Picturesque Taranaki

Progress, Volume VIII, Issue 6, 1 February 1913, Page 297

Picturesque Taranaki

Governor Hobson called the Taranaki country “the Garden of Hew Zealand.” Then it was the home of the forest primeval. It is still the garden of Hew Zealand, but much of the forest has ceased to be primeval, nevertheless, the country, is most fascinating to the lover of the picturesque. It is a country typical of the scenic style of Maoriland, so unique in the scenery of the world. For example,

like most of the districts of these “fortunate isles,” the scenery is dominated by mountain shapes. But the domination is of the handsomest mountain in the Dominion, and one of the most graceful in the world. Every landscape centres in that wonderful cone, and from the sea the traveller has it in his satisfied eye always. Seen from Hawera the beauty pf the mountain is greatest. One does not know

which to admire the most —the majestic grandeur of the mountain, the grace of the icy cone poised in the “blue dome of air,” the marvel of the curve uniting it to the plain as an integral part of itself, the tints of the forest, of the ice and the pleasant land.

Tasman saw it in 1642 and said nothing except that he saw a mountain. Cook saw it in 1769, and described it as “a high mountain greatly resembling the peak of Teneriffe.” The French navigator,

Marion de Fresne, adopted the middle course of calling the mountain “Le Pic de Muscarine,” after his ship. But the first stranger eyes set on it were those of the great Maori navigator, Kupe, and his crew, who called it “Pukehaupapa,” which Mr. Seffern in his history of Taranaki translates “Ice Clad Hill.” That is estimated to have happened some six or seven centuries ago.

The further description of Cook is interesting, because in his usual practical style. “It lies near the sea, and is surrounded by a flat country of a pleasant appearance, being clothed with verdure and wood which renders it the more conspicuous.” He added: “The shore under it forms a large cape which I have named Cape Egmont.” At the same time he named the mountain Mount Egmont. Mr. Seffern, whose story of this district is so interesting and full, and who loved the mountain as all the district loved it then and does now and ever will, for the fascination of the mountain world never leaves the people who dwell in the land of the great hills, has left a fine tribute to the commanding peak. “What can be more beautiful to greet the vision at sunrise than Mount Egmont? Towering aloft in the clear blue sky, old Taranaki rears her stately snow-crowned head, blushing with rosy radiance beneath the golden kisses of the morning skin, and below the snow dense foliage clothes the giant with a kingly robe of verdure. Later on in the day a belt of fleecy clouds hovers lovingly awhile about midway, slowly ascending they melt away before the ardent breath of the noonday sun.”

The solitude of the mountain much enhances its grandeur. A fact that may be understood from the descriptions of many who have likened the cone of Taranaki to the cone of Eusiyama, and though the latter rises to an altitude of 16,000 feet (double the_ height of Egmont) there is no hint in any of their pages of lesser majesty as the portion of the smaller mountain. ; From the summit the view is far reaching, for it includes the chief mountains of the Dominion, the Southern Alps on a clear day, and the great characteristic shacks of Buapehu, Tongariro, and Hgaruhoe. As for the view of the country, taking in the coast to the Manukau, the whole of the Taranaki district, and a filmy edition of the bulk of tire Wellington province, it is indescribable, as it is exhilarating to the climber to whom it is the pleasant reward of his enterprise. Hot that it requires much enterprise nowadays. Dr. Diffenbach, the first to climb the cone, made two attempts in 1839, the second of which consumed seven days of his time. To-day you can

reach the mountain hotel, close to the snow line, in an hour and a half by motor car, and from the hotel the rest is easy. There are within reach half a dozen trips, the best being of course to the crater at the summit, and this ladies can accomplish on foot in two to four hours, according to strength and disposition. The other attractions are Dawson’s Falls, Bell Falls, the Eanges, and others. There are tracks everywhere well graded and safe, a there are guides for those who wish to go off the tracks or to be secure in case of bad weather. The hotel is up to date in all things modern, and on the whole a very pleasant week can be spent here. Those who prefer a more independent method of spending their holiday can secure the mountain hut not far off at cheap rates, and there they can arrange their picnic in any way they please. The other great attraction of the Taranaki district is the Mokau Elver trip. Opinions differ as to whether the Mokau or the Wanganui is the more picturesque stream. But this presents no difficulty to the traveller through Taranaki, as he can easily see both, for while the Mokau is all within the district boundaries, the Wanganui Biver is a portion of the south-eastern boundary, and can be reached from Taumarunui in the ordinary way by the steamers.

The Mokau is picturesque and full of memories of the old race which flourished in these parts for seven centuries. The beauty is of leaf and flower of tree and shrub, of white beach and sombre rock, with blue of the water and blue of the sky. The hills on either side are of noble proportion and glorious outline of contrasting and unexpected curves, the special characteristic of Hew Zealand combination. The reaches are splendid, and the gorges are wonderful, the garment of forest is rich in the extreme, and the occasional views of peak and plain magnificent.

There is a comfortable launch for the traveller which will take him twenty miles up the stream, and canoes are ready for another ten miles to the head of this picturesque enjoyable navigation should he so desire. The coal workings of the Mokau are very famous now for many reasons may be seen by the way, and the store of legends makes the Mokau truly a haunted stream. The road from Waitara to Mokau mouth over Mount Messenger is one of the most picturesque in the whole Dominion, so rich in scenic magnificence. Hew Plymouth, with its baths, its oil-wells, its breakwater, its “Sugar Loaves—one of these, Paratutu, of 600 feet offers a delightful climb, from which stone-cut steps and convenient roping have removed all hazard its beautiful —the most fairy place in all Hew Zealand, and its historic memories—among the most interesting and striking in the Dominion, offers irresistible attractions to the holiday maker. There are many trips of great beauty and interest in the neighbourhood besides. The flowers of this country are of surpassing splendour. There is also magnificent trout fishing by land and great fishing by sea all the way from the breakwater up the coast. On the whole, it is safe to say that he who has not dwelt. awhile in Taranaki knows little of the best of Hew Zealand, or of the best of life therein.

The recently formed Tourist Association has splendid material to dilate unon.