Bedding, feints in Grower Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 95, Issue 1, 15 July 1957, Page 96

Bedding, feints in Grower Garden

|N many parts of New Zealand bedding plants can be flowered throughout the year. Compared with other plants they are quickly established and soon provide a colourful display; they are therefore grown in nearly every garden. In this article K. H. Marcussen, Horticulturist, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch, discusses the various types of bedding plants and how they should be used to the best advantage. Notes on garden work for August are by Rosalie A. Campion, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Wellington.

NOT all bedding plants are true annuals, but most are treated as such because they give a more colourful and even display during their first year. Some bedding plants, such as antirrhinum, salvia, and frilled petunia, can be cut back after flowering to encourage further flowers. That can sometimes be done in a mixed border, where symmetry of the plants is not so important, but in a separate bed it is seldom satisfactory.

Annuals must perpetuate themselves by seed; once seed is being produced on an annual flower plant the quality of blooms deteriorates and its life is shortened. To keep a display of annuals, spent blooms should there-

fore be removed whenever it is possible, even if this is a tedious and often difficult job. Types Bedding plants are generally described according to type. The term annuals is used haphazardly and often includes many plants which botanically are not annuals. The following definitions are commonly used: — Hardy comprise the largest group. These subjects can be grown anywhere in the country without protection of glass and many are better sown in the position in which they are to flower, and thinned instead of being transplanted. Half-hardy bedding plants will not tolerate winter conditions in colder districts, where they are generally most satisfactory when raised under glass. They can then be planted out in late spring or early summer, when the soil has warmed up. Many of the plants. used for summer displays in southern districts come into this group, but in the warmer districts they can be treated as hardy. . Tender subjects generally require protection until they have reached the planting out stage. They should not be planted in fully-exposed positions. Adequate shelter and in some places partial shade should be provided for best results. Biennials are a group of plants which generally do not flower until the second season. They are usually raised from seed sown in late summer, left to develop during winter, and come into flower early the following summer; Canterbury bells, for example. Some perennials are grown in the same way and could be left in for several years, but the first flowering is usually the best. Sweet William

and Brompton stocks are typical of this type. Some bedding plants which are grown this way in northern European countries can be raised and will flower in one season in New Zealand, as the season is longer, especially in northern districts. Bedding carnations, for example, can be overwintered as young plants in colder districts, but will

flower from midsummer on if sown under glass in early spring. Perennials and shrubs are also used for bedding displays and can provide attractive and unusual arrangements. Young plants are generally most satisfactory. Delightful displays can be made with hydrangeas, fuchsias, Cuphea ignea (cigar plant) and heliotrope. Geraniums are unparalleled in the colder districts where cuttings

rooted in early autumn and wintered in a glasshouse or in frames will give a floral display during the whole of the next summer. Bedding dahlias which are raised from seed have become popular. Shrubs can sometimes be used as standards; either among similar plants or as spot-plants for contrast, bringing height into an arrangement.

Bulbs and corms are used for bedding displays and are then generally interplanted with other plants, so that the flowering season of the bed or border is extended. Though by this means a better display can be obtained, it is frequently to the detriment of the bulbs. Plants used for interplanting are often hosts for aphids and thrips, and such infestations may cause spread of virus diseases in the bulbs and corms. Furthermore, bulbs and corms can seldom be lifted at the correct time and will consequently suffer. Use of Bedding Plants Formal Beds ' The advantage of using bedding plants is that displays can be planned for special occasions and the arrangement can be altered every time the beds are replanted. When a formal bed is being planned subjects which have a long flowering period should be chosen. Several months will pass from planting before flowering begins. If subjects such as cornflower or candytuft are used, the display will soon be finished, but plants such as petunias, phlox, and salvias will flower most of the season. Annual Borders In contrast to formal beds annual borders may be planted up with bedding plants. Here the plants need not be set out in the same way as for a formal display. Greater variation can be made and the flowering season of the border extended by the use of early as well as late flowering subjects. Some gardeners plant these annual borders with specific plants in groups or drifts to give bold displays of colour here and there. The advantage of this method is that when a batch of plants have finished flowering they can be pulled out, and after adequate soil preparation a new batch

planted. In northern areas this will ensure flowers in the border throughout the year. This method will not be so satisfactory in districts where growth is decidedly slowed up in winter, as few bedding plants will flower during winter in such districts, and spring and summer bedding is practised. Variousbedding plants can be interplanted, so that early subjects will provide colourwhile later flowering ones develop.. This demands great care in planning,, but excellent examples can be seen, every year in many home gardens in. southern centres. Mixed Borders The mixed border provides a situation where bedding plants can be used to advantage; herbaceous perennials have seasonal flowering and judicious use of bedding plants can enhance its beauty. Hardy bedding plants, which are best sown in the position where they are to flower, fit well into the layout of the mixed border. Other Parts of the Garden Some of the dwarf bedding plantswill be found useful to provide additional colour in the rock garden. Permanent plants should not be smothered and it is generally wise to use only subjects which do not seed, prolifically or seedlings may become a nuisance in future years. Some annuals can also be used between stepping stones. Livingstone daisy (mesembryanthemum) and portulaca are often used; it should be remembered, however, that though they do well in such situations, they are not suitable for walking on. Bedding plants used between bulbs not only extend the flowering season, but the number of bulbs required for a bed can be reduced. Best results are generally obtained if contrasting colours are used, as the flowers from the bulbs will then show up more distinctly. A new shrubbery will not look very spectacular for several years after planting. Interplanting with bedding plants is very satisfactory, provided the temporary plants are kept well out in the open spaces. Not only should adequate space be left for the shrubs to develop, but there should be no competition for plant food and moisture. Window boxes and tubs can be planted up with bedding plants and have special uses. Sometimes it is more convenient to keep the containers in a reserve area where they can be given better care and protection than might be the case if kept in the position in which they eventually will be used.

Many bedding plants provide good cut flowers. Formal beds are not a good source of supply, as the removal of some flowers may unbalance the arrangement, but the annual border and particularly the mixed border provide good scope. When the display for the season is planned enough suitable subjects should always be included to ensure the normal supply of cut flowers for the home. Raising the Plants Some bedding plants do best when sown directly in their flowering position, thereby avoiding any check to growth through pricking out and transplanting. In this group are the ones which flower for a fairly short period, such as candytuft, cornflower, linaria, mignonette, night-scented stock, and shirley poppy, and for most true annuals it is claimed to be the best method. Bedding plants, which flower for an extended period, usually grow better if pricked out and transplanted, because a more compact root system will then develop. By this method more plants can be raised in a confined area and in glasshouses seed boxes are almost universally used and are very satisfactory. Raising of plants from seed was dealt with in an article on propagation in the December 1956 issue of the ■“Journal”, but it cannot be stressed too often that only by giving adequate attention and care to young seedlings can the best flowering be expected. It is important that seedlings do not become drawn. Sufficient spacing should be allowed either through pricking out, transplanting, or thinning. It is generally false economy to use cheap or old seed. The facilities required and the labour spent in raising the seedlings are the same, but good seed germinate well and first-class plants true to type and colour should result; not always so when cheap or old seed is used. Preparing and Planting No plants can be expected to develop to their best without proper preparation of the soil before sowing or planting. Bedding plants are no exception, but because they are short lived, such cultivation is often curtailed. Lack of organic matter is common in flower beds and borders and if the climate is favourable, many plants can be grown on a supply of artificial fertilisers. Dry periods, however, are often the test of a good soil. Where a soil contains adequate organic matter the plants have better roots and whether watering is carried out or not, the plants are able to obtain more moisture. When watering is carried out a soil rich in organic matter will absorb the water much better and will not pack tightly nor will it crack when drying out afterward.

It is good practice to dig in a small dressing of animal manure or compost every time a batch of plants is removed from a flower bed. Soil improvement and manuring in the flower garden were dealt with in the October and November 1956 issues of the “Journal”. Seedlings should never be planted out in a dry soil* If necessary, a good watering should be given the day before and the topsoil worked up lightly before planting. The operation of planting will be made easier and the check to the root system of the plants minimised. Handling of plants should be done carefully. They should have been well watered some hours before and be lifted with as much soil as possible adhering to their roots. Depth of planting can usually be slightly deeper than in the seedling box or bed, except for subjects which have their leaves in a rosette, such as Iceland poppies, which should never have the crown covered. Spacing will vary according to the type of plant, but nothing is to be gained by planting too closely; otherwise the plants may develop weakly

and become drawn, which can easily result in damage from wind and rain. When spaced sufficiently the plants can grow to full stature and usually produce a better crop of flowers. After planting, a light watering should be given to settle the soil round the roots of the plants. Maintenance During the first 2 weeks after planting, special attention should be given. If the ground has been well moistened beforehand, watering may not be necessary, but if hot and dry winds prevail, light sprinklings over and round the plants will be very beneficial. The soil should be kept loose round the plants, either by hoeing or light forking. This will prevent a crust forming and allow aeration of the soil, and at the same time it will kill any weeds which may have germinated. When the plants have grown so thick that cultivation becomes difficult it need only be done periodically, preferably after watering. Large weeds should be removed. Watering should be carried out when necessary and should be thorough. Once the plants are established light watering should be discontinued, as it tends to keep the roots near the surface. Because annuals quickly deteriorate if seed is allowed to form and because dead flowers are unsightly they should be removed frequently. Edges of flower beds should always be neat and tidy. If placed along a lawn, they should be on an even line and kept trimmed. ■ Troubles Most bedding plants are not very subject to diseases, but some, are known to . be a host for certain troubles. Antirrhinums, for example, are now difficult to grow because they are liable to infection with rust fungus, for which there is no practical control to date. Rust-resistant varieties from overseas have not proved satisfactory in New Zealand, as they have not proved resistant to the strains of rust present in this country. Asters become troubled with wilt and wilt-resistant varieties only should be used. Plants which have been checked in growth are more likely to become affected with wilt. Pests such as aphids, thrips, and caterpillars will attack many bedding plants, and the normal control methods should be carried out. An article dealing specifically with pests and diseases in the flower garden will shortly appear in the “Journal”. Troubles can also be encountered if bedding plants are grown out of season, as they may then not develop satisfactorily. Plants are sometimes

offered for sale at a time unsuitable for planting, and only by knowledge of the district can this be judged. Horticultural societies and garden clubs do much to assist their members and reserves staff are always helpful with such advice. The Chart The chart on pages 100 and 101 is designed to assist home gardeners in selecting and growing bedding plants. Because climate varies so much (even within each island general recommendations only can be made), development of the plants is governed by the conditions prevailing in any particular garden during any particular season. Even soil type, fertiliser supply, and moisture can influence time and length of flowering considerably.

Garden Work for August

The early blooms of crocus, Iris reticulata, lachenalia, violet, snowdrop, and the other species which are now appearing Warn that spring is approaching. Any work which should

have been done in winter must be completed this month. Garden Reconstruction Ideas for reconstruction will have been considered during the previous growing season and now, when many plants are still dormant, these new ideas and features can be put into practice. In all garden planning the aim should be to make use of any existing features, but at the same time creating deeper interest by one or two wellplaced focal points. These may be developed out of existing features.

Plain flower borders need to be relieved by one or two special features such as a garden seat, a specimen tree or shrub, a garden pool, a rocky outcrop suitably planted, a terraced garden, an archway, or outdoor living area. Rock Work In rock work the use of a limited number of large stones is preferable to many small ones. ci-nnoc knur.

Small stones, nowever, may be useful for filling in. For the most natural effect all the rocks should be tilted back at the same angle and the grain of the rocks should be parallel throughout. All rocks should be securely set, preferably twothirds of their depth in the soil, and the soil well rammed in. Grouping of the plants and rocks is more effective and appears more natural. The harmony of the garden is broken when a “spotting” effect is created. For rock walls and garden paths more care should be taken in the selection of stones. This extra time in selection and construction .will be worth while. If desired, concrete may

be used to secure strategic stones or paving stones. At this time of the year it will be obvious whether stepping stones could be used to advantage in any part of the garden. Service areas can often be greatly improved by placing flat slabs of rock or concrete slightly below the level of the grass so that the lawnmower will run smoothly over them.

Mixed Herbaceous Border

/.If the border was dressed with bulky manure in autumn, this may now be forked into the topsoil. The plants may have become too large and to divide them they should be lifted and the area treated with compost or rotted farmyard manure. A dressing of complete fertiliser containing 3 parts of blood and bone, 2 parts of superphosphate, and 1 part of sulphate of potash (all parts by weight) could be applied to the soil surface at 2oz. per square yard. Vigorous and healthy sections from the outside of the old clumps should be used for replanting. Pruning of Shrubs There are three groups of flowering shrubs . which may be pruned now. Immediate attention should be given to those shrubs which flower on wood produced in the current season and make strong annual growth. These should be cut back very hard to within a few inches of the older wood. Young plants need have only the tips of the shoots removed. This group includes Ceratostigma willmotianum, Erithrina crista-galli, and Spiraea japonica. The second group which may be pruned now comprises such plants as hydrangeas, fuchsias, and diervilla, which flower on new growths developing on wood produced in the previous season. These also make strong annual growth. Weak shoots should be removed and branches which flowered last season should be cut back to three or four buds. Strong 1-year-old wood can be tipped and left to produce this year’s flowering wood. Try to maintain a shapely bush through pruning. In the third group of shrubs for late winter pruning are those evergreen subjects which flower during winter and which can be lightly pruned back after flowering to help retain their shape. Examples of these are erica, thryptomene, and boronia. Planting of Shrubs Any hardy deciduous shrubs may be planted now if soil conditions are satisfactory. If from seasonal observations it has been decided to transplant some specimens, August is a good month. Care should be taken to retain as much soil as possible round the roots of the plant and a sack or canvas sheet will be found helpful. The top of the plant should be pruned so that the reduced roots will have a correspondingly smaller leaf area to support. Lawns In districts where summer rain is assured the sowing of lawns in spring is satisfactory, provided the area has been well cultivated in the previous autumn. The soil will be well consolidated after winter rains and any

low spots should be filled in and made firm. If the soil has been properly „ prepared it will need only to be lightly hoed, and the seed broadcast and raked in. The first application of fertiliser consisting of loz. per square yard of a mixture of 3 parts by weight of sulphate of ammonia and 1 part by weight of superphosphate should be broadcast just before seed sowing and raked in with the seed. On page 207 of the ' February 1957 issue of the “Journal” care of lawns is dealt with in detail. Seasonal Recommendations Hasten to complete the planting of trees, shrubs, hedge plants, and roses before growth begins . again. Rose pruning, as discussed in last month’s notes, should be completed by now in northern districts, but August is generally the best time to carry out this task in cooler areas. A few gladiolus can be planted toward the end of August in warm, well-drained soils. Gladiolus which were planted and cloched in May can now be uncloched to allow the stems to develop for flowering in October. A watch should be kept on tulips for any signs of aphids. These insects, which are carriers of the virus disease commonly known as “tulip break” because of the striping or breaking of the flower colour, will increase as the weather becomes warmer. Any diseased plants should be destroyed as soon as recognised and a special check be made on new bulbs. Though in most' districts the main seed sowing should be left until next month, a start can be made in selected areas. Where the ground was prepared in autumn, sweet peas can now be sown. A protective seed dust such as thiram should be used. Indoor plants of fuchsia, coleus, geraniums,. and shrubby begonias can be pruned back. Repot if necessary. Tuberous begonias can be started into growth as soon as their pink buds appear. They make attractive plants in window boxes where they are able to get a little extra warmth. Hydrangeas grown as pot plants should be given a liquid feed with . one of the soluble fertilisers available on the market. Cacti and succulents should not be encouraged into growth yet, but will appreciate a light syringe with lukewarm water when the days are warm and sunny. Seeds of these plants can be sown toward the end of August in well-drained and preferably shallow containers, which should be placed behind glass in a sunny position. A close watch should be kept for the ravages of slugs, snails, woodlice, and other common pests and DDT or lindane dust or baits should be used liberally to destroy them.

it a or indicates period.

Name Colour Height in. Hardiness Sowing Sowing method Planting Distance apart in. Situation Soils Flowering period North South North | North South border seed-bed ss dy hardy *O «♦- C U. « ° CD 4-» X X_ o o o ® ® « ® S © © +* © E © rt © >i > = j= s der X Jborder in set Q - =3 < co co co < S Q sox or seed-bed er glass S ■§ « 2. — CT « S cS ® ““ >1 > => J5 <U X X FQ £ X < C/> C/5 <Z) < S Q Ageratum ... . blue 3-18 •ft Aug. Sep. ☆ ft Oct. ‘ Nov. -6-10 ☆ ☆ Nov. -Apr. Dec.-Apr. Alyssum mauve, 4 ☆ all year Sep. ☆ ft Oct.-Nov. 8 ft. ft ft all year Nov.-Mar. Amaranthus various 12-30 ☆ Sep. Oct. ft Oct. Nov. 10-15 ft ft ft Jan. ■ -Mar. Feb. -Apr. Antirrhinum . various 12-36 ☆ /'June Aug. ft Apr. Oct. 8-15 ft .☆ . ft /Nov. Dec.-Mar. Arctotis* various 9 ☆ Sep. Oct. .☆ Oct. Nov. 12 ft ft . ft Nov.-May Dec.-Apr. Aster red, 18 ☆ Oct. Oct. ft Nov. Nov. 12 ☆ ft ☆ Jan. Jan.-Mar. Balsam pink 18 ft Aug. Sep. ft Oct. Nov. 10 ft ft Dec. Jan.-Mar. fibrous-rooted* . Begonia, pink, 12 ☆ July Aug. ☆ ☆ Oct. Nov. 8 ft ft ☆ Nov. -May Dec.-May multiflora* . red, yellow 8 ■ft ft . Nov. Dec. 9 •ft ft ☆ Dec.-May -Apr. tuberous* various 15 'ft ☆ Nov. Dec. 12 ft ☆ -May Jan. -Apr. Bells balm) green 18 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ 10 ft ft ft -Feb. Feb. -Apr. Calendula gold 18 ☆ Feb. Sep. ft ☆ Mar. Nov. 12 ft ft ☆ June- Sep. Jan. Candytuft various 12 ft /Aug. Sep. ☆ 6 ft ft ft June/Oct; Nov.-Dec. bells . Canterbury pink, 30 ☆ Feb. Jan. ☆ Apr. Mar. 12 ft ☆ ft Oct. Nov. Carnation, various 18 ☆ /Aug. /Sep. ft Mar./Oct. /Nov. 12 ft ft ft ft /Dec. Oct./ Jan. Celosia yellow 18-30 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ ft Oct. Nov. 10-15 ft ft ft Dec.-Feb. Jan.-Mar. Celsia* yellow 18 ☆ Aug. Sep. ft ft Oct. Nov.' 7 ☆ ft Dec.-Apr. Jan. -Apr. Cineraria . various 15-30 Jan./Aug. Sep. ☆ ft Mar./Sep. Nov. 12-18 ft ft May/Oct. Jan.-Feb. ☆ Jan./Aug. Sep. ☆ ☆ Mar./Sep. Nov. 12-18 ☆ ☆ ☆ May/Oct. Jan.-Feb. Chrysanthemum, various 18-30 ☆ Aug. Sep. ft ft Sep. Nov. 12 ft ft ft Dec. Jan.-Mar. Clarkia . various 24 ☆ Mar. Oct. ☆ 10 ☆ Oct.-Nov. Jan.-Mar. ☆ Oct.-Nov. Jan.-Mar. flower) pink 36 ft , Aug. Oct. ft ft Sep. Nov. 18 ft ft ft Dec.-Apr. Jan. -Apr. Coreopsis . . yellow, 12-36 ☆ Mar. Oct. ☆ 6-10 ft ft Sep.-Oct. Dec. Cornflower various 12-36 ☆ Mar. -Apr. Mar./Sep. ☆ 6-8 ft ☆ Aug.-Oct. Oct./Dec. Cosmos various 24-36 ☆ Oct. Oct. ft Nov. Nov. 10-12 ft ☆ -Apr. Jan. -Apr. Dahlia, various 12-18 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ ☆ Oct. Nov. 12 ☆■☆ft ft -Apr. -Apr. (Bellis white, 9 ☆ Jan. Dec. ☆ ft Apr. Mar. 6 ft ft -Nov. Oct.-Dec. butterfly)* blue 15 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ Oct. Nov. 10 ft ft ft Dec.-Apr. . Jan. -Apr bedding various 12-24 ft •ft /Aug. Jan./ ☆ /Oct. /Nov. 10-12 ft ft Sep./Dec. Oct./Jan. D imorphotheea various 12 •ft Aug. Oct. ☆ 6 ☆ ft Oct.-Nov. Eschscholtzia yellow, 6-18 ☆ Aug. Oct. ☆ 6 ☆ ☆ ☆ Oct.-Nov. Dec.-Jan ft ft Oct.-Nov. Dec.-Jan. Forget-me-not . . pink, 6-15 ☆ Mar. Jan. ☆ ☆ Apr. 6 ☆ ft 'ft ft Aug.-Sep. Sep.-Oct. Gaillardia* . red, yellow, 15-30 ft . Aug. Oct. ft Sep. Nov. 12 ft ft ft -May Dec.-Apr. Geranium* red, 24 ☆ Sep. Nov. 15 ft ft Oct.-May Dec. -May Gilia . blue 12-24 ☆ Aug. Oct. ☆ 8 ft ft ft Oct. Nov.-Jan. Godetia various 6-30 ☆ /Aug. Apr. Sep. ☆ Oct. 6-12 ft. ft /Oct. Dec.-Feb. Gypsophila, . . pink, 18 ☆ Aug. Oct. ☆ 12 ft ft Dec.-Jan. -Feb. Iceland poppy . various 15 ft Jan. Dec. ☆ Mar. Feb. 10 ft ☆ Apr.-Nov. May-Dec. cypress) foliage 24 ☆ Aug. Oct. ☆ Sep. Nov. 15-24 ft ft Larkspur . white 18-30 ☆ Mar. Sep. ft Apr. Nov. 10 ft ft -Oct. J Linaria . various 6-30 ■ft Aug. Sep. ☆ 3-8 ft ft Oct.-Nov. -Jan. (Flax) . various 9-24 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ 6 ft ft ft -Nov. Dec.-Jan Lobelia white 4-6 ■ft /Aug. Apr. Sep. ☆ /Oct. Nov. 6-8 ft ft ☆ Sep./Apr. -Apr in white 18 ☆ Apr. / ☆ 8 ft ☆ /Jan. Sep. Oct./Feb Marigold, yellow, 24-36 ☆ -Dec. Sep. Oct. ☆ Oct. Nov. 15-18 ft ft ft Jan. -May Feb.-Mav Marigold, yellow, orange 6-18 ft Aug.-Jan. Oct. ft Sep.-Feb. Nov. 6-12 ft ft ft Oct.-May Dec. -Apr flowering bronze 18-24 ft -Feb. ft ☆ Mar.-Apr. 15 ☆ ft ft June-Sep. Mesembryanthemum daisy) ■ . . (Livingstone various 4 ☆ Apr. ☆ June Oct. 6 ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Sep.-Oct. Dec.-Jan. Sep. ☆ June Oct. 6 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Sep.-Oct. Dec.-Jan. Mignonette orange 9-15 ☆ /Aug. Jan. /Sep. 6-10 ☆ ft ☆ ft ft Apr./Oct. Apr./Nov ☆ 6-10 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Apr./Oct. Apr./Nov (Tropaeolum) Nasturtium red yellow, 12 ☆ Aug. Sep. 12 ☆ ☆ ☆ Oct.-Jan. Dec./Mar. ft , , 12 ☆ ft ft ft ■ ft Oct.- Jan. Dec./Mar. Nemesia . various 6-12 ☆ Mar. . Sep. .☆ May Nov. 6-10 ft ft ☆ Aug.-Oct. Dec.-Feb. Oenothera* ... yellow 12-24 ft , / Aug. Sep. ☆ 9 ft ft ft ft ft /Oct. Sep. Dec. Pansy* . . various 6 ☆ Jan. /Aug. ft Mar. /Oct. 8 ft ft ft May-Nov. May/Nov. Petunia . various 12 ☆ Aug. Sep. ft Oct. Nov. 10 ft ft ft Nov.-May Dec.-Apr. Phlox various 6-18 ☆ Aug. Sep. ft Oct. .Nov. 8-10 ft ft ft' -May Dec.-Apr.

Bedding Plants Brighten the Flower Garden

Name Colour Height in. Hardiness Sowing Sowing method Planting Distance apart in. Situation Soils period North South North South North Southborder seed-bed ss •o c u « CC >i © reet box o der g erage n ade aside © CT) GJ U </> — = c > =5 J= © > O X X H Q — 3 < CO CO CO < s a rdy If hardy id er •ect in box or s der glass erage n ade aside CD CT U (/) ■ 1 ■ py tC > =J JS O > o XXIa - x < tn tn tn < Z Q Polyanthus* ■ . various 10 ☆ Nov. Oct. ☆ - ' Apr. Mar. 10 ☆ ☆ ☆ Aug.-Oct. Sep.-Nov. Portulaca . . various 6 ☆ Sep. Oct.-Nov. ☆ Oct.-Nov. Nov.-Dec. 6 ☆ ☆. Dec. Dec.-Mar. Primula pink, 12 ☆ Jan. ☆ Mar.-April 9 ☆ ☆ Aug.-Oct. Salpiglossis various 24 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ ☆ Oct. Nov. 10 . Dec.Mar. Jan.-Mar. ☆ ☆ Dec.Mar. Jan.-Mar. Salvia ■ ... red 12-30 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ Oct. Nov. 10-15 ☆ ☆ . - Dec.-May Jan.-May ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Dec. -May Jan. -May annual 1 Scabious, various 36 ☆ Mar. Aug. ☆ May Oct. 12 .☆ ☆ Aug.-Nov. Dec.-Feb. Schizanthus various 12-24 ☆ July Sep. ☆ Sep. Nov. 10-15 ☆ ☆ ☆ Aug.-Nov. Dec. Silene . . pink, 6-12 ☆ Mar. Aug. ☆ May Oct. 6-8 ☆ ☆ -Oct. Aug. Nov.-Dec. Statice* various 30 ☆ June Sep. ☆ ☆ Aug. Nov. 12 ☆ ☆ ☆ -Feb. Dec.-Mar. Stock, various 12-24 ☆ /Aug. all year ☆ ☆ Feb. year 12 ☆ ☆ May/Dec. all year Stock, . . various 24 ☆ Mar. Feb. ☆ May Apr. , 15 ☆ .☆ Sep. Oct.-Nov. Sweet pea . various 72 ☆ Apr. -Oct. Aug. ☆ May/Sep. -Nov. 6-12 ☆ ☆ /Nov. -Mar. Dec. pea, . various 12 June Aug. ☆ ☆ ☆ "Aug. Oct. 8 ☆ ☆ ☆ Oct.-Jan. Dec.-Mar. ☆ June Aug. ☆ ☆ ☆ Aug. Oct. 8 ☆ ☆ ☆ Oct.-Jan. Dec.-Mar. Sweet . various 18 . ☆ Aug. Oct. ☆ 10 ☆ ☆ ☆ Oct.-Dec. -Feb. Sweet various 9-18 ☆ Feb. Jan. ☆ Apr. Mar. 8-12 ☆ ☆ ☆ Oct.-Nov. Nov.-Dec. Tithonia orange 36-60 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ Oct. Nov. 15 ☆ ☆ Jan. -Mar. Torenia blue 12 ☆ Sep. Oct. ☆ Nov. Dec. 8 ☆ ☆ Jan. Feb.-Mar. (Canary creeper) yellow 36 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ 12 ☆ ☆ ☆ Oct.-Jan. Dec. Ursinia orange 4-12 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ Oct. Nov. 6-8 ☆ Nov.-Dec. Dec.-Jan. ☆ ☆ Nov.-Dec. Dec.-Jan. Venidium* various 12-24 ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ 6-8 ☆ ☆ Jan. -Feb. Verbena* . blue, 12 Aug. Sep. ☆ ☆ Oct. Nov. 10 ☆. ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Nov. -Apr. Dec.-Apr. ☆ Aug. Sep. ☆ ☆ Oct. Nov. 10 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Nov. -Apr. Dec. -Apr. Viola* various 6 ☆ Jan. Jan. ☆ Mar. /Oct. 8 ☆ ☆ May-Nov. May/Nov. Viscaria various 9-15 ☆ Apr. Sep. ☆ 6-8 ☆ ☆ -Oct. -Feb. Jan. Wallflower* . various 12-18 ☆ Nov. ☆ Apr. 12-15 ☆ ☆ Sep.-Nov. Zinnia . . various 9-30 ☆ Sep. Oct. ☆ Nov. Dec. 8-12 ☆ ☆ -Mar. Jan. -Apr.

Bedding Plants Brighten the Flower Garden-Continued