PARIS IN WAR TIME

New Zealand Tablet, 29 April 1915, Page 23

PARIS IN WAR TIME

Some months ago (write's our Christchurch correspondent) I had the pleasure of being permitted to take copious notes from letters sent by Mrs. Arthur Mead, the well-known Dominion vocalist, to her relatives in this city. The narrative then related to ‘ Lourdes, and the great Eucharistic Congress/ and I have now ! placed at my disposal for the benefit of Tablet readers some particularly timely, and deeply interesting notes treating of the French capital in war time. Writing from Rue de Faubourg St. Honore, Paris, under date February 25, Mrs. Mead says:—Paris does not 'appeal to me as did that peaceful holy valley of Lourdes, but in the light of present-day happenings it largely shares the attention directed by the wide world toward the Allies. I left London on a dull grey November morning to commence the second stage of my two years’ study in Europe. When I left ‘ Mount Loretto ' (Mrs. Mead’s home on Cashmere Hills, Christchurch) on January 8, 1914, I felt that two years were to be endless. It seemed so -long to look forward to—two years from home. However, as all other things pass, so have almost eleven months of my two years. 1 was not beginning my second stage under the ‘most favorable circumstances. To begin with, all my relations and friends’thought it madness to go so near hostilities as Paris was then; the Government had not returned from Bordeaux, consequently all who could, even Parisians themselves, remained in London. I had nearly nine months under dear old Sir Charles Santley, and was anxious to begin my work in Paris, so against everyone’s wishes I decided on crossing the Channel and chancing the German mines and submarines. On embarking on the boat at Folkestone I had some qualms of conscience at taking, what everyone assured me, was t so great a risk. Being a misty day we were soon out of sight of land, but not out of sight of some of our gallant fleet. Every now and then one or two of them could be seen in the distance. The journey from Folkestone to Dieppe- generally takes four hours, but, although having, left the former at 1 o’clock in the afternoon, at 4, as dusk was falling, there was no sight of land, and we ran into a heavy thick snowstorm. Just on 5 o’clock we saw the old and familiar landing of Dieppe, with its well-worn steps, come into view. The landing wharf and steps had a thick coating of white, and in the dim light of a few lamps (full lights not being allowed anywhere) the scene of the disembarkation of the weary, anxious passengers was most picturesque. Everyone was very relieved that the crossing was safely accomplished. The journey to Paris, owing to snow and many restrictions on account of war, was necessarily a slow one, arid it was 10 by the clock before we saw the lights of St. Lazare Station. Having been in Paris before, and having seen it by night with its gay crowd and brightly lit cafes, one could not but notice how dull and sombre the city had become. A taxi , ride of

a few minutes soon brought me to my destination, where I was glad to rest after an anxious if not exciting day’s travel. That was three arid a-half months ago,/and now I will try to give you my impressions of . those fourteen weeks of Paris in war time. , • ' ;- -i - % When here many years ago, and then again in May last year, the place and people gave me an impression that no thought of The morrow’ ever troubled them. ' Their one idea seemed to be? the drinking of the ‘.cup of gladness ; everything was a pleasure to them, and one seldom saw a downcast expression. They were here to enjoy life, and this they did—both rich and poor. We all know that France has had many saints and has sent its zealous, pious missionaries all over the world, including our own little islands. The magnificent cathedrals and churches all over this beautiful country are evidence of the faith that few other countries can boast -of- Yet this France so favored by God, almost one might say the ‘ spoilt child of God,’ was every day becoming less fervent, until many had the mark of the atheist. Seven months ago this cruel relentless war broke out, and what has it done for France ? To-day it is a look of sorrow and mourning one sees everywhere, but also a look of hope that not only this sad time will pass away, but that France will be reborn and its old faith and fervor will return. You cannot go yery far in Paris without coming to some beautiful masterpiece raised in God’s honor. * It is my delight to visit as many of these as often as I can. When one goes into such cathedrals as Notre Dame, and such churches as La Madeleine, Le Sacre Coeur, St. Augustine, Sainte Trinite, St. Phillippe, St. Roch, St. Germaine, and numerous others with their beautiful old carvings and groups of statuary and magnificent windows, one has) to thank God for the great gifts he has given to these French architects, sculptors, painters, etc. The majority of families have lost some relation in the awful struggle that is going on’ and one cannot go into any church in Paris to-day at any hour without finding very > many in adoration before the tabernacle. On different days during the week, each church has Exposition. Here at St. Phillippe it is Thursday, from the last Mass until 6 o’clock Benediction. This means that the Blessed Sacrament is exposed every day in some church, and one sees fervent souls praying for the one thing, that all France is praying for, a successful issue of this war. One thing you hear on all sides, and that is that peace must not be declared until France and Belgium have been restored. It is very dreadful to think that many tabernacles have been 'desecrated and the' Sacred Host thrown away. The marvel is that Al- . mighty God does not strike those men dead. Every day, here in Paris, one hears of fresh atrocities committed on our priests, nuns, or Catholic people. Since coming to Paris I have-heard a great deal of the German character, as so many resided here, and now to me their actions in this war are more comprehensible. I have not heard anything to their advantage I can assure you. It is very sad to see the poor Belgian refugees here, many who were comfortably off and living happily,' now having to accept charity for the many institutions opened for their relief.. We see a great many of the French and Belgian chorus men and girls; and some of the orchestra, playing and singing in the courtyard. The people in the different flats round throw down whatever they can afford, as these poor theatricals are feeling the war very keenly, as so many of the theatres are closed. Sometimes we have some really good performers. It is very hard on their voices performing so much in the open air, but, poor people, they must live. The poor here are so different from the same class in London. It does not matter how poor they are, they are always clean and tidy ; they do not wear hats but their hair is always done up nicely, and they wear nice clean aprons, even if they are made of patches. They do not seem to lose their self respect, and in. the fourteen weeks I have been here I have not seen one person m intoxicated.- I notice they take a great deal ,of water with., their wine, and really the poor seem to nearly live on bread ; you see them eating quantities of dry bread) There certainly must be a lot of nourishment in their

. - . _ ■ . • . f • bread, as the working men on the roads appear to make their lunch on it, with .perhaps a tiny piece of cheese. - Cap you imagine our working men thriving on, .this ? : : I forgot to say that - , many old barges have been fixed up on the ; Seine,. ■ and here - whole families 'of ' Belgian refugees are housed. As in ! England, ' these poor people are being kept by the generosity of the public. Another thing I have noticed here in all the churches every day after the usual collection;*; a collection is taken up by one of the Ladies of Charity for the poor. This may > account for one'-, seeing so little • poverty, although ' it must be as prevalent : here as in all large cities. / .With regard to the women whose husbands are serving at the-front, they have been allowed to take their husbands’ - place at' work, and consequently you see women as tram conductors (or conductresses if you wish), and even delivering merchandise, such as charcoal and braise, etc., and I have seen one or two driving taxis, ' but these are ; few. It shqws that the women are resourceful; and they are also very thrifty and clever with their needle, which means they make all their own clothes. ; When there is a blue sky overhead and the sun is shining Paris is a succession of beautiful pictures, as all the avenues and boulevards have either, at one end or the other, some magnificent building with a glorious gold dome, or beautifully carved statuary standing out against the clear- sky. ‘ I am sure the view from the La Madeleine steps of La Place de La Concord with its 'fine statues, * its obelisk, fountains, buildings all round, including the Chamber of Deputies with the dome of Les Invalides in the distance is a sight never to be forgotten.:, I could write about places that are a delight to me to look at constantly, but one must come and see them for themselves, it is so different to reading of them. I spend all my time just walking round admiring the picturesque. (To be continued.)