ARCHBISHOP REDWOOD ON HIS TRAVELS

New Zealand Tablet, Volume XXXII, Issue 33, 18 August 1904, Page 3

ARCHBISHOP REDWOOD ON HIS TRAVELS

GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF THE ST. LOUIS

EXHIBITION

Tho following interesting letter fioni Jus (Jrace Arc hbisj>»p RcUwood 1o afi lend in Uellnigtcn has been placed at our disposal ■— » Cbir^gn, .fi'iie l l^ ' I arrived here Hie day befoic je^nlay horn St Louis, where I spent, about a kntn'ighl. Foi seveial day* theie I was t,h e guest of \ieh!nshop („ union, the Archbishop of St. Louis, and the youngest Arc hbishop in the woild, I behe\e, at the piesenl moment being only 12 yeais of age Aitei a while 1 lound that ho became so busy with prepaiations lot the leeepUoii ol Caidmal Saiolh at the St Louis Woilds Fair and wilh olheL business connected with tho ('ei-v's retreat and \anou.s eonln mat ions, that 1 was bcUer somewheie else, and so, wiU) Ins lull knowledge and approval, I became the guest ol the Jesuit Falheis at their splendid I'imeisity of St Loin^, a lew blocks away ftom the Yrehbishop's residence. I met with the most kind and coidial tieat merit at their hands , in fact th,ey expected me to take up my quaiteis with' them on riiy at rival at St. Louis, having invited me to do so m their house at San Kmiihsu. " i;,,t I told them 1 had lirst to be at the Aichbi -hop s, am! tJu n I would see whether (lmuiistances won id 'allow me lo be then guest for a time The \ichbrhop being too busy, .md the Redemptonst Fathers brim, \en dosmnis to' have some Of Iheir candidates oidamed in "then own splendid Ciothic church in St Lour — tl favni nevei v. ( 1 planted to them — they came (in the peison oi then /lovinciaf), in returning my \isit to tliem, 1o ask me to peiform then ordination foi t liens, which 1 did wild nun h pleasbie They boiimud lioia the \i, hi>, ,iiop\ whatever was necessary for the function, and so, to the delight ol then- congregation, 1 oi darned in Iheii chinch (called the ' lock' church on account of tlie stone with which it is built) lor tlnee days jn succes'ion, pioi oting six candidate-; to the Minor Oideis and siv otheis to the priesthood \ccoidingly 1 leu Uie .JesuiK ;nul took U]i my quaitris wit.hthe Redemptoi ists during the da}s oi otdinaiion and' up to the time loi in_\ departure foi Chicago \nd now I am Hint <jjies| ' bee near their magnilicent church of Si Michael, m which I daily say Mass To-day I h.i\ <> just paid my visit t» Dr. Qiiigley, -\ichbishop of Chicago, and also to tinSac red 'Heart Nuns and the .Jr-siul Fathcis While at St. Louis T got a telegram from \i< hbi--hon li eland, oi St. Pawl, asking me to come, of coui^e, to st ]\uil He sSM he was going to Washington foi a week and that afiervards lie was letuinmg home 1 icphed that I was; going shortly to spend a few da>s at ('hicii»o anS then proceed to St Paul 1„m evpe-t tm; to heai from him every day at the (Jieat, \orthein HrJel, wheffe he stays when vi C'lutago Of com -^c F called on the Skcrerl Tleait \'uns ,it St. Louis and sa^ tloi surpassingly beautiful (Jothic ch.-ipel at Maiyv.Je, wl-nli was not built when, about 20 yeais ago I spent awe ek at their chaplain's cottage at the time when ] obtained them for Timaru ' As good luck would have it, T was able 1o preside (instead of the Archbishop ot St' Louis) at the distribution of pii/es in both then establishments a.t St Lotus The affair came oil on boh occasion? most cliarnungly I had plenty of time to .see

The Wo lid's Fair

at St. Louis and spent many ciel'ghiii'l days Uioro, as well a-? evenings to cniov the splendid llluminai ions Let me take you foi a trip in the elect nc cars roi'nd Ihe Exposition- grounds on what is on lied the Intiammral Railway. Jt tra\eises Ihe grounds, winch occupy 1210 acres., in, a circuitous route, with sinpning pi.vVs convenient to e\ery point of interest First \\e come

to a close view of the ornate facade of the palace q£ vaned nidus-tries, scon we pass near lo the tiansportatio,n, electi icily, and machinery palaces, and are in mil vievv lor a moment of the 'pavilions of (Jieat Britain, FL.uice, and 31e\ico. As our train passes on, we see in the distance the agricultural hall, a building, tine laigest of all, coveiing, looting m, 2 3 acres. Next we pass round the administration building, ,a picture of the architecture of O.xfoid and Cambridge Universities ; 'her. vc pa.:.., thro to the halL of anthropology . I3c> ond the hall vi antluopology is Hie hbiary building of the liiiivcisi'.v u,icnip, called Ihe hall oi c<jngi c\sscs. To the west of this hdll is the woman's building, which is occupied by the board of laity -rnartagiVrw of tile exp'osilioji. The aeronautic, concourse, lor' the trial races of an ships and dnigible balloons, comes into wew as we near station i\o 4. At stations Nos. 5 and owe enter the midst of an elaborate plant devoted to physical culUne, the stadium and gia'iute gymnasiums being pionn'nent leatures. We now pass out of the administtation district into a section of Ihe site for out-door exhibits of agiicultuie, hoiticulturc, and foiestry. The I'hilippme encampment also comes into view, an exhibit on which the I mted States (Jovernment has spent over a million dollais, or 4:20(1,000. Arrowhead Lake, an aitihcial body ol water, lies between us and the Filipinos It senes as head water Tor the prevention of "re, ppd t-nv \\ Vc aquatic, sports of the natives ot the Filipino camp Arrowhead takes its name fiom its shape It is 2")0 feet wide and 1,100 tcet long in each v> \h& II i.s Supplied with water tioin the city mains To the light, a.s we wind slightly back, lies the agricultuie hall \U i sec

The J-Jnoimous Floral Clock,

which consist, of a dial 11)0 feet in diameter, the iiiimcuals ou which are about 15 Eret high, ami made enlncly of flow ns on the lull slope. At tihe top of the (li.il we Mr a small house built to contain the mech.inism, and on the top of the house is placed a st]()olb bell, whose tones can be heard thioughout the whole 'gio.nds, and a mammoth hour-glass is exposed to view, 'i lii-b hell strikes the houi and half-hour, and upota the fust stiol.e ol each Jioi.r the immense ho.ur-glass turns and the urns back. At the .same tune the <|( ors ot the house swine; round and open, exposing the me hamsni, uoiied by compressed air, which controls llic linking and operates the dial, a^dt losing instantly i.ni n the la-,1 stroke of the boll At^nig-ht the clock is biiliiaiitly illuminated, and about 1000 electuc lamps |>ie tr,|iiiied foi' the purpose Beside this clock are the 20. -eminent buildings of Ce\lon and Canada We jievt approach the cxtensi\e ])avilion of the French, the fa< simili' of the- (lunii Tnanon and garden ol \ eisaiilcs, installed at ei.oimous cost in liberal th no, nt ion 01 France's histoueal relation^, to "t li«- Louisiana Purchase, which the World's t< .111 conimemoiatOK Opposite is the artificial tV c bunt for the I mted States daily life-saving exhibit ions, which aie \iewcd hy ciowds with intense mtcie-i The a u,t ic ultural hall, the largest and most x\ omlei t"I exhibit palace evei erected, engrosses our attention .1, we teach station No S. It covers, as I h"<i\e 'aid 2 5 anes, having 7 miles of, aisles, awl js (^ \ol c 1 to pi iiit pioducts and food, with it>s accesksones. (pi her ■■eel ions ol the ngnculHn al department have ovl)?l,its outMde the buildme;. In oil t hey comprise the njo-t temaikable displays e\ei assembled m any exposition In the agricultural hall is found 'h part, tlie icst being in the fish and forestry building \uslrjlia lias not exhibited at the St Louis World's Pair, but, .New Zealand's exhibit occupies in both bnild-lUL.-S a coii-,ideranle space well iilled, and most creditabLe 'I- is I lei l quite pivud ot it when I Msited it, meoti'lu; with a \eiy hearty weltome from tne officials in (luige of it Kast of station -No. 8 the Japanese ■ d>\ei unieijt h'ulduiK.s and garden come into view By Ihe way, I may state that Japan in se\eral buildings occupies much space and has made one of the most 1 Silmdid ,r.d jnleiestinc, exhibits in aJI kinds of productiioi's tf) he at the World's Fair. We next sight ti\ o line St«ate buildings, California and Illinois Approaching station No 9 we see the horticulture hall. It. occupies the eminence south of the palace of agriculttl'o Here tihe rose gardens and other florte.l displays belong to the horticultme department and they are ou 9, ' <i,st scale Soon we come to 'the camp of the Boers, o'Jtupyina; a wooded slope, whore fights between the British and the Boers are reproduced by a lacge number of ni(}n Next the live stock and dany barns are accesMole fiom station N T o !). We now skirt tlie forest, and, by, means ef a long loop (1000 feet) in the rear of the ait palace group , and on our way we pass the wild

The New: Zealand FAliibit

animal exhibit of the State of California. We soon approach the plateau of states, the grandest aggregation of special buildings ever erected for an exposition Now we are skirting the mining gulch, where, practical gold mining is carried on artificially, also coal mining, with a vast array of the most up-to-date machinery. We now approach station No. 13, and fiom the car windows see the Inside Inn, a mammoth hotel partly under the control of the Exposition Company. It ca,n accommodato 600(1 suosts At the State huildiaic entrance fstation 11) we see Washington's headquaitcis at TMoi i istown (a facsimile), reproduced as Ihe New Jersey building. Other important buildings loom up, Indiana, lowa, Arkansas, Pennsylvania, Minnesota, Washington. Be} ond these, half huiiden in the trees, aie many other lnteicsting buildings : Maine, West Virginia, New Mexico, etc , etc. Among these State buildings aie a number nl restaurants, so that the visitor 'can pleasantly <-\j)end the hot part of the day in the cool sihade ol the plateau of states, as these State buildings arc collectively called. One, Hundred Thousand Persons can Conveniently Dine in the restaurants on the grounds at one and the .amc time. Moving northwand towards Forest Park borders (the whole exposition is in Foiest Park', occupying twothirds of it), we approach (station 15) the splendid Missouri building, towering majestically over (iitu'inrnentv Hill. On one of the broad ten aces of the sloping grade stands thu United States Government building, architecturally, peihaps, the linest of the whole exposition. Soon we near the Pla/a of Orleans at station 16, and gam a grand general view of the mam picture of the exposition buildings, a splendid vista crowned by the cascades and Art Hill, a view never to be foigotten. The high tower of the wireless tclegiapli is also seen opposite station IG. At the model city, with its interesting models of public utilities, hospital, school, library, town hall, etc , we reach our destination, the end of the Intramural Railway, station 17 and last, and we, for fivepence, have travelled about seven miles From this point the Intramuial cars, carrying dining the day thousands and thousands of visitors, iel urn on parallel tracks in the opposite direction. We ha\ c spent forty minutes on the trip, and ha^vc now a general idea of the location of the chief points of interest we wish to visit. Coming to details (wheie details aie countless), of what shall we spea' in this who it account of what would take months of minute and sei ions examination ; lor it is a veiy world. Let me say a word of tiie landscape and gardens Surrounded on three sides by primeval forests and comprising hill and dale and slope and ia\inc, the grounds aiToided the Louisiana Purchase Exposition architects abundant opportunity for tfhe most beautiful and \aned eflects They tunned every natuial advantage to piofit, with the result that a city of ivory palaces—called so on account of their color— of

Vast Grandeur and Exquisite Beauty rose apparently from a forest. Lovely gloiious \istas everywhere ; thirty-five miles of exposition i odd way , wide avenues between stately palaces or over nariowei and shady paths of the wooded sections' — a constantly ■\arying and ever beautiful landscape. Gardeners of all tho nations ha\e united m producing landscape masteipieccs. But of all the cascade gaidens perhaps take the palm. They are on a slope, in the southern paitof the central pic-tuie, south of the giand basin, which lies between the education and electricity buildings. The feature is half a mile in length, forming a long majestic sweep round the end of the basfn and the comniu'nicating lagp'o,ns. The slope is about 300 feet wide, with a rise of SO feet Between and beyond the cascades I greatly admired the great lawns wilh t<heir rich tapestry of flowers. Cement walks adorned with a liberal use of excellent sculpture complete the decoratne detail. And in the landscape work large trees atimaably set off the decoration. Near Great Britain's national pavilion there is a most charming garden , it is a replica of the ora-ngery of the Kensington Palace, London, surrounded by an English country seat garden of 200 years ago. You see the old-fashioned roses, the juniper, and tJie yew, and other shrubs pruned into fotms of lions, peacocks, and other birds and ajnmals. Parallel rows of poplars form the side walks Their crossing and meeting blanches made a roof of shade through which flickers the proper degree of .light. The treatment of the French gardens of Versailles round the Grand Trianon is equally elaborate. Then you have the garden of Pekin, in which the Pa Lun domicile is gorgeous in scarlet, gold, ebony, and blue, the same extravagance of coloring being conspicuous in the garden effect. A fragile pagoda and a pool of gold fishes set in cases of Chinese lilies, peonies, and roses, lend a pecu-

liarly Oriental aspect. Agricultural hill, an admirable site for the purpose, is adorned with perhaps

The Largest Rose Gaiden in the World. It covers 10 acres and contains- over 75,000 rose bushes ai ranged in a million blossoms. Another extiaordinary pave ol gardening is the gigantic map of the united States, occupying fi\ c acies, each State being represented by native plants and glasses, a total of fc>2o dislinc| nf p] a ,,t iif o Tin* map aTd it^ underlaid diains tost £301)0 It would be impossible in this letter to give }ou any adequate notion of the count less treasuies of science, art, and industry contained in the vast buildings covering, that is, roofing m, 128 acres. So I will desciibe whatever comes to my memory as my pon urns. The electrical eflects are a feature ol the World's Fan. Neaily 120,1)1)0 electric lamps turn night into day, picking out in lovely outline the magnificent specimens of architecture i\nd the surrounding giounds. From some standpoints you see at one tune o \er 90,0*01) lights all aglow. On the vanod industries building alone 15,000 lamps shine in chains of incandescent splendor. Charming as are the cascades and their .surroundings in the daytime, the sight at night is lar moie impressive and entrancing. Twenty (housand incandescent electric lamps form the illuminations. Globes oi three colors thrill the sight. And the g?nndenr of Iho ni<-lurp is heightened by Ihe fact that the lights which hgine in the gorgeous night view are in largest, number concealed, making the illumination a icdected one Inder the steps or ledges of the cascades, wheie the water falls m copious sheets, rows of \ariegaU'd lamps aie arranged. Who could describe the charm of the different hues forcing their lays through the descending water, which also delights the ear with its pla<-h and murmur

The Picture Paffles Description : we are m the dieams of fanyland. I whall never forI>,A, one night when with a pai ty of friends, we took a ical Venetian gondola with real Venetian 'gioldoliers, good singei-. too, and glided smoothly over the tepid waters with their wavelets shimmering in the light, going for over two miles lound the splendid illuminated buildings and in liont of Uie cascades and festival hall. As legaids music, there is no 'ack of good music at the exposition Theie are eight attiactne band stands in the grounds and three good bands, of vanous nationalities', aro heaid daily. Then in the grand festival hall, which tioweis several hundred feet above the cascades and loims the most attractive feature in the centre of the giand picluie oi the assembled buildings, you can hear, as 1 did, the largest organ in the workl It covers a space M feet wide, (>2, feet long, and is 40 feet high It has fne manual-., 110 speaking stops, 289 movements, ajid 10,0,"i ( ) pipes Built by a Los Angeles i ompany in California, it lequnod a tiain of 11 cars for its transjioi talion An oithestra of 80 carefully selected plajei 1 - gives conceits in the festival hall and elsevvhe.re. r I be concerts cost you a shilling and the organ recitals sixpence. Sonic of the 'best choial societies in Ameiica give occasional conceits of standard and model n woiks School children are also heard wi massed conceits in the stadium or in the iesti\al hall. I would ha\e a thousand other vvondeis to tell }ou about, but why try to do so in a lettei 9 \ olumes would be requiied or days of < onversation on the most varied topics So good-bye to the St. Louis "Wood's Fair, in my opinion far more beaut ltul and splendid than til at of Chicago, which I saw m IS!) 3

The letter I wrote fioin Los Angeles in California has tiold you of my delightful and instructive visit to South California, to the wonderful iig and olive and plum and giape and oiange plantations, where, by irrigation, a desert has been turned into a very paradise. According to pnor arrangement Father Smyth, who had been at Portland and Seattle, o\er 800 miles north of San Francisco, joined me at Salt Lake City, where we weie the guests of the Manst Fathers in All Hallows College, ;nd right royally they treated us for several days. At last we both reached St. Louis and saw the Fair for some days together Then Father Smyth went south to New Orleans and Algiers and Jefferson College, to see .his old conficres asrain in the places where he spent some years prior to his departure with me for New Zealand, nineteen years ago We shall meet again at Washington. I am going in a few days to St. Paul with Archbishop Ireland, who will arrive here from St. Louis in a few days. Atterwards I shall go to New York and Washington, and then (when I hope the Atlantic will be asleep towards the end of July) we (Father Smyth and T) shall sail for Liverpool via Qucenstown. Ireland. So far the weather at St. Louis and here has been very unusually cool. Some days, however,

The Heat was Rather \Oppressive,

the thermometer at night being 80 degrees. The days are very long and also the twilight, it is so pleasant to sit out of an evening and watch the fire-flios and enjoy the relative coolness. There arc pleasant shady parks here along the lake which, when the north or cast wind blows, gieatly cools the atmosphere, part.icula.ily at night. Yesterday my old friend, Father (ialligan, who, thank Clod, is in excellent health, came from St. Patrick's Church to see me, and I am going to dine with him to-day. You perhaps remember him when, some years aao, he visited Wellington at the time of thd clergy s letieat, and greatly amused everybody with his racy American wit and Iminui. I IVnd loto of people much interested in JNew Zealand and her social experiments and reforms, ot which 1 have no I a little tv tell them.. By the bye, Father O'Hallorun. horn Kumara, met me at the Fair. He is well.' (A further interesting letter from his Grace Archbishop Redwood will be published in our next issiue.)