A TRIP TO THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.

New Zealand Tablet, Volume XXV, Issue 17, 3 September 1897, Page 6

A TRIP TO THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.

(From our Wellington correspondent)

I HAD a chat a" few days ago with the Very Rev. Dr. Watters, S.M., concerning his trip to the South Sea Islands, and I gleaned from him some information regarding this little-known land, which I thought might be of interest to the readers of the Tablet. The popular Rector of St. Patrick's College had for a companion in his holiday tour, Dr. Martin, a well-known medico of this city. They left Auckland by the Flora on the last day of June, and after a passage of four and a half days arrived at Tonga. It may be here mentioned that the Tongan group, as well as other South Sea Islands, has been under the spiritual control of the Marist Fathers. As far back as 1842 missions were established in the Tongan group by those self-sacrificing Fathers. At Magunga our travellers called on the Very Rev. Father Oilier, by whom, it is needless to observe, they were made heartily welcome. Here there is a beautiful church, built of coral stone, with stained glasa windows and ceiling of kauri and other woods. The sacred edifice is a very fine building, and altogether superior to what the visitor would expect in this out-of-the-way place. There are no pews in the church, the natives squatting comfortably on the floor or on their tapa cloths. The men occupy one side of the church the women the other. Out of a population of 30,000 in this group, the Catholic Church claims the cure of 7,000 souls scattered about the different islands. There is here also a flourishing college for native boys under the charge of the Rev. Father Thomas. Tne college has a fine recreation ground, a chapel, class rooms, dining rooms, and dormitories. At the evening service, at which our visitors -were present, the intonation, prayers, and singing were conducted by a full choir of natives under the direction of a catechist. The peculiar sing-song of the natives, with their voices rising and falling in the dark church, the altar brilliantly lighted, with the priests in surplices, produced a very solemn and thrilling effect. On the same evening under the still silent sky of the tropics the visitors were rowed in an open boat by twenty-four powerful natives, to the mission or Mua, where they were hospitably entertained. The venerable priest in charge of this station has been in the Tongan group for thirty-five years. Very few of us can guage the extent of such sacrifice. These noble men of the highest culture and with all the intellectual equipments which tend towards success in the world, leave home, friends, country, everything that is near and dear to them in a worldly sense and bury themselves in these far away and little known lands, spreading the Gospel among people not always friendly, enduring hardships and privations, which would appal less brave men, having no prospect of earthly gain, and only buoyed up with their sense of duty and the hope of an eternal reward. But a truce to moralising. Next morning the visitors were early afoot, and were singularly edified on seeing the church full of natives who had come to assist at the Holy Sacrifice of the Mass, which began at half past five o'clock. After a refreshing breakfast an adjournment was made to the convent where the party was received by the Rev. Mother. An improvised entertainment was got up in honour of the visitors. For over an hour these children of nature, who^e mariner* had been soften' d by the kindly ministrations of their devoted teachers, kept the attention of their visitors riveted with illustrations ot Tongi.n song and dance, as they went through the graceful movements wiili hemiing eyes and flashing teeth. At the conclu^mi of the entertainment a fine specimen of the übiquitous iriMimim came up m the scene and claimed an acquaintance. Mr jVLi" :i Ljncli. for that was his name, invited the visitors to his rend n c where h« extended that hospitality for which his nation is distinguished. The remainder of the morning was devoted^ to visiting the motive houses and getting an insight into their manner of lhing, ai>d generally observing the Tongan on "his native heath." The lan«is or torubs are well worth the attention and observation oi travellers. These are monoliths laid fence- wi*e enclosing plot* o f ground, in area 2"> it-et by 15 feet, and marking the place where aocoiding to lo -al tradition, the kings of Tonga have ionnd a re-fcing p'aec from time immemorial. Among the " largis " — tombs. — hhow n at Mua is that of the venerable missionary Pore Chevior, S.M . who 1 aided at Tongatahu in 1842. and for nearly half a century expended himself in r< claiming and sanctifying the native.-!. Speaki.igof the tropuil vegetation Dr. Watters said that any one having any appr -ciation of t'.ic beautiiul could not help being struck v> ith the luxuriance and variety of the vegetation of these Islands. You see everywhere the sensithe plant (jnimnsa jjudira) covering the green sward, and .shrinking up at the slightest touch. The yellow hebisens dots the bush with flowers and leaves, and invites the traveller to help himself to a dainty buttonhole. All around are seen in profusion exotics of every kind, which only grow in temperate climes under the protecting care of a hot house, such as the kava, gardenia, diacmua. crotous. Noticeable in all the villager is the Tongan bell, whioh is a'i institution in itself, and is used to denote the order of exercises. This instrument is a hollow trough-like affair hewed out of a hard block of wood, and when struck giving a sound peculiar to itself. After having seen the many sights to be seen at Mua in the limited time at their disposal the party set out on the return journey of 12 mile-* to Nukua Lofti, the trip being periornud in open boat. Whilst in Nukua Lofa, a visit was paid to the Bishop's palace. A large gathering cf nxtives and Europeans assembled mi the wharf to see them oft". It was a merry, happy crowd indeed, chattering and dancing and enjoying themselves as only a South Sea Islander can, as he has no thought for the morrow, no anxiety about the price of wheat, or a fall in wool, or a hardening or tli«> money market, or the hundred and one other things which disquiet the inhabitants of n oncivilised lands and interfere with their digestion, tor here nature has been most lavish in the abundance of her gifts. Your Tongan man does not work.. Why should lie work .' Bountiful nature has supplied his most extravagant wants, and without trouble he can always rely on a

plentif ulness of cocoa nuts, yams, tara, bread fruit, bananas, et hoc omne genus. Why should he work, when by scratching the bounteous soil he can have for himself and his neighbour all that, in the the wildest dreams of his satiety, he can desire I Shortly after five o'clock the Flora w.ts steaming past ihe coral re«f at the entrance to the harbour of Nukaa LoEu and making easy way for the next port of call, Hacpai. This island was reached in the early morning, when a boat rowed by natives was in waiting to take the visitors ashore, where they were heartily welcomed by the Rev. Father Loyer, S.M. This island has an area or' five miles by two. The visitors spent the greater part of the day in exploring the island, among other places of interest they inspected the King's palace. Of course, like his brother potentates of Germany, Russia and elsewhere, his Majesty of Tonga has several residences, that in Haapai being one of them. The island of Vavau was also cad-.d at and here the acquaintance was made of the venerable pastor, the Rev. Father Castagnier, who has spent forty years of his lile on the island group without once leaving the scene of his labours. What devotion I What self -sacrifice ! Looking at the matter Irom a purely secular point of view, we can only wonder how many a statesman, a scientist, an inventor, an orator has been lost to the world when these noble men left home and friends and devoted their lives to the service of their Creator. At Vavau also there is a very fine church, whioh in its style and ornamentation could not fail to impress the beholder with admiration and reverence. From the hill of Talan an extensive and magnificent view was obtained over the harbour, the various inlets and sounds and the neighbouring islets. The population of this island was computed at some 60,000 souls some years ago, but according to the customary law which peems to invariably govern the advent of European amongst aboriginal people, the population has been steadily decreasing so that now it is not more than half that number. Ex ellent work is done in the schools in the way of primary education, and Dr. Watters has an autograph written by a native girl, which would be no discredit to a high school Miss of more civilised lands. It would not be considered just to close this account of the Tongan group without making reference to the national beverage of the natives — namely kava — which is manufactured from a root which is to be found in abundance there. This decoction has a slightly soporific effect, and is generally indulged in. The visitors were treated to some of this, which they accepted with right good will. Like many other strange drinks this requires a good deal of practice to make it acceptable to the European palate. As an account of the visit to the other islands would occupy too much space, I am perforce obliged to conclude. Suffice it to say that the visitors were heartily welcomed wherever they called, and always received the kindest attention from the natives. Many mementoes of the trip were brought back, including mats, domestic utensils, articles for wearing apparel, etc . whilst the inevitable camera lent its aid in transferring to paper pictures of churches and schools, groups of natives, and sketches of tropical scenery.