Jams, Jallies, and Conserves

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 99, Issue 5, 16 November 1959, Page 497

Jams, Jallies, and Conserves

By

ELEANOR S. CAMPBELL,

formerly Home Science Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Auckland

THE making of jams and jellies is not really difficult and the sight of rows of gleaming jars of these preserves made from fresh fruit picked at just the right stage to retain the maximum amount of flavour is ample repayment for the trouble taken.

'T'HE equipment needed is simple and -*■ inexpensive. A large kettle or preserving pan is necessary. A good type to use is a heavy cast aluminium pan with a flat, broad base and fairly shallow. This shape allows the jam to come to a full rolling boil without danger of boiling over the sides. Other requirements are a pair of kitchen scales, a wooden spoon, a colander, a wooden board, and sharp knives. For jellies a large, muslin jelly bag is also necessary and a sugar thermometer, though not an absolute necessity, can be a great help.

Any type of glass jar is suitable for jam provided that the top is wide enough for the jam to be removed with a spoon. Straight-sided glass jars are best for jellies or, if the sides slope slightly, the diameter at the top must be wider than at the base. Small jars are best so that the jelly can be tipped right out. *

Basic Ingredients for Jams The fruit is the base and provides the characteristic flavour. Most fruits also contain pectin and acid in varying proportions. These two ingredients have to be present in the correct proportion to ensure a satisfactory jell. Different fruits contain varying amounts and the maturity of the fruit when picked also affects the amount of pectin present. Below is listed the pectin and acid content of fruits. If fruit with a low pectin content is used, a jell can be obtained either by mixing in other fruit with a high pectin

content or by using home-made or commercial pectin extracts. Should the fruit be low in acid, this is easily remedied by the addition of lemon juice or citric or tartaric acid. Sugar helps in the jell formation and also inhibits mould and bacterial growth and therefore helps to preserve the fruit and adds to the flavour. Honey may be used to replace part of the sugar. The amount of water used, if any, depends on the type of fruit. Fruits Rich in Pectin and Acid Apples, especially Green grapes sour apples Guavas Cranberries Grapefruit Red and black Lemons currants Blackberries, Gooseberries slightly unripe Loganberries Raspberries Fruits Rich in Pectin, but not Acid

Some kinds of apples Quinces Fruits Poor in Pectin Ripe apricots Pineapples Cherries Strawberries Fruits Poor in Both Pectin and Acid Elderberries Pears Peaches

Testing Fruit for Pectin Cook the fruit until soft, put a teaspoonful of the fruit pulp or juice into a cup, and allow to . cool. Add one tablespoonful of methylated spirit. Pour the mixture into another cup or on to a saucer. If a large clot forms, there is plenty of pectin... If only small, weak clots form, pectin is lacking. \ Rules for Jam Making 1. Choose only sound, fresh fruit. Note: Some fruits contain more pectin if slightly underripe, but a better flavour is obtained if fully mature fruit is used. A judicious mixture of the two is often satisfactory. 2. Measure quantities correctly. Measure or weigh the fruit after it has been prepared, that is, washed, cut, if necessary, and all stems, leaves, and other unwanted pieces removed. Weigh out the correct amount of sugar. Measure the right quantity of water according to the recipe. 3. Do not try to make too large a quantity at a time, especially when making jelly. 4. Have all equipment clean and ready to use. Jars must be absolutely clean, washed and rinsed in hot water, allowed to drain, and then placed in a warm oven until the jam is ready. They will: then be clean and warm when the hot jam.is poured into them and should not crack. 5. When the sugar has been added and dissolved, boil the jam as quickly . as possible until it is ready to set. 6. Fill, the jars, cover, wipe clean, and allow to cool before labelling. 7. Store in a cool, dry place. Sealing the Jars There are various ways of sealing jam and jelly jars. Some housewives make a very successful job simply by using rounds of greaseproof paper on top of the jam and then pasting paper over the top. However, transparent covers are available commercially in neat packets with rubber bands and labels. These are not expensive and are very easy to apply. Paraffin wax also makes an excellent airtight seal and is especially suitable for jellies. Sealing Jars with Wax Hot method: Melt the wax carefully in a bowl or jug over hot water. Keep away from flame. Fill the jar with hot jam to within about an eighth of an inch of the rim. Carefully pour a little melted wax straight on top of the jam and turn the jar so that it forms a complete seal. Allow this wax to set hard and then pour another layer of melted wax on top of the first. Cold method: Fill the jars with jam, cut a round of greaseproof paper .to fit the top of the jar, and cover the jam with this. When the jam is cold and set pour the melted wax on top,

turning the jar carefully so that all crevices are filled. Leave a layer of wax not less than an eighth of an inch thick to form the seal. For jellies fill the jars almost to the brim with hot jelly. Allow to cool. When cold and set it will have shrunk sufficiently to allow for a layer of wax. Pour the hot, melted wax directly on to the jelly, turning the jar to ensure complete coverage. Basic Recipe for Jam The usual ingredients are 1 lb of prepared fruit to 1 lb of white sugar. The amount of sugar, as with water, will vary with the fruit. Fruits rich in pectin and acid will take more sugar, that is, up to 1| lb of sugar per pound of fruit. Those fairly rich in pectin will take pound per pound, and for fruits poor in pectin use only $ lb of sugar . per pound of fruit. The amount of water varies according to the juiciness of the fruit. Method: Prepare the fruit and weigh it. Measure the. water, if necessary, and add to the fruit in the preserving pan. Add the acid and cook the fruit gently until it is soft and tender. When the fruit is cooked add the sugar (this can be warmed in the oven while the fruit is cooking). Stir until the sugar is completely dissolved. Boil briskly for a short time until the jam is ready to set. Cool the jam slightly, then pour into clean jars, wipe, and cover. Testing for Setting Point The easiest and most satisfactory way is to use a sugar thermometer. Warm the thermometer by putting it in hot water before plunging it into the boiling jam. The setting point is reached between 220 degrees and 222 degrees F. Household Tests Put a little jam in a saucer and leave it to cool. Take the pan off the heat while doing this test, as, if the setting point has been reached, the jam will overcook while the test piece is cooling. It is at the right stage if the jam on the saucer wrinkles or forms a skin when a finger is lightly drawn across it. Sheet or Flake Method Put a cold metal spoon into the jam and, lifting it above the pan, gently tip it up. If the drops run together and fall off in a sheet, the setting point has been reached. Rules for Jelly Making The notes on equipment and preparation of fruit apply as much for jelly making as for jam. With jelly, however, it is more important to cook only small quantities at a time. Also

it is very important to have the correct amount of pectin and acid. If it is desired to make jelly from fruits low in pectin such as peaches, then the addition of home-made or commercial pectin is advised, or some fruit high in pectin content such as apples should be mixed in. Making Jelly Prepare the fruit by washing it under running water. A colander is useful for this, as the fruit can be well washed and still not be left soaking in water. All stalks and leaves are removed, but not the skins or cores. Large fruits such as apples and quinces may be quartered or cut into smaller pieces, but skins and cores are left. . Put the fruit into the pan and add water, according to the recipe • given. Cook until the fruit is soft and pulpy. Cooking too long destroys the pectin. Strain by placing the pulped fruit and juice in a jelly bag or a large square of cheese cloth, tie the top, and allow it to hang so that the juice will drip through into a container. Leave it hanging overnight until all the juice has dripped through. If the bag is twisted or squeezed to get all the juice possible from the first extraction, the juice must be strained again through a double thickness of cheese cloth. Testing for pectin is not always necessary, but it may be a help to apply the pectin test to the juice before making the jelly. Measure the juice and weigh out the sugar required. Heat the juice and as soon as it boils, add the sugar, and boil briskly until it is ready to set. Remove the scum and pour the jelly into clean, pre-heated jars. Cover as for jam, cool, and store in a dry, airy place. Conserves Fruit conserves, or whole-fruit jams, are the same as jam except that the fruit is left whole in the case of small fruits like strawberries or in pieces of uniform size and shape if larger fruit is used. In jams the fruit is generally pulpy or has to some extent lost its shape, and consistency should be reasonably smooth and uniform throughout. With conserves, however, the fruit becomes translucent as it is cooked, retains its shape, and is surrounded by clear thickish syrup. RECIPES Jams Plum Jam (Recipe 1) 4 lb of plums 4 lb of sugar ■ Approximately J pint of water

If plums are large, wash and stone them. If small, wash them, add water, and simmer gently until the fruit is soft. Skim off any stones which float to the top. Add sugar, stir until dissolved, then boil hard until setting point is reached, usually about 20 to 30 minutes. Plum Jam (Recipe 2) (Suitable for greengages, yellow gages, or damsons.) Allow f lb of sugar to each pound of fruit. Wash and split the plums and remove the stones. Place the fruit in a large bowl and cover with half of the sugar. Leave to stand overnight. Then put the fruit and sugar into a preserving pan and bring slowly to the boil. Simmer until, plums are tender. Add the rest of the sugar and boil rapidly until a set is reached (20 to 30 minutes). Raspberry Jam 4lb of raspberries 3 lb of sugar : Wash the fruit and place it in the preserving pan. No water need be added. Heat gently until the juice comes out of the fruit. Bring to the boil and simmer until the fruit is tender. Add the sugar, stir until dissolved, and boil rapidly until setting point is reached (approximately 15 minutes). . Peach, Apple, and Ginger Jam 2 lb of ripe peaches 2 oz of crystallised 1 tablespoon of lemon . ginger juice 2 lb of sour apples 3 lb of sugar Wash the peaches and cut into pieces, removing skins and stones. Wash, peel, and core apples. Tie the peel and cores in a small piece of muslin. Quarter the apples. Put all the fruit and the bag of peel and cores into a preserving pan, add a little water, and bring gently to the boil. Simmer until tender. Remove the bag of peel and cores. Add lemon juice and sugar and chopped crystallised ginger. Boil fast until a set is obtained. Dried Apricot Jam 2J lb of sugar 3 pints of water 1 lb of dried apricots Wash the fruit well, add hot water, and soak for 24 hours. Boil until the fruit is clear and soft. Add sugar, stir until dissolved, then boil fast until jam will set. The addition of 2 oz of blanched, chopped almonds improves the flavour. Jellies Home-made Pectin Stock Suitable fruits to use are apples or red or black currants. Use 2 pints of water to 6 lb of fruit. Wash the fruit, cut apples, but do not peel or core. Put in pan, add

water, and stew gently until fruit is soft. Mash well. Strain through a jelly bag. Bring the juice to the boil and store in sterilised jars. Grape Jelly Wash and stem the grapes, place in the preserving c pan, but do not add water. Heat slowly until the juice starts to flow. Turn up the heat until the juice flows freely. Place the juice and fruit in a jelly bag and leave to drip. Measure the juice and add an equal quantity of sugar. Stir until

dissolved then boil rapidly until a set is obtained. Start testing for a set after 10 to 15 minutes, and test each 5 minutes afterward. Take jelly off the heat while testing. Remove the scum and pour into warm, sterilised jars. Quince Jelly 4 lb of quinces 3 cup of sugar to Lemon juice each , cup of juice Water to cover fruit About a quarter of the quinces should be underripe and the rest of

them mature. Wash, and remove the stems from the quinces but do not peel or core. Cut the fruit into small pieces, put it in the pan and barely cover with water. Simmer approximately half an hour or until the fruit is soft. Strain through a jelly bag overnight. Measure. the juice, add 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice per cup of juice, and 5 cup of sugar per cup of juice. Put all into a pan and bring to the boil, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved. Boil quickly until a set is obtained. Remove the scum and pour into jars. Mint Jelly This makes a change from mint sauce and is a pleasant accompaniment for lamb or mutton, either hot or cold. 2lb of cooking apples Ilb of sugar to each Large bunch of mint pint of juice Water to cover apples J pint of white Green colouring vinegar or J pint of lemon juice Wash and cut up the apples, but do not peel or core. Put them in the pan and barely cover with water, simmer gently until the fruit is quite soft. Strain through a jelly bag. Measure the juice and put it in a preserving pan with the vinegar or lemon juice. Bruise and chop up washed mint leaves and stalks and add to juice. Bring slowly to the boil. Strain again, bring, the liquid to the boil, add warmed sugar and boil briskly for 4 to 5 minutes until a set is obtained. Add a few drops of green colouring, put in warm, sterilised jars, and cover when cool. Conserves or Whole-fruit Jams Strawberry Conserve 2 lb of strawberries 2 tablespoons of 2 cups of sugar lemon juice Use only perfect, ripe, well coloured fruit. Wash them thoroughly, hull, and leave whole. Place the berries in a pan and sift over them | cup of sugar. Add the lemon juice and stand overnight. Next day add the rest of the sugar, heat gently until sugar has dissolved, then heat to boiling and boil rapidly for 7 minutes. Pour into hot, sterilised jars and seal. Cherry Conserve 2 lb of cherries 3 cups of sugar 1 tablespoon of lemon juice Choose well ripened, firm fruit. Leave the stems on. Wash the fruit well, drain, pit to remove stones, leaving. cherries as whole as possible. Put fruit into a preserving pan, stir in the sugar, cover, and leave until the sugar is dissolved. Put over a low heat and bring gently to boiling point. Add the lemon juice and boil rapidly approximately 15 minutes until the fruit is clear and the syrup thick. Cover and leave overnight, when the fruit will absorb some of the syrup. Pack in hot, sterilised jars and seal as usual. . All photographs by Sparrow.

The Pros and Cons of

Spinach

POP-EYE has gone and with him many of the extravagant claims which were made concerning the virtues of spinach. Some will regret that this gruff old fellow has faded from the scene, but others who dislike this vegetable may be somewhat relieved. His contention was that no little boy would grow into a big, strong man unless he ate his spinach, and many small boys struggled manfully to eat up their quota in the belief that it would have some magical effect. Probably no vegetable has caused more controversy than spinach and the other leafy greens such as silver beet, chard, and New Zealand spinach. In the earlier days of nutrition research these greens were found to contain appreciable amounts of calcium with some iron and other valuable minerals and vitamins. Because of this they were given to babies in the form of puree, and conscientious mothers continued to regard them as an important part of their children’s diet. Later the results of numerous experiments on rats showed that because of the high proportion of oxalic acid which these vegetables contained the calcium was utilised very poorly if at all. It was even thought that the oxalate present might render unavailable the calcium from other important foods such as milk. This was the first blow to Pop-eye.

The ■ amount of oxalic acid varies with different varieties, silver beet containing less than spinach and New Zealand spinach. Though the reactions which take place in the body may not be the' same as test-tube experiments, in theory it would take 5 oz. of milk to neutralise the excess oxalate in an average serving (100 grammes) of silver beet and 8 to 9 oz. of milk to neutralise a similar serving of New Zealand spinach. However, if children have their full quota of milk, they obtain far more calcium than the small amount neutralised by the oxalates in spinach. In 1948 Professor H. C. Sherman, a world authority on nutrition, issued the following statement: “Let us make frank and full confession that spinach was a mistaken choice as a green to be especially recommended and let us now promote broccoli, cabbage, kale, loose leaf lettuce, mustard greens, turnip greens, or water-cress” —a second blow to Pop-eye. However, it is also argued that as the few balance studies carried out on humans do not show evidence of any significant effects of calcium unavailability if greens such as spinach, silver beet, chard, and New Zealand spinach are eaten in normal amounts, they should not be condemned. We may conclude that as in feeding the family we do not depend on silver beet or spinach for our supplies of calcium, there is no reason why they should not be included in moderation in our diet to provide variety. They are easy to grow and they supply some iron, vitamin C, and carotene, but they can no longer be recommended as a good source of calcium. If a child likes spinach, let him eat it. If he dislikes it, there is no good reason to make an issue of it; rather make sure he gets some other vegetable or fruit during the day.

—ELEANOR COUSTON,

Home Science Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch