You will use every endeavour in forwarding it without loss of time and engage 6 Natives to assist you in cutting the lines their pay not to exceed 1/6 per diem & a deduction of 3 to 6d. from the pay of such as do not In the evening came to Hauranga and had tea and a more agreable conversation with the Natives about boundaries. I am determined to have the Timuru as the boundary if possible & no doubt the survey being now commenced with spirit they will agree to my proposals before the lines are ready for cutting at this end. Hone was so enraged at this boundary being disputed by the Hauranga Natives that he declared he would give up all the land without any "utu" but the Pakeha. Thursday 11 March 47. Walked with Mr. Cutfield to the foot of the Haurangi range over a beautiful road extending inland about 2 miles from the coast and formed by the Natives for hauling canoes from the forest from what I could perceive from the elevations I occasionally walked over there does not appear to be much difficulty in contructing a road to New Plymouth that will run under the range of mountains or perhaps about the centre of the level country ¾ of a mile from the ridges. I returning homeward had a splendid view of the country from a Pah inland of Omata or rather nearer the Sugar loaves which is beautifully situated about 2 miles from the coast & overlooks 30,000 acres of fine fertile country. Got home by 3 p.m. washed shaved & dined in the evening invited the Bollards to dinner & went into town; found the men on duty at Barracks and all going on orderly & correct. Friday 12 March 1847 Sent Mr. Harris to reconnoitre the country at Muturoa with one of the Natives & report on the extent of the Native cultivation in that neighborhood & where they are principally situated having first calculated the probable extent of the land available for purchase from the Ngamotu tribe and the number of acres reserving on the original plan of the Goy's 1/10 that would be required out of their probable block of 7,000 they claim which would be 700 acres divided in 3 portions, for the separate "Hapus". Now is the time to consider the advantage or disadvantage of having the Natives interspersed amongst us & of reserving a sufficient quantity of land to meet their present and future wants. I am myself inclined to think at present that having a friendly tribe amongst is a decided benefit in many respects & more especially in checking the exorbitant labour market by lending us their assistance on moderate terms, for instance their services in the boats & loading & discharging cargoes could not be easily wanted whilst there are so few Europeans dependant on labour. In an interview with Mr. Wicksteed I was quite annoyed to find him so precipitous in his desire to have a meeting of landowners to offer them choice in land not yet transferred to him by the govt. and have twice advised him against it; he evidently appears anxious to keep himself employed when his interference is quite uncalled for by either settlers or govt. The Bollards dined with me at 4 o'clock, Mr. Cotton along with them saw Mr. Harris who has reported to me on the state of the Native cultivations some of which are on the sections awarded by Mr. Spain to the late R. Barret. Saturday 13th. March Received £100 pounds from Capt. King to pay the Police force with up to Thursday last called on Mr. Wicksteed respecting the Native reserves at Moturoa when we had some of his over anxious conversation respecting Merchants section- Paid Mr. King £16- Ordered Mr. Harris to commence surveying on Monday morning at Moturoa - The Waitara natives who are in favour of selling their land tell me that it is customary among them when laying out boundaries of land to let the party doing so include the portions of other people without obstinate resistance as that might lead to the drawing of blood which would occasion all the land to go to the party claiming it in payment for the blood drawn even if not an owner or in taking or stealing Karakas from each other they careffully avoid bloodrawing for fear the thief might by this means become proprietor of the Karaka trees on which the fruit was gathered. and others that what I said was tika or true and seemed to receive me much better amongst them than I anticipated. The meeting after some few remarks by akopa against parting with his land which were answered by those in our favour quietly dispersed Mr. Turton who had been on one of his usual visits having left also after giving the natives a good lecture much appreciated by many of them from the 26 of the 17 chap. of Acts which no doubt had a good effect with many of them - indeed some of them alluded to it as being an excellent Kauhau. Wednesday Nov. 3rd. 1847. In the morning the natives retd. to the meeting and were cooled down considerably after last night and yesterdays excitement. They wished very much to hear what I had to say on the land question which I carefully explained to them in a speech of some length assuring them that it would be useless to resist the Governors determination to have the land, that it would to our mutual advantage and general good to make a fair division of the lands that the southern natives who they seemed so anxious about should participate in the arrangements, that land in large quantities for the use of all should be reserved and fear of war would vanish amidst the enjoyment of peace and prosperity would certainly follow an amicable and well understood arrangement of the Land Question. They all listened with silence and occasionally observed on both sides the oppositionists in the tent. I gave him an outline of how the matter was to be settled but told him as he was then my guest I did not wish him to convict himself against the advice of his friends by consenting to the arrangements which I told him should be publicly announced tomorrow when the meeting reassembled. one of them more boisterous than the others against parting with her land got a severe fall when grappled with her antagonists on a stump of a tree and lay in a state of insensibility for some considerable time - after the pain had partially removed she said that she was not opposed to sell her land that her anger was vented and that she was more annoyed now with her party opposing the sale than with those in favour of it who she called her brothers sisters and near relatives; what a strange people and of what wonderful amalgamated materials are they composed. The meeting in the grove was continued till a very late hour when they went across to the Pa and slept & the young chief of Waitara remained with me ladies were particularly noisy and violent with each other two or three of them quarreled about their boundaries which led to some more personal observations as to their high and low origin not voluntarily admitting their claims to aristocracy & dance & grimaced for some time in anything but a graceful manner. They however made some impression from the regular time kept by them in bouncing and shaking about, it reminded me in some measure of a highland fling or country dance performed by some who could not be called novices but still devoid of the gracefulness with which that dance may be performed. Having pranced & danced for some time Britain, but this island and especially this particular district has been most densely populated, till within the last 30 or 40 years when a sweeping calamity or disease termed Te RewhaRewha supposed by the natives to be a god of great power taking them off by scores in the day without reeling any particular pain or previous disease by this means together with the waikato wars although the latter cause was never so destructive as the former may be attributed the annihilation of the Ngatiawa tribe. But to return to the business of the meeting I must observe that the stating that individual claims do not exist others even go so far as to believe they have no rights except on lands they actually cultivate. That the natives have acquired right to such an unlimited extent of country as was found at any time conducive to their subsistence should be at once admitted by any unprejudiced person and this would include the whole uninhabited country excepting the Islands of the south that appear to have been a considerable time depopulated as it to open up a country for our overgrown populations in joined him, Hakopa a man of some influence strongly opposed the sale of any land to the Europeans and was replied to by a shrewd and most intelligent native named Tamati, brother of Ihaia who possessed an uncommon degree of shrewdness and tact in conducting an argument. The meeting then got rather excited and kept a spirit disputation on the subject during the evening at which there was a great deal said to and fro as to their several and individual claims which by any person understanding what passed would be a conclusive argument against the speculative theories of native rights to property who in groups round the tent in the midst of the grove, those from Hairangi with their chief Whatitiri on the left on each side of the bank those disposed to sell their land on the right and in front of the tent, the Kuikui and down the river natives behind the tent. The business of the meeting was commenced with a very great deal of spirit by Ihaia a staunch supporter of Europeans who addressed the assembled crowd forming the greatest body of Waitara claimants that ever met together to discuss the land question (about 130 adults) and in a long speech he told them that his firm determination was to sell his land and that of his friends who joined them Tuesday November 2nd. 1847 Left town about I am for Waitara to commence negotiations with the Natives for their land having given them a week's notice that I should be there to-day and take a surveyor & party Mr. Carrington accordingly accompanied me and on our arrival at the Mamaku we found all the principal Natives and indeed the majority of the natives on the river were waiting our arrival. I pitched the tent at the lovely Pa near the village, and the Natives seated themselves sale we however got on without much opposition and collected some information to guide my operations. I cannot conceive that it will be lost time or expense to have a small police station at Waitara and take formal possession of the district to keep those in favour of the sale in countenance and find out their right as others will gradually turn round to join them. There was a little opposition to our proceeding through a certain clump of tapu wood which was premeditated but probably brought on sooner in consequence of my having remarked what a fine tall son this short man has on which he turned round and said if I am short you shall not go further on hearing this Ihaia made a long speech and Waiata asking me what was to be done. I told him we should go through the which we did accordingly till we reached the foot of his claim at Pukepapa. Retd. to tent at 5 read Dr. Wilsons letter and a/c of goods among wairangi. Waitara Thursday, 4. Nov., 1847. A body of the natives about 40 in number for and against the sale of their land accompanied me to point out their several boundaries and shew me their claims on the north side of the river expecting considerable opposition I did not take the policeman with me and Mr. Carrington and I walked over their boundaries several miles along the river till we reached Pukepapa opposite Huirangi the land on the banks of the river is intersected with innumerable little claims and a considerable portion is owned by those opposed to the thoughts and determinations shall not be broken by Ariki looking at me. ''You have your place, and I have mine. If I go to any other person it is wrong. All Waitare - whose is it? Yes, indeed! whose is it? It shall not be only broken asunder in the middle, but shall go from end to end. My thoughts will never be, in case McLean should cast me off and get angry!'' He then closed by telling something to the Raupahara about a quarrel he would have at Waitara. Te Kati then spoke, and said:- ''Go to the land. Go, my son!'' addressing William King, ''the land which fed your forefathers. I remain here, but Having allayed whatever excitement existed among the natives after the Governor's departure by the ''Inflexible'', I started from New Plymouth about 12 a.m. for Wellington, (having advised them to sell their lands to Mr. Bell) to assist the Lieut. Governor there in effecting an arrangement with the Southern Ngatiawas for their claims at Taranaki, and for the lands they may abandon, to come to this district. On leaving town, called at Mr. Bell's for his letters. Found Capt. King at the Police Office. Got the three policemen and natives off, and started on horseback by the new line of road, taking Layman with me to point out to him the work I wished done till my return. Pushed on to Tapuwai where I found the two policemen only, and Mark, who left town in the morning. Had lunch there. Was overtaken by the natives, and on we went on our journey. Called at Mr. Cutfield's new Station at Tataramaka, and at Hauranga Pahi. Found the natives there complained of the reserve in the new purchase. This reserve was a matter of conversation along the coast, and the difference between Mr. Bell and myself on this sugject was talked of by the natives, who were evidently previously incited by Mr. Bell to oppose this reserve, because he was not consulted before it was made. Slept at Wareatea. Found Minarapa there against orders. Spent the day at Wareatea. Paratene said something about Mr. Cutfield, to the effect that he would go to the station to have a quarrel with him; but, that I conceive to be mere native bounce, and part of an ancient custom, when their land is taken possession of. Monday 6th. March 1848. Breakfasted at Mokotonu. Complaint by Mr. Blake against Minarapa, for having had connection with the native woman he lives with. Gave Minarapa a good lecture, telling him I would deduct a part of his pay, if such misconduct was proved against him; that the object of a policeman and police force was to suppress all such immorality, instead of being instrumental agents in promoting it, and setting a bad example to the natives. He was also told that if the case were corroborated by other evidence besides the woman's, I should fine him. Called at Mr. Riemensnider's. Found him recovered from his illness. He heard it reported among the natives that Mr. Ball had quarrelled with me, the result of which must be that I should go back to England, and that what I had done should not be allowed by the Governor. It is a pity I find the natives so susceptible of bad impressions, and a person of Mr. Bell's character so regardless of himself as to endeavour to incite the natives against the officers of the Government. For myself, personally, his attempts to undermine the influence I possess, I forgive; but the public interests are in a more dangerous and precarious state, as far as the natives are concerned, than ever they were; and would only take a very short time of Mr. Bell's regime in office, continuing the same course as he now pursues, to have the poor, simple natives set in a blaze against each other, and the Government and Europeans must, of course, suffer alike from such disreputable attempts to gratify personal vanity, of which he seems to be so largely possessed. My own course with him shall be always different; and unless his conduct becomes more obviously glaring I shall forgive evil for good, and aid him in everything he may require of me, in acquiring land from the natives.