A N.Z. SOLDIER’S LETTERS FROM PALESTINE

New Zealand Tablet, 30 January 1919, Page 37

A N.Z. SOLDIER’S LETTERS FROM PALESTINE

Writing at intervals during last year to his parents (Mr. and Mrs. J. Goakley, Thames), Trooper C. H. Goakley, who has been for over three years with the N.Z. Mounted Brigade in Egypt and other countries of the East, gives thus his impressions and observations: “Our brigade did not enter Jerusalem first, as we were operating on the Jaffa sector then. We have been stationed on the Jordan Valley for a good time. This is a most. interesting place from a historical point of view, but not so from that of a soldier. The Jordan Valley is 1292 ft below sea level, and is of course very hot. When we first came here it was quite green, but now there is not a particle of grass, and it is very dusty. Jericho is situated on the flat about three miles from the Jordan. It is only a small —very dirty, and nothing like the Jericho of old one reads about. This is the third* town of Jericho. The ruins of the other two remain to this day, but not to any great extent. About a mile from Jericho is the Mount of Temptation. From there the Dead Sea can be seen, and also the mouth of the Jordan. Looking further across may be seen the mount from which Moses viewed the promised land, as also the traditional spot where the Children of Israel finished their wanderings. One has to let the imagination play when viewing these places. There is nothing to mark the spots mentioned, and some find it had to believe that the events recorded in the , dim past really hap - pened.” Under date June 6, he wrote: “I had the privilege yesterday of visiting Jerusalem. Jerusalem is divided into two —the old city, which is surrounded by a large wall; and the modern city. Our party comprised 12, and one officer. It was necessary to go in such parties to pass the guard at the Jaffa gate (the principal gateway into old Jerusalem). Just inside the gates is seen the Tower of David, and a little further on one comes to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This church is owned by five great Christian bodies Catholic, Armenian, Syrian, Greek, and Coptic. Each of these bodies has lamps, candelabra, etc., to adorn the Holy Places inside the church. 'Originally each body had its own building, but now one roof covers all. Just inside the church door is the Holy Sepulchre, an elaborate edifice, marking the original site where Our Blessed Saviour was buried. Near by is the Ablution rock, where the body of Our Redeemer was washed after being taken from the cross. A little further on, up some steps, you come to the place where He was nailed to the cross and the site of the crucifixion, the holes in which the cross was placed, and also those where the two thieves were hung. Marking the spot where the Blessed Mother of Our Saviour watched her Divine Son at the crucifixion is a statue of the Blessed Virgin. This statue, which is encased, is adorned with priceless jewels of all descriptions. These have been given by visitors to the Holy Place, and include two French decorations, also a massive gold heart given by the Kaiser. Leaving the church we proceeded through cobbled streets to the foundation of Solomon’s Temple. The wall is known as the Jews’ wailing-place, and every Friday the Jews come there praying and wailing that the old Temple, which originally belonged to the Jews, may be restored to them. The old Temple site now belongs to the Moslems, and this wall is as close as the Jews are permitted to go to worship. There are thousands of nails driven

in between the stones in memory of the Jews’ visits there. We next visited the Moslem places of worship. There are two mosques. First, the Mosqu© of Aska. Here we had to take off our boots before entering. The floors are covered with rich carpets. Now we come to the Mosque of Omar. This is supposed to be the best mosque in the world. It is most elaborate inside, with inlaid work on the walls and most beautifu! ceilings. Here is seen the rock of sacrifice associated with the Biblical history of Abraham. Mohammed’s beard is also kept here, and is exposed to the view of the faithful during the Ramadan, a religious season of the Moslems. Our next point of interest was the Golden Gate. The stone work is the same as in early times. From the wall here one overlooks the Valley of Josaphat, the Garden of Gethsemane, and the Tomb of the Virgin Mary. One also sees the Church of St. Stephen, as well as other tombs of early Christians. The Mount of Olives is seen from here. We visited the place where Our Lord was scourged and crowned with thorns, and what originally was Herod’s palace. This place is owned by Catholic Sisters. Only small portions of the old buildings now remain, and these are built in with a modern structure. The Sisters have one of the prettiest churches I have seeen. We visited the courtyard, where any marks which are supposed to exist from early times are carefully preserved. We now traversed the street through which Our Blessed Saviour carried the cross. On the walls are marked the different stations. Where St. Veronica wiped Our Lord’s face there now stands a crypt containing a statue of Our Lord carrying the cross and St. Veronica with a towel in her hands bearing the impression of the Sacred Countenance. Following the road, one comes back to the Holy Sepulchre Church, the scene of Our Lord’s crucifixion and burial. The old City of Jerusalem is little changed. The narrow, cobbled streets and native shops still exist. There is no vehicular traffic here, all carrying being done by donkeys and mules. The new City of Jerusalem is very modern, and contains many fine buildings. There are numerous shops where curios and souvenirs of the Holy Places are to be bought. Since last writing I was able to visit Bethlehem, and to see all the objects of interest there. The most interesting is the Church of the Nativity. The present building was erected some hundred years ago, and covers most of the scenes enacted in Bethlehem. When you understand that the stables in the olden times were merely caves you will realise how the building covers so many sites. It was necessary to have an officer to pass the guard. (All the Holy Places are under guard owing to certain recent happenings.) The Church of the Nativity, like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, is owned by four Christian bodies, each having its own place of worship. The church originally belonged to the Crusaders, who, when they had to leave it, tried to burn it down. (Marks of the fire are still visible.) After passing the church entrance the visitor goes down a corridor, or hall, to the first portion of the Church—the Greek. Down narrow, dark steps the grotto where the Divine Infant was born is reached. The spot is marked with a large silver star known as the Star of Bethlehem. A few yards from there we see the manger where the Child was nursed. Here also is seen the spot where the wise men were directed by the star. There are several other scenes of interest here, including the place of the slaughter of the innocents, St. Jerome’s

tomb, and the room in which St. Jerome translated the Bible into 12 languages. Going up a lot of steps we enter the Armenian Church. Next , comes the Universal Catholic Church —a very pretty church, containing fine Stations of the Cross, pictures, etc. The pulpit is a beautiful piece of hand work. This church belongs to the French Fathers. Another place of interest is the spot where the angel appeared to St. Joseph and warned him to make flight to Egypt with Mary and the Child. There are numerous other churches and convents around Bethlehem, the city being practically wholly Catholic.”