Flowers from Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 94, Issue 3, 15 March 1957, Page 307

Flowers from Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

FLOWERS from bulbs, corms, and tubers generally bring thoughts of spring, as many of these types of plants then come into bloom. But others flower later in the season; in fact, different types flower at all times of the year. In the following article K. H. Marcussen, Horticulturist, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch, discusses their place in the flower garden and outlines their general requirements. Notes on flower garden work in April are by Elspeth Gray, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Auckland.

MOST plants grown from bulbs, •‘-’-I corms, and tubers are very showy, but because they have a fairly short flowering season many of them are best suited for growing among other plants. The Mixed Border The mixed border offers such conditions. There the bulbs can be planted among perennials and annuals and full advantage taken of the flowering period of each plant. Planning of the border should ensure that the display will continue as long as possible. Bulbs should be placed so that they will be able to grow without undue competition until flowering time, but once the . flowers are spent the border will look more

attractive if the dying foliage is covered, or partly covered, by other plants. Some plants, such as lilies, prefer a cool root run, though they will tolerate full sun on the foliage and flowers. Often a mulch is placed over such bulbs, but cover planting with sprawling subjects looks better and serves the same purpose, provided they are not allowed to draw soil moisture to the detriment of the bulbous plants. Bedding Displays Tulips, hyacinths, and gladiolus are sometimes used for bedding display, but because they cannot be lifted when flowering is finished, they are not fully satisfactory for this purpose. Anemone and ranunculus are more suitable; they can be disposed of at

any time if the old tubers are not being kept for the following year. When bulbs, corms, and tubers, are used for formal bedding a good, even line should be used to assure a satisfactory display. Best results are usually obtained with one variety only; if several are used in one bed, variation in flowering time may occur, and the bed should be planned so that any late flowering group will not upset the display. Rock Garden For the smallest bulbs the rock garden is the ideal position, because there they can be left without disturbance and consequent risk of being lost. Their size is also more in proportion to neighbouring plants than it would be in a mixed border. In the rock garden good drainage, which is of major importance for these small gems, is usually assured. Most of them can be left for a number of years and lifted only when they become too crowded. Naturalising Bulbs In larger gardens bulbs can be planted in existing lawns. Narcissus

is the type most frequently seen growing in this manner, but many others can be used. A bluebell dell is, for ■example, being established in a Christchurch park. When bulbs are naturalised in a lawn the grass should not be cut until flowering is finished, and even then mowing should be delayed as long as possible to enable the bulbs to build up a food supply for next season’s flowering before the foliage is removed. The bulbs are ' left in the ground permanently and while the combination of all factors in relation to their growth does not produce show blooms, a delightful display can be achieved. Cut Flowers Cutting of flowers for indoor decoration is less of a problem in a mixed border than in a formal bed, where the balance can be upset if flowers are removed. If many cut flowers are required, it is preferable to grow them in a reserve area. A section of the vegetable garden is the favourite position for many growers of show blooms. Apart from growing the plants in a more secluded situation the vegetable garden frequently offers better scope for crop rotation than the flower garden; a point which should always be considered. The manner in which the various subjects can be used is detailed on the chart on page 310. Soil Bulbs, corms, and tuberous-rooted plants will grow in ordinary garden soil, provided drainage is satisfactory. Only on very heavy or sandy soils should much soil improvement be necessary (see article in “The Journal”, October 1956).

Good drainage is essential for healthy and satisfactory development. Roots will not grow properly in wet ground and losses may occur through, rots. The soil should, always be well cultivated and contain a good supply of humus, but bulbs should never be planted near decaying organic matter, and rich manure should be avoided. If possible, a position should be selected which was heavily manured for a previous crop. Few bulbs like acid soil conditions and regular liming should be done. The safest fertiliser. to use on this type of plant is bonedust, which contains phosphate . and a small percentage of nitrogen. These ingredients become available slowly, and if a dressing of up to 4oz. per sq. yd. is applied at planting time, the fertiliser will prove beneficial when the plants have become well rooted. Position and Location Some bulbs, corms, and tuberousrooted plants do best when growing in full sun and for most good light is essential until flowering time or they will tend to become drawn. Diffused light, as found under partly overhanging trees, is generally satisfactory, but the taller subjects may grow toward the full light. Early spring flowering bulbs look very attractive growing under deciduous trees, where conditions are ideal, as they flower before the trees come into full foliage. The best situations always allow free circulation of air among the plants, but shelter should be provided to break strong winds. Some bulbs, especially tulips, narcissus, and hyacinths, are not always satisfactory when growing in warm soils. They are sometimes termed cold climate bulbs and usually do best when growing in colder parts of the country. They should be

planted in early autumn and have a long period for root development before the tops begin growing. When these bulbs are planted in a warm and possibly dry soil roots, develop slowly and top growth may take place before much nourishment can be taken in by the new roots. This is detrimental to the bulbs and if drying of the foliage is accelerated by the same . climatic. factors, the bulbs will not develop properly for the next season, and a gradual deterioration will take place from year to year. There are other bulbs which demand warm and dry soil conditions. Among them are nerines, amaryllis, and lachenalias. A baking in the sun appears to benefit this type, as without it they may become. erratic in their flowering. These are called warm climate bulbs. : The most suitable position and location for the various subjects can be seen on the chart. Lifting and Planting The most suitable times for lifting and planting differ; some should be lifted as soon as the top growth has dried off and replanted as soon as possible. Among these are the lilies, the roots of which never dry off or become dormant. Many, of the cold climate bulbs are best lifted every year when the foliage has died down completely, stored for summer, and planted again in autumn. Gladiolus, however, is lifted before the foliage dries right off and is stored for winter. Planting depth and distances vary, but planting should never be too deep. Most bulbs and corms which naturally grow deep in the soil have contractile roots which will pull them down, and if they are left undisturbed for a number of years, they will find' their

own level. It is therefore desirable to note the depth at lifting time and plant a little less deeply, especially the smaller bulbs. L For informal planting it is best to group the various plants in clumps or drifts. They will then be more conspicuous and attractive than if they are scattered individually. Sufficient spacing should be allowed so that each can develop both their roots and foliage properly. A few subjects, mainly tulips and gladiolus, are best lifted every year, but most can be left for a number of years. When they show deterioration

of the flowers they should be lifted and spaced, but until then many will flower much better if left, even if they appear to be crowded. This is especially so with most warm climate bulbs. Storage Storage of bulbs, corms, and tubers is always a problem for the home gardener, as the quantities to be stored are generally so small that the construction of special facilities is not warranted. It is therefore best to outline the principles of storage so

that the most suitable position can be chosen. Drying and cleaning, including the destruction of any material showing disease, should be completed before storage. The storage space should be dry and have free ventilation without being' draughty. An even temperature should be maintained during storage, without excessive heat in summer or frost in winter. To prevent infestation by insect pests during storage a dusting with

lindane (2 per cent.) can be carried out and a dusting with thiram (5 per cent.) will assist in preventing spread of fungous diseases.

Disposal of Bulbs

Unhealthy bulbs should not be placed on the compost heap. They should be burnt, even if this may cause some inconvenience. Various fungous and bacterial diseases can otherwise be perpetuated, and rots, which to the amateur appear to be caused by a disease, may be secondary to infestation by insects, for example, bulb fly. The grubs may still be present and if the bulbs are not destroyed, their development will continue.

Some bulbs multiply very rapidly and in a small garden they may become too numerous. If they cannot be disposed of for garden purposes, they should be destroyed, and not dumped indiscriminately. They may otherwise establish themselves and become undesirable weeds, as have several of the bog iris, which are found to block up streams in some parts of the country, and cape tulip (Homeria collina), which is very poisonous both to man and animals. Iris Some irises have bulbs, some rhizomes, and others fleshy, fibrous roots. Their requirements differ greatly and details not mentioned in the chart are as follows: — I. tingitana is the earliest of its type. The blue flowers come in late winter or early spring. Unfortunately it is a shy bloomer and not reliable, even when it grows in the best position. For good flowering the bulbs require extreme temperatures in both winter and summer. They should therefore not be planted deeply and they should be planted only where the soil becomes hot and dry in summer.

Dutch irises, the most popular in the bulbous group, are available in white, yellow, and blue shades. They are much more reliable than I. tingitana and generally are preferable, especially in districts with high summer rainfall.

Spanish irises are somewhat smaller than Dutch irises and flower a little later in spring. They have bulbs and are available in blue, white, yellow, and bronze shades.

English irises are the last of the bulbous irises to come into flower, in December or January according to locality. They are found in various colours, but blue shades are most commonly available. They are not as easy to handle as Dutch iris and should be replanted as soon as possible after lifting in late summer.

Bearded irises are the rhizomatous members of the genus. They flower from late winter until early summer. There is now a great variety of colours available and they are very picturesque. When required, transplant-

ing should be done soon' after flowering to assure flower formation the following year.

Japanese irises have fleshy, fibrous roots. They dislike lime and dry soil conditions. They are difficult to transplant, and there are often losses after transplanting. When they do well they make a grand display. Many colours are available.

I. siberica is also a bog iris, but much easier to deal with than Japanese iris. It is available in blue and purple shades and in white.

I. innominata is a small fibrousrooted iris which has become very popular in recent years. It grows 15in. to 18in. high and is available in many colours. Old plants are difficult to split up, but if division is contemplated, it is most likely to meet with success when done in autumn. Better results are generally obtained if new plants are raised from seed, which germinates readily.

I. stylosa is a very accommodating small iris; perhaps it is so popular because it flowers in winter. It will grow in most soils and under varied conditions. It appears to flower best when given least attention, but drainage should be perfect. Lilies There are many different lilies, and growing conditions vary in their natural habitats. It is therefore possible to give only an outline of the conditions which suit most of them. Lilies require adequate moisture during the growing season, but drainage must be perfect. The soil should be rich in organic material; if this is lacking, it should be supplied before planting by the addition of well-rotted compost or leafmould. Rich manure should be used very sparingly and never close to the bulbs.

Because the rooting habits of lilies differ, the depth of planting must be adjusted accordingly. Stem-rooting types should not be planted deeper than sin. or 6in. and those rooting from the base only should be planted 3in. to 4in. deep. An exception is L. candidum, which should be planted just below the surface.

Transplanting should be done only when definitely required, but when necessary it should be carried out as soon as the tops have dried off after flowering. The bulbs and roots are never dormant and care should be taken that they do not dry out. Imported bulbs of L. auratum often flower the first year, but fail to make further growth, because the roots had dried off before they arrived and new ones did not develop.

Gladiolus

Gladioli are among the most popular plants for summer display and are available in many colours, types, and sizes. They can be grown without much trouble and are very suitable for filling gaps in a border.

Planting can be carried out as soon as the soil warms up in spring, or can be delayed until later in the season. Flowering will take place 80 to 110 days after planting, according to the variety and temperatures during growth.

The corms should be lifted every year; the best time is some 6 weeks after flowering, or even sooner when flowering has taken place late in the season.

Anemones

There are a number of different species of anemones available, but the ones commonly used in the flower garden are St. Brigid’s, which are available in mixed colours and in named varieties.

They do not like acid soil conditions .and lime should generally be applied before planting.

For winter flowering, anemones should be planted in midsummer, so that the plants are fully developed before cold weather sets in.

It is not always wise to plant “top” size tubers. If large tubers are planted early in the season (December), they may develop too much foliage to the detriment of the flowers and the plants as a whole. When smaller tubers are used for early planting their flowering is generally more profuse and they are not so subject to disease.

For spring flowering the tubers should be planted late in autumn and “benefit will then be derived from the use of larger grade tubers.

When anemones are planted early they should not be planted too close, a mistake often made. Plants 12in. to 15in. across are not uncommon, and if the soil is in good heart, they should be given at least that spacing. For late planting they can be planted closer.

Narcissus

The main points in growing narcissus have been dealt with. It is, however, confusing for home gardeners to study trade catalogues and show schedules without some knowledge of the classification which distinguishes the different types and in some cases their colouring. The following is the classification used: —• Division 1 (trumpet narcissi): One flower to a stem, trumpet or corona as long as or longer than perianth segments. There are 4 subdivisions as follows: —• (a) Perianth coloured; corona coloured, not paler than the perianth.

(b) Perianth white; corona coloured. (c) Perianth white; corona whiter, not paler than perianth. (d) Any colour combination not falling into (a), (b), or (c). Division 2 (large-cupped narcissi): One flower to a stem; cup or corona more than one-third, but less than equal to, the length of the perianth segments. Four subdivisions corresponding with (a), (b), (c), and (d) in division 1. Division 3 (small-cupped narcissi): One flower to a stem; cup or corona not more than one-third of the length of the perianth segments. Four subdivisions corresponding with (a), (b), (c), and (d) in divisions 1 and 2. Division 4 (double narcissi) : Flowers double. Division 5 (triandrus narcissi): Characteristics of N. triandrus clearly evident. (a) Cup or corona not less than twothirds the length of the perianth segments. (b) Cup or corona less than twothirds the length of the perianth segments. Division 6 (cyclamineus narcissi) : Characteristics of N. cyclamineus clearly evident. Two subdivisions corresponding with those of division 5. Division 7 (jonquilla narcissi): Characteristics of N. jonquilla group clearly evident. Two subdivisions corresponding with those of divisions 5 and 6. Division 8 (tazetta narcissi) : Characteristics of any of the N. tazetta group clearly evident. Division 9 (poeticus narcissi): Characteristics of the N. poeticus group without admixture of any other. Division 10 (species and wild forms and hybrids): All species and wild or reputed wild forms and hybrids. Division 11 (miscellaneous narcissi) All narcissi not falling into any of the foregoing, divisions.

Dahlias

Though dahlias are tuberous rooted, their habit is more like herbaceous perennials with which they were grouped in an article in. the January 1957 issue of “The Journal”.

Garden Work in April

Preparation for the planting of trees and . shrubs should be done in April and if the plants have not already been ordered from a nurseryman the order should

be placed as soon

as possible. Most of the work in the flower garden this month is in preparation for the spring bedding plants. If hardy annuals and biennials are planted now while the soil is still warm, they will make growth before winter and will flower early in spring. If planting out is left later than April, only a poor or later spring display will result, as the plants will not have had a chance to make any growth before the cold weather.

Gladiolus corms that are being lifted for storing may at this time of the year be placed in the sun to dry off. They should never be left out overnight, but should be brought inside and put in a dry and airy shed. Before the corms are stored they should be dusted with. DDT or lindane to control thrips or other insect pests that , may be .. present.

Light, surface cultivation will control weed seedli?.gs, plants will make better growth, and rain will penetrate the soil instead of caking the surface and running off.

Dahlias

In the warmer districts dahlias may be treated as ordinary perennials and the stems cut back to 4in. to 6in. above the soil, except where the clumps have become very thick and it is desirable to lift and divide them.

In areas where more severe frosts are experienced the tubers should be lifted when the stems have died back, dried off in any airy shed, and then stored in a cool but frost-free position.

Labels should be attached to the stems and should give the approximate height and colour (for example, dwarf, red) where the name of the variety is not known. This saves confusion and planting difficulties next season, as if the tubers are not labelled, colours and heights cannot be correctly arranged. Dusting the tubers with DDT before storing them for winter should keep them free from slaters and similar pests.

Bedding Plants

Annuals such as clarkia, cornflower, nigella, calendula, godetia, and larkspur which will survive the winter in warmer areas can be sown in open spaces in the border for flowering early in the season. The seed can be sown either in drills in a sunny position or broadcast thinly in drifts where it is to flower.

The first method simplifies weeding, but the seedlings will not do so well if they have to be transplanted. When the second method is followed the seedlings should be thinned out as they grow until finally they are from Bin. to 9in. apart. Plants sown in drills may be transplanted toward the end of August, provided conditions are suitable, to positions where they are to flower.

Perennials

Herbaceous perennials that are dying down and looking untidy should be kept trimmed by cutting back the flower stalks as they turn yellow. Provided that the stems are not cut back until they die, the food from the stems is returned to the crown of the plant to be stored for the following season. Also, as . dying perennials are cut back, late flowering ones are shown to best advantage with no untidy foliage or growth round them.

Stalks of 4in. to 6in. long can be left to serve as markers during winter when cultivation is carried out, and can be cut right back when the new growth begins in spring. Clumps of perennials that have not been lifted or divided for a few years and that have become overcrowded may be divided toward the end of April or as soon as they have died down completely.

Better results are obtained the following season if the younger pieces from the outsides of the clump are replanted. The centre, though larger and apparently more vigorous than the outside pieces, is the oldest part, and the resulting growth and flowers from the centre will be comparatively poor.

Most perennials do best when they are divided every 3 or 4 years, but exceptions such as peony, gypsophila, and geum may be left if they are looking healthy and not showing any decline. Peonies can be left for up to 10 years in the same position, but a few of the more vigorous perennials may need dividing every second year if they are growing in warm, light soils.

Cuttings

Hard-wood cuttings may still be taken as was described in last month’s notes. A sprinkling of sand along the bottom of the trench will help the cuttings to root and will also aid in the drainage of the soil. Privet, Lonicera nitida, roses, escallonia, the shrubby veronicas (Hebe), buddleia, and tamarisk are all suitable for propagating in this way. After the leaves are removed from the lower part of the cuttings they should be inserted in the soil to about half their length.

Lawns

New lawns can still be put down in northern districts in early April, but it is getting rather late in the season, and a spring-sown lawn may come away better than one sown too late in autumn.

Renovation can be carried out on old lawns this month, as the grasses are fully established and will not die out as new plants would during winter. Any flatweeds should be removed and the lawn mown closely and then raked to remove moss and weed runners. Topdressing with sifted soil will help to fill up depressions in the surface, but filling should be

gradual, light dressings of soil being used to allow the grass to grow through successive layers. If more than about Jin. is applied at a time, the grass is likely to die, because it cannot penetrate the depth of soil. Where the lawn has become very compacted, either through bad drainage or a great deal of traffic on it, aeration will encourage more growth and prevent patches .of turf dying out during summer. An ordinary garden fork used as described in the article on lawns in the February issue will do the job satisfactorily.

Organic Manure Organic material incorporated with the soil in the form of compost or wellrotted animal

manure improves the drainage, water-holding capacity, and texture of the soil. By the addition of humus a heavy clay soil can be made more friable and easier to work and a sandy type can be made to grow better plants by improving its fertility and water-holding capacity. At this time of year there is usually a fairly large amount of garden rubbish that can be used to make compost. Diseased plant material should be burnt, but almost everything else, including weeds, fallen leaves, and light hedge trimmings can be composted. It is not advisable to . dig very much fresh organic material into the soil late in autumn, especially if the soil is heavy or cold, because decomposition is very slow during the colder months. Weeds which have gone to seed should not be dug in at any time, because many of the seeds will germinate even after, they have been buried for many months. Sweet Peas Where winters are not too severe sweet peas can be sown now for flowering in late winter and early spring. To get the best results the ground should be dug to a depth of about 12in. and well-rotted animal manure incorporated in the lower level of the trench. Well-drained soil in a warm, sunny position sheltered from prevailing winds is ideal. The supports should be placed in position

before the seed is sown, and a dressing of loz. to 2oz. of lime to the square yard, worked into the soil before sowing, will be an advantage where sweet peas are to be grown. Hedge Plants The ground for planting specimen trees and shrubs is usually well prepared and fertilised, but hedge plants are too often put in soil which has had little or no preparation. To encourage the plants to come away well and to form a strong growing hedge they should be treated in the same way as specimen trees. Where a long hedge is to be put in a trench the length required should be dug about 2ft. wide and 18in. deep. Well-rotted organic manure should be incorporated into the lower level of the soil. A light dressing of blood and bone at about 2oz. to the square yard will also help the plants to make a good start. Though the more popular kinds of hedge plants are comparatively hardy in the latitudes to which they are suited, they will benefit very considerably in exposed situations if they can be given some protection from strong winds for a few months after they are planted. Low screens of sacking or brushwood attached to temporary wooden frames may not be very attractive, but they will protect the young plants until growth is stronger and the weather is warmer.

Botanical name Common name Planting time Depth Flowering period Height Lifting period Soil Situation Hardiness Uses I Depth Flowering period Height Lifting period Soil Situation | Hardiness Uses E t. more (D mate >» E "o ■S = a ’ P ■? " i- 1 « > o ra « | u TO ® | U i c E E « 11 3ft. and g E | « CD 05 4-* 4-< <x> en — u o « u C5 ® CD - n CD CO X o « u E CO D) X E (S •o — L. Z E 5 c u E 5 c o “ E 5 c « TO ~ W E v = 05 ■° 1 - = O *E 3 X "O o -M a 3 = ” a. a = = ~ a = = C Q. > ' 3 =x = = o W CO Q} > = — <U o <S o os rc — <U o co tn < > CD CO CO < > ZD — co CO CO < > < J s < co co O X X 1SUEZ A. g apart thus sp. . . ☆ ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Adstroemeria sp. . . Peruvian lily . . ☆ ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ . ☆ Alstroemeria sp. .. .. Peruvian lily . . ☆ 2 1 . ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ . ☆ ☆ ft ft Amaryllis belladonna . . Belladonna lily ☆ ■ 0 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Anemone . . Wind flower . . ■ ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft ft Babiana sp. Baboon flower ☆ 6 6 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ☆ ☆ ft ft Begonia tuberhybrida . . Tuberous begonia ☆ 1 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Oalochortus sp. . . Mariposa lily . . ☆ . 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ . ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Camassia sp. Bear grass . . ☆ 4 4 ☆ ☆ ☆ A ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Ganna sp. ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Chionodoxa sp. . . Glory of the snow A ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Olivia sp. .... ☆ 0 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Oolchicum sp. . . . . Autumn crocus ☆ 1 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft ft Oonvallaria majalis . . Lily of the valley . ☆ 1 1 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ' ☆ ft ft ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Crinwn sp. Veld lily ☆ 1 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Crocosma aurea . . . . Falling star . . . ☆ .☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ . ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Crocus sp. . . ☆ 2 A ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ . ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Cyclamen sp. . . ☆ 0 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ☆ ☆ ft ft Dahlia . . .... ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Eranthis sp. ' Winter aconite ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft ft Freesia . . . . ☆ ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Fritillaria sp. ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Galanthus sp. Snowdrop . . . ☆ ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ' ☆ ☆. ☆ ft ft ft ft ft Galtonia candicans . . Summer hyacinth ☆ 3 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ■ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Gladiolus ☆ 4 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Hemerocallis sp. . . Day lily ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Hippeastrum . . . . ☆ 0 ☆ ☆ • ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Hyacinthus Hyacinth . . ☆ 4 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft ft ft ft Hymenocallis sp. . . Basket flower . . ☆ 2 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Iris germanica ... Bearded iris ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Iris innominata . . ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ . ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Iris laevigata (kaempferi) Japanese iris . . ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Iris sib erica . . . . Siberian iris . . ☆ 1 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Iris tingitana . . . . A ☆ ' 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft Iris unguiculdris . . . Iris stylosa . . . ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Iris xiphioides . . • • English iris . . ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Iris xiphium . . Spanish iris . . ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Iris xiphium hybridum . . Dutch iris . . ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Ixia . . . ■ ■ ■ ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ . ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Lachenalia sp. Cape cowslip .. ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ -fa ft ft ft Leucbcoryne sp . . ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ .☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Leucojum sp. . . . . Snowflake . . ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Lilium sp. Lily ☆ 3-5 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Lycoris sp. . . . ; Spider lily ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆. ☆ ft ft ft Muse ar i sp. Grape hyacinth ☆ 2 A ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Narcissus ☆ ☆ 4 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft ft ft Nerine . . . . Guernsey or Spider lily . . ☆ 0 ☆ ☆ ☆ .. ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ■ ☆ • ft ft ft Ornithogalum sp. . . Star of Bethlehem ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ☆ ft ft ft Polianthes tuberosa Tuberose . . ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ☆ ft . ft Polygonatum sp. Solomon’s seal . . ☆ 1 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ☆ ft ft ft Ranunculus ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ☆ ☆ ft ft ft Scilla sp. . . . . . . Bluebell and others . . ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ☆ ft ft ft Sparaxis sp. . . Wandflower . . ☆ ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft 'ir Sprekelia formosissima . . Jacobean lily . . ☆ ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ☆ ☆ ☆ ■& ft ft Sternbergia lutea Yellow autumn crocus A "fr 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ☆ ft ft ft Tigridia sp. Tiger flower . . ☆ 3 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ☆ ☆ Tritonia sp. Montbretia . . ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ☆ ft ft ft Tulipa . . ' Tulip ☆ 4 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft ft Valotta purpurea . . Scarborough lily ☆ 0 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Veltheimia viridifolia . . Giant lachenalia ☆ 1 ☆ . ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft Watsonia .... ☆ 4 ☆ ☆ ☆ ■ ☆ ■ ☆ ft ft ☆ ft ft Zantedeschia sp. . . . . Arum lily or calla ☆ ☆ 2 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆. ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft ft ☆ ft ft ft

Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers for the Flower Garden