A Holiday Tour

New Zealand Tablet, Volume LII, Issue 33, 2 September 1925, Page 19

A Holiday Tour

;C. 'Rev. Father James ,' O'Neill, pastor of fc; Waikiwi, Southland, who recently returned, . ') from a. holiday tour of many lands, gave an. account of his travels and impressions to the If. Southland Daily News, from which we exi] ; tract the following: — j > ' '■■ * The New 'Frisco. / After a very pleasant voyage of 19 days ' on the Pacific the s.s. Maunganui fror-i Wellington reached San Francisco on Easter Sunday, 1924. By a coincidence the same V n -steamer, was sailing from Sydney when we returned .and brought us back to New Zealand. I had not seen San Francisco since tho earthquake and great fire which laid the , old ; city in ■ ashes. I was hardly prepared • fr r the extraordinary change that had come V over the place. Skyscrapers everywhere and •a delightful cleanliness and freedom from old shacks marked the street lines in all 1 directions; - \ ■■J*i . , Great Los Angeles. : ; After enjoying for some days the generous hospitality of some new-made friends we ..■£. turned south to Los Angeles, passing through "lovely scenes on the coast route. The oil Franciscan Mission buildings that studded ■ the country were objects of interest to us ■ and we marked how the public buildings in \ many places reproduced 1 the architectural •features of those old homes of religion and j peace. We found Los Angeles going ahead with- cyclonic speed. This city had set itself "V apparently to outrival 'Frisco in everything. ■ - Jt has already succeeded in leaving the popu- { lation of the more northerly city far behind. ; The oil, which abounds, has been one source > of attraction. The climate, which draws immense numbers during the winter from the colder' States, acts with magnetic force on v the wealthy. Added to these the suitability [, for fruit-growing and you have some of the _, causes which account for the rapid growth . in prosperity of that portion of America t which faces the Pacific and invites Asiatic h invasion. The . streets of Los Angeles look very narrow by reason of the height and .. extent of the sky-scrapers. The population -' is very cosmopolitan and Mexicans form a ! 0 conspicuous portion. 7 ■ * '"" '• ~.;,; The Grand Canon. , .w From Los Angeles through Arizona the p Grand'Canon the route- goes through lux- .;> urious country for a time, but ends in howling desert. The first view of the Canon takes one's breath away. Standing on a |l great height one looks across some thirteen miles of rarified air, which makes objects i. f appear extraordinarily close. All around^ ;/ 4 .standing up against, a clear sky the moun- ;; tain peaks of fantastic shapes and varying j, altitudes. Here and there deep gorges-open l i|Liintotthe. great central cavity. As you,look jfjj down from your high perch near the welljpl appointed hotel you notice ribbons of . flowing I water converging from : various » points to \ meet perhaps at a settlement which • seems r ; to you like a toy Noah's. Ark surrounded by ■

FATHER O'NEILL ON HIS TRAVELS.

toy trees. Those ribbons of water are fast flowing rivers and the trails which run along the sides of the vast pit are here and there made animated by the tourists riding mules which look no (bigger than mice. ■■'.-. Back to Ireland. Reserving further reference to his experiences in America, Father C'Neill proceeds to give his impressions of Ireland. My first glimpse, of Erin (he writes) was obtained in the north. The good ship Cameronia from New York, after a pleasant and wonderfully calm trip across the 1 Atlantic, arrived one morning in May outside the historic Moville. The hills of Donegal rose bright and fresh to greet the eyes of the large number of returning exiles, most of whom had probably left with the sentiment of the Highland exile in parting from his beloved native mountains. My companion (Father O'Donnell) and I would have gladly spent our first days in Ireland roaming over the hills of Tyrconnell and Tyrone, where our kinsmen for centuries lived, a hardy and indomitable race, whose deeds shine out in golden letters and the chequered pages of Ireland's annals'. When, however, we learned that the destination of the tender that carried the passengers ashore was not Donegal in Southern Ireland! save the mark, but in the newly-carved-out part of the province which embraces six counties of Ulster's nine, we resolved not to enter by the back door, aril went on to Liverpool with the steamer, whence we returned by the Dublin packet'/ which brought us to Ireland's capital. Having visited some old friends in Dublin and heard of the passing out of many more; haying seen the rush and bustle of business going on as in days of yore; having noted the absence of any visible effects of the long-drawn-out reign of terror on the faces of the residents, we started for our respective destinations in the South and parted after having circled one-half of the globe. In the Irish Dail. N . We visited the Dail in Dublin and heard some of the prominent speakers in the temporary House of Parliament- in Kildare Street. The President (Mr. Cosgrave), who is not a robust man, happened to be away on a health tour in the South of Europe. The debate on the occasion was of minor importance, but gave us ah opportunity of seeing how the Speaker (Mr. O'Malley) handled the questions that cropped, up. Years ago I met Mr. O'Malley and some of his relatives during a tour through Connacht, which is his home. /■•• ... : -«. -•" .■-.<■*:• '•■.•■/.•■■■ *r ■■-»■ ~~~--'-- In his veins flows the blood of the historic character "Granuayle"- Grace O'Malley, who distinguished herself by her prowess as a, - sea captain. She was a forceful woman and made many bend to Her wilLw ■ Mr. O'Malley was one of those members who formed the National Party, and resign-" ed his seat shortly after the occasion on

which I . saw him at his post. Whether he was re-elected I cannot, say, as the electioli for nine vacancies occurred after I left ) Ireland, and I learned on my arrival •in New i' Zealaild that seven of the nine were returned y: pledged to support the Government. Mr. Kevin Higgins -took the place of Mr* Oosgtave during the latter’s absence. He is regarded as an efficient Minister and -is cer- > tainly a .ready and incisive speaker. The i leader of the Labor Party, Mr. Johnson, was ' j heard to good effect and has some earnest and forcible followers. Nothing could exceed ■/: the celerity and smoothness with which the business of the day was transacted;/ ' , v " Southward Bound. r h'-Jv-V , V Ml Passing down - the line <on the- Cork rail- ; way, we noticed the effects of the et season which had begun in May, and, unfortunately, continued without intermission till we left in February. In respect to et weather v other countries shared the luck of Ireland. I experienced heavy rains in travelling through Scotland and England and found France almost a sea of water, particularly in the South. v' V Naturally after spending some happy days with my immediate friends in /'.the'! North, I set out to ’ visit *'t my old college mates in various parts of Munster, Connaught, and Leinster. I made one visit to the North on the occasion of the funeral of Cardinal Logue in Armagh, where one of the most, representative gatherings that ever took place in the country had met to do honor to the -memory of* a great churchman, a true patriot, and a faichful ruler. I happened to be .in Rome on the occasion of Cardinal Logue’s .taking possession of his titular , church, . and. saw,. on, that f occasion a goodly gathering of Irish people and their friends who had come to bid God '. speed to the new Irish Cardinal on entering the ranks of the Princes of the Church. . The hopes that were entertained then of the wor- o thy fulfilling the high duties of his exalted position have been more than fulfilled, and his name is heldin benediction by the people for his prudent and wise counsels/; and his calm influence on his flock in times of stressV and trial. ' ■ . ; Incidentally I had an opportunity of seeing the improvements made in Armagh Cathedral since I visited it -about a quarter of ; a century ago. The outward appearance is/ suggestive of Cologne’ Cathedral so extensive- ■ ; ly spread in colored artistic reproduction throughout the world. Tfie interior, ' vast and imposing, . with its walls cov- ; ered with lovely ‘ colored mosaics, its windows filled up with rich and mellow , coloring in stained glass representing scenes in the life of Ireland’s national apostle, St. Patrick, who fixed his see in Armagh after, he had converted Ireland to Christianity. The marble altars and statuary are a marked feature of the. interior. ‘lts splendid , full- , toned organ was heard to good effect as ( the strains of the solemn music appropriate to funeral services swelled out on the ear. . One felt imperceptibly carried ■away,'. to the great minsters that fill every country in Europe and tell of the days when builders were men

of high ? artistic ? gifts and the ceremonies connected with the worship - of God raised the hearts and minds from earth to Heaven. My ; picture of such religious life could not be complete if I did not mention the simple' little country churches that dot the land and where in buildings of varying styles with no pretension to architecture! the- people-gathered to join in spirit with the historic assembly at Armagh and commemorate fully the passing of St. Patrick’s latest successor. From every altar in Ireland the praise of a good and faithful servant resounded, _ and • fervent prayers in Gaelic and English, as well as in the official and ancient language of the Church, were offered on behalf of one whose loss to the Irish Church and nation all felt to be a personal loss. , Some Former N.Z. Priests. I mad© it a point to visit former . New Zealand colleagues now settled down in their native land, among others Father O’Malley, who will be remembered by the Catholics of Invercargill, where he labored for some time as curate to Dean Burke. I found him located in Galbally, at . the entrance to the historic and romantic Glen of Aherlow. \ - • ... Father O’Malley won the hearts of .New Zealand Catholics wherever he was located by his. quiet, unobtrusive devotion to the duties of his sacred office. . He was forever on the war path, hunting up . the careless members of his flock and getting the children to school. His visits were all of an official kind and brought joy and consolation to many a home. He left New Zealand with regret at the call of his Irish Bishop, who had lent him for a term of years to the diocese of Dunedin, but now that he is settled amongst a people who appreciate and revere him he is happy and content, unchanged and unchangeable. ■■" Another old ? New Zealander whom I visited was Father Corcoran, who after many years of zealous missionary work in the city of Dunedin, was pastor of Queenstown and the Lake County at the time his health necessitated a prolonged holiday. He elected to remain in Ireland, and I found him in good health and. spirits in the town of Ternpletuohy, in North Tipperary, where he ministers as curate in one of the prettiest ■ parish churches to be found in the land. * - Another former New Zealand missionary ; lives in the town of Cahir, in Co. Tipperary. He is Father Pierse Hearne, who also was attached to the staff of St. Mary’s, Invercargill, and retains pleasant memories of Maori* land. ’> He was pastor, of : Port Chalmers - at .the time he was .called home to the Waterford diocese,* for which he was ordained. I saw” a* good deal of" Father Hearne, as - his* house is situated on the road between Limerick and Waterford, on which I . motored a good deal during my stay ' in Ireland. ' v- v ' .■ • ; • • ■ . • --■ Southlanders in Galway. Whilst in Galway I met two young men from Southland, N.Z., : with "’whom I visited the mends of quite a number of Southland residents. The lovely Gothic church at An-' :

nadown; set in a beautiful panorama" of mountain and lake: scenery, would take the I * fancy of _ the most i unemotionable. :, Surrounded, as it is, with memorials of : a bygone .day; its ruined {monastery speaks "of a time I when it was "J a centre of religious life, with - its bishop and cathedral, and all its attendant furnishings of an episcopal see. ""']A*Jl Currandulla, in the same parish, I found the; Franciscan Brothers, who conduct a most,f successful school, engaged in haymaking, taking advantage of the • spell of dry; weather which might not last long, 't A few salu- % tations in Gaelic set lis at home- with each other at once, and inquiries were eager and numerous about the people from those' parts who had settled down' in Southland. I met? one former West Plains settler who had left New Zealand by a later boat than, mine, and 3 who seemed to have a faraway look in his eyes as if his mind were back again in the Sunny South. . - „• 1 ' ; • ; Seeing a ; Scottish concert extensively advertised, I am reminded of the many pleasant functions I attended in the years gone by in Invercargill and Dunedin, and elsewhere. A generation has gone since I first took part in a Gaelic gathering in the Garrison Hall, Dunedin, and I can never forget a the enthusiasm ; that was displayed when the sea-divided Gael was reunited for the first time in Dunedin's history. -< Later the Highland Society of Southland paid me the compliment of inviting me to their annual gatherings, and the verve and go that were manifested in those reunions remain a pleasant % memory.; ;•■"" '■.'-' ."'.' w/.v v - : -o^l The thrilling airs - that were rendered by the best talent, the graceful national dances in which young and old took part;- the picturesque costumes and the subdued f strain of the war pipes all contributed ;to make those gatherings most memorable. f■ f 4"" For some, myself amongst the number, they had a further effect in turning the attention to Scottish history, and creating a f desire to visit the scnes of so many noted events in Scotland's chequered story. Bonnie Scotland. ~.J:tf Naturally,'then, I took in Scotland in my' recent tour, and travelled over a goodly portion of that; most beautiful land, The objects that have most attraction for visitors to the Old Country are naturally decided by their occupations. The medical man will look for all the latest improvements in medicine; and surgical . science. - The engineer will r| seek out all that can be known of developments in his line, and so of other vocations. One of the .; greatest sources of pleasure £tol me in my visits to Scotland has-been to see the ecclesiastical buildings that stud the land and admire the r ; graceful architecture "5 and the splendid workmanship that enabled those buildings, ; coming 'down .from the centuries ; gone . by, to withstand the ravages of Time and to proclaim the thoroughness with which all- buildings in stone were constructed before ' slumming and soamping and jerry-build-ing ; arose. Glasgow possesses; in : St. Mungo's one \ of ; the finest types of medieval architec--1 ture. The vaulted roof of nave and choir ; above and of the crypts below have f looked down ton successive generations' of Glasgow

worshippers and- sightseers, and in their graceful curves and - well-proportioned columns : give & sense'-of strength ■ and security > that more < modern .buildings 1 sometimes lack. One of -my first calls in Glasgow was to the; Archbishop, Dr. '-. Mackintosh, who rules over a flock of fa quarter of a million of demoted arid staunch adherents of the old faith. We had met in the 'years gone by, when ; Dr. Mackintosh was Rector pi | : Scots ' College in Rome, aid it was a satisfaction to know that he had not forgotten me 1 in the intervening years. He asked most cordially about his relatives in . Southland, and evinced ' a deep interest "in New Zealand's progress. Rambling around Argyle Street and * Sauchiehall Street, and the other busy thoroughfares, I got an idea of the cosmopolitan nature of the floating population of the city, .and listened with' pleasure to the music of the Glasgow accent At Kilsyth I spent a few days with an old college mate, who is a Canon of Edinburgh Cathedral Chapter. The people were desirous of hearing about New Zealand, and I complied with the Canon's wish to give. them some of my experiences. The Scottish Dunedin. _'•■'■'■* * -At Edinburgh. I happened on bright, crisp weather and saw Princes Street looking ; ts best.. The graceful lines of the monument to Sir Walter Scott arrest the attention of visitors, and one sees in it an appropriate and i enduring testimonial of the gratitude of; Scotland to one who did so much to make Scotland known and appreciated. Every summer and autumn sees vast • numbers of visitors from every quarter of the globe, and the readiness with which many of these will quote scenes and mention characters from Scott's works tells of the influence of his literary, historical, and poetical contributions to. the sum total of Scotland's literary output. Every old castle and abbey that figures in the works of Scott is made doubly interesting to visitors from the fact that he has made them live again. Historic scenes in which they played a part are reproduced and the actors in the various incidents are made to speak again in a manlier that brings the past before .us in a ' vividly realistic way. His political works contain many gems of, purest ray -serene. Who has not read with admiration his description of Melrose Abbey, founded by King David, the son of Malcolm Canmore and the gracious Queen Margaret? "If thou wouldst view fair Melrose aright. Go visit it by pale, moonlight. .. . . ..'Fox the gay beams of. lightsome,day. . % Gild but, to flout the ruins gray. ...... . 7 When the broken arches are black as night And each shafted oriel glimmers- white When 'the cold lights uncertain shower ■ Streams on the ruined central tower, '■'• j When buttress and buttress •alternately I .Seemed framed of eb6»y and ivory '7,7 I Then go, but go. alone the while S Then view St. David's ruined pile, './ . . And home returning _ soothly swear ... Was never scene so sad and fair.! -\V ; ; .>.":■;. ,-;;:■ ;-_...•• :;-../..:.cf^c^p/^.. ii[:i..r -• St.; Columba's Isle on the West'Coast-' demands more than a passing mention. From • this; lone rockC Christianity was 7 spread through all the adjacent mainland and mem-

ones of -Cohimba, the Irish monk, are found in-old churches, religious houses, crosses and wells right, through the -Highland glens. It was the burial place of the Kings of Scotland for centuries- and • a 'centre of learning for all Caledonia. The ruins on ; the island bring back memories of great men who lived and died and are buried in that sacred isle. It recalls the successive migrations of the Gaels from Dalraida, the modern Antrim, to colonise and eventually Christianise the Western Isles -and the land of the Scots, the kith and kin of the Scots beyond the Moyle. "My Heart's in the Highlands." ■ The Gaelic language common to the Highlands and the Irish remains the most incontestable proof of their identity of origin, and in moving about the North of Scotland one gets some erroneous notions dispelled. That the North of Scotland should be warmer than the South is not generally regarded as in conformity with geographical conditions, but the fact remains and is capable of proof by a residence in both places. The towns, particularly in the North, such as Inverness, Nairn, Elgin,- etc., are most picturesque, clean and well built,..and to make a friend hi any of those places is to secure a treasure and for those I met, at least, I will always retain the most gratifying recollections. I had a special .'purpose in visiting Nairn to meet an old Southland friend from Clinton, who had gone Home two or three years ago. When I - arrived I was disappointed to find he was .dead. A visit to his grave gave me an opportunity of noting the well-kept and neatly adorned cemetery. Having seen some friends in Inverness, I came down Lochness with Captain McDonald, an old identity on that tr% All the local 1 folk lore and traditions of the Ness are stored in the Skipper's mind and he makes an ideal guide to the beauties of that romantic sheet of water. At Fort Augustus a stay showed me the great improvement made in that splendid pile the Benedictine Abbey and College. Some of the friends I made on a former visit had passed away and new faces were abounding. From Fort Augustus down Glengarry, and on to Lochaber amid scenery suggestive of many parts of New Zealand, though -not on the gigantic scale that we are accustomed ; to" out here. . • A glance at Fort William, and a run to Glencoe-bring memories of happy and sad events in history. Loch Lomond and' Loch Katrine look as beautiful as ever with the autumn tints on the trees around and the merry parties of visitors wandering along the shores .or crossing in the launches. So back- again to St. Enoch's station at Glasgow with a grateful mind for having seen so many of God's wonders in a land where Nature has been prodigal of her gifts and where genial hearts are plentiful. > . .-' 7V; * : 'z'r.~:: . Return to America. 7^ ..Father O'Neill's return journey homewards was by way of the United States. Writing of Chicago he - says: , ~ : >v; Somebody has described Chicago as a densely-populated' wilderness where the solitude of the Sahara can be felt as intensely & in the African waste. Pushing one's way

through the surging masses of humanity that fill the streets 'and avenues, : a - sense of loneliness is apt to creep on ther- traveller. ai.Tn»M£ faces are hot unfriendly, but the absorption in business that is clearly outlined on etjery countenance takes somewhat from the glamor of the architectural, hygienic, and artistic features of the city by Lake Michigan. s Niagara. '7 ' ?■'. '. The night train to Niagara whirled us 7 away to a different atmosphere, where the '/£ great Falls still attract a ceaseless flow of sji visitors. Everybody has read of Niagara;;. 7 that magnificent body of water that tumbles g|j down with a deafening roar into the rapids I beneath.: It is a weird sensation to get right under the Falls clad in mackintosh, * and by . Idumb show convey ideas to those - around; Though large cities like Detroit, Buffalo, 7 Toronto, etc., are electrified by cutting off some of the water and supplying power- 7 houses of immense proportions that are erec- : ; ted all around, the volume of water coming 7 over seems to those who saw the Falls before the electrification was established, scar- 1 cely diminished. . ■'/ A run through Buffalo and a view of its ; manufactures took up part of a day, and ;; next morning we arrived in New York. ; * New York and Washington. Here the indications of:life and growth 7 were around us. Whether by the overhead J| railroad or '.the subways, a never-ending}* stream of humanity was rushing up and 7 down. The Pennsylvania Hotel.where we M stayed has about 24 stories, and elevators 7 are going all day long and into the night. 7, Each landing has its own staff of attendants 7 and the rooms leave nothing to be desired in the matter of convenience. / Before travelling much of New York we went to Washing- :; ton and put in a pleasant time at the Cath- .7 olic University, which I had not! seen for ; over... thirty years. It is now- quite a city 7 in itself. Large architectural buildings spreading around over large areas, -and con-7; veniently near the city of Washington, which :' can be reached by tram or taxi. /7 ; 7 We were fortunate in meeting a New Zea.lander who has been for some years resident .;■: at the University, and having an intimate 7; , knowledge of the American capital, he kindly \) drove lis around : to all the interesting point* —the Washington f monument, the Lincoln 7' Monument, the-Capitol, the White . Hous* and the City .Galleries. Being an' expert with the- Kodak, our friend : snapped \ ill at 7 every interesting point with historic backgrounds. '•:';'-■ '/'<''-/:; '.-■-;■■.• . 7- 7 t '7^';

At one point he joined us in the group, getting a passer-by to press the button.. Till/’ I saw that picture I ' fancied , I- was ’some / size, but-what figure can six-footers make / when a man some- inches ■> over,; seven I feet / stands between them! Father Mcßae .of; the Wellington archdiocese/ after completing his studies, and being ordained in Mosgiel was sent /by the Archbishop, of - Wellington X for an extended course in Washington. ' .

He it was tvho made, our stay in Washington so pleasant, . A son of Highland parents,, a - native of New Zealand, he hoped 1 to get a, look at the mountains arid glen* of i

phis ancestors before returning to missionary work under the Southern Gross. f He is certainly the tallest priest ; in America, eandv probably: in the world. irt—a piewsaui, visit to Baltimore and Philadelphia filled in : our time till we; were ready/: to ■ cross the Atlantic. And as we steamed but from New York, the great Statue of Liberty reminded us of much that America had done to promote the welfare of hulni^^v;/;^:'"^':^/;'^!'-/; .*•..'".-•> "~ . - ■"/./•-:■ .'..'.'-.......',•—....■ -. <><*- i • . ,